Oh trust me gents, I need a translator for my uneducated American brothers. Many can't spell or speak American English. I might be able to learn another language easier than understand the different dialects in the UK. I'm on the David Brown Tractor Facebook group and many members from Ireland and Scotland as well as many different local dialects. In all fairness I believe this last post was one of the very few that I didn't spell tire with a Y, but no way I can write in local UK dialects, and I realize you may not understand my posts in their entirety, but at least I produce complete words and sentences with better than average grammar (American). That is not common on the interwebs these days or in public for that matter.
I wonder what would happen if you reported your findings to E-bay? Or maybe even the police fraud squad?
I did report my findings to eBay, they said there was nothing against their rules for businesses of having multiple names. While on your side of the pond you may have policemen actually working fraud and theft, its not like that here. Most thefts are handled by police telling the victims to turn in the theft or scam into their insurance company. They wont even write a report anymore unless its someone important.
If you've seen my latest video you will see about 10 complete news sets of tires on my various tractors that I have purchased in the last 1-4 years, I have another 10 with all new tires on them as well. Many of the rear tires were 200 a set (times that by 20), Almost all of these were purchased on eBay, but it came with another price.
As time went by more and more tire sellers were just plain and simple con men, right now I wouldn't buy a tire or tube on eBay for anything. My last attempt was the worst. All I wanted was a set of 5.30-12 trailer tires. I bought the tires on the 3rd of July, delivery was supposed by on the 9th (later changed to the 11th. On the 18th the tires had never moved from their original arrival at a FedEX drop off (later found the notification was a scam too). Neither I nor eBay could get the seller to respond or refund my money. It took eBay 10 days after my request for a refund to issue that refund in order to be fair to the seller (thief).
I left the worst feedback I have ever left for any seller and that's when I found out how the big tire scam works. I saw another set for a similar price and when I hit buy it now, I was unable to bid, the buyer had blocked me. This was NOT the same name of seller that I had done business with earlier, or so I thought. I did the same thing, tried to buy it now on another seller, same thing happened two more times. I had the scammer figured out. Apparently this same seller has dozens of names on eBay and when I left negative feedback he banned me from bidding on any of his names. Wow, that was great news for me anyway. eBay has to know that this seller has multiple names and I'm sure the number of positive reviews are false or fake. eBay is complicit with thieves, because they make money from them.
So I decided to buy locally even if it was more. I made four calls to local tire dealers and found a set ten miles from my house mounted and balanced for 10.00 less than anything on eBay or Amazon. BTW, one of my biggest issues with tire sellers is the banding or squishing of the tires for shipping. You can almost never get the tires to seal unless you use a tube, kind of defeats the purpose of a tubeless tire.
I initially measured the shaft where the seal rides and it was 0.36. I found a U-cup seal that had an ID of 0.31 and OD of 1/2 and tried it and it’s extrmely tight because it gets additional compression when the shaft passes through. I was able to turn the shaft with it in place but it definitely has a lot of friction and takes some effort. I was also thinking that maybe it would loosen over time and after running the engine a bit. I’m really tempted to finish installing one on a spare test engine to see if it will work.
This morning I was poking around again hunting for seals and found a listing that referenced a metric U-cup seal that was 9mm ID x 13mm OD. Unfortunately I haven’t found a source that actually carries them yet. I think this could be a really close possibility if I can actually find a source.
Clint
Try putting the seals in the freezer for an hour before installation
Posted
·
Edited by factory Added quote from Orline Mark II chainsaw thread.
On 7/16/2019 at 1:33 AM, CNew said:
HeadExam,
One of the seals that is hard to find is the induction shaft seal. The dimensions I get from a micrometer are 0.36” ID x 0.5” OD x 0.094 cross section and it’s a pretty simply U-cup shape.
Clint
Sorry, but 5/8" and .625 ID are the smallest seals I have cross referenced. I'll try and find smaller seals
I still have 3 saws in the mail, will arrive soon, I'm near close to 50 saws in just over two years. All these are auto oiler direct drive models with manual override made between 1965 and 1985.
Thank you for the insights. That’s kind of what I was afraid of. I’ll have to look into the leak tester you referenced. Is that the same thing as the Mityvac 8500?
You also have me curious regarding replacement seals. I’ve recently been hunting and trialing various seal options for the Compact engines. Have you ever looked into shaft seal alternatives for the 13A and 13B engines? I found a source that had some small U-cup seals that were very close but not quite right. I’m still trying to determine if I can get them to work.
Clint
If you can use a micrometer and give me the sizes of the seals and type/number of lips, I may be able to cross reference it to a stock seal.
I attempted to tune up the Mark II this afternoon with no success. After rebuilding the carb and resetting the H, L and Idle settings per the manual I thought it would fire up and at least idle for a bit. No such luck. All it does is fire and run for maybe 1-2 seconds. I also put in a brand new spark plug. So at this point I can’t keep it running long enough to do any tuning.
Anyone have any thoughts on what might be going on? Given the condition of the saw I was hoping all the critical seals were still in ok enough shape but maybe they’re not and it’s getting air leakage or something. I was surprised when I opened up the carb that the original gaskets and diaphragms were still in good shape and pliable. The reed valves also looked nice and clean and flat so I’m thinking that part is also ok.
You may have an air leak in the crankshaft seals, common issue on these old saws and why many get tossed, no seals available for many of these old saws. Air leaks in the carb or crank seals are often the cause of this issue. You can use a leak tester like the mity mite 8500 to determine whether you have a leak in the carb, by blocking the intake off with a plate and also making a plate with a stem to test crankcase pressure. I have diagrams on these testing plates if you need them. I also have a large database for new replacement seals by size and cross referenced to new part numbers.
Hastings has a very good site for reference. I appreciate the tip.
bonnie
I have the wisconsin manuals and part numbers, don't think the TRA-12D and S12D are the same, but it could be. I'll post the part numbers for the S12D. The company that sell wisconsin parts is called Teledyne
The piston is part number DB-231, it is available (supposedly) in .010 and .030 oversize. The ring set (3 rings) is part number DR-58, supposedly available in .010, .020, and .030 over size. The top compression ring is part number DC-340. The 2nd scraper ring is part number DC-339. The 3rd oil ring (bottom) is part number DC-338. The piston pin is part number DE-79
Using modern 2 stroke oil you can safely run them at 40:1 or even 50:1. I use Amsoil Saber at 50:1 in old saws(1965-1975) and 100:1 in my new big Husqvarna strimmer for the last year or so. Amcoil maybe the best two stroke oil out there. Very nice shape.
There are a lot of unusual variants of chainsaw, none of which turn up very often, together with a couple of variants from the magazine adverts (in the sticky thread) which I have yet to see a surviving example for sale (the Calif. Power Line Products Inc. chainsaw for example).
Thinking about it, the original switch may have been damaged and as it's not an off the shelf part, they may have replaced it with the toggle switch.
David
Being from the USA I agree it may have been built for a large retailer like Montgomery Wards, JCPenney, Sears, or any number of other retailers. Often times these variants were spec'd differently for overseas markets
Someone has indeed put an electronic chip in it (Nova 2 ?) they are notorious for lasting for as little as 5 minutes to several weeks. Remove it and replace with points and condenser. I have the timing specs if you need them
That is exactly what was infesting the tree and had been for several (many) years, but down at the base their were large holes where insects were attacking the base and hollows at several different places made me concerned about the stability of the tree. after it was cut it wasn't near as bad as I thought but the tree was diseased nonetheless. Thanks for the link, very interesting.
money, so they're tires, lol
Newest eBay rant, Don't buy tires on eBay
in Off-Topic Discussion
Posted
Oh trust me gents, I need a translator for my uneducated American brothers. Many can't spell or speak American English. I might be able to learn another language easier than understand the different dialects in the UK. I'm on the David Brown Tractor Facebook group and many members from Ireland and Scotland as well as many different local dialects. In all fairness I believe this last post was one of the very few that I didn't spell tire with a Y, but no way I can write in local UK dialects, and I realize you may not understand my posts in their entirety, but at least I produce complete words and sentences with better than average grammar (American). That is not common on the interwebs these days or in public for that matter.