factory

Another mini-bike for everyone to add to their want/search lists. I found the Holder Micro Cycle on another forum a while back, it uses the O&R Series 20A engine and the gas tank is part of the bike frame. https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle-parts-or-info.80630/ https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.50824/ The 4 page magazine article from "Mini Bike Guide" November 1971 gives the incorrect spelling of Olsen & Rice instead of Ohlsson & Rice; https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?media/holder-micro-cycle-november-1971-test-report.112533/ https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/holder-micro-cycle.82912/ David

Same problem with large engine trolleys, the smaller the wheels the harder they are to move over uneven ground, but most people still prefer the small wheels. David

Your right, we do need to try & save what we can, tanks especially as they are so often missing. David

The newest master parts price list I have is the Jan 1971 with Apr supplement, the newer folder was completely missing the price list. I also have a 1962 parts price list that needs scanning. Beware of errors though. David

Something more like this then, add one of those Turbair bottles & it can do the crop spraying too. David

Be careful with that list as they don't tell you what other parts need changing to use later parts. David

Interesting I hadn't spotted the original decal for the newer generator was a Model 67, that does explain why the base is missing, it would have had the large tank as shown in the manual*, the older ones with the smaller tank are most commonly a Model 300 (a few are Model 350). Also noticed the starter is labelled AEP. David *I really need to photo the generator that manual came with (Model 5001-1).

Yes I have one with that cover, it does have some missing stuff such as some bulletins, I have also noticed some of the engines for the UK tools are not there (Type 175 & 190 are two). I have an older folder which I have scanned everything from (when I was very ill, off work & couldn't do much else), I have also scanned some of the newer folder. David

Nice find, is this a second one or did you persuade the collector on Smokestak to part with the one on there? It's up to you if you want to start a new thread (you can always add a link to this thread if you do), I've been posting my build on here because all the information is in this thread (remember I was working to the pictures, an incorrect parts diagram and a lot of guess work). David

I've had this unknown O&R powered pole trimmer for a few years (thanks to Wallfish for his help), I'm not 100% sure of the intended use, if anyone has seen one or know what it is please let us know, the pictures below are from the ePay listing. Here are some pictures of the engine & cutter assembly as it arrived and has been for a few years since. David

I've just refilled the box with the next project, will start a new thread for it, hopefully it won't take as long as this one did. David

I see you have people like that there too. Ive seen my share of that here mowers are the worst It happens in a lot of things and the stuff I used to repair for a living. I recycled a mower last weekend, it was massive lump of cheap orange plastic junk, saved a few of the screws & the motor brushes though. The V8 style exhaust seems a little more common, just need to figure out how to make a cooling system, then I can see if the (noisy) neighbours appreciate the sounds from it. David

Any chance of a picture of the AEP decal? I would also be interested in knowing the engine type as well & trying to date it. There are plenty of O&R/Orline bike kits already out there (known as the Chicken Power) these fans don't turn up as often, so it would be a shame if someone were to remove the engine & dump the rest. David

Finally got the Octura carb & 'go-louder' exhaust fitted to my boat engine, the engine still needs rebuilding at some point on the future, will have to make another tool to get the cylinder off. Hopefully I'll find a more original cylinder in the future, this one has been bodged by a previous owner, they didn't even bother to remove the cylinder as there is lots of solder splattered on the inside of the starter. David

Here are some pictures of the Champ generator now the engine has been reattached, taken in-between the rain today. David

The same Klinger Statite* gasket paper (cellulose fibre based) I've had for a long time, I bought a selection of small sheets in six sizes from 6 thou to 63 thou years ago. The size I used for the induction & feather valve assemblies for this engine was 6 thou, some later engines use a thicker size and towards the end they changed to using an 'O' ring seal (no paper gaskets). *The smaller sizes of Statite seem to have been discontinued, Flexoid also have the same type of gasket paper in the UK, similar gasket paper should be available from other companies depending where you are. I have an industrial punch kit that also has a compass based cutter, it came from a business clearance company on ePay years ago for a third of the usual price, I suspect a lot more clearance stuff will appear later in the year from companies that are struggling at the moment. It got used again the other day to cut some more air filter foam, there is a point that can be fitted to the centre for locating the punches if you use two sizes that fit in the same place on the tool. The Olfa cutter looks a better choice if you only have a few engines. David

All done apart from the HT lead & tank. The exhaust fixing rod was found to be too short, it had snapped off where the nut was fitted. Using one borrowed from another of these generators as a template I made a new one from some salvaged rod, the thread for both was #5x40, I also cut a new thread on the old one and added it to the spares box (it could be used for a different engine with a shorter exhaust). Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow & I can take some pictures of the generator outside. David

Don't remember seeing that before. While I was moving engines & parts around to retrieve the generator section of my current project, I found the box with the incomplete Model L (sn 006403), as I suspected the clutch for this early engine doesn't use the keyways. David

Today's progress, the starter was in very good condition apart from a broken screw for the cylinder baffle plate, which soon got removed with the help of the Dremel cutting disc to add a slot. Also rebuilt the carb & cleaned out the air cleaner today, I still need to order some smaller HT lead to repair the coil & find a tank, but hopefully I'll get the rest of this one finished tomorrow. David

For future reference here are the two sizes of piston used for the two types of O&R/AEP Compact Industrial engines. David

Thank you to Terry @JUST O&R for scanning the manual for the Nichols generator Model D, it has now been added to the manuals sticky thread. It reveals the purpose of what looked like a glass lamp inside (found by @Wallfish in the Creme Lure generator refresh thread), it's actually an overload protection thermostat. David

The only paint stripper that seems to work these days is the industrial variety, at least in the UK all the consumer grade stuff has had anything even slightly harmful removed, rendering it useless. David

Depends if you prefer originality or not, if it was mine I would leave it as it is, not all applications used the compression release. Also remember that some of the 20A engines will have a crankshaft & parts for reversed rotation (important to know if you ever need to swap a knackered engine to restore a hard to find tool). If you find any errors in the 20A service manual please let us know (other than the ones I already listed). David

Maybe if you add some dimensions and we could move this to the "What is it?" section, someone might recognise it. O&R stopped using alloy con-rods in the model engines that pre-date the Compact engine, the alloy con-rods couldn't handle the modern glow fuels of the era, the replacement steel con-rods wouldn't bend and the worse case scenario was the cylinder getting blown off instead, or the crankcase splitting. David

I do have a couple of new & used ones, but don't want to use them unless really needed, I had one a while back that had been badly bent & the flanges would never have sealed against the gaskets (that got replaced). This one wasn't rusted through, just badly pitted, the Dremel has smoothed it enough that it should seal fine. David