Wallfish

How about this one? Put it on Youtube

Actually got it going alot quicker than I thought it would take. It will still need some minor tweaking and some grease but here's another video shaking a tree. http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt316/wallfish1/th_tree%20shaking%20vid.mp4

While inspecting the Harvester engine, I found it must have been stored in a damp area for a long time as it had some issues so a semi rebuild was in order. New rings, gaskets and seals with a thorough cleaning of all the roller bearings and a carb rebuild. Got it all back together and here's a short video of the first test run. Started up and ran but died out. Still need to adjust the carb and change the fuel as I run it heavy on oil for the first fire up. Steve sent the pole and tree jaw so hopefully I can get it all together this weekend and shake a tree. I'll post another video of it in operation. http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt316/wallfish1/th_Harvester%20video.mp4

Left upright is used for the hydraulic fluid reservoir.

Looks good so far but you may be right about the arms being a little long. Keeping it tight to the front will require less weight in the rear plus a better turning radius. Here are some basic plans to help some with the design and maybe give some ideas. http://myoldmachine.com/files/category/3-large-uploads/ I have a factory Ark loader and can get you any measurements or pics if you want them.

From the serial # 1-25, Mine was built only 7 units after yours Thanks for the Ad pic. That 4750 posted earlier is the only one I've ever seen so far that matches that Ad

serial # is still on the engine. Click on the 3rd pic and you can see it

Just recently scored one of those military versions as well

Yes, it's made to shake the tree branches to release the fruit or nuts. Bet it also shakes the operator so hopefully it doesn't shake my nuts off when I give it a go

Finally found an XLH-1 Harvester, or should I say "one fell in my lap". A really nice man from Michigan (Steve Adams) found this XL tool thread on MoM while researching it and contacted me through a PM. Turns out he is not a collector and would like it to go to someone who will get it running and enjoy having it in a collection. Steve also took the time to go back to the place he found it and look for the extension pole and the tree jaw that goes with it. He found them in a barn and is sending those as well. These are very rare and even more so for a complete machine. I'm pretty excited about having one in the collection and look forward to getting it running to test it out.

My wife took this video of herself grabbing a Cicada bug. Kind of funny so I thought I'd share it.

You can find more professional plans at PFEngineering.com I built a backhoe with their plans but not the loader. The plans are detailed and cover every component so there's no guessing plus a proven design. You could also build a basic frame and arms with wood first because wood is quick and easy to make changes too. That way you can get it how you like it before all of the harder work of cutting, welding and drilling the steel.

We haven't been able to determine exact years for any O&R engines or tools but if you post some pictures of your saw, it can be narrowed down. There were minor differences made to the engines over the years. The saw pictured above is an early model and built 1960 - 62

Something could be causing a lean condition which does cause that to happen. ( such as: running out of gas, dirt in carb, clogged screen in tank, pinched fuel line, you get the idea) Also be sure the governor arm is secure to the carb and not bent or rubbing anything. Be sure the butterfly is closing and not binding when the cable is moved to idle position. The cable can sometimes slip off and not push it closed There are not separate circuits for idle and high speed

Very Nice, looks great! Engine sounds good too. Throttle control engines can be difficult to get the carb adjustment dialed in. There's a fine line between idling correctly and starting easy. Some are more difficult than others and some dial right in. Where's the video of driving it?

Too bad someone pulled the engine off. A Brush Klipper would be interesting. Maybe looked like a Yard-Arm which was a string trimmer type machine but the head accepted a metal blade, circular saw blade and wire wheel. I have yet to see one though, only drawings and manuals. That engine doesn't appear to have run very much or the exhaust manifold would be more discolored.

Here's a pic of the Orline version. A few things are a little different.

Nice job! Can't wait to see it done Did Joe have a throttle for you or do you need the one I showed apic of??

Nice find! What is that ring thingy under the spark plug?

It seems you guys in Europe collect different stuff than we do over here so I was curious what something like this would sell for over there. Runs and cuts For sale locally for $120

Have only seen 2 show up for sale but that doesn't mean I missed some. They come mostly from Chicken Power engines. The one in the pic came from an Orline hedge trimmer. You can try sending a PM to member Webhead and see if he has one for sale. As a last resort, I can probably sell the one in the pic even though I need it for a Chicken Power. I'll never use it to mount on a bicycle but I like to keep my engine stuff complete. I'll let it go if I have to because I'll probably come across another one before you do. It will need a longer conduit and cable for use on a bicycle.

Not sure why this posted in this thread but removing the ethanol also lowers the octane. Best to start with high octane fuel and add an octane booster BUT, make sure you research the booster because most are made with some form of alcohol, so adding it back into the fuel doesn't make any sense. You will need to find a petroleum based octane booster. I know Lucas makes one but I'm sure there are others. Funny, I just did some research into this exact thing a couple days ago. I sent some questions into a site which explains most of this but didn't have anything concerning the removal of ethanol with water to use the fuel. Hopefully they will answer back

The O&R throttle setup on these carbs are a little different for hooking up a throttle cable in the sense that the cable does not pull the butterfly open, but it needs to push the butterfly closed to get to the idle position. Most twist throttles will have a return spring built into them. here's a pic of an O&R throttle. Not sure where to get the small conduit but maybe a bicycle shop will have it. Where about in Jersey are you? Grew up in the Cherry Hill area across the bridges from Philly.

I use regular 87 octane and have no available stations that sell non ethanol gasoline. I only use my engines for display and don't really work them so it doesn't really matter to me. Yes the ethanol will eventually turn the diaphragm into cardboard so if you plan to use the engine I'd suggest paying the money for a can of Trufuel. They sell ethanol free fuel in expensive cans at mower shops and Home Depot. The original specs of the engines suggest using 30w oil but oil technology has changed so much over the years. Yes, i use synthetic oil Let me know if you need any pics of the pawls if it isn't apparent what is binding them up

The pawls should have small flat springs which close them for starting and then the centrifugal force of the flywheel spinning when it starts should force them out to stay disengaged. Sounds like you may have something binding them up in there. I use normal air cooled 2 stroke oil mixed at 32:1