Wallfish

UY-6 are the older 10mm plugs but there are cross references to other manufacturer's plugs. Same for the others Overwhelming majority of mine still have the original Champion plugs in them and fire fine.

I'm guessing it sat to close to a fire or something. If it shorted and started melting that would stop very quickly because it's doubtful it could still be sending spark to the plug to keep it running. No running equals no electricity going through it. Although there's always a first time. Remove the flywheel and check the points under the cover. I'd assume those would also burn if the coil melted from the electricity running through it. There isn't much involved there to effect the new coil so I wouldn't be concerned at all about that. Yes, I'd be willing to send you parts. But, like you stated, shipping multiple packages isn't the best way so I'd suggest you dis-assemble that entire thing until we figure out exactly what all the parts are you need

It would be nice to know where you're located as that can help with who can help you the best if any. Assuming Australia so shipping parts comes into play. Yes a Tecumseh coil can work but we can find you an O&R coil. Here's one that will fit. It's a newer style than the one on there but the older ones are much more difficult find https://www.ebay.com/itm/353723170945?hash=item525b8b4081:g:xewAAOSwpIVhZ4q5 Good blower housing/starter covers are hard to find too as everybody screws them up by drilling out the rivot because they can't figure out how to get the spool out. Sometimes they show up on epay as well. You will need a new carb diaphragm as well. I have carb diaphragms and probably a coil if they don't want to ship overseas. Might be able to find a starter too but I keep the good ones for my own collection. Missing electric plug https://www.ebay.com/itm/353352371490?epid=1312131769&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5245714d22:g:HcYAAOSwCdhf~wTN&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSd0ReTLyM7cxPnI6zs468EPQxa2soXkWJ%2B%2Ft4ICXEn0k%2B3NnkmWnB8y%2BbCXR%2BflIKVjFntJbCOD%2Fnxv%2B9ut4O3XHfjL%2FenIa%2FRvCAtMhxwvAKn%2B%2FQDYL9KXneOPMBzND%2FLi6lqzpLoQc4vtO1JUH0W1I9Aad2EIxuVuAcjay%2Bh9TaFshj2VyDLuqN5lcOJTBYyQ%2FfZ0JR6VdJdhZLymlc%2Bc0h%2FZbFIETfk3y0HG%2BB%2B9QVkJcl6o6WBsunDQB%2FW9cjufiVpDh3RMQ807MAumdM1bn9EVuFUlPu8Ozk3iEwAlvgI2ieUxquKwUfazUtXHzPQ4IZs6v8BIGIqTARBbcqjtxWJVXA3gVzJk28irMnPL0VuI5zM0yirMg6IISILKcHBRGckukDHP9YqhAc1vR3dVKn9x%2B5RHkb%2BXM74%2B%2BXrsITavB00JUPXdT7EJSToWk1R%2B5TbB2AHWeHjoHLKschwYLA%2FP0GTjWtrPD5bfbVeqNX9M4yjYkeE44RqIiftS2%2FW4ChR5AG4wxkbfyrh1vNhGRPTxIdGf1dfmixfPhR2zvzD0ygMmkg3MnfkqAo7j3Oh2WP9TXjMCa1%2FwLWnhYR%2FrM2WBppZlrdaEdgkYVTOvbdNYvTAB%2FsRqm2DMl%2BJ0HLmRGXWLcmc4kUHfy3yf6UHaupAUF%2FYHPMgKuNSIdEFLd4yn3rNdWe4nQpTyV6UOeX35KRq%2Fx5C26SB897LHWWuIzdGtc4ZJlTgiG1%2FUibZJq8R5Ed0QX6zGSZ%2FZBWckY65%2FIqT3ZunV3rQyKzYXK%2Bu%2B6nRIsEKei%2FnA4FvFYBjQhSs%2FUqzDN9mou3P9g6CzhfgU7R2d%2B068IEwPvyxtBe7A%3D%3D|clp%3A2334524|tkp%3ABFBM5PuWotlf

Not too bad, about 8" or so.

The blower housing cover when installed will keep the vane from coming out of the carb. I've never had one come apart while running

Some of mine in action. Post'm up if you have any in action!

There's a set of points under the flywheel which most likely need the contact surfaces cleaned. Pull the flywheel off and have a look or post a pic. Here's a 140 manual. I'm interested in it if you can't get it running and want to sell Cox 140 Owners Manual.pdf

PITA isn't it? We need to deal with snow all the time here in New England so the roads get cleared fairly quick. Areas that don't deal with it often can get shut down with a just a little. But either way there are always idiots that believe it's a good idea to go out on the roads with bald tires!

2 of those connections are vents. This allows fuel to fill up into the "hump" on the opposite side of the fill cap. No vent and it would just stay as a bubble of air. The 3rd is the fuel pick up You can verify which connection is the fuel pick up by having a little fuel in the tank and blowing air into the connection. The only one that bubbles the fuel is the fuel pick up. Fuel pick up to carb. Fuel line connection from one vent to the other A manual can be found here. Scroll down to Section4. It's near the bottom of that section

For once, the seller was right about something being rare ! LoL I don't really search for stuff that often anymore but wish I saw that one.

Did ya get it? That went real cheap. Looks like it would easily convert to an O&R powered winch

I may have a set somewhere. Are yours missing or broken? I've repaired broken springs by soldering in a new piece of metal for the springs. Your location would be helpful as well. European members may find it easier and less expensive to find a junk Mustang chainsaw for parts. What tool/engine are you working on? A Chug A Saw?

Always better to err towards more oil. With that being said and modern oil much better than that old stuff was, I run mine on 32:1 with a quality oil. Non ethanol is always better but they'll run fine on the corny crap too.

Very nice find The original suitcase would be more of a Holy Grail find than the bike itself Never saw one painted before, just chrome but you should be able to tell if it was done with a spray can or possibly a professional factory job The exact light lens replacement might be difficult as well, but you can find those those retro style bicycle generator lights on epay Parts availability is next to nil except for the engine parts. I couldn't find one so had to build one

Hope you're feeling better

The bigger 20A engines aren't necessarily my thing but you should have a nice snapping blue spark. A weak orange spark may jump the plug gap out of the engine but maybe not under compression. Even with bad crank seals it should still pop. Just thinking out loud Timing is accomplished by the key in the flywheel so maybe verify the key maybe another condenser Cj6 plug sounds right but I'm not 100% sure. I can check an engine to see what's in it Cranks seals can swelled with DOT3 brake fluid or spray carb cleaner 20A engines have a compression release for starting

It would be helpful to know what the plan for it is first. A screw can go in the hole where a throttle cable goes through and be used to adjust high RPM. Screw it in to slow it down to a constant speed

That same guy on ebay makes those too. They used to be listed

How about checking these out for an impeller?

Alright. Just couldn't take not being sure any more so had to make 100% sure I'm not imagining the change of that pump impeller done years ago. Went out to open it up and verify. Yup, it's a new undamaged still pliable perfect fit impeller. Think I got it out of an old drill type pump but that pump had a metal body like the Comet pump does. As far as I can remember anyway. Believe I may have used the metal cover off that drill pump too but now that's really stretching the memory gland! LoL Those type of metal body pumps don't seem to be available anymore but there's GOT to be some still out there somewhere. Unfortunately there are no part numbers or markings on the impeller at all. My eyes are now crap too but looked it over thoroughly with a magnifier.

Years ago I remember replacing one. ( I think) Sucks get'n old cause I can't remember crap now! What about searching any of those drill powered pumps which look to be about the same size? Think that's what I used but it's certainly possible it was modified to fit too.

That's a first seeing a crankshaft broken like that. Here in the States it would just make sense to replace the whole engine. Probably not as plentiful in Germany so we'll have to get you something. If David @factory has a short block or a crankshaft plus the induction gaskets, that would be easiest way. That rod bearing could be toast as well. I can find something too but shipping to Germany might be expensive. Drillgines are a PITA to disassemble and assemble. There's always something blocking access to the fasteners Primerless caps were on early engines too. Have had a couple on circular saws I think but also on later items like the chicken power engines, The fuel tank was mounted higher than the carb so it didn't require priming.

I found some.

Found an old gov flag with the rod. Flag is messed up and loose but the one you have should work.

They sure are smaller than some of the other stuff. I do wheel Horse tractors which you won't really see much of that far west. Don't know who holds the record, might be me but @CNew Clint was making a big run at his collection. I don't know exactly how many are out there but maybe 60-70 tools I'm guessing, plus spare engines and parts etc. Flywheel, starter dogs, complete carb with gaskets and check valve, I might have an air cleaner too but always hate to part with those as it's by far the most common part missing and therefore the most sought after too. I'll include some diaphragms too. I sold a bunch of the doubles. Some to Clint and some just out right but might still have a circular saw and or a chainsaw or 2. I got an extra Power pole snow thrower too.