Wallfish

Drillgines are actually one of the tougher O&R tools to work on because of the sequence of they way the parts need to go on or off. That thing looks NICE and clean, good job! Where did you get the diaphragm from? Joe Weber in St. Louis? If so, contact him about the other seals and gaskets. And a clip for the throttle Get that old air filter material out of there! I just use small engine air filter foam cut to size. Cut a small disc and stuff it in there. You can find it at a lawnmower/small engine shop or hardware stores. Doubt you can find the "Drillgine" decal for the tank but a guy on Ebay sells the one for the recoil. I'll see if I can get you a pic of the throttle connection but this should help. The clip which holds it in place is just a small bent piece of flat spring steel

You got the right idea, let it soak! That pick up line can be a pain to replace. Take a look at the air cleaner too. If it still has that light orange color foam in it, it is dry and flakey so it needs to be removed before it gets sucked into your engine. A piece of wire and then soaking that too will remove it all. For a replacement, You can buy a foam air cleaner at any lawnmower shop or most hardware stores. Cut to size and stuff it in there. I just use the Kohler pre-filters that cover the paper filters.

More progress on the bike. I kind'a like that decal on the headlight.

Glad you found us and welcome back! Which engine diagrams are you looking for? I'll post them for you if I have them

Posted a thread over on RedSquare but wanted to share over here too since everyone isn't a member over there. This is being built quick to bring to the big Wheel Horse show in a couple of weeks. The feature tractors for this year are customs and since all of mine have been sold, I need to bring something. Started with a Snow/Dozer frame and trip springs, front axle and spindles for handle bars and any other Wheel Horse part that will work to get as many as possible on there. Springer front end won't be operational for the show but is being built to work once there's enough time to do it. Still a long way to go but this is what's done so far and just mocked up. Things will change as it progresses.

Original post by usedtoolman. "If I recall there is one more factor on the needle setting. If you have a slotted needle the setting is 1/2 turn as opposed to 1-1/4 for the non grooved needle." Also see the last post in the carb tutorial thread. The other screw limits the butterfly and will need to be adjusted with the engine running

Seems like you need a 16 hp engine

PTO "Bell" is a slang word for us Americans but just figured you would get the idea because of the cracks in a cast part. "Housing-Clutch" is the term used in the parts diagrams for that part. What do you guys call it?

That's not a 551 but looks more like a 1960 550. The 551 used a 2pc trans case and the hood was different among other things. Lots of things point towards a 1960, the hood, trans and foot rests. Another confirmation would be the clutch/brake pedal. A 551 should have a cast pedal and the 1960 would have a bent steel pedal. The two 1960 tractors (400 & 550) were identical except for the engine and the electric start components. The 550 had an electric start Lauson/Tecumseh and the 400 used a pull start Kohler K91. The export tractors could be a little different configuration but I believe these early models were all the same.

*** WARNING *** WARNING *** WARNING *** What ever you do, do NOT use that PTO bell. That thing will grenade on you and it won't be pretty. Very Very dangerous to use that!!!!!!

It only takes a couple of collectors to want it more than each other until one gives up. The guy who posted about a Homelite XL-120 circular saw here, finally listed it on Epay and it went for over $1300. I was in at half that and couldn't believe it went that high. I guess you never know.

The guy replied back about having a "Family Disagreement" concerning the saw and may re-list it.

Posted mine in this topic It's actually a Lapidary saw for cutting rocks and stones but can certainly be used for tile and other applications. Didn't think I'd ever see another one!

Agree with Stormin. Pull the flywheel and check that key. or Bad gas maybe? I'll get some good pics of those engine pages for you this weekend, Sorry about that, it slipped my mind

Lee, I need an email address to send those files if you still want them

I'm assuming this is a 20A engine. Here is a diagram of what I have. Let me know if you would like a better copy with a parts list and I can email one to you.

:WMOM:Racer59 Unfortunately I have never run any of my glow plug engines because I don't have the fuel. The RC engines are just part of my collection. I'm sure a local hobby shop which sells RC nitro fuel can help you with the correct fuel to use. The carb setting will need to be adjusted with the engine running to get the best performance for each condition it is running in. To initiate the start with a glow plug, you will need to attach a 6v battery to the glow plug. This will heat the little coil inside the plug to ignite the fuel and then the battery connection is removed. The combustion of the fuel will keep that little coil hot enough to keep the engine running without the battery.

Unfortunately I don't have much experience with those engines and only own one, which I have never taken apart. I'll search through my documentation to try and find a size but may only find a part #. I would suggest you send a PM to member Webhead.(Joe Weber) He's not as active on here as he used to be but he might have the rings.You can also contact him through eBay as he has quite a few items up for sale now under Ohlsson Rice. His name on there is amcweb

PM sent. The 120s are not as common as the XL-100.

Also have this Cutoff saw grinder. Same idea as the XL-100G but this is an attachment to the chainsaw compared to a specific manufactured tool.

Found another tool for the collection. A Homelite XL-100G-1A. Basically the same as an XL-100 circular saw but with a grinder wheel instead of a saw blade but doesn't come with flat guide to ride on. Not in the best of condition concerning the paint but this is the only one I've ever seen so...

Over here we can get can openers which cut the bead around the lid and not the lid. Imagine you guys can get them too. After repairs you can just solder around the edge and file it smooth. Once painted no one would ever notice. You're right about someone getting that deal. If it was listed under Ohlsson & Rice it would've sold for $350+

Have not found a similar substitute yet. I'm sure there's something out there but just haven't seen it yet. Try contacting Webhead (Joe Weber) to see if he has any tanks.

VERY NICE!!!!!! And one of the coolest looking O&R tools out there. They are very rare and difficult to find over here too. I got lucky and bought one from Webhead and have only seen one other for sale so far. Appears those two should clean up real nice.

Email sent The Ohlsson & Rice section of this forum has been linked all around the net on US sites and some international sites as well. It is the only active forum on the entire net (as of now anyway) for O&R compact engines so posting stuff for sale on here is still an excellent way to reach other collectors. Our old site, before we moved here, had many members from around the world although most were from the US. I just wanted to let any other potential members who are interested in O&R engines know this.