Wallfish

That's about it for the engine and gearbox rebuild. Just need to add the air filter, muffler, governor vane and recoil. I did put a used carb on it for now until I run it for a test but will then swap that out for a NOS carb and leave it like that. This engine does not have the thrust washers and the bearings sit in a plastic cage. Newer versions use the thrust washers and have steel cages for the bearings among other small differences so it's ALWAYS a good idea to have the correct drawing for the engine.

Next is the clutch and gearbox. Pretty much self explanatory how to put these back together after you take them apart. Cleaned the bearings in a jar with carb cleaner. Used the motor assembly grease to fill the case and grease the bearings. I find that these types of clutches with the cork linings tend to grab the drum prematurely. By sanding down the cork at these points, it does cure that issue BUT will probably shorten the life of the clutch. I don't use these engines for work anyway so I prefer to have them work correctly for the short periods of time that they do run. All together Forgot to take pics of the seal for the PTO shaft of the gearbox. It's the same as the induction seal earlier in this thread

Time for the coil and flywheel Mount the coil but leave screws loose Install flywheel and don't forget the little key and the points cover. Point the key towards the coil so the magnets don't attract to the coil during installation. Make sure it seats properly on the taper of the crank and tighten nut and washer onto crank. Then turn flywheel so the magnets are at the coil. I use a business card to gap the coil and the magnets will pull the coil tight onto the card so it can be locked into position easily with the screws. I decided to use the original short wire condenser. If using the long wire type, you can feed the wire at the same time you are doing the coil wire so it can be mounted on the other side of the cylinder. The coil wire and condenser wire mount to the little post which connects to the points. This is where a shut off can be connected to as well. Now is a good time to give the flywheel a whirl to check the spark. You can spin it by hand and should see a consistent blue spark.

Now for the cylinder and exhaust manifold. First install the gaskets and manifold onto the cylinder head. The rubber type gaskets are 2 different sizes. The one with the larger inside diameter hole goes on the cylinder first. Then manifold, then 2nd gasket, then metal rings, then O ring. Tightened it by hand and then I'll use a tool to get it tighter if needed. Turning the manifold with the cylinder at the same time will get it close to tight

Next I decided to do the back plate, points, outer bearing and crank seal. Grease the points push rod and install the flat end through the seal and into the engine after the plate is installed. Be sure to clean the points! Even if they are new from the package. Might as well gap them too. Seal is tapped on over crank bearing using a socket. The groove side of the seal faces into the engine.

Next is the other half of the crank, reed valve and induction sector. *Something I missed documenting is there is also a seal inside the reed valve part. Just past the bearing race. It's the same exact seal as the induction part seal The thin paper gasket which goes onto the reed valve is difficult to get on without breaking it. I found that soaking it in the same fuel mix to run these engines softens it up enough to get it on. Next is the induction sector with gasket was installed. Use screws to hold it in place. This is a good time to install a new points push rod seal too.

Time to install the crank into the case Crank installed into case, then bearing for connecting rod. then connecting rod with pistion

Started with the piston and connecting rod. The new rod has a slot to let more oil into the bearings New rod installed. Then did the rings I use this motor assembly grease on everything which was recommended from Webhead Then decided to replace the crank seal in the induction part. Had to pick the old one out with a small dental pick tool

Decided to get some parts together and rebuild this engine for a BeJay winch I recently bought. The engine was covered in grime and very stiff to turn over. Since it needed to be completely disassembled just to clean it, might as well do a complete rebuild and document with some pics Here's the winch The engine completely disassembled and parts cleaned Some of the NOS parts to be used. Cylinder, rings, connecting rod, complete seal/gasket kit, coil, flywheel, points, carb, ect.

Here's an older version Amp Champ model 4750. Came without an engine so it's not technically correct but they all look the same to most people anyway. The generator's cast housing is heavier and thicker compared to the newer versions and it also has a rough surface from the sand casting. Bottom bends in the stand are facing out verses facing in, like the newer versions.

That #6 certainly looks like that's it and it states that normal 110v US plugs will fit into it. Jam one in there Joe and let us know how it works out

Is that a Canadian thing? I've seen curved blades for twist lock plugs but don't ever remember seeing a 2 prong 110v curved plug. Wonder if you can just make one from the twist lock type if you can't something that fits.

Not sure where this fuel tank came from but I was using it as an engine test stand before I found this engine. This tank had one of the air ports plugged so it can be used as a pressurized tank. The exhaust has a port on the manifold to pressurize the tank. The cover for the crank is copper pipe parts but appears to be made professionally. I put a 16 or 18 inch prop and spinner on it so it should really screw some air! Never did fire it up but I may get her going for this years upcoming engine shows, it would be fun to demonstrate it.

Water cooled head and converted to run RC glow fuel with Octura carb and glow plug

Nice project! Can't wait to see what you do with it. I have a larger one ( The Stickler ) and thought about using a hydraulic motor to power it through a 25:1 gearbox and attaching it to the bucket of my backhoe. With the screw pointing down, the logs can be poked with the screw as they lay on the ground. No lifting or moving them by hand required until they are done being split. Then use the front loader to scoop and pile them up. Just another hairbrain project in my head which I have all the parts for but haven't done the work to put it together.

That's kind of funny, not sure how the PO could read O&R out of the word Robin but.... Still a very cool looking unit. I've been looking for an old Tanaka generator but just haven't found the right one. Are you going to keep it?

Yes, for the aluminum vane. The plastic vanes do not have that bend in them. Which type of vane does your engines have?

I've had some that tend to stick but most of the time the problem was the governor vane being bent or the carb gummed up so the butterfly shaft was sticky. Also needed to bend that little butterfly wing up a little too so it didn't hit the carb body.

Now that's a serious garden tractor! Appears to be VERY well built and just a smaller version of the big boys. Can you tell us more about it? year, make, engine, horse power, ect? And more pics? The closest thing we have to that over here is the Economy Power King.

Thanks again for sending me that link! The seller was very slow to respond to any communication when you first sent me the link but finally did. It took a while but finally got him to sell it for a reasonable price. Darren had to call him since he posted his phone # otherwise I may still be working at it. Now I just need the O&R package I sent to Darren, to actually show up at his door. He sent the Turbair a day after I sent his stuff and it was delivered in 4 days, his package has been out there for almost 2 weeks and may be stuck in customs.

Here's a cool little cable winch that made it's way into my collection. I usually like to keep them original but this one will probably end up getting a new paint job. It's kind of heavy and awkward to carry but can't find any where a handle would have been either.

Finally scored me a Turbair with the help of member Darmic1. The seller refused to ship it to the U.S. so Darren helped me out. In the process of it all, we made a trade of O&R tools so some U.S. tools are now headed to the U.K. I'm looking forward to breaking it down, giving it a good cleaning and a complete refurbish. Now on the hunt for a canister which was used for the chemical fog so if anyone has any idea of what they looked like or the type that might fit into the connection, please let me know. It appears it would have been a pressurized can. These sprayer/foggers have a VERY unique and interesting carb set up where they extended the diaphragm pump assembly away from the carb body.

Those compressors are rare and command a good price when found. It's my O&R "Holy Grail" and have yet to find one!

Did you contact Joe about a piston? I can take a look and see if I have one too.

Looks good! Does it leave marks or dig into the cylinder? I've been using a strap wrench but that has the potential to bend or break the cooling fins. Luckily, haven't had a problem yet but I like your idea too.