Wallfish

Webhead should have the seals and gaskets. Once you pull the pieces apart the gaskets should be changed too. He may not have the crank PTO seal you need, but I can provide one if he doesn't have it. If pressure is applied through the PTO side seal, it could flow out the carb because the reed valves are after the induction sector which your carb is connected to. The reed valves are located right next to the crank's counter weights. The pressure could easily exit there and show no leak at the flywheel side. The reed valve checks pressure in the opposite direction you are applying pressure but if you hold your thumb over the induction hole, pressure will pass through the reed valves into the case. If you apply pressure through the flywheel side seal, there should be minimal loss out the carb because of the reed valves. Hope this makes sense. Posted an engine drawing under the rebuild thread so you can take a look to get a better idea too. Pics also show the reed valve and where it's installed. Shows the gaskets you might need too. No need to pressurize that high and think 25 psi will pass air through new seals. Webhead uses a balloon attached to the exhaust manifold to check leakdown of the seals but he can explain his method much better than I can. It is a lost thread from the old forum we had so hopefully he'll repost it.

I have seals but no way to ACCURATELY measure them, other than a ruler. Webhead should be able to hook you up with new seals and gaskets. You shouldn't need a puller to remove the clutch. Should be a bolt or screw which holds the center clutch part to the shaft. Some shafts are D shaped, some are tapered shaft. You'll need to look down inside the center, under the clutch springs. Think the blowers used the bolt with a 5/16 head. I can open one up and get pics if needed. The clutch pictured from the winch is an old style cork lined clutch, I believe yours should be steel with 2 flat springs spanning the center hole. Pretty sure this is a drawing of your gearbox.

Any luck ? Getting the needle adjustment is also critical. I usually start at 3/4 turn open and then make very small adjustments after that. Getting them "dialed in" can be a PITA because you can adjust at high speed to run perfect but then it can be hard starting. Some just go real easy and some can be difficult. Seems like these engines were designed to test a person's patience and I wonder how many tools were just smashed with a hammer because of the same experience you are having.

Since I do a bunch of carbs, I soak all the carb parts in a gallon can like this (except for any rubber parts). http://www.amazon.com/CC3K-Carburetor-Parts-Cleaner-Basket/dp/B000ABGA4E/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=128S4M2FNQB7XBFE8T04 Then spray them with the aresol type carb cleaner, http://www.amazon.com/Berryman-0117C-Chemtool-Carburetor-Throttle/dp/B004BRHF24/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=128S4M2FNQB7XBFE8T04 then blow them out with compressed air. You can get by with just the spray type.

The diaphragm pulses from the piston movement and feeds fuel ALL the time. The button for manual priming was added for easier starting, early engines did not have the primer button but everything else was exactly the same. The button is only used for starting a cold engine. If you need to push the button and choke on, it's not getting enough fuel or it's leaking air somewhere. What 2 stroke engine and carb are you referring to with "passages" for the diaphragm? Are you referring to the reed valves? If you take a look at the engine rebuild pics, post #4 shows the reed valves, which is then covered by the induction section which the carb bolts to. This is where the pulse comes from and where the fuel goes to reach the cylinder. Fuel/air mixture passes right through the case which is why the case is sealed. http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1559-or-engine-rebuild-pics/ Trust me, you are not the first one to get frustrated with these engines and certainly won't be the last. Even with plenty of experience, there are some that just don't want to cooperate!

Try connecting a clean piece of fuel line to the carb and blow into it. It should only pass air when you push the primer button and the little ball should check valve the air when you suck air out. If air is passing without pushing the button you will need to inspect inside and find out why. The arm may need adjusting, check valve ball is stuck or needs replacing, ect, ect.

I don't believe those gear cases are designed to use gear oil and have found only traces of grease inside the cases which I have opened up. I fill mine with Lubriplate engine assembly grease. The old oil ratio on the label was for old SAE 30 motor oil which was how it was done back in the day but modern oil is much different. I use 2 stroke oil designed for AIR cooled engines and mix at 32:1 No problem with oil in the clutch. I do have ice augers which are designed to hold gear oil in the cases and they use the same clutch which gets submersed in the gear oil and they still operate. The only issue is the friction of the oil causes the drum to turn unless it gets restricted enough to hold the shaft still. If the oil did not leak out of the gear case and was sucked into the engine, those seals should be replaced. Cool video, the engine sounded better once it warmed up and should sound like a chainsaw. A little "pingie" sound with no load and smooth when under load. Too much oil in the fuel mix will cause the exhaust to clog, become restricted with deposits and cause a loss of power. Is this video with the new diaphragm?

Bought this chainsaw carving from a local guy last year and mounted it up on my shed. Just thought it looked cool with the snow covered beard Amazing what some guys can do with a chainsaw.

Added some more pieces to the Homelite powered tool collection. Upgraded to a better example of the XLS Water Pump. The old one had a broken handle and was missing the gas tank. An XL-12 toy chainsaw with box And a Millitary version of the XL-A115 generator.

A good flexible diaphragm is critical to get your engine to run properly. It can't pump enough fuel or keep it consistent enough if it's stiff so you should certainly start there. I've had plenty of engines run OK without replacing seals BUT if you want the best performance, seal the case. No big deal to me since all of my engines are for display only but I do get all of them running. To me, they just seem like a pretty boat anchor if they don't run.

That sucks about the key. I never paid much attention to those crank and key differences and never even noticed they were different.

Seems like it must be a combination of things but I believe that cylinder needs to screw all the way in. If not, the piston can't reach the top for the best compression.

These saws are the only tool I know of which use a particular type of belt, so when you break the tool down be careful not to damage the belt. VERY difficult to find a replacement if not impossible. They're not fragile but if it does get damaged your saw is ruined. It will be located under the plate behind the blade. There is a belt tension screw forward of the front two engine mounting screws so loosen all 4 engine mounting screws and back out the tension screw to remove the belt. Once the belt is removed you can take the engine off. You can find an engine rebuild thread pinned to the top of the O&R section so that should help with the engine. Best thing to do is post some pictures of your saw and ask any questions as you go along.

That link works, thanks. Sounds like it's running good

Nice! The video link won't play because it says it's corrupt

I don't see any problem with using O rings. Particularly on that side since the seal sits deep in the groove of the induction sector.

Thought the same thing and may just try to polish it up. It can always get painted later on.

Bought this one in rough condition a while ago. Motor was shot, missing clutch and clutch cover. Piston took a beating Saw completely striped down and cleaned. Made a new tank gasket Made a new clutch cover Found a good engine for it but it still needs to be gone through. It's been ready for paint for too long but just haven't got to it yet. Thanks to Webead for the clutch and thanks to usedtoolman for the NOS bar. This was a project posted on the old forum but still haven't completed it.

The manual recommends using a flat head screwdriver to pry the generator halves for separating them.

Received my engine show banner this week for displaying the O&Rs at the local engine shows. Approx 3ft x 2ft on heavy 15 mil vinyl and less than $20 with shipping from Staples online.

That's about it for the engine and gearbox rebuild. Just need to add the air filter, muffler, governor vane and recoil. I did put a used carb on it for now until I run it for a test but will then swap that out for a NOS carb and leave it like that. This engine does not have the thrust washers and the bearings sit in a plastic cage. Newer versions use the thrust washers and have steel cages for the bearings among other small differences so it's ALWAYS a good idea to have the correct drawing for the engine.

Next is the clutch and gearbox. Pretty much self explanatory how to put these back together after you take them apart. Cleaned the bearings in a jar with carb cleaner. Used the motor assembly grease to fill the case and grease the bearings. I find that these types of clutches with the cork linings tend to grab the drum prematurely. By sanding down the cork at these points, it does cure that issue BUT will probably shorten the life of the clutch. I don't use these engines for work anyway so I prefer to have them work correctly for the short periods of time that they do run. All together Forgot to take pics of the seal for the PTO shaft of the gearbox. It's the same as the induction seal earlier in this thread

Time for the coil and flywheel Mount the coil but leave screws loose Install flywheel and don't forget the little key and the points cover. Point the key towards the coil so the magnets don't attract to the coil during installation. Make sure it seats properly on the taper of the crank and tighten nut and washer onto crank. Then turn flywheel so the magnets are at the coil. I use a business card to gap the coil and the magnets will pull the coil tight onto the card so it can be locked into position easily with the screws. I decided to use the original short wire condenser. If using the long wire type, you can feed the wire at the same time you are doing the coil wire so it can be mounted on the other side of the cylinder. The coil wire and condenser wire mount to the little post which connects to the points. This is where a shut off can be connected to as well. Now is a good time to give the flywheel a whirl to check the spark. You can spin it by hand and should see a consistent blue spark.

Now for the cylinder and exhaust manifold. First install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand and then I'll use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight

Next I decided to do the back plate, points, outer bearing and crank seal. Grease the points push rod and install the flat end through the seal and into the engine after the plate is installed. Be sure to clean the points! Even if they are new from the package. Might as well gap them too. Seal is tapped on over crank bearing using a socket. The groove side of the seal faces into the engine.