Anglo Traction

That's good Chris!. Although I did leave some of it there . I'll probably arrange another visit soon anyway. On the subject of scrapping and salvage, I've now accumulated several bits of Villiers Mk2 (Midget) engines from Donor Machines with some good bits from each. The Sidewheel ATCO mentioned most recently had a seized solid engine and very corroded (on right in Pic), but after pulling the Cylinder, I found a 0.030" oversize Piston. Yep, it has had a re-bore in the past and although the Cylinder was Shot with heavy rust, the Cast Iron Piston cleaned up good, if a little scored. The Bottom end of the Donor 14" ATCO Mower's engine is in very good condition despite being original and 61 years old !(left in pic). Several noticeable differences in Crankcase design between the two- I have one fairly decent spare Cylinder, so my plan is to find someone to re-bore it +0-030". I should then be able to build a very good Engine without too much expense for a future project and will retain all the correct serial/date marks for 1954. ......Just have to suss out what the output end Clutch Housing is sitting on , taper or threaded ?. No Keyway visible . Will have to make a decision soon about refurbishing the Original 'Grass Catcher' that was an optional extra,.... yep even got that as well!.

.................Wonder how many Pilots have said that in the past?. Very nice Norm. Like the Sandwich Box ! ......Can't be for Tools, you shouldn't need any after that Rebuild

Stickers look good Norm. Did Mark make them with Chrome/Silver?. You Teaser.......making us wait

Courtesy of Alan on here for noticing a derelict version of this Mower project at his friend's and probably the same one Chris had seen?, I now have a source of a few salvageable spare parts from this- After fully reducing the machine to a pile of Rusty bits, I found some parts that were preserved in copious amounts of grease and unexposed are in better shape than on my Mower ! . This Mower is a couple of years younger (1960ish) than mine and a few noticeable design changes, but I can still deduce things like- which holes in the Deck Panel on mine for example, should not be there and were done by the previous owner with the modifications made to it. One good point on this Donor Mower is that the Wheel/Tyres show the original Tread Pattern, which also means they are greater in diameter !- Like most things in this game, there is always the 'Trade Off' and these have more cuts and marks in them with the raised lettering worn off on the outside, but a lot of that can be invisibly repaired. The Ratchet Free Wheel Nuts, the Pinions and fixings are all useable. As for the Cylinder (Reel), well it is just possible it could be used, but it is different. This is where I believe that ATCO possibly acknowledged there was a design fault in the original (mine) where the Blades/knives kept breaking and they redesigned it and this is the revised version. The Blades/Knives are still the same robust thickness of 5/32" (4mm), but they have added an extra Web (to 6) on the Spindle to reduce the distance between the Webs improving its strength overall- Still playing the waiting game for a response on the situ with the original one

I think I know where your at with the frustrations of finding problems on a project, whether they are 'Bodges' or 'Let Downs'. Must be like searching for Needle in a Haystack if you have no Model/Spec to work to. Lets hope one surfaces for you.

Look's like someone has made a right 'Pig's Ear' of that Flywheel Taper, Keyway and Key in the past. Would advise throwing that key away & replace it. I don't want to spend your money for you, but it may be worth starting a list of bits you're going to need. If the list grows, it may be worth seeing if you can obtain all the parts from U.S , either via a member on RS, or a single retailer in one batch to keep shipping/duty costs down.. The original Key has a step cut out in it (most aftermarket ones haven't). Still available- Google or Auction search Tecumseh 30884 . Points, Condenser and coil are all still available. What are you stuck on?.

Sorry Tom, I was a bit slow compiling my post and have duplicated what you said

A couple of points for you to consider James now your tackling this by going deeper into the engine. Aluminium Bore Engines are prone to bad maintenance, i.e. lack of regular Oil changes is the major failing. Your Engine may only need a new set of Rings, depends on the amount of wear and the condition like scoring. There is no facility to use a 'Screw In' Bolt and Puller on this Flywheel. There is a set procedure to do this, and again, it is covered in detail in the Service Manual. It also needs to be done with care to avoid damage. Flywheel key condition is also important on this model. Basically, it involves 2 pieces of Tapered Wood tapped in between the Crankcase and the Flywheel to pull it out towards the Nut and the End of the Crank/nut is sharply hit with a Wooden Mallet or a metal Hammer with a thick rag between it and the nut. The Flywheel will free from the taper and the nut prevents it from dropping on the floor and shattering (or your foot). Most of the Carbon there will scrape off with just a sharpened wooden Lolly Stick, or a piece of soft copper, as it is saturated with Oil (that's why your Piston is so clean on top). I always prefer to use a scraper that is of softer material than the parent metal. If you remove the Valves, you must check and note orientation of the Springs carefully and they need to be refitted the right way up if they are of the 'Damper Style', which is highly likely. The Manual will show you all this. I clean the Valves with a Small wire brush in a Drill. Careful with the Stem length that runs in the Guides. I assume you just want to clean, regrind/lap and refit these?. Getting the Valve Clearances correct may involve careful grinding and finishing the ends of Stems where they contact the Valve Lifters (Cam Followers). Cleanliness is paramount. Also, don't throw the original Carb away. I will have it and return it to new condition as a spare.

Hello Gareth, I don't know if your aware, but some of those Halfords Car Spray paints are not fuel proof. I would hate for you to see your perfectly finished Fuel Tank ruined by a spillage. Will be well worth testing on a spare panel piece. If it is not resistant, then use some of their Fuel Proof Lacquer to seal it and the Decals like I did on my ATCO Tank. If you are aware, then forgive my assumption of doubt. Regards. Richard.

As Norm says, great job on the Tank Gareth and good progress !. Can't help with the rotten Exhaust and the Crank Case cleaning has no real 'Short Cut'. My effort on the 72 Genset project was all elbow grease with various grades of Wet or Dry with a 'T' Cut polish, but perhaps was not in as Bad-a-Condition as yours. To get the powdery white corrosion and dirt off, maybe use the green scouring pads with some Stainless Steel sink (cream) Cleaner mixed with washing up liquid ( Don't leave it on too long as it will stain the Alloy). Old Toothbrushes help to get into the awkward areas and rinse off with more soapy water.

Couple of nice attachments there Charlie. Like the Cultivator. Should look even better when you've finished with them....... I've no idea where you got them from !

Ok James, As you haven't been inside the Carb and it is a Series 1, then I suspect the Float and/or Valve is causing a flooding issue and the 'Blow Back' . Idle and run issues are caused by dirt and clogged passages which cause problems adjusting settings. Overhaul kits for these include Welch plugs which have to be removed/replaced to access some passageways. There is also a Metering Rod inside one of these which can get stuck with dirt. Kits are still available and again, if it is a Series 1, then I have a NOS Boxed Brass Carb Float you can have. In addition to the Engine numbers, if you can post a few pics of the Carb with the Filter removed, I may be able to confirm it easier. Here's one of the Engine/Carb I had to deal with (although the linkage will be different) to possibly help with I.D. -

Well James, H60 Techies and their Series 1 Lauson Carbs can be a challenge. My only credentials with these was to revive one that was derelict for a good 25 years with a solid varnished up Carb, missing parts and no spark. Got it running, but only after a top end and Valve refurb and new points/Condenser. Have you been working on the engine at all, I.e. set the timing, stripped and cleaned the Carb?. My initial suspicion is the Carb. Have you referred to the Engine Manual for instructions on Carb servicing?. I would need your Engine Numbers to see what Carb you have and go from there if no one else local to you can help.

Don't go out of your way Chris, I may well be sorted for a 'Fall Back' now, thanks to Alan . Norm, Your not telling me you've got Busses up there as well as Hedges !.

If your stack is that loud, maybe some Ear Defenders . I'm sure all would agree there's always a few little niggling issues with a project to 'iron out'. Nothing radical on your list. Looking forward to seeing it all 'Stickered Up' . .

Another Milestone this afternoon. Fired up the engine . Burst into life on the 2nd pull and no smoke ! . Had a small fuel leak at the Carb Banjo, found it was a faulty Fibre Washer. Runs fine from Idle to mid Revs, which is all it will do for a Litre of fuel burn until the Rings bed in. Started up 4 times, all on 1st pull and have now got enough heat into it to cure the VHT Paint. Must admit the use of the Aspen Fuel has a very pleasant smell, both neat and when burn.

I stripped, cleaned and repaired this Carb so you can possibly see the bits you may need a little clearer-

So how many have you seen on your Travels Chris?. Any pics or info on their age/condition?. Only a matter of time before a few creep out of the Hedgerows, a bit like busses!

You need to either inspect the Coil to see if it has the part number printed on it, or check the dimensions. You then compare it to the versions offered on one of the Parts Website links I gave you. I reckon it could be the M1634E size as stated at the bottom of the page on this link- http://www.villiersparts.co.uk/ignition.html As for your Carb, it should be a Villiers Junior Model. Underneath the Knurled Screw-on Cable/Slide Cap of the Carb, you should see V508C/1 'raised cast' on the body. This is a standard type for this size Villiers and a version of it is also used on Seagull Outboards. An example is in this pic- The one on the left is the type you (should) have. The Air Filter is just a screw-on Bell Mouth unit with a Mesh Screen. (This Carb will be stripped/refurbished when I get the time). The other is the Seagull Outboard version from a 40+. Doesn't have a screen as there is not much dust and chaff on water!. Don't be tempted to swap Needle Valves from various Carb types as they are not the same. So your Carb internal parts are all displayed and listed on Page 9 of the Villiers Manual I placed in the Downloads section for you. You can then order by Part Number if required to replace parts. Regards

Look's like you have a few challenges with that Frame Gareth. A good project. I know nothing about Hydro Units, so I'll follow this and try to learn some. Always good to be able to obtain Manuals to go with these projects. It makes the restored subject more complete. I know it's a bit of a nuisance when you want to get on with something and your health won't let you, but just chip away at it, a little at a time.

Spent some time on the 'No Cut' Mower to sort the final bits on the Motor etc. Now got a good bright Spark after a few healthy Pulls. Did a final Tank Flush with neat petrol (shiny clean inside). I put a mesh filter on the Tap in the end, same as the others shown in post on page 4. Hope there are no issues using Apsen4 fuel on these old engines?, but to compensate, I thought I'd treat it to some good ole' original spec Castrol XXL as listed in the Mower's User Manual. Maybe I should check the wind direction when I'm ready to start it up initially, as I suspect it will produce a nice white smoke screen briefly .

Hi Mark, Got a long list of options on my Workshop board I'm going through. Ruled that out as the blades are currently 15thou away from the underside of the Deck Panel. That clearance is too minimal for my liking, even if I opted for one of Wrispin's suggestions of putting a spacer between the Bottom Blade Carrier to solve the other interference issue. Paint colour is OLD JCB Yellow (not the later one). The colour was used by Ford and named Lemon Yellow. JD Yellow was too pale. Hello Nigel, I admit I did not even know they used the process on Mower Cylinders. something to look into as an option. Always grateful for suggestions thanks Norm, irrespective of distance, but won't rule it out yet. I really prefer to be able to deal with a Company or Service provider in person now and perhaps within a distance that my little 16year old Ford Fiesta is comfortable with. Absolute last resort to break it up. This Cylinder, Blade and screws alone have set me back £260 so far. I found pics of your set up elsewhere...impressed!. I may well be asking for a quote. I would dearly like to be able resolve this challenge by sorting it myself. Good suggestion and I understand your thinking. I just don't have the space and materials to fabricate the likes, unless I (foolishly) attempt to extricate my Son's Gymnasium from the other Garage !. I doubt I would have a use for more Cylinder grinding of that size. This one has dampened my enthusiasm for Cylinder Mowers . Well I have at least had my Email acknowledged and has been passed on ready for the return of Staff from Holidays on 8th June !. Watch this space. Thanks for all the responses and suggestions....appreciated. I've refitted the Axles and Wheels so I can move it about easily and wheel it outside for when I attempt to start it up. Noticed the Spark is a little weak, so going over all the ignition and timing again before mixing up/filling with fuel. Regards

Searching through them (Mower Services) so far has produced no positive results. They can only do Sharpening/Honing etc., no large quantity metal removal. Hate to think what they would charge judging by some prices just for a Hone!. My nearest Engineering company saved me the job of enquiring by publishing their Machinery equipment/facilities online and included all their Capacities. If only Ian. This Cylinder is 32inches in length, the 5 blades are 24 inches long. 16lbs (7.26kgs) in weight. Would need a Lathe that could cope with that 'Between Centres' and provide adequate clearance over the Carriage/Cross Slide and to be able to mount a Grinder that will traverse and clear each end of the Blades. Also the Lathe would need significant cleaning after due to the damage the grinder dust can cause, hence unlikely to find a company prepared to do it,. I worked out that there needs to be 1.88 cubic inches of metal removed in total !. No response from Garfitts yet. May just have to break it up for scrap and sell off the useable parts if I can't find an economic resolution.

Been undoing all the rebuild work to remove the Cylinder- Found it is a full 1/4inch greater in diameter than was specified and is why the blades are fouling the Bottom Blade Adjusters and just clears the underside of the Deck Panel. Don't hold any hopes of assistance from the Fabricators, but have made enquiries. If no luck, I need to find someone to grind 1/8" off the Radius !! . Can't afford to pour more big money into this, so I'll wait and see.