Wallfish

The 2 small posts are already 12v DC. They were mostly used to run the 12v electric starters for RC stuff but it should also work to charge 12v batteries as well. Manual here file:///C:/Users/urema/OneDrive/Desktop/Tiny%20Tiger%20Generator%20Operating%20Instructions%20Models%205001-1%20&%205001-2.pdf Those small mufflers can be stacked but finding them at a reasonable cost may be difficult. Lots go missing because people take them off and don't put them back so everyone is always looking for mufflers and air cleaners.

Yours is a model 350? Like pictured above? That style is quieter than a 300 is. The 300 just used the common little black mufflers/spark arrester. Are you using that for camping or something? Like the outboards do, if you run a metal hose from it into a bucket of water all you will hear is water bubbling so maybe you could experiment with that????

The Tiny Tiger model 350 used a different style muffler. Or search on epay for 2 stroke muffler and maybe adapt one.

How many is she up to now?

That's a nice find. Cool little generators It's either a Dyna-Mite or a Life sav r

Nice, let me know if you need that one I PMed you about. I have diaphragms too.

Found a housing and a needle ( #21, 25 ) but not the little parts, washer, o ring or spring ( 22, 23, 24 ). You can get those at any good hardware store or find something online Did you ever open the carb to make sure the other parts are there? Someone lost the valve so you should check EVERYTHING to make sure you don't need anything else. You can do everything else on your engine like cleaning the points if it doesn't have spark now, fix the recoil (DO NOT DRILL OUT THE RIVET), etc etc. Fire it up with a squirt of 32:1 mixed fuel to verify it's a running engine. And you can also check the generator when it fires off too. If it doesn't run or generate power, does taking my last valve make sense? Your welcome to it if you need it!

You need the gasket, the plastic check valve, the complete needle valve. Probably a diaphragm Have you opened up the cover to see if any other parts are missing in there? Arm, spring, bearing ball? I'll take a look around to see if I have a complete valve,

Are you referring to the actual needle valve? Some of the older engines had a smaller needle valve on the side of the carb and a screw which holds the diaphragm assembly to the lower carb body. Newer models have the the needle holding the diaphragm assembly to the carb body. Maybe a pic would help determine what carb you have and what you're missing.

I'll poke around for one those today. Do you already have a new carb diaphragm to install?

The springs can go in and out so they just need to be set back in place as long as they aren't broken. I don't remember ever seeing a distinct clutch assembly drawing but there may be one on here somewhere, I just couldn't find one. There are a couple of different clutch setups so not knowing exactly what you are working with makes any details or advice difficult. How about posting a picture of it?

Think I can find a spare. Where are from? Do not use a wrench to tighten them and they don't need to be very tight either.

The wire should go to a kill switch button on the handle to shut down the engine by grounding the coil. Location of the switch depends on the model. One port is an air vent. It goes from the bottom of the tank to just inside of the fuel cap. The other port is the fuel feed to the carb. More than likely it will need a new carb diaphragm to run or run correctly. Check the air filter BEFORE trying to start it. If it has that old crusty material inside, it will need to be thoroughly cleaned out. Otherwise it will be sucked into the engine. Not good. If you use the search feature you can find other threads on the Drillgine drills. Here's a link to the search results for "Drillgine" in topics only. There are threads on the early reds and later yellows https://myoldmachine.com/search/?q=drillgine&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Re use them if possible. I've reused many without issue if they were not damaged If they were damaged, search "High Temp gasket material" to cut your own. The O ring isn't anything special and can be found with a search for that size as well

@factory David may be able to help you out as he's from UK, but he hasn't been as active on here recently.

It's not very common for one of these coils to fail, except the early models had a smaller tension plug wire that could more easily get damaged. I'm assuming your engine does not have spark. Have you cleaned the point contacts under the flywheel? If you parts are not damaged you may not need parts.

RPM at full throttle is 6300 So yeah, they scream a little bit Governor is never "guaranteed" but they seem to work very well. I've never had one fail while the engine is running. It's controlled by the spring on the bottom of the carb. No adjustments are available on those older versions. Newer ones have a lever that can adjust tension on the spring Diaphragm should be soft and pliable for best results. Wrinkles indicate it's probably old and stiff.

I'm fairly certain this would be the correct gearbox for one of those cars. You can see more details of it in this thread. The first engine and gearbox of the few engines rebuilt in early 2024

VERY NICE FIND!!!!!!!!!! I would love to get one of those and tried before to import one to the US. An engine would be the easy part to find so you're all set there but the correct gearbox MAY be required. The direction of the shaft spin and the rpm is what changes between the gearboxes. The drill gearbox will give you the correct direction of the shaft and probably the correct rpm because it does utilize 3 gears inside of it. The only questionable thing would be the way the gearbox mounts because the gear case itself is specific to the drills. You will need to adapt and make something for mounting it and also adapt a way to add the pulley/sheave. I would make that adapter for mounting some sort of bolt on type of thing vs making something permanent so it could always be switched back to use the original type correct gearbox. With something that rare, originality might be best just to keep the value of it. Please share pics as you go along if you can. They are very interesting pieces of history

I do remember someone posted one that could switch back and forth from gas to electric but I cannot seem to find it now. It could've been way back on the old forum before we switched to here. Lots of that info was lost

The original Aquabug gas tanks are fairly hard to come by. The cap has a little fold-able vent and when it's left closed the tank is sealed tight, then change in temperature will cause pressure which expands and contracts the air inside, and that cracks the plastic seems. That's exactly what happened to my first one so I learned to leave that vent open. Pretty sure many of them met their demise the same way when being stored.

OUCH

Personally I think they look better without the plastic cover and with a regular O&R gas tank, so maybe go with that until you can locate the proper tank and cover.

Yes, those older type coils are not a replaceable wire like the newer type coils are. You can repair it with a new wire but you're still soldering and repairing the insulation anyway. By just repairing/replacing the insulation on the old wire, it remains looking original. Plus, I don't know of any plug wire to repair it with.

That guide also explains how to repair the spring. By heating to cherry red then allowing it to cool . It can be bent back into shape without breaking it. Can you please ask question in a new tread or a different thread instead of the this carb tutorial. We need to keep it cleaner and especially so with questions that do not pertain to the carb.