Wallfish

Too bad that muffler is blown out. Those go for some big money. By the way, that tractor is a 1960 model 400

A knot will certainly keep it from pulling through but I never liked the big lump it creates in the rope winding. Kind of like it creates a cam and you can feel it when pulling the rope out. That's why I prefer to melt a smaller knob into the end of the rope. Without a doubt either way is fine, just a matter of preference.

Very Nice!!!!! Thanks for the update.

For some reason I clicked on this link which appeared in the cluster of videos after the one you linked ended. I was LMFAO so just thought I'd share it even though it has absolutely nothing to do with the content of this thread. Sorry for getting of topic!

HA, I'm an idiot! Just looked real quick at the pic before posting. Guess it's one of those mind bending illusions used to trick the simple minded, like me! Those bastards got me!

I'm not so convinced it doesn't give off ANY carbon monoxide fumes AT ALL. Especially since his detector went off at the end of the video. No way the "heat" as he explained, would reach the ceiling unless he ran thing for a loooooooong time and even then, that's a stretch. Very interesting concept so thanks for sharing. I'm going to check out some of the other videos and info concerning this. One question though, Could some or most of the gain in running time be contributed to a very lean running engine? That might explain the "heat" theory as a lean running air cooled engine will run hot under a lean condition.

Nice!!!! Are those the decals sold on epay here in the U.S.? Curious of the quality. It certainly looks good

Yes, it's just a piece of wire shaped in a "U" that matches those 2 little holes in the spool. I should have some of those if you want one. Best to melt the end of the rope to form a "knob" which will keep the rope from pulling through the tightened wire. At least that's how I solved the problem since it happened to me as well. Might also be a good idea to use a longer rope so it doesn't end at the attachment point when pulling it. It can be a fine line between over stuffing the spool and having it too short. Done it both ways way too many times and I hate working on those recoils as it is, so having to do them over again really sucks when that rope pulls out. -- I've just used any piece of wire for the rope before getting spare parts. Also cut a thick sewing needle to make that little carb rod too.

The tank on that outboard is just an added Drillgine tank. Not original to the outboard but it does look good on there. (Ha, fooled you all.) Webhead's tank is just a little bit different than a drillgine tank concerning the fuel outlet but maybe it's an early one. And something I just noticed from David's pic. The 6300 rpm option turns the chuck in the opposite direction.

I'll check this weekend for a little carb rod

Lots of work to clean that one up but looking forward to see how it comes out.

Having a tank made would certainly be nice. I was thinking one good one out of the two, but you're way ahead of me making two out of two!

Did you find the starter pieces you need?

There are different applications to different engines but I looked at one of your previous posts and it appears your engine has an early coil, which should equal the head uses a small 10mm plug. If so, the original plugs were a Champion UY6. Alternatives are Autolite P6 or NGK CMR 7A You'll probably need to source one online. Let me know if you can't find one, I have about 6 or 7 NOS Autolite P6 plugs.

NICE! Thanks for sharing

Looks good now. Thanks for sharing

Those old valves made of membrane seem to always go bad. Once the little valve part curls up, they're just about worthless.

Something happened while replying and I think there were some updates being made to the site at the same time so my reply was delayed doubled. David obviously hooked you up with pics and good info.

Welcome to MoM That is an older style carb body with the adjustment needle on the side of the body. (Correct for that style) There should be a screw in that top hole to hold the diaphragm assembly to the body and not a needle valve assembly. You will need a new diaphragm. Also make sure there is a thin plastic check valve (which gets sandwiched between the 2 halves of the carb). You will see it in pics under the carb tutorial thread. We had these laser cut along with the diaphragms so they are now available again and are perfect matches to the originals. The two holes I think you're referring to are used for a throttle cable which are not used for the Tiny Tiger application. They're used for applications like the Chicken Power and some Drills ect. You'll need to install a new rope and handle for the recoil. The side you have pictured is the spring side. After attaching and coiling the rope on the spool, that slot goes over the spring but it can be tricky sometimes to get them to lock. Looks like you may need to bend the spring a little into a hook. I'll see what I can find for pics to help you out. Member @Webhead, Joe should have all the parts you need. Send him a PM. He probably has the rope, handle, little rope attaching wire, check valve, diaphragm and the carb screw. If he doesn't have something, let me know and I'll check my small parts stash. ( no need to check with us both to compare prices, mine will be higher as my parts stash is small and used to repair my personal engines) I'm not trying to discourage you from asking for what you need but people have done this in the past, only to think I'm trying to gouge them for profit which is NOT the case. I just prefer to keep my parts and selling them for $10 is just not worth it to me since I paid a premium amount for them. That being said, I still try to be as fair as I can if someone needs something and I have it.

Try sending a PM to member @Webhead on here. He is the same guy selling that piece on ebay so he may be able to do a better deal without the fees they charge the seller. Check down inside the hole for the broken seat. Common for people to over tighten it and they break off easy. Might as well check the diaphragm too. If it's hard you will need a new one and Webhead can hook you up with one of those too.

That side of the tank does come off but like you said, easier said than done. You need to heat it to burn the epoxy but that may ruin your decal. @usedtoolman has reproduced that decal so you can send him a message before you start to make sure he can provide you a new decal. Or like mad man stated, use a good tank sealer kit. Just make sure you remove the fuel pickup inside before sealing. I have never separated those pieces before but maybe usedtoolman can also give you some more advice too.

Nice score. Too bad it must have sat out side or in a damp area for a while. Apparently a previous owner decided he didn't want all that poison spraying on himself when blowing it upwind. First one I've seen with the newer style recoil and housing. Curious about that expanded metal for a debris screen in the recoil too. Don't remember ever seeing that before either.

Here's a Ward's Digger 10 which has the same design as a General model 10 ice auger. Both seem to be pretty rare items. Never thought O&R had enough power for an earth auger but here it is. These doubled as a drill with an added threaded on drill chuck.

There's one for sale up by me. But isn't $700 a bit over priced? it can always ship to OK fairly inexpensive using Fastenal.

Check out post #21 in this thread for a simple way to test for engine seal and gasket leaks http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1559-or-engine-rebuild-pics/