Wallfish

I'll get a piece out to you Yes that's the same but mine is a repop that I built a few years ago. $1500 + is too steep for little collectables. Here's a link of the thread.

The 20A engine is bigger than the Compact engines are but I'm not sure if the size of the fogger part itself is different.

Very Nice Find ! Not very many of those pop up for sale I have one with a 20A engine but not one of those smaller ones.

I have some blue tempered spring sheet metal .003" I can send you. I was making my own springs out of it and found that grinding the center out with a thin cut off wheel worked much better than trying to cut it out. Then cut the outside shape. Just don't grin hard to heat up the metal or it will loose it's spring properties. 50" x 3" can make A LOT of springs.

Surprising that would break a spring. I pulled that one from one of my good carbs. I'd need to look around for another one if I even have one. . A while back I was making my own out of spring material sheet because they are pretty scarce now.

It's on it's way

It's a check valve. Make sure you can blow through it in one direction (Flow direction). It may be clogged up from old 2 stroke oil. If it's clogged you can leave it off

I don't remember ever hearing of a Ranger. It's basically the same thing as a Mustang saw except for the chain guard is a little different. We see those minor changes on lots of different tools that have different brand names but are basically the same thing. The recoil/blower housing is a factory replacement. That tan color paint without a label was what the factory sent out. I have a Chip-A-Saw like that one and also another one that looks completely different. Looks like this

Replied to your PM Can you post any pics of your saw?

3/32" fuel line = 2.3 mm so 2mm will work

That thing looks to be a great condition. The diaphragm in the carb will need to be changed. When they get stiff it won't prime or pump fuel. And clean the carb. You can follow the pinned carb tutorial. Shoot me a PM for a diaphragm. Check for spark. If no spark you will need to remove the flywheel then the points cover to clean the contacts on the points. Obviously clean the tank too Yes that's the engine shut down

I can help you with a carb diaphragm. Most exhaust gaskets can just be re-used unless they were damaged during disassembly. I can probably find a used set of gaskets

Back in the day it was Japan stealing the IP and now it's China stealing the IP. I'm sure there are also USA companies that did/do the same

That information kinda mirrors the O&R engines Screw from the back early engines Screw on from the front middle year engines Then the screw on starters about 1970

Took a look around and have some spare tools I'd consider letting go of. I also found a bar and chain that would fit that Ford saw if you haven't found one. C/Saw Circular saw Hedge Trimmer Amp Champ generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Tiny Tiger 300 generator (Completely rebuilt engine) Snow Blower (Completely rebuilt engine and gear box) ? Aquabug Outboard ? Chicken Power bicycle engine

If you need something I'd search through and see if I have it. I have a bunch of used parts and laser cut diaphragms but it would be too much work to go through it all and make a list just for window shopping. Probably have some doubles of some tools I'd consider letting go. Circular saw, Amp Champ generator, Tiny Tiger generator.

Spares of what? Just miscellaneous Parts? Or whole O&R tools?

Not that large one pictured. The smaller discs should be attached to the diaphragms. I use a product called "Seal-All" because it stands up to gas.

Those cylinder cooling fins and the air cleaners are some of the most common missing parts so your best bet is to keep an eye out on ebay as they do pop up every once in a while. Search "Orline chainsaw" for the other parts too. Chain and throttle cable. The FORD saw is just a branded Orline saw so the parts are the same, just a different color You will also need a new carb diaphragm too. If you choose to do it, the crank seals can be somewhat rejuvenated by soaking them in place with a few drops of old school brake DOT3 brake fluid. Synthetic will not work. Carb cleaner spray can work too but not as well plus it washes off the lubrication oils so it'll start dry unless you oil them afterwards and before starting it.

Thumb and fingers.

wind the spring and keep pulling on the tail to cinch it tighter and smaller. Repeat, repeat, repeat until it's wound tight and will fit in the holder.

Hold the spring down with your thumb at the holder opening and pic out the holder with something sharp. Release the thumb pressure slowly so the spring unwinds slowly

Maybe it's ground a negative wire to the case and the positive post ??? 2 posts are 12v. Do you have a multi meter if it's not in the manual how to achieve the 6v? I breezed through it but didn't see anything. Wish @factory David was still active. He always seemed to have the answers for stuff like this.

I think you would need to remove or disconnect one of the diodes. But I'm not sure. Check in the manual I just posted the link of above Did you receive those diaphragms yet?

? I don't remember ever seeing 6v. Can you post a pic of it? Tiny Tiger Generator Operating Instructions Models 5001-1 & 5001-2.pdf