Wallfish

I don't know either, that technical stuff is your area. I just think they put a different decal on the same engine to increase the HP. I haven't noticed any major differences other than the engines with the 10mm plug hole are the early engines. To get the most power out of your engines, I'd suggest a rebuild with new rings and seals. Making it "tight" with the best compression and no case leaks should give you the best performance. It will also make your engines more dependable and start easier.

Yeah, some can be a real PITA and even more difficult without that clip. Having throttle control also makes the carb adjusting more difficult compared to just running at full speed.

Never saw a drilled hole exhaust before. For the throttle, there should be a clip which holds the conduit in place. It is placed between the carb body and the conduit and centered between the 2 tabs which the conduit runs through. I'll see if I can get you a pic if yours is missing. The clip can be used to hold it in the correct position so it doesn't stick wide open. The cable needs to be straight and adjusted so it doesn't allow that to happen.

I noticed on the 3 blade prop outboard I have, the exhaust is released right in front of the prop. Not sure why they did that since it would seem to cause cavitation. The other 2 outboards pipe the exhaust behind the prop which makes more sense.

Ah Ha, now I see. That sounds like you have very interesting trips. Here's a diagram for the recoil parts.

On the tip of the chrome handle is a white button. That is your "stop" button which grounds the points to stop the engine. You'll need to remove that handle and check for a condenser too. It should be inside the bottom of the handle where it mounts to the saw. This is a unique setup compared to other tools. Looks like the wires were pulled from the condenser so it may need to be rewired to work correctly. You might want to separate the fuel/oil tank and clean it out. Probably has quite a bit of gunk in there. You can make a new gasket from the sheets of gasket material they sell at most auto parts stores. Remove the air cleaner and check for old foam. If in there, it will get sucked into the engine when you try to start it so it needs to be cleaned out. Check the spool inside the recoil and spin it to see if the spring is still intact. If it is, then you just need a new rope and a handle to fix it. DO NOT DRILL OUT OR REMOVE THE RIVET which holds that little cup, which is the spool bearing. The spool can be removed without separating that bearing from the housing. Also not a bad idea to open up that clutch/gear case, bet it's dry and will need to be cleaned and greased. If you plan to use this saw to cut wood, you might be disappointed. These are better off used as a collector's item. It will work, since that's what it was designed to do but may not perform very well.

No big deal about posting here, just like to keep the information where it can be found easier in the future. Post some pics under the Chip A Saw thread so we can take a look at what you got

Nice rescue! If they did just a little research before tossing it, they would have discovered these saws sell for pretty good money! NOS saws have sold for $500 +

No, but you can get a used one from member Webhead. He's the same guy who sells the carb diaphragms on ebay. Try sending him a private message for what you need

Sounds like a Chip-A-Saw. Thought you had a Mustang since you posted under this thread. Hard to find ANY parts for those except for the engine. Does it look like one of these? You should post questions and pics under those topics, if so http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1379-chip-a-saw/?hl=%2Bchip+%2Bsaw http://myoldmachine.com/topic/1380-chip-a-saw/?hl=%2Bchip+%2Bsaw

WOW! Just like Ian said, it didn't look like much in a pile of parts but you did a beautiful job saving that old iron!

OOPs, looks like I need to change that one from "Push to Stop" to "Press to Stop" I guess you swing these back and forth but they are kind of short, I'm only 5' 7" and it seems a little short for me so anyone over 6 ft would have a sore back after using it.

This engine was also completely disassembled, cleaned and rebuilt with new parts, seals ect. but that's for another thread for restoring an engine.

The cardboard insulator piece was warped from moisture and originally rubbed the fan. I soaked it in water until somewhat soft and then clamped it between 2 pieces of flat steel to dry. Heated it with a torch to speed up the drying process and it came out flat as a pancake like it should be.

Here's a drawing for the generator parts

I don't, only these jpeg pics. BUT, I'll get around to getting them into PDF format, eventually

Halicki Skateboard. Not mine, just web pics

Not the best but here it is. Click the pics to expand them

Here's a manual. Comes as a folded booklet so some views are upside down an sideways but it can be printed and folded if you want one to go with your engine ChickenPowermanual.pdf

Thanks David! I was trying to post the ENTIRE thread but it would not allow me to do it with ALL the pics and gifs copied into it. At least we have the vitals posted! And Thanks Again to Laserscottman for doing this in the first place. It was by far, the most viewed thread on our old forum. Testing check valve Once it's all back together use a piece of fuel line connected to the inlet and try to blow in it. It should only allow air to pass when the primer button is pushed. If it's allowing air to pass otherwise it's not sealing and therefore not check valving. Some carbs allow the cover to push down on the little arm ever so slightly too. I typically don't use a paper gasket along with the diaphragm but I do add one when this condition occurs. It's an easy solve compared to trying to bend that little arm.

VERY NICE find! It's a Rough Grass Cutter I had one of these shipped over the pond and thought I'd might never see another. I also started to try and remake the labels for when ever I get around to painting it. Here are some that were made using Microsoft paint program so the edges are not as crisp as I'd like but should work if you want to get someone to make them for you.

Here are some pics of things found on the web in which I have no idea of their intended use or application.

Courtesy of Danookster

Yes, the disc sits directly on the arm. The clear check valve gasket sits against the diaphragm body so it valves the little hole going to the carb body. Here's a carb drawing showing all the parts. The little bearing ball is a must have so check your carb to make sure it is still in there if you think it might be missing. No worries on ANY questions, that's why we're here!

Now the last cover for the generator can be removed from the engine. Remove the 4 screws holding the cover to the engine. Be careful after removing those screws! The induction section of the engine is also held on by these screws and can easily separate from the engine. There are roller bearings inside that can easily fall all over when that section of the engine is removed. Not usually a problem if you're ready for them but a real pain searching for them when they fly out and you're not ready. I used a small screwdriver to separate the pieces without removing the induction section from the engine.