Wallfish

That was my first thought as well but then in this pic it looks more professional. Not that someone couldn't make that but then there isn't any other paint color obvious under that color at the scrapes and missing paint. Someone could paint it too but I'd guess if someone was to go through all that trouble of completely striping the paint and building a part it would be easier to just find a correct part and make it a complete restore job. I'm guessing it could be another branded Mustang with little change to the cover

A closer look. This cover is different from the Mustang saws but that seems to be the only major thing that's different. Maybe the paint color but that could just be pics. Many were branded under different names with minor adjustments like many other O&R tools were. Mostly paint and decals but some with body panels too. All the other parts are the same.

Many carbs are interchangeable as those type are the most common. Not just chainsaws but most O&R engines have those which will bolt right on. If the ear is completely broken off then you will probably need a replacement. Repairs will not be strong enough to hold it tight and the vibration will probably crack JB weld. If it were just cracked then maybe it's salvageable. The little ball bearings can typically be found in the old school type hardware stores with the little drawers full of that small stuff. There were 2 different size bearings used--they are 1/16" or 3/32" ball bearings Found a carb body if you need it

That's a Mustang saw. Lots of parts on ebay. Can you post close up pics of the carb problem?

Post some pics right here so we know exactly what you have and need

Sorry about that!! Click on the link above (I fixed it!) and scroll down to you see the rod bearings. And yes, there should be a cage. I'll see what I can find for parts

You gotta be pretty deep already to get to the rod bearings. There's no "cage" on those rod bearings. Just the rollers themselves. Scroll down in this thread as there's some pictures. The white stuff is Lubriplate 101 engine assembly grease I can't remember how many rollers or if there are different ones. @factory David is very good at that stuff

Not sure if I have any full bearing kits but might have some of the rollers. Did some go fly'n when you opened it up? There are bearings on the top (smaller) and bottom of the connecting rod There aren't any instructions that I know of but using grease holds them in place for assembly. There's some pics in the engine rebuild thread

It seems the bottom keeps getting deeper all the time I have one called a mini motor by K&P products out there too

Hi Rick There were 2 sizes over the years but I believe a drillgine would have the larger of the 2. they are 1/16 and 3/32 ball bearings. If you have an old school hardware store close by you can find them in the drawers with all that small stuff

Bienvenue sur le forum. Il semble que nous n’ayons pas de manuel pour le taille-haie, mais vous êtes invités à poser des questions afin que nous puissions vous aider. Mieux vaut que vous puissiez d’abord les traduire en anglais pour recevoir plus de réponses. Il est possible que nous puissions vous aider avec les pièces du moteur, mais les pièces de l’outil sont obsolètes

I can but the saw will need to be disassembled to get to that end of the engine. It's buried in the saw mount. Maybe @Edman6625 can report back if his is taken a part It makes perfect sense for everything you found as it's the same exact set up like a Comet circular saw with the belt drive to the blade, The coil cover screams Comet Industries, the chainsaw type teeth on the blade say it's intended for raw wood. The bottom plate certainly isn't intended for finish work as the screw heads protrude out just a little. Mine definitely came from Georgia. Sure seems to be such a specialized tool to be mass produced. How many gum sappers can there be?

The one I bought came from Georgia if that helps any? Maybe the gum harvester thing is what it was for Maybe intentionally ?

Please show us how it comes out when it's done.

After looking at the label pic again. Could that be a 4 B instead of JB?

I might be interested but it help to know where you're from. You can send me a PM

That's a JB Power chipper saw. I have one but have no idea what it was actually designed for. It does cut nice 3/4 wide dado joint slots. Mine didn't have that little bar guide on the bottom so that adds to the mystery. Pretty rare O&R tool as I thought I had the only one! LoL Just haven't seen another until now, even on the web

I was laughing watching that 1st one again. What, did you bore the cylinder, shave the head, add a bigger carb, port and polish? Or do something crazy like change the pulley size? LoL

Found some smaller lights and put on the dual light set up. Looks more "factory" with them

Outboard oil should never be used for lawn equipment or other 2 strokes as the oil is made differently. Yes, you can use 2 stroke oil, just don't use outboard oil.

Try these. They seem to be downloading fine for me. Ohlsson & Rice Model 20A-256 Engine Diagram + Parts List.pdf Ohlsson & Rice Challenger Chain Saw Maintenance Manual.pdf

Interesting. And they mention an Impact driver for a tool but never saw one of those Don't eat the exhaust gaskets! the manifold is insulated from the cylinder and crankcase by thick asbestos gaskets which extend out beyond the cylinder flanges

The other thing you can try is adjusting the carb when the generator is under load. But it seems like you got

Glad you got her going! 6300 rpm is typical for these little engines

Ugh Oh, it also looks like the brass needle part with the threads is broken off in the hole of the lower carb body. Maybe just the pic but.. So far you'll probably need diaphragm material and a plastic check valve. Maybe a new needle valve seat too if that piece broke and possibly enough material to cut 2 diaphragms. Not a bad idea to make a new gasket too