factory

Well it can't be earlier than August 1960 as the gearbox models weren't available then (plus no mention of Ultra before Compact anywhere), I suspect the original purchaser/owner re-packed it with that newspaper. All the paperwork should have dates in the bottom left corner too, like this from the August 1961 engine price list. David

They seem to turn up fairly often, I have saved pictures of at least 50 of them, there are two here as well neither are in great condition. David

The converted mower is looking very nice now it's finished, did the blade fit the O&R or did it require modification? David

Anyone buy this really nice early Model J with the original box? https://www.ebay.com/itm/203038832058 I rarely look at US listings these days as they sell before I get a chance can see them, but do occasionally check the completed and find all the interesting stuff. David

Will carb cleaner cause any damage to the plastic, I would hate to find out why these tanks end up damaged the hard way. David

I usually try cleaning the tank filter using the largest sized glass syringe I have, after first trying the other methods of cleaning, i.e. your cleaner of choice & using nuts etc. to loosen the crud. I'm guessing they don't have "stoves" in Arizona. David

No idea without trying to look inside with my cheap borescope camera, will see if I get a chance at the weekend. David

I'm surprised it's the tank is like that, it almost looks unused, I guess it got used once, they left the gas in & it never started again and then got abandoned in it's box. The 410 in the model number seems familiar, I'm sure @pmackellow's Dyna-mite version is also a model 410, but mine is a model 300 (only difference seems to be an extended tank filler). David

Very strange that they didn't put AEP on it anywhere, it should date to somewhere around 1977/78 from the original advertising. Thanks for measuring those parts. David

Same here, mostly back together but I haven't got round to adding the progress to the thread. Rain has stopped me cleaning some parts outside so I've been working on vintage HP counter that's also been in bits for too long. I forgot to ask before, but what are the approx dimensions of the two trimmer guards? and are there any markings on the trimmer head to indicate if it was either made by AEP* or bought in? Some pictures of the trimmer head may also help @Brian Lynch with locating the lost parts for his Groomer trimmer. David The title of both threads should really have AEP in it.

It might go faster but I'm not sure any of us could actually fit in one, unlike the mini-bikes or open toby cart. Shame they cost as much a normal car too. David

Looks very nice, but I can't help thinking if it was used as a mower the bare aluminium would corrode very quickly. David

You did well to get that for the price, the seller could easily have got more if they had let the auction run. Do the instructions mention anything about the make/type of pump that fits on the back of the generator? David

Unfortunately I can't tell you if it's original or not, my manual was missing the relevant pages (engines type 13B426 & 13B427), did the engine look to have been apart before (it would have been noticeable with it being painted all over)? Will have a look to see if I have any other later engine diagrams that may show it. David

Another one of these appeared yesterday on ePay in France, definitely not a work of art in this condition (needs a lot more than some body filler) but does show most of the parts used in the pictures. It had 9 days left when I saw it earlier today, but just noticed it has ended early before posting. https://www.ebay.fr/itm/143639800300 David

There isn't one, it was on something much older and looks more like a gasket to fill space behind the bearing. David

There are certainly plenty of them where you are, so it shouldn't be too hard to find one or two at a reasonable price to add to your collection if you wanted to, just be aware that the cylinders are spot welded to the crankcase for most of them, the .049 cylinder is threaded same as the later Compact range. David

For the last couple of carb rebuilds I've used a piece of gasket paper for sliding the spring over the roller, the gasket paper has also been used to set the coil gap at 10 thou. David

There are 18 rollers in both pictures I took, you have to fit them in the crankcase on this type before inserting the crankshaft. Can't see anything that looks like a thrust washer though. David

Just to be really helpful (not) the parts lists describe that as a "crankcase assy. (includes bearing & thrust washer)" with no part numbers for the rollers or thrust washer, some parts lists from 1970 mention this type of bearing arrangement, I guess they could turn up randomly in other engines. My picture was from a 13B-252 engine dating from 1973, here is the before picture, the bearing appears to be made by Torrington, I seem to remember something like a disintegrated seal behind it, also there is another parts crankcase I saw a few weeks ago with this bearing. David

This is what I now use to clean the fuel tubing/filters in the tanks & carb, I have several different size glass syringes (the type that survives use with gas/petrol). I use gas/petrol or cleaner and use the syringe with a piece of fuel line to gently soak & push the crude out. Note: this is best done outside & there is nothing in the syringe in the picture, I tend not to have the camera out when I'm cleaning with petrol. These are the red gaskets (#200600) I have, I believe the one used in these trimmers maybe slightly different (#200600B) as they only use one (don't know if it's thicker ), some of the later engines use two of the red gaskets (#200600A). Anyway the part #200600 I have is approx 0.036" thick & does have steel wire used in it. David

I'm sure he's only joking. I'm the same with HP test gear, got more than enough here, but I still keep buying more. David

What is different about the bearing, is it just the standard later style one? Or are you referring to this type in the crankcase which I've come across a couple of times, this one was in a 13B engine from a hedge cutter. Did you find out why the PTO seemed wobbly/loose? David

iPhone camera is all I have anymore... I’ll have to try editing sometime. Sometimes I use either a torch (aka flashlight) or a desk light to get better lighting, the macro setting will probably be auto selected on your phone (a little flower symbol indicates it's on), I have an older digital camera where you have to manually select it. I find it's quicker to transfer pictures from the old camera to my PC (using it's SD card) then using my newer phone & it's painfully slow USB cable. Better focus on the seal in this picture. Inside with slightly pre-rusted bearing surface, all the NOS parts I have are like this. David

They aren't going to any use for the induction housing as it uses smaller seals for the PTO shaft, as far as I know they are bonded with a metal ring. But will help anyone that has a later engine that needs a new front bearing seal (flywheel side). They probably changed to these non-replaceable parts so that they could sell the more expensive parts rather than just the seals. Good external lighting & the macro setting on your camera helps with close up pictures like that and editing to remove anything not of interest as the forum resizes images, resolution of small parts will be lost if you don't. David