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It looks like it is touching the case. I could be wrong. I cannot see the 2nd wire, either. Just observations from the photo.
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It's not that critical, the gap. What about your coil gap?
I have beat myself up in the past, trying to get spark. Very frustrating and it never turned out to be the coil or condenser. I did have points one time that just would not work, due to finger oils and aging. Maybe try to clean the complete points assembly. What turns the engine off? Is there a grounding switch that may be making to ground?
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Can we see a picture of how you installed the points?
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That is exactly where it should be connected.
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Alberto, please show photos of the bearing housings and bearings that you need. Measurements would be good as well.
I can help you with the diaphragm.
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US Stihl at 32:1 works just fine.
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You can buy any foam filter material and cut it down to size. You will then need to stuff it through the mounting hole and I use a toothpick to even it out inside the housing.
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Disassemble, clean and re-lube. Do it over a tray to avoid losing small parts. The gaskets usually come off whole, pretty easily. If not, buy some gasket material and make your own. Don't be afraid, you need to dig in to these in order to get them running.
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I'm pretty sure that they call for Lubriplate and that's what I've always used. Might not be a bad idea to put a little oil in it to liquefy the mixture a bit. These cases are pretty leaky and would probably lose anything that is much lighter than Lubriplate.
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I have just about everything other than the reed valve, including seals, complete NOS carb with gaskets and points and condensers. For such a rare and cool item, your best bet may be to advertise for a complete running 20A, or wait until one shows up on eBay.
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Terry, that thing is looking really good, and thanks for the tutorial. The real question is: Is it running???
PS love the filter housing. You could make some money selling those things, everybody needs one!
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I have a few of the flywheel side seals left.
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I have done the same thing as David, using inline filters. The guys on the chainsaw site used to use a product called Yamabond for their
tanks.
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Unfortunately, that's what it sounds like to me...
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You are absolutely right, these things are about as finicky as it gets and it seems that every one has it's own personality. I have had used and abused units run like a top and NOS units run like dogs. Go figure...
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No, but I do tie my sweater around my neck when I am cutting firewood, along with smoking a pipe. (Sorry David, I have not heard from John in a while). Cool literature,
though.
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I wear a very similar outfit when I am doing yard work. Where do you find this stuff, David?
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Crank seals??? Please show a clear close up of the "vent".
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Lack of spark is 95% dirty points.
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FYI, I have ignition, carb and other parts for this engine.
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I did notice that. You should make some and sell them on here or eBay. Number one requested part, other than diaphragms.
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The old seals on these engines are definitely subject to causing lean running conditions. I've found that about 50% of them need new seals, and it does not matter if they are NOS or well used.
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I do not mind sending a variety of bearings for you to check fit. Once again, thank you David, for doing some of the footwork.
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