factory

The engine is now mostly back together apart from the carb & starter.
 
This exhaust collector was a bit too far gone for the aluminium foil cleaning method, it was so rusty I had to use the big wire wheel to start with, followed by lots of sanding with the Dremel to get the gasket surfaces smoother (as best I could), forgot to take a before picture.

 
I had to make a few more gaskets for the induction & feather valve assemblies.

 
Here is the coupling used on these UK Champ generators, this one has two three thin washers as the coupling doesn't quite fit level with the PTO shaft.


 
David

Interesting, the label looks to say Controlled Airstreams, searching for that & fan gives the full name as "Controlled Airstreams Inc." a company that made fans, apparently taken over by Tempest Technology Corp. they still sell fans for many applications; https://www.tempest.us.com/
including fans for ventilation after fires.
 
David

I'm waiting to hear back Wallfish
I am waiting to hear back from Wallfish

If you wanted a similar looking exhaust it probably wouldn't be too hard to make, if you can find the correct size chrome tubing, just don't go filling it with that stuff though.
 
David

The tank on your Drillgine seems to have the missing part from the second line of the Orion decal.
 
Looking a couple of decals & piecing together the surviving parts, I think this it the full decal (not 100% sure on Associates);
ORION MANUFACTURING CO.
Div. of Orion Associates Inc.
14873 E. FIRESTONE BLVD.
LA MIRADA CALIF.
 
Searching for 14873 E. FIRESTONE BLVD.* gives an extra magazine article (from Popular Mechanics Oct 1963) for the sticky thread;
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=CeMDAAAAMBAJ&pg==PP1&lr&pg=PA163#v=onepage&q&f=false
It's also in the April 1962 Popular Science;
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=LCEDAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PP1&lr&pg=PA32#v=onepage&q&f=false
 
Two models were available with the 1360 r.p.m. version having a 3/8" chuck & the 620 r.p.m. having a 1/2" chuck.
 
David
 
*And another area of cleared land on google earth.

I bought this drill thinking it was a Drillgine, but after looking at the Comet pump thread this morning, I'm now thinking it is a Comet.  I'm wondering if it is complete, as it has no throttle or governor speed selector on it.  It appears near new, and was found in the attic of an old hardware store that was liquidated.  This is the condition as I received it.   Looking for some expert opinions!

Something else I noticed when I took it apart further, the wire for the coil primary to the points/condenser had been incorrectly routed & had got crushed between the magneto plate & cylinder, this will need sleeving. The HT lead also has damage to the insulation.

 
Most of the parts got cleaned outside earlier, apart from the rusty exhaust it's all cleaned up nicely.

 
David

I just got Advanced Engine Products Incorporated gas engine fire department fan it needs two cycle oil what kind of oil or should I use in what proportion to the gasoline. Can anyone help?

I've had this for some time, it was seized & a previous owner had removed the cylinder without freeing up the piston resulting in a snapped con-rod. I dissembled it a few years ago & managed to remove the piston intact, unfortunately the rings are stuck for good, I suspect it got run without any oil.


 
The engine has been in bits in this biscuit tin for far too long, it's time to clean & rebuild it.

 
David

Something else I noticed when I took it apart further, the wire for the coil primary to the points/condenser had been incorrectly routed & had got crushed between the magneto plate & cylinder, this will need sleeving. The HT lead also has damage to the insulation.

 
Most of the parts got cleaned outside earlier, apart from the rusty exhaust it's all cleaned up nicely.

 
David

That's what I thought you meant, just wanted to clarify for others that may read this thread in the future and start searching for a non-existent attachment.
 
 
Here are some pictures of the inside of the clutch unit for the O&R Tarpen Mini Engine power-head, the rear housing & clutch drum are the OEM parts for this...

 
... and the rest of the clutch & engine mounting are standard O&R parts.

 
This threaded adaptor fits in the end on the clutch unit, if you have one of these and it's not seized, add some fresh grease to it to prevent this.

 
David

That's what I thought you meant, just wanted to clarify for others that may read this thread in the future and start searching for a non-existent attachment.
 
 
Here are some pictures of the inside of the clutch unit for the O&R Tarpen Mini Engine power-head, the rear housing & clutch drum are the OEM parts for this...

 
... and the rest of the clutch & engine mounting are standard O&R parts.

 
This threaded adaptor fits in the end on the clutch unit, if you have one of these and it's not seized, add some fresh grease to it to prevent this.

 
David

I've had one of those days where you go one step forward & two or three back.
 
Here are most of the parts I had found for building this engine, the new parts are outside the trays on the right.

 
The crankcase was assembled with the crankshaft, con-rod, piston & magneto coil plate, then came the first problem, I would normally hold the crankcase in the vice when screwing the cylinder down, unfortunately the port tube in the crankcase mounting flange prevented me from using the pieces of wood I usually fit to prevent damage from the vice jaws.
A lot of searching for something else I could use found a brass earth terminal strip, removing one of the screws allowed the tube to be protected.

 
Here's where things went a bit wrong, I found I couldn't get the cylinder to screw down fully, I tried several times but it kept getting stuck part way. I then thought either the crankcase or cylinder might have damaged threads, I first tried the cylinder on another crankcase and it fitted fine. 
The part built engine got stripped down again & I went through the other used cylinders I had, eventually I found one that fitted, ironically it was the one that originally came with the crankcase, I had picked another because the top fin had a piece broken off.
 
After this I needed to clean some of the parts again, it got reassembled to the point I was at before and this time thankfully the cylinder screwed all the way down with no problems. The exhaust collector was positioned at 90 degrees and I checked a starter would fit, this is as far as I've got today.


 
David

That's the second O&R pump Cnew has that's missing the pump section, I don't think mine has an intact impeller either, being made of rubber they dry out & crack up with age, as well as fail if run dry. I do have at least one pump with a good impeller here somewhere.
 
The handle is attached on the other side of mine, it's also one of the few older engines I have with the Model letter printed on the decal, I had to fit a new set of feet as the originals were falling apart;


 
David

Thank you everyone for helping me out with my project. 1975 Drillgine. Received the diaphragm today. It runs. Just need to make some final adjustments. 

Finally got it all back together. I haven’t tried to run it yet but compression feels good and it has spark.
 

Added some nitro to it and went to town on this Ash tree. Probably cut that stump down another 4-6 inches before the stump grinder.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Just thought it would be funny to show how small these little saws really are.
Should have seen the look on the guys face when I walked up with it an asked if he needed any help. Just a completely blank stare until he realized it was a joke.

The Tarpen Flex attachments aren't too hard to find, apart from certain ones. Tarpen made PTO units to fit a lot of machinery that used the flexible drive to the attachments, the O&R engine & an electric power head are the only handheld versions.
 
This is how I acquired the Tarpen O&R, it was in this Keil Kraft boat.

 
When I told the previous owner I was interested in O&R tools he said he still had some of the parts that were removed to put it in the boat, he originally bought it from a surplus shop (which had two of them) in the 1970's.
 
The only part it needs is a replacement clutch bearing assembly, if you have a look at the propshaft coupling you'll see the bronze bearing got brazed together along with part of the clutch. I'm also not 100% sure the clutch shoe assembly I fitted is correct but that was all I had.
 
David

No 2 Tiny Tiger now has an exhaust, many thanks to David (factory)
 
 

Latest O&R/Tarpen addition arrived today courtesy of David (factory) 
 
This Tarpen Mini engine has been fitted with the chainsaw, and is seen here with another unit I have with the long hedge cutter fitted.
 
 

That's the second O&R pump Cnew has that's missing the pump section, I don't think mine has an intact impeller either, being made of rubber they dry out & crack up with age, as well as fail if run dry. I do have at least one pump with a good impeller here somewhere.
 
The handle is attached on the other side of mine, it's also one of the few older engines I have with the Model letter printed on the decal, I had to fit a new set of feet as the originals were falling apart;


 
David

That's the second O&R pump Cnew has that's missing the pump section, I don't think mine has an intact impeller either, being made of rubber they dry out & crack up with age, as well as fail if run dry. I do have at least one pump with a good impeller here somewhere.
 
The handle is attached on the other side of mine, it's also one of the few older engines I have with the Model letter printed on the decal, I had to fit a new set of feet as the originals were falling apart;


 
David

Well I think I've found why that O&R double diaphragm pump assembly isn't seen, it's part no. #400016 which is shown on some parts list dating from Jan 1970.

 
It looks to have been quietly dropped from use, as the master price list supplement from Apr 1971 says to use part no. #400175 (no description of the part), but I found a picture of this part I saved from the web and surprise surprise it's a standard diaphragm pump assembly.

 
David

I found this stray on ebay and got it running and cutting again.  I didn't have much hope for the bar and chain, but I tried soaking it in vinegar for 48 hrs. and was very happy with the results.  Here are a couple of pics of the new addition.




I'd like to paint the right side cover like the other parts, but have to figure out a way to save the decals.  I also need to make or buy the exhaust extension to mount the muffler.  It's very loud without it,  to say the least!

Here is how I made the join for the wiring in my TT, demonstrated with wire from a scrap wiring loom, the technique used for the wire loops dates back a very long time, I first saw it used in a pre-war radio for joining multiple wires & components together (before printed circuit boards existed).
 
The wires before & after tinning with fresh tin/lead solder (note: do not tin wires if using crimp or wire-nut connections).

 
To make the loops I use standard tinned copper wire (aka fuse wire), I have a few different wire gauges for joining different thickness cables, choose a drill bit or something else that is a bit larger than the cables to be joined, wrap a few turns of the tinned copper wire around & cut to length.

 
I've shown a couple of sizes I made and if you leave a length a wire as shown they can be used in other things for extending component leads. Slide the loop over the tinned wires to be joined (for a continuous length of wire slide the sleeving on before soldering).

 
The whole lot soldered together with tin/lead solder and here are some finished joins ready for sleeving.

 
Hopefully this will be useful to others.
 
David