Wallfish

Working on it but can't find the cone shaped piece This one on epay is also missing the bottom. They can fit on there without the cone using multiple middle sections https://www.ebay.com/itm/175446063237?hash=item28d9667885:g:8PMAAOSwvfViNJMk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4L%2BSDw1jiDybM5dtOmn5P9yKcgOSQ5v7gQlRAfg4bAZGBApfPRPnzs8fnUh0kAq5dzptn%2FtD9FBTNK7i3NX7wUsKS5vbP1WOHwftuXjpYK0y%2FxaZysxetfwjsdycJFkayhV2Vxh1eP%2FwTIXS9Y00zwa438dAZhQSHnDpMyN9OwTk4M5yMcKic1BrK4NgHzEbvA1x1YKNB5MJn%2FJUwPd1pYZuMbe10%2F56muGv4tEFTZ9lJ2TAaS36EFLAPYhitr6qLT%2FkXPadEkTXgB7TrIT50MT%2FgvvfjDwsweppPbtSEktc|tkp%3ABFBMmODFp_5g

Long skinny flat head screwdriver I have some of those check valves There are 2 small holes near the middle of the spool and a soft wire in a U shape is used to pinch the rope to the spool using those holes. The wire is twisted to tighten it then snip off the twist leaving about 1/4 " of it. You can use a copper wire strand from electrical wire, or multiple strands if all you can find is small wire

Carb tutorial https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1448-o-r-carb-repair-tutorial/

I do them by hand. Get most of it wound into a coil then pinch the coil with your fingers. To tighten and shrink the coil size, pull on the loose end while pinching the center tight and it will tighten up. Hold it the whole thing tight and wrap 5-10 more wraps around and pull it again. Repeat the process until it's small enough and all coiled up. It takes a little while It's easier if it's clean and dry. Oil it after it's installed into the housing Let me know if this doesn't make sense

There were 2 different sizes used 1/16 or 3/32 ball bearings. You can find them in the drawers at an old school hardware store (if there are any left around you)

You're welcome ! Glad you finally got her going.

It wasn't a big event. Just at a guy's house but yeah, it definitely got some attention. I enjoy explaining what they are, answering questions and trying to generate interest in them

Didn't have time to really set up the display so they ended up scattered on the trailer. There was still a couple left in the van.

Ah man, wish I knew it was missing the metal diaphragm disc. The arm can wear the diaphragm but it can work and run without it. Make sure the thin plastic check valve (#6) is on top of the gasket. It seals the little hole on the diaphragm body

Here's the list of more that's going. I'm hoping to generate some more people's interest in O&R stuff and the best way is to let them see a bunch of the applications available and how cool these little things are. That's how I got into it when a couple of them were sitting on a shelf where I went to buy something else. Mity Mite generator Creme Lure generator TT 300 2 versions of Chip A Saw Mono Chainsaw Comet chainsaw Comet pump C Saw circular saw Little Wonder hedge trimmer Bee Jay winch JB power chipper saw Polaris Power pole snow blower Polaris power pole outboard Compressor with spay gun Wards digger 10 Micro mini bike Turbair ToT Glow fuel conversion engine with airplane prop

Yes. I'd prefer having the smaller Buffalo Turbine one but ...

This WAS a nice NOS chicken power unit in the original box too It's been packed way in the back and has been there for a very long time. 2012 maybe? Pulled it out today and discovered the ruined unit. Mice made a home in the box and the urine covered thing now needs a complete overhaul and paint.

Next Saturday is a smaller get together up in Maine so figured I'd bring up some of the stuff that doesn't go to the big shows. They haven't seen the light of day in a LONG time so it'll be nice for people to see them. They're too small and expensive to leave unattended at the big shows although I have never heard of any stealing of anything at any of them. Just a small sample and will probably bring about 20-25 tools or so depending on available time to get them out. Pictures of the entire display all together next week NOS PC3 Fogger LA Fire Dept's Fan Bridge's Drill from UK Grass trimmer from UK Petro Drill Lapadary saw NOS green Amp Champ Orline Cut Off saw

Those rubber pad arms are the newer type and difficult to find as there were not near as many produced. They tried to band aid the carb again with that fix instead of the ball. You can try sending a PM to @Mike in NC as he recently posted a big parts find and may have something in there for you. He never mentioned if he was going to sell anything or not but worth a try. A product called Seal-All will stand up to the fuel or Yamabond sealer to try and glue it . Since I'm always working on bush fixes for unobtainable things, I was looking at the Kohler carb float valves. They have a rubber tip on them which is about the same size. Never tried it yet but if it can be cut off clean and flat, then poke the point (may need to be sanded or cut a little) through the arm hole, Use a solder iron or something to melt the rubber to lock it in the hole. Small RC check valve or valves in the fuel line before the carb? Changing the diaphragm body to a ball type. It will bolt right on

Or, just in case it disappears like a sock from the dryer! No one knows how it happens but we all know it does happen. LoL Once it's all back together use a piece of fuel line connected to the inlet and try to blow in it. It should only allow air to pass when the primer button is pushed. If it's allowing air to pass otherwise it's not sealing and therefore not check valving. Some carbs allow the cover to push down on the little arm ever so slightly too. I typically don't use a paper gasket along with the diaphragm but I do add one when this condition occurs. It's an easy solve compared to trying to bend that little arm.

There were 2 different sizes but I "believe" yours would be the smaller of the 2 . They are 1/16 and 3/32 ball bearings. They can be found at old school type hardware stores with all the little parts in the drawers.

The little steel ball bearing in the carb is not sealing. You can see the bearing in the carb pic above. That ball bearing sitting in the hole is the check valve. If fuel is pushing back past the ball, you can see it travel towards the tank. If the ball is sealing well, the fuel will travel through the carb to the engine. Getting that ball to seal better will help with performance of the engine.

All appear to be Little Wonder trimmers. ( Or at minimum the same thing because many O&R tools were simply branded different. ) The later type engines are 13B Scroll through this for info concerning the different engines

I remember that but not the groomer part

Do you have one of those? It's better used for that if that's what they are

Nice find! You are carb heavy now I'd be interested in these! Well, actually I'd be interested in all of it but let me know if you're willing to part with those boots and cable. I don't know what the black boots were used for as an O&R application but I have a tractor project that needs boots for 3/4" rod

That was my first thought as well but then in this pic it looks more professional. Not that someone couldn't make that but then there isn't any other paint color obvious under that color at the scrapes and missing paint. Someone could paint it too but I'd guess if someone was to go through all that trouble of completely striping the paint and building a part it would be easier to just find a correct part and make it a complete restore job. I'm guessing it could be another branded Mustang with little change to the cover

A closer look. This cover is different from the Mustang saws but that seems to be the only major thing that's different. Maybe the paint color but that could just be pics. Many were branded under different names with minor adjustments like many other O&R tools were. Mostly paint and decals but some with body panels too. All the other parts are the same.

Many carbs are interchangeable as those type are the most common. Not just chainsaws but most O&R engines have those which will bolt right on. If the ear is completely broken off then you will probably need a replacement. Repairs will not be strong enough to hold it tight and the vibration will probably crack JB weld. If it were just cracked then maybe it's salvageable. The little ball bearings can typically be found in the old school type hardware stores with the little drawers full of that small stuff. There were 2 different size bearings used--they are 1/16" or 3/32" ball bearings Found a carb body if you need it

That's a Mustang saw. Lots of parts on ebay. Can you post close up pics of the carb problem?