I'm a long way from your ability, but as soon as it dries our I will be practicing some more. Setting the plow up has been tricky for me and I suppose others as well.
You might as well incorporate as a museum for tax purposes, at this point you probably have more Horticultural history than many museums. Very nice collection
Rears will stay silver. Not decided on the fronts.
My earlier post about larger rear tyres was a bit in error, as it looks like you are using a 8" bolt on rim on the front. Most of my upgrades I went to a 10" rim and therefore needed to use taller rear tyres. Your set up looks great! BTW, the C-125 originally had white rims all the way around, but silver would be good too.
I've done this upgrade on at least 4 different big GTs, but I was able to source the trailer hubs in 3/4" on tractors that I had that came with 3/4" spindles, but some of my large GTs already had 1" spindles. For steering ease, durability, and looks it is well worth the 50 quid. I also went with a 25"-30" tall rear tyre to keep it level. Doing the front wheel/tyre upgrade it makes the front tyre 19-21 inches tall and often the design of the front axle makes the front of the tractor taller using the stock 23" tall rear tyres
That ground looks quite hard, Alain. How deep are you wanting to plough?
Hard as stone. Its had cow or buffaloes on it for a millennium. About 8 inches is all I need to plant hemp. The plant material will rot into the topsoil providing a good amount of nutrients where its needed, on the top 6 inches
I did a short test run and did not lower the plough completely, but the 3 bottom plough moved through centuries old grazing land like it was pulling a small wagon at depth of just over 6-7 inches. I chose not to use coulters as even with short grass it tends to clog the ploughs. Tomorrow I will stake out a 10 acre plot with flags and wait for a good day to put steel to earth. The David Brown 990 6 speed live drive is just a wonderful joy to drive and each day I'm getting more proficient in her operation.
Primer is sprayed. Aerosol cans. Top coat brush painted. The primer dries pretty quick. It's the top coat that's taking the time. Dry now.
You can use VM&P Naphtha to help try time, its a little hotter than regular paint thinner, but with oils based paints they get harder when thinned and dry quicker
Found a complete set of seals this morning, so they were fitted. A bit dubious of the input shaft one, but when the trans' is mated with the chassis, I'll fill the trans' with hydraulic oil. Turning over for a while will show if the seals are sealing.
Apart for a bit scraping and wire brushing of chassis and some bits, that's all up to press.
Oh! And no photo's.
reminds me of radio, you have to use your imagination, that's good
Replacement engines were grey for some types of equipment and blue for others. There were manufactures of equipment like Panzer and others that used blue as the colour of their machines and in those cases the engine was painted the same colour blue as the equipment by the manufacturer. Wheel Horse used red as the colour of their engines until the very late 1970's, the twins were the first to go black, but soon after the single cylinders also were either paint black by wheel horse or came that way. Ford blue and Pontiac blue are both lighter than the blue Kohler used on mostly service engines. Most kohler generator sets, welders and other service equipment came with Kohler blue engines, when replacement engines were ordered they were sent in grey colour for engines that were painted by the OEM manufacturer and Blue for engines originally supplied as blue. BTW, replacement engines were designated as such on the serial number and generally did not carry the same spec number as the original engine, but rather one that was compatible from current stock. This is how you determine if your engine is original. Hope this helps.
Haha I'm confused but don't worry I'm sure no apologies necessary 😊
I hadn't noticed to be honest good spot!
Yeah I will be rebuilding the 14hp at some point but am very happy to have the 16hp for it. In a perfect world I would have a c161 or c160 but I refuse to sticker it up as c161 when the plate says c141.
Again I screwed up. I referred to your tractor as a C-121 in my original post and then referred to my mistake as calling it the correct C-141 model in my apology. I can see how you could be confused, lol. A chap after my own heart. I like and respect how you feel.
It does yeah it came with the 14hp that's broke its rod and the 8 speed manual. Its getting a 16hp kohler when done and dusted
My apologies for referring to your tractor as a C-141, but my info still holds true. I thought your tractor was a C-121, maybe that was another recent post from someone else. Did you notice the serial number was over stamped on the second digit? The 16hp Kohler is a beast. While the 16-18 hp magnum twins a powerful, smooth, and quiet. I honestly don't believe they have more torque than the K341. I know they aren't nearly as reliable, durable, or inexpensive to rebuild.
Thanks so much for that it's going to be REALLY helpful!
Unfortunately I looking at the diagram looks like if I remove the bolt it should just slide out but it doesn't. I have sprayed dismantling oil and the tube slides freely on the shaft but just won't budge. I'm scared of breaking something trying to knock it through from the right.
I believe I'm working on a 79
The 2 bloody brake shoe bolts have snapped too, need some extractors.
It's a 1979 C-141, should have had a 14 hp Kohler k321 in it originally. Looks Belgium made
The C-121 was a newer (1978-1979) version of the C-120 (1975-1977), Wheel Horse and Toro often just used an addendums to the older parts and service manuals for newer models. There may be a C-121 Part/IPL manual out there on PartsTree, but it is probably just an updated microfiche file from Toro. You can use the C-120 parts and service manuals for the C-121 and consult the addendums for differences. The C-121 was made 2 years and in 8 speed and Hydrostatic drive models 1978 C-121 8 speed was model 81-12K801 Hydro was model 81-12KS01. The 1979 C-121 8 speed was model 91-12K801 and the Hydro was model 91-12KS01. There are 4 or 5 addendum's for the later model C-121 so for changes made in newer models and others for Belgium made models. I have attached the addendums here and the service manual. The way to read model numbers form 1976 to 1980 Wheel Horse Tractors is the first number is the year, not sure what the second number means, the next two numbers are the horsepower, the letter stands for the engine brand, K= Kohler, B= Briggs, etc. The next number was was 8 for a 8 speed, and 6 for a 6 six speed or S for a Sundstrand Hydro. Model 91-12K801 was a 1979 12 hp kohler powered 8 speed Model 81-12K801 was a 1978 12 hp kohler powered 8 speed and Model 81-12KS01 and 91-12KS01 were 1978 and 1979 hydrostatic units
Weekend ploughing
in Ride On's
Posted
I'm a long way from your ability, but as soon as it dries our I will be practicing some more. Setting the plow up has been tricky for me and I suppose others as well.