Wallfish

Here's an older version Amp Champ model 4750. Came without an engine so it's not technically correct but they all look the same to most people anyway. The generator's cast housing is heavier and thicker compared to the newer versions and it also has a rough surface from the sand casting. Bottom bends in the stand are facing out verses facing in, like the newer versions.

That #6 certainly looks like that's it and it states that normal 110v US plugs will fit into it. Jam one in there Joe and let us know how it works out

Is that a Canadian thing? I've seen curved blades for twist lock plugs but don't ever remember seeing a 2 prong 110v curved plug. Wonder if you can just make one from the twist lock type if you can't something that fits.

Not sure where this fuel tank came from but I was using it as an engine test stand before I found this engine. This tank had one of the air ports plugged so it can be used as a pressurized tank. The exhaust has a port on the manifold to pressurize the tank. The cover for the crank is copper pipe parts but appears to be made professionally. I put a 16 or 18 inch prop and spinner on it so it should really screw some air! Never did fire it up but I may get her going for this years upcoming engine shows, it would be fun to demonstrate it.

Water cooled head and converted to run RC glow fuel with Octura carb and glow plug

Nice project! Can't wait to see what you do with it. I have a larger one ( The Stickler ) and thought about using a hydraulic motor to power it through a 25:1 gearbox and attaching it to the bucket of my backhoe. With the screw pointing down, the logs can be poked with the screw as they lay on the ground. No lifting or moving them by hand required until they are done being split. Then use the front loader to scoop and pile them up. Just another hairbrain project in my head which I have all the parts for but haven't done the work to put it together.

That's kind of funny, not sure how the PO could read O&R out of the word Robin but.... Still a very cool looking unit. I've been looking for an old Tanaka generator but just haven't found the right one. Are you going to keep it?

Yes, for the aluminum vane. The plastic vanes do not have that bend in them. Which type of vane does your engines have?

I've had some that tend to stick but most of the time the problem was the governor vane being bent or the carb gummed up so the butterfly shaft was sticky. Also needed to bend that little butterfly wing up a little too so it didn't hit the carb body.

Now that's a serious garden tractor! Appears to be VERY well built and just a smaller version of the big boys. Can you tell us more about it? year, make, engine, horse power, ect? And more pics? The closest thing we have to that over here is the Economy Power King.

Thanks again for sending me that link! The seller was very slow to respond to any communication when you first sent me the link but finally did. It took a while but finally got him to sell it for a reasonable price. Darren had to call him since he posted his phone # otherwise I may still be working at it. Now I just need the O&R package I sent to Darren, to actually show up at his door. He sent the Turbair a day after I sent his stuff and it was delivered in 4 days, his package has been out there for almost 2 weeks and may be stuck in customs.

Here's a cool little cable winch that made it's way into my collection. I usually like to keep them original but this one will probably end up getting a new paint job. It's kind of heavy and awkward to carry but can't find any where a handle would have been either.

Finally scored me a Turbair with the help of member Darmic1. The seller refused to ship it to the U.S. so Darren helped me out. In the process of it all, we made a trade of O&R tools so some U.S. tools are now headed to the U.K. I'm looking forward to breaking it down, giving it a good cleaning and a complete refurbish. Now on the hunt for a canister which was used for the chemical fog so if anyone has any idea of what they looked like or the type that might fit into the connection, please let me know. It appears it would have been a pressurized can. These sprayer/foggers have a VERY unique and interesting carb set up where they extended the diaphragm pump assembly away from the carb body.

Those compressors are rare and command a good price when found. It's my O&R "Holy Grail" and have yet to find one!

Did you contact Joe about a piston? I can take a look and see if I have one too.

Looks good! Does it leave marks or dig into the cylinder? I've been using a strap wrench but that has the potential to bend or break the cooling fins. Luckily, haven't had a problem yet but I like your idea too.

I've never seen those brackets before either

Too bad someone hacked away on that engine. Did you make that tool for removing the cylinder?

Here's why he's looking for all those front ends and walks with a limp.

That guy seems friggin excited about those tractors but better not let the kids watch this one with all that bad F@#king language, eh.

I have a similar model, a Mark II but never opened it up. The tank has to split somewhere and like most O&R equipment, you'll need to dismantle quite a bit of it to get at the part you need to fix. I know the oil pumps in the Mustang saws get caught up when the pump's piston gets pushed in too far but can easily be "unstuck" through the filler hole with a small screwdriver. This seems to occur when the tank has been left dry for long periods with no oil in it. You might be able to do the same thing if the problem is that it's stuck in the pushed position.

I don't know either, that technical stuff is your area. I just think they put a different decal on the same engine to increase the HP. I haven't noticed any major differences other than the engines with the 10mm plug hole are the early engines. To get the most power out of your engines, I'd suggest a rebuild with new rings and seals. Making it "tight" with the best compression and no case leaks should give you the best performance. It will also make your engines more dependable and start easier.

Yeah, some can be a real PITA and even more difficult without that clip. Having throttle control also makes the carb adjusting more difficult compared to just running at full speed.

Never saw a drilled hole exhaust before. For the throttle, there should be a clip which holds the conduit in place. It is placed between the carb body and the conduit and centered between the 2 tabs which the conduit runs through. I'll see if I can get you a pic if yours is missing. The clip can be used to hold it in the correct position so it doesn't stick wide open. The cable needs to be straight and adjusted so it doesn't allow that to happen.

I noticed on the 3 blade prop outboard I have, the exhaust is released right in front of the prop. Not sure why they did that since it would seem to cause cavitation. The other 2 outboards pipe the exhaust behind the prop which makes more sense.