factory

Nasty stuff, I had to take mine apart to remove two rotten batteries (who knows how old they are) which had rusted to the terminals, maybe Union Carbide would like to send me a new Creme Lure generator. Make sure you clean all the rust off from the terminals as at this low voltage corrosion makes a lot of difference (create resistance). The plastic on these seems to have aged badly on all of these generators I've seen. David

No need to post the same request twice in two days, they aren't that common, possibly no one on here has one they want to part with, I haven't got any early TAS engines in my collection yet, only a later & much larger one. A similar style carb is used on my 1.5HP Fuji (FMC) kit engines, but it does look a bit little larger. David

Mine came from @Webhead, I don't know if he has any left or if they've all gone in the lots on ePay. David

No I hadn't, mainly due to the round ones being available in more sizes, I spent quite a bit of time one day (while I was furloughed from work) measuring parts and searching through data-sheets to find the nearest sizes, then ordered them all individually from one supplier. David

You've just rebuilt a later Comet C/Saw, did you not note the engine Type (I can't see it clearly in any of your pictures)? I found this engine in my archived Comet pictures; with the correct stop switch, notches in the mounting flanges & no hole in the carb for the air cleaner screw, it's also a Type 110. David

The grainy low resolution picture from a manual I have (not mine) gives; Type 96 for the circular saw, Type 113 for the chainsaw, Type 100 for the drill and Type 109 for the pump. Earlier ones may use a letter type instead (my pump uses a Model B for example). It probably is from a the circular saw, a later one without the extra long tube for the muffler and the added switch to compensate for the not having the remote handle mounted one. I just don't have any pictures showing the Type as it's usually inaccessible to take a picture. David

Earlier engines fitted to Tiny Tigers such as yours (#023390) & mine (#036839, picture of carb attached) don't have the governor adjustment control lever. If you want to add this then searching for a later carb is the only answer, just be aware there are two different springs used over the years depending on the governor vane size. That part with the 300 Watt load is to set the needle valve, not the idle stop screw. David

I'm currently experimenting with O rings as replacements for all the shaft seals (not suitable for very late engines with non-replaceable seals though). David

If you could find a source, something like these would also be suitable with some modification to the pickup tube. David

Can you add some pictures of the carb from your Tiny Tiger, they vary quite a bit depending on the age, early ones don't have the little adjustment lever for example. David

Looks like a Comet tools engine, but it's not in the manual pictures I have saved from ePay. David

The stop switch ground wire goes to one of the screws for the starter housing/cover. The other wire goes to where the brass tab switch is normally fitted. David

I'll have a look at mine to see where it goes. David

These engines usually need a full rebuild to make them run well, best to take something else if you were planning to use it this weekend. Check the air cleaner for old crumbly foam as this make a right mess of the inside of the engine if run with it and it gets sucked in. The gearbox with probably need the dried out oil cleaning out and some fresh grease used instead (as recommended in the later service info). David

Kind of hard to tell without seeing inside the carb, the service info suggest that carbs with the external check valve on the inlet contain the diaphragm arm with the rubber pad. David

If you are using a PC with Windows then this thread may help: Not sure about adding pictures using Android devices as I don't like using the small screen for the web and I can't help with Apple "I" thingies as I don't have any. David

At least try cleaning it first, I've had some where dirt was keeping those plastic reeds open and some that never seem to want to sit flat no matter what I do. Sometimes a parts engine can provide a replacement, note that there are differences depending on the bearing/shaft size fitted (you probably know this by now). David

Well that's a new low for those, I hadn't seen one sell for less than $51 before (and that wasn't new condition either), it goes to show some sellers don't bother to research the value of what they are listing. David

I'm sure I've posted this somewhere on the forum before, here is the parts list for the Orline Utility Pump with O&R Type 217 engine; David

Is that the one on ePay that had no pictures, did it really only make $28? Absolute steal if you got it for that price. David

Welcome Mike, there are several different O&R pumps that all seem to use the pump & impeller, I have three different ones here & only one where the impeller is intact, I should really get some measurements from it. This is the impeller remains from my Petro Chug-A-Pump with some measurements (pictures taken years ago). David

The same thing happened here, I made a test stand and it's had an engine displayed on it for many years now. David

The French have a lot to do with why almost all spark-plugs are Metric. https://web.archive.org/web/20120320135004/http://www.asecc.com/data/plughistory.html David

Metric bearings on an American tool, that seems a bit odd to me. David

I've seen three pan head screws* fitted to several Model J engines and my Model F engine, they are shorter so they don't stick out above the four mounting points, for when the gearbox is attached to a metal plate. *Part no #26-47, three fitted according to the parts list. David