Wallfish

I may have a set somewhere. Are yours missing or broken? I've repaired broken springs by soldering in a new piece of metal for the springs. Your location would be helpful as well. European members may find it easier and less expensive to find a junk Mustang chainsaw for parts. What tool/engine are you working on? A Chug A Saw?

Always better to err towards more oil. With that being said and modern oil much better than that old stuff was, I run mine on 32:1 with a quality oil. Non ethanol is always better but they'll run fine on the corny crap too.

Very nice find The original suitcase would be more of a Holy Grail find than the bike itself Never saw one painted before, just chrome but you should be able to tell if it was done with a spray can or possibly a professional factory job The exact light lens replacement might be difficult as well, but you can find those those retro style bicycle generator lights on epay Parts availability is next to nil except for the engine parts. I couldn't find one so had to build one

Hope you're feeling better

The bigger 20A engines aren't necessarily my thing but you should have a nice snapping blue spark. A weak orange spark may jump the plug gap out of the engine but maybe not under compression. Even with bad crank seals it should still pop. Just thinking out loud Timing is accomplished by the key in the flywheel so maybe verify the key maybe another condenser Cj6 plug sounds right but I'm not 100% sure. I can check an engine to see what's in it Cranks seals can swelled with DOT3 brake fluid or spray carb cleaner 20A engines have a compression release for starting

It would be helpful to know what the plan for it is first. A screw can go in the hole where a throttle cable goes through and be used to adjust high RPM. Screw it in to slow it down to a constant speed

That same guy on ebay makes those too. They used to be listed

How about checking these out for an impeller?

Alright. Just couldn't take not being sure any more so had to make 100% sure I'm not imagining the change of that pump impeller done years ago. Went out to open it up and verify. Yup, it's a new undamaged still pliable perfect fit impeller. Think I got it out of an old drill type pump but that pump had a metal body like the Comet pump does. As far as I can remember anyway. Believe I may have used the metal cover off that drill pump too but now that's really stretching the memory gland! LoL Those type of metal body pumps don't seem to be available anymore but there's GOT to be some still out there somewhere. Unfortunately there are no part numbers or markings on the impeller at all. My eyes are now crap too but looked it over thoroughly with a magnifier.

Years ago I remember replacing one. ( I think) Sucks get'n old cause I can't remember crap now! What about searching any of those drill powered pumps which look to be about the same size? Think that's what I used but it's certainly possible it was modified to fit too.

That's a first seeing a crankshaft broken like that. Here in the States it would just make sense to replace the whole engine. Probably not as plentiful in Germany so we'll have to get you something. If David @factory has a short block or a crankshaft plus the induction gaskets, that would be easiest way. That rod bearing could be toast as well. I can find something too but shipping to Germany might be expensive. Drillgines are a PITA to disassemble and assemble. There's always something blocking access to the fasteners Primerless caps were on early engines too. Have had a couple on circular saws I think but also on later items like the chicken power engines, The fuel tank was mounted higher than the carb so it didn't require priming.

I found some.

Found an old gov flag with the rod. Flag is messed up and loose but the one you have should work.

They sure are smaller than some of the other stuff. I do wheel Horse tractors which you won't really see much of that far west. Don't know who holds the record, might be me but @CNew Clint was making a big run at his collection. I don't know exactly how many are out there but maybe 60-70 tools I'm guessing, plus spare engines and parts etc. Flywheel, starter dogs, complete carb with gaskets and check valve, I might have an air cleaner too but always hate to part with those as it's by far the most common part missing and therefore the most sought after too. I'll include some diaphragms too. I sold a bunch of the doubles. Some to Clint and some just out right but might still have a circular saw and or a chainsaw or 2. I got an extra Power pole snow thrower too.

I should have the parts. Though I'm not part number or serial number savy like David is. Is the flywheel key still in the crank shaft? Is the end of the crank shaft good? Threads for the flywheel nut. Open up the points cover and make sure they are there too. The only thing I might not have is those orange carb gaskets. Clint @CNew might have a bunch. ( I should've scavenged some from that pile of parts from Neons LOL) I see we got you hooked on the O&R stuff since you already added another tool! LoL

What about searching small outboard water pump impellers?

Spill the beans! Whatchya scheming up?

It's an early one.

Found an older style carb body. Couldn't find an older style flag but I believe a new style would work anyway. Let me know if you're interested

Trim it. Belt sander maybe? I'll find a vein and get some pics with measurements if you want to try and make one

That's a newer style carb. They changed to the rubber stopper type arm on the end of the arm instead of the older ball bearing check valve type. Replacement arms for that type are difficult to find. Also, someone drilled out the original primer button which was on top of the cover for some reason ??? When the fuel just moves back and forth it's because the check valve which is a One Way valve (rubber) is not sealing. It may be best or easiest to swap that entire diaphragm part with another style with the ball bearing valve. It will bolt right on as they are the same. Maybe a small remote control inline check valve will also work but it must be designed for fuel

I'll see what I have for parts for ya. Carb body governor vein Anything else?

Yes, a newer type carb will bolt right on. Maybe post some pics of your carb and how you have the governor set up. Carb should have a spring on the bottom of the butterfly shaft. The governor vein flag should be tight on the shaft. That shaft of the governor vein goes directly into the top of the butterfly shaft on the top of the carb.

The governor vein goes directly to the carb. No linkage. That older type engine probably has the vein type which is a flag on a black thin rod with a flat end. It just looks like a little flag. That flat end of the rod slides through the plate hole and goes directly into the slot on the butterfly of the carb. The flag end sits at the flywheel and the blower housing will keep it from disengaging with the carb. Basically the wind from the flywheel will push on the flag and rotate the rod which closes the butterfly. The screw is used for the low idle position but your engine does not have a throttle control. It's set up to run full throttle at 6300 rpm no load so it won't be touching the screw in most circumstances.

Most likely you will need to disassemble the carb and clean the little ball that's under the spring. Follow the tutorial and and you'll be fine. With a clean piece of fuel line connected to it, blow into it and air should only pass when you push the primer button. You should not be able to suck air out anytime.