Wallfish

That's a first seeing a crankshaft broken like that. Here in the States it would just make sense to replace the whole engine. Probably not as plentiful in Germany so we'll have to get you something. If David @factory has a short block or a crankshaft plus the induction gaskets, that would be easiest way. That rod bearing could be toast as well. I can find something too but shipping to Germany might be expensive. Drillgines are a PITA to disassemble and assemble. There's always something blocking access to the fasteners Primerless caps were on early engines too. Have had a couple on circular saws I think but also on later items like the chicken power engines, The fuel tank was mounted higher than the carb so it didn't require priming.

I found some.

Found an old gov flag with the rod. Flag is messed up and loose but the one you have should work.

They sure are smaller than some of the other stuff. I do wheel Horse tractors which you won't really see much of that far west. Don't know who holds the record, might be me but @CNew Clint was making a big run at his collection. I don't know exactly how many are out there but maybe 60-70 tools I'm guessing, plus spare engines and parts etc. Flywheel, starter dogs, complete carb with gaskets and check valve, I might have an air cleaner too but always hate to part with those as it's by far the most common part missing and therefore the most sought after too. I'll include some diaphragms too. I sold a bunch of the doubles. Some to Clint and some just out right but might still have a circular saw and or a chainsaw or 2. I got an extra Power pole snow thrower too.

I should have the parts. Though I'm not part number or serial number savy like David is. Is the flywheel key still in the crank shaft? Is the end of the crank shaft good? Threads for the flywheel nut. Open up the points cover and make sure they are there too. The only thing I might not have is those orange carb gaskets. Clint @CNew might have a bunch. ( I should've scavenged some from that pile of parts from Neons LOL) I see we got you hooked on the O&R stuff since you already added another tool! LoL

What about searching small outboard water pump impellers?

Spill the beans! Whatchya scheming up?

It's an early one.

Found an older style carb body. Couldn't find an older style flag but I believe a new style would work anyway. Let me know if you're interested

Trim it. Belt sander maybe? I'll find a vein and get some pics with measurements if you want to try and make one

That's a newer style carb. They changed to the rubber stopper type arm on the end of the arm instead of the older ball bearing check valve type. Replacement arms for that type are difficult to find. Also, someone drilled out the original primer button which was on top of the cover for some reason ??? When the fuel just moves back and forth it's because the check valve which is a One Way valve (rubber) is not sealing. It may be best or easiest to swap that entire diaphragm part with another style with the ball bearing valve. It will bolt right on as they are the same. Maybe a small remote control inline check valve will also work but it must be designed for fuel

I'll see what I have for parts for ya. Carb body governor vein Anything else?

Yes, a newer type carb will bolt right on. Maybe post some pics of your carb and how you have the governor set up. Carb should have a spring on the bottom of the butterfly shaft. The governor vein flag should be tight on the shaft. That shaft of the governor vein goes directly into the top of the butterfly shaft on the top of the carb.

The governor vein goes directly to the carb. No linkage. That older type engine probably has the vein type which is a flag on a black thin rod with a flat end. It just looks like a little flag. That flat end of the rod slides through the plate hole and goes directly into the slot on the butterfly of the carb. The flag end sits at the flywheel and the blower housing will keep it from disengaging with the carb. Basically the wind from the flywheel will push on the flag and rotate the rod which closes the butterfly. The screw is used for the low idle position but your engine does not have a throttle control. It's set up to run full throttle at 6300 rpm no load so it won't be touching the screw in most circumstances.

Most likely you will need to disassemble the carb and clean the little ball that's under the spring. Follow the tutorial and and you'll be fine. With a clean piece of fuel line connected to it, blow into it and air should only pass when you push the primer button. You should not be able to suck air out anytime.

John It's been a bit slow on the forum recently. I replied to your PM You can search for manuals here

Took some searching but found this. Might be just what you need to make a handle https://www.grandbrass.com/item/hasb10/

That's a fair price considering the condition of it and it looks complete with baffles etc. Paint isn't bad. It's a later model with the 13B engine and square recoil type starter. No need to be near TN as it shows free shipping too.

I think joe @Webhead has one of those

What number is a waste of time? Yours could be $350 and below while mine is anything over $125. There's a guy on Epay with a circular saw priced at $1000 which is completely ridiculous, but obviously he believes it's made of gold. So one never actually knows where that line is. I don't put much value in a running engine because I can always rebuild it and get it running, while someone else may not have the skills to do that so running is the important thing. Why not just say what you want for it and save everyone's time to begin with since you already know what you don't want to except? Yes it's not very common but it's also not complete. It could be less likely to find those missing parts than it would be to find a complete machine. Maybe ebay is the best way to determine it's value?

I'll pull mine out when I can and get you some dimensions. Not sure if I could bend you one or not but I'll try

? 1/2" EMT conduit Do you have wood working tools to make a tube bender?

Paul has some good detailed pics on pg1. It's an everyday O&R 1/2" shaft. Looking at the pics, it might be a problem to use that chainsaw box unless you're willing to rotate the engine to raise the shaft. Take a good look at it and line it up to see if it works. If you still want the gear it's yours. At least the whole thing didn't break off. Should be an easy fix

Yes There' are pics here on the forum. One is a Warn capstan type winch. I have one called a Bee Jay winch. It uses a cable wire. And the newest type found which seems pretty rare, an Irvington Did it look like one of these? A 1/2" regular O&R straight shaft correct? One side has a flat. I might have one of those around as well. They fit right on the tapered shafts. Long time ago I cut the shaft from a defunct TT generator to make a straight shaft.

Take a look at your gear box and let me know if you want the gear. I can give it a shot first and let you know how it goes and just send the whole thing if it's good. You can keep your gear box to put a tire friction wheel on and make a mini bike with it! The gear teeth on the swap gear are wider than that chainsaw gear teeth are but the inner part of the chainsaw gear is wider than the teeth on it, so the thickness of both gears are the same but constructed different. I also have and old school die cast type gear that would fit a different type of gearbox. The diameter is smaller. I don't know the part numbers like David does to know what fits what so don't know if that can be used to flip a different gear box or not.