Wallfish

I'll pull mine out when I can and get you some dimensions. Not sure if I could bend you one or not but I'll try

? 1/2" EMT conduit Do you have wood working tools to make a tube bender?

Paul has some good detailed pics on pg1. It's an everyday O&R 1/2" shaft. Looking at the pics, it might be a problem to use that chainsaw box unless you're willing to rotate the engine to raise the shaft. Take a good look at it and line it up to see if it works. If you still want the gear it's yours. At least the whole thing didn't break off. Should be an easy fix

Yes There' are pics here on the forum. One is a Warn capstan type winch. I have one called a Bee Jay winch. It uses a cable wire. And the newest type found which seems pretty rare, an Irvington Did it look like one of these? A 1/2" regular O&R straight shaft correct? One side has a flat. I might have one of those around as well. They fit right on the tapered shafts. Long time ago I cut the shaft from a defunct TT generator to make a straight shaft.

Take a look at your gear box and let me know if you want the gear. I can give it a shot first and let you know how it goes and just send the whole thing if it's good. You can keep your gear box to put a tire friction wheel on and make a mini bike with it! The gear teeth on the swap gear are wider than that chainsaw gear teeth are but the inner part of the chainsaw gear is wider than the teeth on it, so the thickness of both gears are the same but constructed different. I also have and old school die cast type gear that would fit a different type of gearbox. The diameter is smaller. I don't know the part numbers like David does to know what fits what so don't know if that can be used to flip a different gear box or not.

Just went and had a better look. That doesn't seem to be a plug to close the end so it will need to be drilled and then use something to seal the other end

There's a welch plug in the closed end. remove and reuse it for the other side to close the end and the bearings should all be the same. No need to change them. Plug and play except for moving the welch plug from one side to the other for the closed end. It may be easier said than done for that plug as I have never removed one. YET The NOS gear on the left in the pic will be flipped 180 so the shaft goes out through the end of your box which has the plug in it now. I'm about 99% sure it will work.

Think this should solve your problem How about flipping it? Found this NOS gear sitting in the parts stash The shaft will be lower rather than up higher but it should work if you want to try flipping the PTO in your chainsaw case. I've never tried it but always wanted too.

VERY nice collection! I like that Euréka Coarse Grand Prix

Ah, back when MoM was first launched and before I started the O&R section. Guess I should pull it out for some pics and start a thread of it's own for reference

Unlike the other tools, this would be an investment. Something as cool as that will always be in demand.

Oh man, 2 of them. Please let me know if this ever becomes for sale!!!! I would love to import one of those to the USA

Thanks I clicked them too. LoL Then the snowblower and drillgine videos showed up so posted those too

Photobucket hijacked everyone's stuff so here the video (referenced above) of the drill in action

Just happened to see my snow blower video on youtube after watching something else

It's been a long build but @CNew Clint lit a fire under my butt when he messaged me recently about some foot pegs. They were ordered and once they showed up it gave some incentive to work on the bike. Still have some stuff to do and think it may get another headlight since it does look better with the dual lights. Haven't cut the handle bars to add a spring so they fold. My father has a gas tank which is much closer to original if not the original type so that will go on once I get it. Finally glad just to be able to post something as it's been a bit slow on the forum.

They typically pop up on ebay all the time so keep an eye out. As far as being better off, it depends upon your intentions for using it. O&R engines run great when new or rebuilt but they're not the most reliable engine. Although not that difficult to tinker with depending upon your experience. We collect them because of all the cool stuff that was made using them but the majority of collectors don't really use them much. If you're looking for a cool old school compressor then an O&R will fit the bill but if you're looking to use it, dependability would be important.

Mwilladson That's a Kenco pump unit but the frame and exhaust setup is something I've never seen before. Just trying to think of what could've been mounted on the right side of the frame and why would the exhaust need to be extended away from it. Hard to tell from the pics if that's the same military green paint color. https://myoldmachine.com/topic/4827-ohlsson-rice-kenco-pump-models-61-61m/?tab=comments#comment-14364 https://myoldmachine.com/topic/1724-or-pumps/?tab=comments#comment-18548

OMG A new post on the forum! Seems a bit slow on here recently with no one doing any new projects. O&Rs are great for winter time season but I haven't had time to do anything at all. Then when there is a little time available I don't do anything but rest. Hope all is good with you! That's a tough call to do all that

Truly impressive! The art, mechanical details and especially the talent to be able to do it. Building a museum quality piece like that will be a priceless satisfaction when it's completed. Something money can't buy.

That came out NICE ! If interested you can make a rubber spark plug cap with Plasti Dip

Sorry, see what you mean by which center. Kinda left you in the same place you started by not being more specific

The port closest to the center goes to the carb

RPM Hunting is typically caused by a fuel mixture issue. Mostly a lean condition. With the engine running, adjust the choke closed slowly to see if you can smooth it out to run at a consistent RPM. If it smooths out by using the choke, there is too much air flowing into the fuel mixture causing the hunting condition. Here are some things to check. Carb high speed or low speed needle adjustment carb float adjustment dirty carb, clean it thoroughly, all passages including the little holes in the high speed needle valve worn butterfly shaft sealing. The sealing where the shaft exits the carb on the top is worn and allowing air to flow in gasket to the engine To check the butterfly shaft and gasket spray some carb cleaner around those areas with the engine running. If the rpm changes--- the carb cleaner is being sucked into the carb and therefore there is an air leak.

Set the governor arm according to the manual. With the bolt loose, move the arm away from the carb to hold the carb butterfly wide open, grab the rod with pliers and turn counter clockwise until it stops, tighten bolt to hold the arm on the rod in that position. When you start the engine and have it running, manually open the carb butterfly with your hand and you should feel the governor arm pushing back to try and close it. The throttle cable connection to the governor arm must use a spring and not be a direct connection. It's the spring which allows the governor to move and therefore control the carb.