factory

We can only estimate the date for this engine*, it was made sometime between 1964 & 1965, possibly around mid to late 1964, the reed valve if original would have the plastic reed material, this was used from serial 066809, before that they used a metal reed. *Before June 1967 the serial numbers were sequential with no date coded into them, from June 1967 all serial numbers have the year & month coded into them, the format is YMSSSS or YMMSSSS, first number identifies the year, second (and third) number/s the month, the remaining four numbers are engine S/N which restarted at 0001 each month. David

From the serial number 93xxxx the engine dates from March 1969, in August of that year they stopped stamping the serial number into the crankcase and instead put it on the cylinder cooling baffle (not fitted on this engine), which are often taken off & go missing. Very nice engine by the way, you've reminded me I need to fit the Octura carb & exhaust to mine, it's not the V8 exhaust though. David

I've been sorting all the various boxes of incomplete engines & parts over the weekend, I came across the remains of what I think was a chainsaw engine, with a crankcase that will be very useful for building the trimmer engine from the spares I have. Someone had tried to fill in the crankcase port with a solder blob , I soon got rid of that, something that may not be obvious from the pictures is that the port goes in at an angle to avoid the crankcase mounting holes. David

Is the Turbair box something you bought recently, or found while searching in the shed? I have a similar box but it's so mouldy it's kept inside another box, I did clean up the spare bottle that came with it & sent that to Wallfish to complete his sprayer. I've got no idea if the box can be cleaned without destroying it. David

A quick update of the coil repair, the correct HT lead arrived last week and over the weekend I have re-wired the coil. Just a note the plastic of the coil is very brittle where the cable exits the coil (I accidentality dropped it ), I had to repair that damage first before I could fit the new copper core HT lead, it took two days to allow time for the araldite to set properly. David P.S. Bonus pictures of the bare coil being tested on a 1962 HP tube voltmeter, which got repaired while I was waiting for the new HT lead to arrive, I need to find some of those nice long narrow croc clips for the more modern meters.

Would you like these adding to the manuals/literature thread? I can turn the pictures into a pdf too, note the resolution of pictures in threads is limited to keep running costs down. Also nice to see the 1969 price list has the rotary valve & other upgrades for the O&R Compact engine. David

Nearly right then. Maybe it would go with your water-cooled O&R engine, just need the rest of the boat to go with it. David

Going by the weights given in the manual, the engine (3¾lb) & two alternators (6½lb each) would cost somewhere around $120 to ship over, how close am I? It's difficult to estimate the packaging weight. What is the little propeller from, in the fourth picture from the first post? David

Here is how I now use the cylinder removal tool, I found it too easy to bend the small bar I used previously, a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) makes it much easier to undo or tighten the cylinder, I use offcuts of plywood to protect the crankcase being marked by the vice jaws. David

The wiring is your choice, as soon as you disturb/separate the rear section they all crack or crumble to bits. The bearing should be fine as long as it is free from rust & spins freely, I can't imagine any of these got used for long enough to wear the bearings at all. David

The steering strut, drive shaft, prop & large fin, are listed as being for both the White Heat V & X in the May 1966 price list. But the V8 style exhaust is different for the V & X (60° for the V & 90° for the X). David

The rebuild thread for the TT350 from @Wallfish is here; Also the original Tiny Tiger manual (Model 5001-1, 5001-2 & 67) with service information can be found in the manuals sticky thread, it could also be useful for the older TT Model 300. Could be the magnetism of the rotor, the rear section (with the connectors/socket) needs to come off with the middle section (alternator windings). The little cover hides the screw & bearing for the rotor, I've never needed to remove the cover to separate the generator section. David

The May 1966 price list only mentions plans for the White Heat V, X, 60 & 30. But the price list & newsletters do mention other White Heat hulls, there are motor/engine mounts & parts for the XV & XIV, plus the 4-60 mentioned in a newsletter. They also advertised kits for the UK made Aerokits Sea Queen cruiser and plans for the Underhill sea-going tug (suitable for gas, steam or electric power). The Octura 1965 catalog is full of casting kits for various miniature gas & steam engines, books and a range of Stuart engines (& accessories) available in kit form or ready built. No O&R's or boats in the main catalog. Maybe @CNew can see if there are any other boats in the more recent Octura catalogues & price list he has. David

Apologies for the delay with the coil, the cable supplier sent me fibre cored HT lead by mistake (totally useless for O&R coils), I now waiting for the replacement tinned copper core HT lead to arrive. David

That White Heat V looks suspiciously like Webhead's. I'll get the O&R relevant bits on the scanner at some point and let you know when they are added to the manuals thread. David

Quote below from this Chip-A-Saw thread: https://myoldmachine.com/topic/6402-ohlsson-rice-chip-a-saw-gets-a-new-life/ What did you end up using for the Bowden conduit? David

Looks very nice, well done. David

The Yard-Arm uses a Type 184 (radial mount) engine, the clutch drum in that engine should have a keyway in it for the drive shaft, the Yard-Arm parts list doesn't give the part number for the rear housing but it looks different as it has to fit the drive tube, that said unless one appears we don't know if there could be an older version that uses a different engine Type. The Model L was one of the standard engine range, available for anyone to buy & fit to whatever tool or application they could think of, the Type 99 & Type 199 are the later direct drive engines with clutch. I have since acquired a Type 106 engine with the clutch assembly fitted, no idea if it's original yet (engine is sn 052178). David

You shouldn't have too much difficulty in finding an incomplete parts Tiny Tiger in the US where they are most common, the only problem might be finding a seller that will ship to Canada. David

These very early engines use different shafts to the later ones, I do have one very incomplete parts engine of this age, I will need to check which shaft it uses. I also have an early Model L, sadly missing the rear section of the clutch housing. David

I don't actually have much paperwork for anything to do with Octura except a leaflet from a UK reseller of them, that doesn't mention the special rotary valve. Does it look similar in design to the rotary valves used on the older O&R model plane engines (before the Compact engine existed)? David P.S. just ordered an Octura 1965 catalog featuring the O&R powered White Heat, will see if that has anything in it when it arrives from the US. The 1965 Octura catalog arrived today, the main catalog doesn't have anything O&R in it, but the extra newsletters, leaflet & the price list does. The Octura rotary valve is mentioned as being available in 1966, other modifications mentioned for boosting performance include throwing away the governor vane & the ball valve mechanism from the carb, boring out the carb (this requires a making a new butterfly throttle) and different fuel mixes. Also sold by Octura in the US was the Sea Queen boat kit, imported from Aerokits in England. David

When I was looking through the early service information (1961) a few days ago, I noticed something very similar for unscrewing the cylinder, for some reason the socket is described as being 3/32" thick, which is clearly wrong (tool #11 in list). The later manual mentions a different tool, which is very easy to make, I find a using a crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) is better than the flimsy bar (or ruining a screwdriver as mentioned in the manual) and the engine can be held in a vice using soft jaws (to prevent marking the crankcase). David

I've found a good used set of points, the coil is a problem at the moment, all the parts engines seem to have faulty (intermittent wiring) or damaged coils. I'm going to order some HT cable and see if I can repair some of them, as NOS are unobtainium. David

With the information I posted with the letter from August 1960 for the first brochure, it mentioned that the three gearbox models were not yet available but would be in production soon, so that sort of dates your very early gearbox engine to sometime between the end of 1960 and early 1961, the next set of parts diagrams date from August 1961 (only two piston rings were used by then). And looking at the gears fitted, this engine looks to be a Model H (1700 R.P.M. with clutch). David

I should probably explain, this unusual early engine with gearbox was on ePay about 3 years ago, unfortunately I couldn't bid (or even ask for more info/pictures) as the seller had the usual international buyer blocking, it was also payment in cash & collection only. You helped me by contacting the seller, but sadly they never replied, that one picture is all I have from the listing. It's good to know the engine survived & has found a home with CNew, as it never sold on ePay & I really thought it had been lost for good. David