Wallfish

I discovered some problems with this machine. The channel for the auger drill carriage to ride up and down in was bent and bowed. That needed to be removed and bent back into shape so the carriage would not wobble around while drilling. It was causing the hole to widen out and allow the dirt to fall back into the hole instead of falling out to the sides. Then I noticed a worn bearing in the auger drive. Turned out that one of the bearings was completely blown apart and also discovered the shaft which drives the auger drill is cracked along the length of the keyway. Thought about cutting a V into the crack and welding it but decided to have a new shaft made. Good thing I know a retired machinist with a shop full of machines.

Powered with an old CCK series Onan.

While searching ads for a hand held earth auger to do some fence posts, I stumbled across an ad for this machine. DIG R MOBILE earth auger machine. Found it very interesting, went to look at it and impulse bought it. I don't really have a need for this much hole digging machine but I'm a sucker for old cool machines. Hopefully I can find some side work for it to help pay the bill. Everything works but it needs some TLC to get everything tightened up so it drills straight. Made in the 60s by a company called General. Came with it's own factory custom trailer. Just thought I'd share some pics.

I would have seen this quicker if posted in the O&R section Very hard to tell what the original application was but if the recoil is original to the engine, it was from a Sears chainsaw. The recoil decal is set at an angle for a chainsaw application. Going by the newer style coil, it's probably a 1hp engine.

Haven't got any replies back from PM's sent to him April 12 and it also shows he has not read any of them since that date as well. We had been communicating quite a bit about O&R equipment and he usually replies back within a few days or so. Hope he's OK

My first car was a 1972 Buick Riviera. Bought it cheap from my girlfriends uncle and borrowed the money from my parents. It was a big luxury car with a 454 ci engine. Suck'n gas and Haul'n ass! Don't have any pics of that car but this one looks just like it

Glad to see you got them back together! The PM I sent should help with how to get them going. How fun was the gearbox for the trimmer? First one I did was a pain because those little rollers kept falling out.

Welcome to the forum! I have an engine setup with all the Octura stuff for the drive except the rod wth U-joints to connect the engine to the outdrive. Also bought a complete boat off ebay but the seller never shipped it so I had to go through the B.S. of getting my money back.

I wonder if something like a diamond burr would work? Just to kind of polish it. Maybe they make a finer grit? Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/600-grit-30-DIAMOND-BURR-BITS-1-8-FOR-DREMEL-rotary-tools-glass-metal-Ceramics-/161255991787

I've had plenty of issues with those small ones too. What do you think about removing a very tiny bit of material from the seat the ball sits in?

That's a clothing iron used by tailors in the old days. They can't smash the clothes with a hammer when they get frustrated (like us engine guys do with mechanical things), so they hack them up with that contraption! Looks great Jim, certainly one of the strangest looking chainsaws ever made.

Motorcycle engine connected to a huge fan blade, an airfoil with strings attached and some straps to hold it on! What could go wrong? Something like this could be fun! If set up proper, it doesn't necessarily need to be a boat either. Or, how about a Wheel Horse hover craft? Don't think that's been done yet.

Hold my beer and watch this! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

When the fuel tank is located above the carb, the primer button isn't really necessary so I could see not needing one for a chicken power. Usually those buttonless diaphragm caps are seen on the early engines. Not sure what the deal is with yours but someone could've changed the carb or just the cap. I might have a spare cap with a button if you want to change it.

Believe it should have a primer button. A very similar unit was called a Life-Sav-r and had a water pump that connected to it as well. I don't know the exact particulars because I don't have one.

That's a good idea I wonder if the points were stopped in the open position, if that might slow the oxidizing. Or a tiny dab of dielectric grease? Just thinking out loud

What a beauty! I've been searching for a compressor for a long time.

Glad to have you back Jim

Yes, there is also a small O ring seal that goes into a hole on the case to seal that connection of the parts together.

I've done it that way too with just blowing carb cleaner through but without a doubt, complete dis assembly and a thorough cleaning is better. I know it's a PITA but... It's also recommended in the service manual to change the ball every time the carb is serviced. I've reused quite a few but also found replacements at an "old school" hardware store in a drawer for bearings. He didn't have too many and I bought them all, 12 or so. Cost was about $2 or $3 but I also have a bunch of engines and it's probably not worth the time and effort for just one.

Webhead should have the seals and gaskets. Once you pull the pieces apart the gaskets should be changed too. He may not have the crank PTO seal you need, but I can provide one if he doesn't have it. If pressure is applied through the PTO side seal, it could flow out the carb because the reed valves are after the induction sector which your carb is connected to. The reed valves are located right next to the crank's counter weights. The pressure could easily exit there and show no leak at the flywheel side. The reed valve checks pressure in the opposite direction you are applying pressure but if you hold your thumb over the induction hole, pressure will pass through the reed valves into the case. If you apply pressure through the flywheel side seal, there should be minimal loss out the carb because of the reed valves. Hope this makes sense. Posted an engine drawing under the rebuild thread so you can take a look to get a better idea too. Pics also show the reed valve and where it's installed. Shows the gaskets you might need too. No need to pressurize that high and think 25 psi will pass air through new seals. Webhead uses a balloon attached to the exhaust manifold to check leakdown of the seals but he can explain his method much better than I can. It is a lost thread from the old forum we had so hopefully he'll repost it.

I have seals but no way to ACCURATELY measure them, other than a ruler. Webhead should be able to hook you up with new seals and gaskets. You shouldn't need a puller to remove the clutch. Should be a bolt or screw which holds the center clutch part to the shaft. Some shafts are D shaped, some are tapered shaft. You'll need to look down inside the center, under the clutch springs. Think the blowers used the bolt with a 5/16 head. I can open one up and get pics if needed. The clutch pictured from the winch is an old style cork lined clutch, I believe yours should be steel with 2 flat springs spanning the center hole. Pretty sure this is a drawing of your gearbox.

Any luck ? Getting the needle adjustment is also critical. I usually start at 3/4 turn open and then make very small adjustments after that. Getting them "dialed in" can be a PITA because you can adjust at high speed to run perfect but then it can be hard starting. Some just go real easy and some can be difficult. Seems like these engines were designed to test a person's patience and I wonder how many tools were just smashed with a hammer because of the same experience you are having.

Since I do a bunch of carbs, I soak all the carb parts in a gallon can like this (except for any rubber parts). http://www.amazon.com/CC3K-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=128S4M2FNQB7XBFE8T04 Then spray them with the aresol type carb cleaner, http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0117C-Chemtool-Carburetor-Throttle/dp/B004BRHF24/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=128S4M2FNQB7XBFE8T04 then blow them out with compressed air. You can get by with just the spray type.

The diaphragm pulses from the piston movement and feeds fuel ALL the time. The button for manual priming was added for easier starting, early engines did not have the primer button but everything else was exactly the same. The button is only used for starting a cold engine. If you need to push the button and choke on, it's not getting enough fuel or it's leaking air somewhere. What 2 stroke engine and carb are you referring to with "passages" for the diaphragm? Are you referring to the reed valves? If you take a look at the engine rebuild pics, post #4 shows the reed valves, which is then covered by the induction section which the carb bolts to. This is where the pulse comes from and where the fuel goes to reach the cylinder. Fuel/air mixture passes right through the case which is why the case is sealed. http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1559-or-engine-rebuild-pics/ Trust me, you are not the first one to get frustrated with these engines and certainly won't be the last. Even with plenty of experience, there are some that just don't want to cooperate!