factory

Here are some pictures of the only TAS Motor I have in my collection so far, it's a type J-22 engine, I keep looking for one of the older TAS engines to go with it but haven't had any luck yet. It also came with what maybe the original toolkit. David

A bit later than planned . Here is my TAS Motor engine type J-22, I put a rule against it so you can see the size, I took a picture showing the crankcase screw as well. More pictures in the TAS thread; David

Looks very nice, does it have Paramount cast into the eccentric cover like the other two I've seen? Is it getting any harder to find tools you haven't got yet? David

Looks good to me, the originals probably weren't anything special, I've seen very old beer cans etc. made in a similar way to the O&R tanks, trouble is people collect them too. I've been saving the steel cans that coffee comes in these days, they don't have the corrugated look of a soup/bean can. David

The manual has a few errors, the picture shows it one way round and the assembly instruction states "the open end of the retainer always goes toward the bottom of the bearing race cup". This is how I refit them and yes they are found often fitted either way round. David

I haven't seen anything other then the snow blower & outboard attachments, if you find more than one of the same attachment I would be interested too, I have a powerhead but nothing to go with it. David

Well I can tell you that the FMC engine doesn't have a crankcase screw, I'll start a new thread for that engine. I've also had a look at the TAS motor I have here, it's a J-22 engine with the same power rating as your J-12, but it has some differences including the type of carb and it has a recoil starter. It does have a crankcase screw in the same place as your engine, it's just blanked off with a screw as well. Pictures to follow later. David

The FMC engine was actually supplied as a kit, I have one still in the original package and several of them in various states of disrepair. I'll have a close look to see if they have the crankcase screw, as it's a 2-stroke engine could it be for an optional pulse tube to use a different carb? David

Almost looks like my FMC engine (apart from the carb & exhaust being on the opposite sides). ] David

Just seen that too, not in the nicest condition & all the usual parts are missing plus the chain cover, but cheap enough at the moment. I've not been very impressed with that seller either, my Lancaster saw was bought from them a few years ago, they didn't make it very clear the fuel tank had rotted through. Plus I had to get some help from @Webhead with some parts to avoid them going by "Global Shipping Programme" to the great big skip in Kentucky. On the plus side I've bought a new tank from Webhead to go on that saw, which ended up in the same box. David

Never saw it either, then again if I regularly searched for everytype of tool that doesn't mention O&R in the listing I wouldn't have any spare time to do anything else. Found under completed; Meier Line ePay I probably wouldn't have bid that much on it anyway due to the condition & poor pictures. David

We seem to be going round in circles here, we need pictures to better help with the carb, governor & idle screw issues. David

I can't comment as I haven't used it, but a couple of others have on here and I haven't seen anyone complain that it fell out. The fact it peals off easily would help if you had a problem & had to redo the seal. Something to note about some of those products, at least one of them mentioned a short shelf life in the data-sheet, so worth checking before spending a lot on something you might not use much of. David

Actually it works the other way round, the vane gets pushed up by the airflow from the flywheel fan blades, the rotation of the vane shaft then acts to close the butterfly valve, this reduces the amount air/fuel mix getting into the engine until the RPM has reduced enough. If you could post some pictures of how it's currently set up, it would help confirm if it's fitted correctly, or the vane is bent the wrong way (had that before). I'll check out Du-Bro for filter parts to see if they have anything narrow enough for the inline filters. David

I thought it was something like that, thanks for adding that info. David

Looking good, if the first two numbers on the serial number decal are 95xxxx, then the engine was built in May 1969, by the way they only used that decal/sticker for the engine type & serial number for two years. Interesting I've not seen the disclaimer about ethanol gas before when looking for new parts, we recommended using non-oxy/ethanol free gas/fuel for the mix in these engines. David

I would use them on more engines if they were available in the UK, shipping & import fees make them very expensive. David

I've used the Sullivan No.187 in-line filter on a couple of my engines, where the original filter was missing or damaged (I had a round tank where someone had stuck a hole through the tank filter). Here is a different base tank filter inside an earlier tank, not a very good picture as the (very cheap) borescope camera didn't want to focus on it. David

Unfortunately my information is missing engine Type 329 but the short-block replacement list does include it (doesn't give use). I think it was a chainsaw engine, I can see some of the starter housing screws have nuts on the back, this is because most of the screws would have gone through the back-plate and straight into the chainsaw tank. The starter is the wrong type for a 13B, but fitting the 13A or Compact I, II or III type would also require a change of flywheel as the starter dogs are different. It's strange that it uses a very late coil, but the air filter is only a single stage type, possibly been added as some chainsaws use a completely different type. Of course none of this really matters if it was a new spare chainsaw engine that was setup for a shop display. For comparison this is an engine that was on a Mustang Model 13 chainsaw. And here is the same engine on this chainsaw. David

It's certainly an interesting display engine. The base tank (part no #A-32-26) with no mounting tabs was made for at least one tool, the Orline Yard-Arm, but that doesn't use a gearbox as it's direct drive, is it possible it's been added to display the engine? The blanked off PTO shaft is used when the shaft is fitted to the other side of the gearbox, i.e. towards the engine, the chainsaws & bicycle engine kits are set up like this. That style of muffler/exhaust is used on some of the chainsaws, such as the Model 13 Mustang. Has it got a engine model/type stamped into the cylinder baffle plate or on the end of the crankcase mounting flange (exhaust side)? David

Nice collection, the Derby Tiller was also made by Little Wonder (same as the hedge cutter next to it) I scanned the manuals a few years ago as Little Wonder didn't have them on their website. The NOS water pump looks to be a Kenco and the yellow engine with gearbox looks to be from a chainsaw with that style of muffler. David

Yes the brass adjustment screw is the needle valve for setting the carb fuel/air mix and it is normally adjusted with a full load. The two holes on the other side of the carb are for the idle screw (top one) and the optional throttle cable (bottom one). The idle screw is for setting the idle speed for engines fitted with a clutch (around 2200 to 2500 RPM. according to the service manual), this generator doesn't have a clutch. Maybe if you want to run smaller load you could set the carb up as normal with the 300 watt load and add a throttle cable to the lower hole, to set the voltage for a smaller load. David

Do you happen to have any pics of how that gearbox is set up on the inside? The case itself looks just like the Orline and others except for the branding and those tank tabs. I meant the reduction gearbox part, i.e. the section between the cutter/eccentric housing and the engine. And no I haven't looked inside mine as there are enough things in bits here. David

Other brands that are available include ThreeBond, Seal-All and Motoseal. Another thread on base tank repair; David

I added the recommended fuel mix to the end of second post in the carb rebuild "sticky" thread. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/ David