Wallfish

Looks great!

The better designed engine will be the P7, the Japanese ripped off the basic design but made improvements which made their version much more reliable. Those guys always seem to engineer a good engine. To be quite honest, the O&Rs are good for collecting, not so reliable for constant use.

Nice! Bet we can probably help if you want to power it with an O&R.

Best to post any site issues or questions here http://myoldmachine.com/forum/9-site-suggestions-updates-issues/ So Karl @nylyon will see it. He handles all the fun stuff for the forum but he isn't on here that much. Anything posted in that section will get to him much quicker.

A VERY nice find as those are much more rare! So far only the second one I've ever seen on the net.

Glad to see you active on the forum again Joe

That thing is beautiful now, Very nice job! Since you did such a nice job and clearly want a nice machine, I'd be willing to trade tanks so you have a good one if you pay for shipping both tanks. Not sure if that is worth it or not depending on shipping cost but you can research that and let me know. Shipping would be to and from Leicester MA 01524 USA. If ANY of you guys ever find something over here that a seller will not ship, Just let me know and I will ship it for them. They can ship it to me and I'll send it to you for whatever the actual postage is. Doesn't need to be just O&R stuff either. Some of you guys have helped me with this so I'm more than willing to return the favor!

So Jim (usedtoolman) and I got together Saturday at a local antique engine show (Straw Hollow) and displayed part of our O&R collections together. I think Jim had around 20 tools and I had about 25. Both of us have more than this but it's just way too much hassle to bring everything. Who knows, maybe one day we can do a bigger one with everything we have. Jim's much nicer display! He has some really nice stuff. And my crappy display. No pics of my ugly mug! And kind of a shot of both And here is some other stuff that was at the show

Nice score! Saw that pump on Ebay and thought about it because it's different, but never did bid. Glad to see it went to someone who will post about it here.

Looks good now!

Think I just replied to an ad you have on the local Craigslist. 99% of the time, the carb diaphragm will be dry and hard so it will need to be replaced along with a good and thorough carb cleaning. There is a great tutorial posted in the forum for doing it. Points need to be cleaned most of the time too if it doesn't have spark.

I'm with Factory on this one. It seems like it has had very little use because of the very clean rope. Those pull ropes get dirty VERY quick so a clean one usually equals NOS or close to it. BUT--- it's always possible it was changed too. I would go with new fuel lines, carb diaphragm and a good carb clean before pulling that one completely apart. Plus the very thin paper case seals are few and far between. OH, and clean the points too.

I agree. The ground (-) is always the ground and the white plug links the + of which ever voltage it's plugged into to the brass + output terminal. Just a guess too but a meter will certainly confirm it.

Try aluminum foil to clean that chrome. Plenty of instructions about it on Youtube and it works great.

NICE! Recoil / housing is nice without a lot of missing paint. Usually see them in much worse condition.

A short video of a test ride. Weird engine noise is the flywheel hitting the blower housing.

I'd be interested if you can find any of those original bottles and more than the two you need.

Connect a clean piece of fuel line and test the ball check valve by blowing and sucking air. You should only be able to blow air through when the primer button on top is pushed and never be able to suck air back. The better the seal, the better it will pump. Sometimes those balls get stuck or sticky too.

Got a little more done and was able to finally test ride. Need to get those bearings installed for the steering, Ride was rough because it was hard to steer with just bushings in there. Hopefully a video this weekend. That's my grandson going for a test fit and he looks much better on it than I do. He said he wants one when he gets his license.

Drillgines are actually one of the tougher O&R tools to work on because of the sequence of they way the parts need to go on or off. That thing looks NICE and clean, good job! Where did you get the diaphragm from? Joe Weber in St. Louis? If so, contact him about the other seals and gaskets. And a clip for the throttle Get that old air filter material out of there! I just use small engine air filter foam cut to size. Cut a small disc and stuff it in there. You can find it at a lawnmower/small engine shop or hardware stores. Doubt you can find the "Drillgine" decal for the tank but a guy on Ebay sells the one for the recoil. I'll see if I can get you a pic of the throttle connection but this should help. The clip which holds it in place is just a small bent piece of flat spring steel

You got the right idea, let it soak! That pick up line can be a pain to replace. Take a look at the air cleaner too. If it still has that light orange color foam in it, it is dry and flakey so it needs to be removed before it gets sucked into your engine. A piece of wire and then soaking that too will remove it all. For a replacement, You can buy a foam air cleaner at any lawnmower shop or most hardware stores. Cut to size and stuff it in there. I just use the Kohler pre-filters that cover the paper filters.

More progress on the bike. I kind'a like that decal on the headlight.

Glad you found us and welcome back! Which engine diagrams are you looking for? I'll post them for you if I have them

Posted a thread over on RedSquare but wanted to share over here too since everyone isn't a member over there. This is being built quick to bring to the big Wheel Horse show in a couple of weeks. The feature tractors for this year are customs and since all of mine have been sold, I need to bring something. Started with a Snow/Dozer frame and trip springs, front axle and spindles for handle bars and any other Wheel Horse part that will work to get as many as possible on there. Springer front end won't be operational for the show but is being built to work once there's enough time to do it. Still a long way to go but this is what's done so far and just mocked up. Things will change as it progresses.

Original post by usedtoolman. "If I recall there is one more factor on the needle setting. If you have a slotted needle the setting is 1/2 turn as opposed to 1-1/4 for the non grooved needle." Also see the last post in the carb tutorial thread. The other screw limits the butterfly and will need to be adjusted with the engine running