factory

I have the Petro drill, pump & chainsaw, probably won't find the mini-bike though, too expensive usually. David

Yes it's my Petro Chug-A-Pump, some more pictures of the wreck I started with in this thread; I really need to update that thread, too late tonight though. David

Is guess it's your choice, either the modify the Mono decal you have, fit a standard O&R one, or wait until Titch has time to make these again. David

OK, do you know anyone with a wood turning lathe? Any condenser from an O&R would work, if an early style one had failed in service it would have been replaced with the later one. I've used modern parts too; The rest of the pump is the same as the Comet, Orline, Petro etc with the small rotary vane type pump, the type with the rubber impeller that always seems to be knackered. Petro version shown below; David

How much is a single decal? Could you not get a batch made and sell the others to people that need them? David

That's one of the first 6000ish engines, it's possible it might not have a Model stamped into it, it's certainly not a Model J as it has the remains of the pump it was once part of. The capacitor would have been the slightly larger diameter one. The starter pull would have been the lacquered/varnished wood type, could you not try stripping the paint of a later one? David

This is the correct starter knob for your engine; https://www.ebay.com/itm/254667514687 David

I've got to say that is a vast improvement on the paint finish it had before. David

What a joke, that is totally misrepresented and very dishonest to use those mini-bike pictures they found. Try used engine, fell off a chainsaw, only one screw holding the starter on (because the other four are still in the chainsaw tank). David

It looks like a Model B with an X stamped over it to me (to convert it to a Model A), a Model B has a base mount gas tank, a Model A would have a standard round gas tank that could be fitted anywhere. Serial #014811 would date from somewhere between late 1961 to early 1962, sorry I can't give a more accurate date for these earlier engines, after June 1967 they had the date coded into the serial number. The engine is a 3/4HP version, it would not had a decal for this as no other versions were available at the time this was made. These are the decals it would have had (from engine #014035); The V8 style exhaust was supplied by Octura Models, the 60° version is for the White Heat V and the 90° version is for the White Heat X. David

Been way too busy moving stuff into storage the last week, the workbench is still a complete mess but hopefully it will be useable again soon. I've got at least one starter here that someone has fitted a solid rivet too, of course this would be fine if it was one of the earliest engines. I also have a couple of NOS rivets too, not tried fitting one yet either, but I did fit a pop-rivet to one a few years before I got the NOS ones, luckily the steel insert came out leaving the hole for oiling. You could do with finding someone that does "EDM drilling" to add a hole to that rivet that just spins when you try drilling it. David

The engine certainly looks a lot better without the half done spray paint finish. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished saw. David

At the end of the day it's your saw and your choice if you would like to repaint it, I prefer to keep them original but the paint on these later tools isn't great, it can only be cost cutting when they chose to spray everything at once, I don't like the half painted look they ended up with on that engine. The starter is clearly a replacement so matching the color would be a little more difficult. I can't imagine you'll have any trouble finding a spare crankshaft, as they are usually OK, a spares engine should provide one or there is that seller that parts out chainsaws on ePay. David

They do turn up occasionally in the UK, if I'm correct there are two that have made it to the US so far, I'll probably have a spare one available if anyone over there is interested. At least we now know how they were packed for shipping. Hopefully going out again on Tuesday to pick up a small collection of O&R engines. David

I had a long day driving yesterday to collect this drill (& some vintage electronics), it's the nicest Bridges Mini Mota drill I've seen and it came with the original box & instructions. And a first for me this drill actually came with the chuck key. David

That looks very nice, excellent job. David

I can't imagine the Eden Prairie address was more than an office and/or warehouse, as the factory was still in LA till the end when AEP finally closed in 1978. David

A bit more searching finds a Honda service bulletin with the pre-ISO JIS thread sizes for 3mm (0.6mm pitch), 4mm (0.75mm pitch), 5mm (0.9mm pitch) & 12mm (1.5mm pitch) threads. And a warning about stripping threads out if using the incorrect pitch. https://4-stroke.net/data-archive/honda-s-technical-service-bulletins/no-27-june-1967-change-of-threaded-parts.html Make sure any supplier/seller you find has the correct pitch before ordering. David

I wouldn't recommend rethreading them the standard ISO size unless you fit helicoils. The crankcase screws on my TAS J-22 are standard M6 x 1mm pitch. But the cylinder cooling baffle/cover screws are coarser than standard M5, a bit of checking & research find they are actually 0.9mm pitch, according to a 1941 book the French also used this size (the international standard didn't go below M6 then). The later Japanese stuff I have here including the FMC engines, car radios and test equipment have decals/stickers or markings to indicate they only use ISO threads. Hope this helps. David

They are quite commonly found with the earlier engines. That's what you get with mass production and some of those chromed steel balls come pre-rusted (picture from eBay). The diaphragm kits are made in small batches, just be thankful they are available at all, I can't imagine the material is cheap either. David

OK will check them when I get a chance and let you know if I can find a match. David

I don't think the number 1 or 2 on the casting means anything useful, just looked through some of my pictures and have found both numbers used on early side needle valve carbs with the small 1/16" ball bearing. Not sure what you mean about the spring in the paper assist post as it isn't shown in the final position. If your engine has clear check valve diaphragm then it's probably OK, if it's the black rubber material (as used for the main diaphragm) then they do go bad, I've even had one where the part of it was completely missing. David

Is this one of the other ones that was on ePay recently? Just noticed it doesn't look as clean or shiny as the boxed one at the start of this thread. David

Yes I have seen similar engines on outboards, can you indicate which screws are missing and I could have a look at mine & see if I can work out the sizes. David

Looks very similar to the brushes I put in in our ancient Black & Decker drill (one with a metal gearbox), seems to have outlasted many more modern plastic ones. I also save brushes from any motor or tool that gets scrapped. Nice to see the inside of the generator too, never knew it used a slip ring for the rotor. David