factory

Sadly I don't have a manual for the Estate 400 (only that low-res picture), but can help with pictures of some of the parts, including the trigger & cable, I have a few little trimmer head parts but none of the bigger pieces of the trimmer head. The stop/kill switch on most of the these engines has always been a simple shorting switch, either the brass strip type or a bought in switch, some of the chainsaws have a more complicated switch mechanism in the handle. David

Those are "press fit" diodes, they look similar to those used in the alternator part of the Tiny Tiger, which are used to rectify the AC generated from the alternator windings to supply the low voltage DC for battery charging. Do those have a part number on them? I've no idea why these diodes in my Tiny Tor have two different colors in the center, the picture also shows extra holes for the diodes to fit into, those are only used if one fails. Also available in "gold-plated rust" finish in my older Tiny Tiger. David

If anyone is interested there is an O&R with the Octura V-8 style exhaust on ePay at the moment; https://www.ebay.com/itm/383498494441 The same seller has another lot with some other parts including the correct Octura mount for the O&R, shame it's mixed in with a load of other parts; https://www.ebay.com/itm/383498470128 Note: these are only available for shipping to United States, Canada, Bahamas, Uruguay. David

There is also a possibility that it may use the later diaphragm arm with the rubber seal, instead of the ball bearing under the diaphragm arm. David

Maybe as we have both seen it before. I was looking through my saved pictures yesterday and came across this one; David

@Wallfish do you recognise anything about the early engine that CNew acquired? David

O&R listed the water-cooled cylinder in the 1962 parts diagram (part no. #A-40-3), I'm still looking for a decent one for my engine, but I do have the large exhaust and an Octura carb. And I should point out that there are other versions of the White Heat hydroplane for smaller engines than the Compact engine. David

The little brass part is a check valve, which is often stuck, here is a quote from @Wallfish in a thread last month about the same part; I've had one stuck too, at the time I had access to a large industrial ultrasonic cleaner which eventually cleaned the fuel/oil residue from it. The brass check valve is a press fit, I wouldn't recommend trying to remove it. David

I don't actually have much paperwork for anything to do with Octura except a leaflet from a UK reseller of them, that doesn't mention the special rotary valve. Does it look similar in design to the rotary valves used on the older O&R model plane engines (before the Compact engine existed)? David P.S. just ordered an Octura 1965 catalog featuring the O&R powered White Heat, will see if that has anything in it when it arrives from the US.

Those older coils always seem to have cracked (rubber) insulation on the wiring. Yes it needs the link tubing & gas line installing for the tank, plus an earlier air cleaner (they have fewer holes). David

What happened to the rest of the parts? I thought the lot included another boat mount & some other fittings. None of the three engines in the lot you bought are anywhere near new enough to go with that 1977 brochure, is the other one older? Also I've seen this engine before, it last sold in 2017. The rest of the parts & literature (dated 1971 on price list) look suspiciously like the parts from this lot (also sold in 2017), but the newer engine wasn't in the lot you just bought. David

Contact either @Wallfish or @CNew by private message & they should be able to supply some new laser cut carb diaphragms. What condition were the original ones in? The later Tiny Tiger engine may use the carb with the rubber pad attached to the diaphragm arm, we don't have a source for replacing these, but hopefully it will still be OK if it's not been run. If not we can advise alternate parts. David

I've now had a look for both types of starter dogs and taken some new pictures for comparison. The middle section of part no. A-139-2 measures approx 1/2" and the older part no. A-139 measures approx 9/16" (from the early Model L engine I have). And here are the two different types of starter dogs shown on an early flywheel (from a Petro Chug-A-Pump approx engine s/n #14000). And the same starter dogs shown on a slightly later flywheel (from a Tiny Tiger approx engine s/n #35000). If the information from the 1962 parts list is correct then the starter dog part no. A-139 was last used on engine no. #015997, after this they should be part no. A-139-2. If you need the later one (A139-2) then I have a couple of used spares, I don't remember thinking I would need many so didn't buy any spares from Webhead, as I said before I don't have any spare of the older ones (A-139). David

That one has an engine made in Feb 1974, which was the last year that these engines were branded as O&R, in December 1974 they started advertising under the new name of AEP (Advanced Engine Products Inc). I've not seen any videos that I can recommend, none of them seem to do any research into how to repair these engines beforehand, but then again you've got to remember they are mainly made for entertainment purposes only and aren't really tutorials. As well as the Tiny Tiger rebuild guide @Wallfish posted, there are others here for the carb & engine, also if you don't have the original manual for those Tiny Tigers I scanned mine & added it to the Manuals thread. David

I'm not at all surprised seats are advertised at silly prices, anything to do with vintage bikes seems to be really expensive these days. Those two Micro Power bikes I have pictures of sold for $1k+ and that was in 2015. David

These are the only other pictures I have showing the brake mechanism, the bike dynamo hides most of the mechanism, the unknown make mini-bike I bought uses a simple band brake on the front wheel. David

I've had a look through my archived pictures (from ePay), it disappears into the one of the handlebar tubes as shown in the picture below, the wire for the kill switch must also go inside the tubing on that side. The standard lever type control on the other side is for the rear wheel brake. Here are a few other pictures showing the cables on another of these bikes. David

I've had a look at the serial numbers on my Petro saw, the saw number is lower than @Bodger's saw and my engine is approx #062000 (quite a bit newer than the pump I was referring to the other night). If it's of a similar age then it probably does use the later A-139-2 starter dogs, measuring the remaining one would confirm this. David

I thought a new thread would be a good idea for looking to source new Bowden cable/conduit tubing for the O&R throttle cables. I have a long NOS conduit here (the inner wire is a separate part) which I've measured today, with the plastic sleeving on it measures approx 0.145" to 0.15" (depending where you measure) and the steel core measures 0.125". The separate inner wire measures approx 0.047", this may vary slightly too. I noticed the plastic coating is removed where it enters the carb on my mini-bike. Here is a thread on another forum (which was one of the first search results I found the other night), there are a few different suppliers mentioned that have different types of Bowden cable. https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/4182/extra-fine-bowden-cable One of the links has some conduit tubing that might be suitable, the second one in the list could be suitable with the plastic removed (OD is 0.153" with plastic coating), maybe email them to confirm. https://bergencable.com/_media/products/control_cables/pdfs/conduit.pdf David

That would be a good idea, just I can't think which section it should be in, as we don't seem to have a car related section at the moment. Do you have any more before pictures, I'm curious as to how it it looked inside and what engine it originally had. David

Very nice, there aren't many 220/240V versions about, even in the UK where our mains supply is that voltage. The first one with the serial decal, has an engine dating from Feb 1968, can't see the plate clearly enough on the second one to comment on the date. I recommend changing the filter foam, even though they don't look used, 50+ year old foam ages badly and will crumble apart. If he plans to sell & ship them, it may be best not to run them, as gas & shipping companies are not a great mix. I had someone send an O&R bike kit full of gas, USPS seized it as it was leaking out of the box and that was the end of that. Yes distributing a small amount of oil around the cylinder & piston is a good idea as it will prevent it getting stuck in long term storage, be sure to park the piston so that it blocks the exhaust ports if storing. David

The dimensions are slightly different between the two, the middle part is longer on the A-139 starter dog, I haven't got one to check but from memory the hole is bigger on the A-139-2 starter dog. Perhaps we need to know the serial number of the engine to confirm which flywheel & starter dogs it has. David

No you need part A-139, which are unobtainable as I found out a few years ago repairing the engine from a Chug-A-Pump, here is the picture I posted then showing the two types. I have had to change the flywheel on a few engines to the later type as a result and had to make a new in-between sized flywheel key too. There is a spare later flywheel here if needed, though it would be easier to use that spare engine he's just bought. David

Hi Andy, You've found the remains of a Turbair crop sprayer, it's missing a few parts including the blade guarding, but at least it does have the manual which is often missing. Yes I have new diaphragms & have located a used starter (slightly later) from my spares, I would suggest you go through the engine to make sure nothing else is required. Also have a look to see which type of check valve gasket is used, if it's not the clear plastic version you might need to change that too, see the carb thread for more information. David P.S. I can't go out at the moment, so will have to rely on someone else to post any parts out to you.

What would the purpose of that be? I'm actually struggling to think of the purpose of a neon lamp* in the generator, it is also possible it could be a filament lamp (I can't actually see the internals from the picture), there is a part labelled overload protector on the Nichols generator parts list in the other thread, this would make more sense as small filament lamps were also used as fuses in the past, hopefully the wiring diagram will show & confirm the purpose. David *apart from over-voltage protection, which wouldn't be of any-use here.