Wallfish

You do nice work. Think I'll ship you about 15-20 engines do for me!

Just guessing but think I'm the only one to import them so far. I kept one Bridges drill and the other went to Jim @usedtoolman. The same thing for a couple of Turbair Tots. And have 1 Kemm rough grass cutter. Which I need to go through as my next project I haven't communicated with Jim for a while but it would be nice if he got active on here again.

Very Nice find!

That's a pretty good match! String, bread ties, piece of cloth, paper clip, 2 of the kids to hold it ??? Anything you can use to hold it in and then be able to remove it.

That looks like slots on either side. Maybe use a piece of string or something to hold the brush down. Search for some brushes and try to find something close. They're not that expensive. The graphite can be shaped to match your generator.

That looks like a PITA to get to that brush for putting it back together.

Thanks for sharing! The fuel tanks don't hold much and empty fairly quick. 5 minutes would seem about right for it sucking in air bubbles from rocking and shaking.

Looks nice! You're on a roll so thanks for keeping things going on the O&R section. How many tools are you up to now?

Definitely interested so please post a video. Best is to upload it to Youtube and link it on here.

So assume this went over your head or it would be yours. Never saw it (pun intended) What did it sell for?

Not so. Closing the butterfly always allows less air flow through the carb and over the venturi tube and therefore pulls less fuel in. Air flow and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is regulated and controlled by the butterfly on the carb. More air = more fuel which = more volume of the air fuel mixture which = higher rpm The O&R governor vein needs to be connected directly into the butterfly slot on the carb. As the governor's flag is pushed away from the flywheel by air flow, it closes the butterfly, the faster the rpm, the harder it pushes. The spring on the bottom side of the butterfly shaft regulates this tension and therefore "governs" the engine speed. Post a close up picture of that area of your engine

Another product is Seal-All. Widely available, Dries quickly and not very expensive. Works great for attaching those little metal disks to the diaphragms too! Webhead turned me on to this

Hmm, just a guess but it probably is a chainsaw engine and put together for a display engine. The missing screws for the gearbox is most likely because the chainsaw cover screws that went there would have been too long and hit the tank without the spacing of that cover. And guessing the shaft was cut off for the engine to sit on that particular type of tank. All just $0.02

Do you happen to have any pics of how that gearbox is set up on the inside? The case itself looks just like the Orline and others except for the branding and those tank tabs.

Glad you found us Mike. I remember seeing that page when I first got into collecting O&R engines a while back.

Just a single fuel line to the carb. The most common issue for a no spark condition is the points. They're located under the flywheel and under that little panel. Clean the contacts well and also clean the spring where it contacts the little post. This is a pic of the tank although the trimmer is different

Those hedge trimmers are the same type as others and many companies branded them under their own name. The tool part looks complete so that's good and we can help with engine parts if you need them. It's rare to have a bad coil but yours looks to be missing the primary and secondary small wires. That type of trimmer used a vertical style fuel tank. Good clean original tanks can be difficult to find but making a replacement might be a good idea until you can find one if it matters. David @factory should be able to help with dating it. Knowing your location would help too

Try that same test on a known good coil and compare the results.

The cooling baffle indicates it's probably from a circular saw. I don't remember ever seeing those on other tools.

Most likely the poor performance is leaking crank seals. The case vacuum and pressure pulsing is what flexes the diaphragm for pumping fuel. You can try spraying carb cleaner in the ends of the crank to swell the seals in place and a new diaphragm. The induction side seal can be replaced with an O ring A sticking ball check valve can be another issue. The weak link in these engines are the carb. Adding a small RC type check valve should help too. Haven't tried these yet but just placed an order for them https://www.ebay.com/itm/2xPCS-1-8-4mm-Inline-Check-Valve-Fuel-Gas-Air-Ink-Liquid-One-Way-Non-Return/262367806603?hash=item3d1657048b:g:fEwAAOSwBLlVDjyO

As suggested a paperclip works well for making a replacement rod. You'll probably need a new diaphragm as well.

Those reeds need to seal. I'll take a look around to see if I have one for ya. Think they have numbers on them. #2 and think the ones for the bigger shaft are #1. Could be wrong though

@CNew Clint is right in your neck of the woods so maybe he is interested in it.

The condition makes a big difference as well as your location so posting some pics would certainly help

Direct from Northern Tool concerning the impeller for the pump in that link. Try giving them a call and I doubt that part can be very expensive. I do NOT know if it's a direct fit or not but certainly appears it can work 1 answer where can I get a new impeller for this pump?? by frankhus November 5, 2011 Was this question helpful to you? 6out of 6found this question helpful. Please call our parts department @ 1-800-222-5381 for price and availability.