Wallfish

That came out NICE ! If interested you can make a rubber spark plug cap with Plasti Dip

Sorry, see what you mean by which center. Kinda left you in the same place you started by not being more specific

The port closest to the center goes to the carb

RPM Hunting is typically caused by a fuel mixture issue. Mostly a lean condition. With the engine running, adjust the choke closed slowly to see if you can smooth it out to run at a consistent RPM. If it smooths out by using the choke, there is too much air flowing into the fuel mixture causing the hunting condition. Here are some things to check. Carb high speed or low speed needle adjustment carb float adjustment dirty carb, clean it thoroughly, all passages including the little holes in the high speed needle valve worn butterfly shaft sealing. The sealing where the shaft exits the carb on the top is worn and allowing air to flow in gasket to the engine To check the butterfly shaft and gasket spray some carb cleaner around those areas with the engine running. If the rpm changes--- the carb cleaner is being sucked into the carb and therefore there is an air leak.

Set the governor arm according to the manual. With the bolt loose, move the arm away from the carb to hold the carb butterfly wide open, grab the rod with pliers and turn counter clockwise until it stops, tighten bolt to hold the arm on the rod in that position. When you start the engine and have it running, manually open the carb butterfly with your hand and you should feel the governor arm pushing back to try and close it. The throttle cable connection to the governor arm must use a spring and not be a direct connection. It's the spring which allows the governor to move and therefore control the carb.

David @factory Should still have some on your side of the pond. Yeah, he's worse than facebook! LoL

Amazing David You don't miss a thing! Once or twice could possibly be chalked up as luck but you do this on a consistent basis. Your photo library of O&R stuff must be massive by now

Think I have some more. I gave up trying to replace them as they are a real PITA. There must be a trick or tool to get them in. Your recoil will work fine without that clip too. Frank, your package got delayed a day. The wife brought it back in the house from the mailbox thinking it was delivered here. Looks like you should receive it Monday

Cooling shrouds are a common missing part so your best bet is to be persistent searching the auction sites for them.

Nice! A year and a half huh? Good thing you waited there when I was running late!

The small disk can be attached directly to the diaphragm using Seal All. That one goes with the rubber tipped arm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313196453239 Those rubber tipped arms are like hens teeth but since you have the rubber piece, maybe it can be re-attached to the arm with Seal All as well. The flat side will need to be flat for it to seal properly so maybe boil it and clamp on a flat surface to cool before attaching it A little tiny dab of glue in the top of the hole to hold it. Just think'n out loud again. I don't remember ever noticing that "washer" thingy on a recoil spool before. But I can't remember what I had for dinner either so....

@factory David would probably know by the serial if that flywheel requires the older style pawls (basically non existent except for complete engines) or the newer more common style. I see an old type coil on your engine so it's possible it could be the older style. I don't have spare older style pawls but probably have the newer type and a flywheel.

The knob would have been the painted black one. Not many "knob only" come up for sale Those starter pawls are home made and have no springs attached Carbs should be the same I can look for a set of starter pawls for you and I have carb diaphragms. Might have a knob too but it won't be in perfect condition. Easy enough to use some wood filler, sand and paint. Take a look at the carb tutorial thread and disassemble your carbs to look for any missing parts.

Nostradamus quatrain 103 reads "Paul will need more shelf space soon"

It's special because it's an O&R powered tool like the many others Where are you located and how much are you looking to sell for? I'm interested to upgrade mine. Some of the painted parts on there look better but some are worse. Send me a private message

we can tell Was hoping to get back to cleaning up some tools and engines by now but work is still getting in the way. Crazy busy this year. Forum has been kinda slow recently too and Clint is the only one making progress.

Ouch! Guess O&R'ing is in your blood. Hopefully you heal up quick

That was a dirty one according to the used to be white towel

It could be the gearbox that's locked up. The old grease inside them gets hard as a rock. You will need to disassemble the engine and gearbox to find out which it is. Here's an older engine chicken Power thread which shows the parts. Yours is a newer engine so the gas tank would be different but the frame that mounts to the bicycle fork is basically the same

I gave up on those little spring retainers. They get removed and don't go back on and I even have a bunch of NOS clips. They are a real PITA to get back in. To remove the spool, don't pry on the spool or will get bent. Grab one of those spokes close to the center with your fingers or pliers and pull up as you rotate the spool back and forth an 1/8th to a 1/4 turn each way. You will have to "work it off" but you should see it moving up off the bearing cup. Re-install the same way but pushing down on the center with your thumb. Same process for the newer type with a retaining clip but the clip needs to be released from the groove first

That's a newer style Chicken Power. Used to power a bicycle on the front tire but you're missing some pieces. Is that the ?

Yeah, the 2 stroke oil gas tank and flashlight stand is creative. Where you from?

That's a new one on me. Warn made a capstan winch too, which has eluded my collection so far.

I didn't see a pic of the folding wheel barrow. Can you share some?

Volume 14 Issue 5 / Sept- Oct 2020