Wallfish

Had to pull the tire off because the hub slid into the trans so took a couple pics of the frame. You can see the tire has chaffed the hydro hose. Doesn't show the attaching real good because it's tight in there but I had this drawing because others asked how the hoe is attached. Drawing doesn't show the 2 vertical pieces welded to the 6" angles but you can see them in the pics. The back of the hoe frame has eight tabs welded on and uses four 3/4 inch pins which go through the vertical pieces to hold the whole thing on. The sub-frame I built is attached to the loader sub-frame with six 3/4 bolts which pinch the trans case near the axles, a 3/4 inch bolt where the hitch normally attaches on the rear of the trans and attaches to the top of the trans under the seat with two 3/8 bolts through a 1/2" thick piece of steel.

Just happened to see this pic on the WHCC site. Pic is from the WH show when I was demonstrating the hoe in the parade.

Nice addition!

My friend Jim (usedtoolman) really hooked me up. He is a talented, retired machinist with nice shop full of tools and was able to machine a completely new shaft. Also made a new heavier spacer and installed 2 new bearings. Got it installed but still need to give it a test run, hopefully tomorrow.

Does this mean you're planning to attend the big show next year? I've had it there a few times but not every year I've gone. It's very heavy to tow for a 7 hour trip (one way). Not taking it this year so I probably will next year. I really need to pull it completely apart and go through it for some overdue maintenance. Some of the pins are worn and I heard some cracking in there like a weld has broken. It puts a good beating on the tractor too so there are a few things to do there as well. It's a pain in the A to do and will take lots of time so maybe I can get to it this fall.

The original was sold at the big Wheel Horse show in Pennsylvania a couple years ago to the president of the WHCC. I kinda miss it so I decided to build another one close to original as I can. Hope to have it done by the end of June so I can take it to the big WH show to see it's older brother. Here's a pic of the progress so far. Got the lowered front axle done, most of the frame welded up, most of the offset steering and the firewall.

You are correct. I didn't like the swivel and lift seat idea because the hoe would have to set farther off the back of the tractor. I wanted it tight as possible so I made the tank and valves swivel back and forth. The valves can be pulled towards the operator when the seat is flipped up, then push them back to drop the seat down. For small jobs, I just kneel on the seat.

These are when the power and utility lines to the house were put underground. Trench was about 150 foot long by 4 foot deep.

more pics of the machine.These were back from when the back hoe was built. Loader is factory

So the wife is always pestering me to work on the "Honey Do" list. She also says I should use those tractors instead of reading about tractors! So...... Since RedSquare is down today, out came the backhoe for some work. Thought I would post over here since I still have the need to read about tractors, engines and machines. Needed to remove a large 12 foot Forsythia bush. She wants to do a small garden in this area and this thing took up quite a bit of room. Had to dig a trench around the base, hooked up a chain to the front end bucket and yanked it out. Put a beating on the hoe with some of larger roots and rocks but got it done. She hasn't decided if the others will need to go yet so I may be back at again next week.

I discovered some problems with this machine. The channel for the auger drill carriage to ride up and down in was bent and bowed. That needed to be removed and bent back into shape so the carriage would not wobble around while drilling. It was causing the hole to widen out and allow the dirt to fall back into the hole instead of falling out to the sides. Then I noticed a worn bearing in the auger drive. Turned out that one of the bearings was completely blown apart and also discovered the shaft which drives the auger drill is cracked along the length of the keyway. Thought about cutting a V into the crack and welding it but decided to have a new shaft made. Good thing I know a retired machinist with a shop full of machines.

Powered with an old CCK series Onan.

While searching ads for a hand held earth auger to do some fence posts, I stumbled across an ad for this machine. DIG R MOBILE earth auger machine. Found it very interesting, went to look at it and impulse bought it. I don't really have a need for this much hole digging machine but I'm a sucker for old cool machines. Hopefully I can find some side work for it to help pay the bill. Everything works but it needs some TLC to get everything tightened up so it drills straight. Made in the 60s by a company called General. Came with it's own factory custom trailer. Just thought I'd share some pics.

I would have seen this quicker if posted in the O&R section Very hard to tell what the original application was but if the recoil is original to the engine, it was from a Sears chainsaw. The recoil decal is set at an angle for a chainsaw application. Going by the newer style coil, it's probably a 1hp engine.

Haven't got any replies back from PM's sent to him April 12 and it also shows he has not read any of them since that date as well. We had been communicating quite a bit about O&R equipment and he usually replies back within a few days or so. Hope he's OK

My first car was a 1972 Buick Riviera. Bought it cheap from my girlfriends uncle and borrowed the money from my parents. It was a big luxury car with a 454 ci engine. Suck'n gas and Haul'n ass! Don't have any pics of that car but this one looks just like it

Glad to see you got them back together! The PM I sent should help with how to get them going. How fun was the gearbox for the trimmer? First one I did was a pain because those little rollers kept falling out.

Welcome to the forum! I have an engine setup with all the Octura stuff for the drive except the rod wth U-joints to connect the engine to the outdrive. Also bought a complete boat off ebay but the seller never shipped it so I had to go through the B.S. of getting my money back.

I wonder if something like a diamond burr would work? Just to kind of polish it. Maybe they make a finer grit? Something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/600-grit-30-DIAMOND-BURR-BITS-1-8-FOR-DREMEL-rotary-tools-glass-metal-Ceramics-/161255991787

I've had plenty of issues with those small ones too. What do you think about removing a very tiny bit of material from the seat the ball sits in?

That's a clothing iron used by tailors in the old days. They can't smash the clothes with a hammer when they get frustrated (like us engine guys do with mechanical things), so they hack them up with that contraption! Looks great Jim, certainly one of the strangest looking chainsaws ever made.

Motorcycle engine connected to a huge fan blade, an airfoil with strings attached and some straps to hold it on! What could go wrong? Something like this could be fun! If set up proper, it doesn't necessarily need to be a boat either. Or, how about a Wheel Horse hover craft? Don't think that's been done yet.

Hold my beer and watch this! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!

When the fuel tank is located above the carb, the primer button isn't really necessary so I could see not needing one for a chicken power. Usually those buttonless diaphragm caps are seen on the early engines. Not sure what the deal is with yours but someone could've changed the carb or just the cap. I might have a spare cap with a button if you want to change it.

Believe it should have a primer button. A very similar unit was called a Life-Sav-r and had a water pump that connected to it as well. I don't know the exact particulars because I don't have one.