factory

Maybe you could make something like this test stand I made a few years ago, it never actually got used for testing anything as it quickly turned into a permanent display stand for this engine, going to need to make another eventually. By the way I noticed your sectioned engine is missing something, some filter foam for the air cleaner. Also I had a thought overnight having remembered seeing a sectioned engine being slowly driven at a local engine show (many years ago), a slow low voltage DC motor (3-4 RPM) could be used for this. David

Apologies I forgot to add the Variac before the welder to control the glow plug current. David

Complete opposite here in the UK, massive queues to get food in some places & too many people close together. I'm now off work till Easter, someone finally had sense & closed work as distancing just wasn't working in most areas, plus passenger train parts must no longer be key work. That was impossible for me, work don't like people looking on their phones, plus many cameras are now watching & being used against us. David

Strangely familiar yes, I think I remembered to fix the starter before I sent it your way. David

Original service procedures for taking apart & repairing the two older style starters can be found in the manuals sticky thread in Section 2; The rivet does not hold the reel or spring in, it's for the reel bearing and that doesn't need to come out to service or repair the starters. I hope were not too late. David

Yes definitely Fillister head screws, @Webhead has helped with the Phillips type used on most engines, I've also found a UK supplier (Accu) for the Slotted type used on the early engines, I ordered a couple of samples of chemical blackened versions with my last order from them. McMaster Carr have stainless steel Phillips Fillister head screws in sensible order quantities, they also have Slotted version in both zinc plated steel & stainless steel; https://www.mcmaster.com/fillister-head-machine-screws David

Hope it works out, I didn't make an offer as I've spent too much recently (that minibike mostly), plus the £ has dropped in value a lot (TP will be worth more soon ). David

I'm not sure about the tank as it hides some of the cut-away parts, plus there is nowhere for the condenser to attach. Your not kidding, first one we've seen for a very long time. David

Looking very nice and well done for saving the original decal. David

That's interesting, those prices from Sears in 1962 are lower than buying from O&R in either 1961 or 1963 , thanks for sharing. Here are the equivalent O&R engine models & prices; 32FA8800, 3300 RPM no clutch = Model D, 1961 $47.95, 1963 $47.85 32FA8801, 3300 RPM with clutch = Model G, 1961 $48.95, 1963 $49.25 32FA8802, 1700 RPM no clutch = Model E, 1961 $47.95, 1963 $47.85 32FA8803, 1700 RPM with clutch = Model H, 1961 $48.95, 1963 $49.95 32FA8804, throttle control = A-50, 1961 & 1963 $1.00 The 1961 brochure/price list is in the manuals sticky thread if you haven't seen it (Section 1), I still need to add the 1963 one. David

A pair of Chip-A-Saw or Bunyan's, the O&R instruction decal position/rotation differs on these. David

I was thinking it needed more current to get those plug wires glowing, a welder should do. David

Can't help thinking he could have saved it for Apr 1st. David

Confirmed it uses a type 26-53 muffler screw, other standard parts not required. David

I'm sure I've seen a tapered handle like that somewhere in the O&R literature, also the standard 13B style one shown in the parts diagrams for some engines. David

I can't comment on value for these as I haven't seen enough sold, but a nice boxed Tiny Tiger generator can go for that sort of price and they are far more common. David

It's certainly getting quieter on the roads at rush hour, very little open in the UK too apart from essential shops & services. David

Mine is the later version with the Series 13B engine. The air cleaner uses a clip to hold it in place on this one, note the condition of the tank, corrosion caused by lazy user not cleaning the chippings after use, tree sap is acidic. David

I must be the only one on here still working, can't see that changing anytime soon as I work repairing train parts. That's a very nicely restored Orline chainsaw. You've found out the problem with the tank seals, the manual mentions that used tank seals shrink once exposed to air, if anyone finds some new-old-stock it would be a good idea to use them to have some more made (there are a couple of different ones depending on the age of the chainsaw). David

Looks exactly as shown in the manual picture below, never seen one of the larger tank versions with an engine that early though. David

No idea, how is it connected on the back? David

I guess one of the later Chicken Power kits with the longer exhaust might have helped avoid the oil spray problem. David

Very nice, only the second boxed generator of this type we have seen, the other is the Creme Lure version in this thread (post #12); David

I tend to agree, I think I like symmetry when there is a bird decal. See post #32, one of the pair I imported has the vertical decal & the other has it tilted, both have the switch fitted are have engine type 13A253. I guess it your choice which you prefer if you need a new decal. David

1000 Engine Rally near Chelford in June is cancelled till next year. Looks like Malpas Yesteryear rally in September maybe OK, no decision till August. David