Anglo Traction

Another Milestone this afternoon. Fired up the engine . Burst into life on the 2nd pull and no smoke ! . Had a small fuel leak at the Carb Banjo, found it was a faulty Fibre Washer. Runs fine from Idle to mid Revs, which is all it will do for a Litre of fuel burn until the Rings bed in. Started up 4 times, all on 1st pull and have now got enough heat into it to cure the VHT Paint. Must admit the use of the Aspen Fuel has a very pleasant smell, both neat and when burn.

I stripped, cleaned and repaired this Carb so you can possibly see the bits you may need a little clearer-

So how many have you seen on your Travels Chris?. Any pics or info on their age/condition?. Only a matter of time before a few creep out of the Hedgerows, a bit like busses!

You need to either inspect the Coil to see if it has the part number printed on it, or check the dimensions. You then compare it to the versions offered on one of the Parts Website links I gave you. I reckon it could be the M1634E size as stated at the bottom of the page on this link- http://www.villiersparts.co.uk/ignition.html As for your Carb, it should be a Villiers Junior Model. Underneath the Knurled Screw-on Cable/Slide Cap of the Carb, you should see V508C/1 'raised cast' on the body. This is a standard type for this size Villiers and a version of it is also used on Seagull Outboards. An example is in this pic- The one on the left is the type you (should) have. The Air Filter is just a screw-on Bell Mouth unit with a Mesh Screen. (This Carb will be stripped/refurbished when I get the time). The other is the Seagull Outboard version from a 40+. Doesn't have a screen as there is not much dust and chaff on water!. Don't be tempted to swap Needle Valves from various Carb types as they are not the same. So your Carb internal parts are all displayed and listed on Page 9 of the Villiers Manual I placed in the Downloads section for you. You can then order by Part Number if required to replace parts. Regards

Look's like you have a few challenges with that Frame Gareth. A good project. I know nothing about Hydro Units, so I'll follow this and try to learn some. Always good to be able to obtain Manuals to go with these projects. It makes the restored subject more complete. I know it's a bit of a nuisance when you want to get on with something and your health won't let you, but just chip away at it, a little at a time.

Spent some time on the 'No Cut' Mower to sort the final bits on the Motor etc. Now got a good bright Spark after a few healthy Pulls. Did a final Tank Flush with neat petrol (shiny clean inside). I put a mesh filter on the Tap in the end, same as the others shown in post on page 4. Hope there are no issues using Apsen4 fuel on these old engines?, but to compensate, I thought I'd treat it to some good ole' original spec Castrol XXL as listed in the Mower's User Manual. Maybe I should check the wind direction when I'm ready to start it up initially, as I suspect it will produce a nice white smoke screen briefly .

Hi Mark, Got a long list of options on my Workshop board I'm going through. Ruled that out as the blades are currently 15thou away from the underside of the Deck Panel. That clearance is too minimal for my liking, even if I opted for one of Wrispin's suggestions of putting a spacer between the Bottom Blade Carrier to solve the other interference issue. Paint colour is OLD JCB Yellow (not the later one). The colour was used by Ford and named Lemon Yellow. JD Yellow was too pale. Hello Nigel, I admit I did not even know they used the process on Mower Cylinders. something to look into as an option. Always grateful for suggestions thanks Norm, irrespective of distance, but won't rule it out yet. I really prefer to be able to deal with a Company or Service provider in person now and perhaps within a distance that my little 16year old Ford Fiesta is comfortable with. Absolute last resort to break it up. This Cylinder, Blade and screws alone have set me back £260 so far. I found pics of your set up elsewhere...impressed!. I may well be asking for a quote. I would dearly like to be able resolve this challenge by sorting it myself. Good suggestion and I understand your thinking. I just don't have the space and materials to fabricate the likes, unless I (foolishly) attempt to extricate my Son's Gymnasium from the other Garage !. I doubt I would have a use for more Cylinder grinding of that size. This one has dampened my enthusiasm for Cylinder Mowers . Well I have at least had my Email acknowledged and has been passed on ready for the return of Staff from Holidays on 8th June !. Watch this space. Thanks for all the responses and suggestions....appreciated. I've refitted the Axles and Wheels so I can move it about easily and wheel it outside for when I attempt to start it up. Noticed the Spark is a little weak, so going over all the ignition and timing again before mixing up/filling with fuel. Regards

Searching through them (Mower Services) so far has produced no positive results. They can only do Sharpening/Honing etc., no large quantity metal removal. Hate to think what they would charge judging by some prices just for a Hone!. My nearest Engineering company saved me the job of enquiring by publishing their Machinery equipment/facilities online and included all their Capacities. If only Ian. This Cylinder is 32inches in length, the 5 blades are 24 inches long. 16lbs (7.26kgs) in weight. Would need a Lathe that could cope with that 'Between Centres' and provide adequate clearance over the Carriage/Cross Slide and to be able to mount a Grinder that will traverse and clear each end of the Blades. Also the Lathe would need significant cleaning after due to the damage the grinder dust can cause, hence unlikely to find a company prepared to do it,. I worked out that there needs to be 1.88 cubic inches of metal removed in total !. No response from Garfitts yet. May just have to break it up for scrap and sell off the useable parts if I can't find an economic resolution.

Been undoing all the rebuild work to remove the Cylinder- Found it is a full 1/4inch greater in diameter than was specified and is why the blades are fouling the Bottom Blade Adjusters and just clears the underside of the Deck Panel. Don't hold any hopes of assistance from the Fabricators, but have made enquiries. If no luck, I need to find someone to grind 1/8" off the Radius !! . Can't afford to pour more big money into this, so I'll wait and see.

Can give you a date for the Engine which is late 1979. Kohler record it as a 'Basic Engine'. Don't know much about the Bonser Truck history, .

Afraid the engine (spec 30538) is not original Norm, so won't help with a positive I.D. Listed as a 'Service Engine'. They were probably Bulk Shelf Stock and sent out on Batch short order requests. Only other possibility is that someone swapped the Tins onto that Engine?. There should be 10 numbers in the serial number, but as Ranger says, it points to a 1988 vintage. Most of the Kohler Engines for Wheel Horse over the years were pre specified/ordered and still show in the records. That Spec number of 30538 does not even show a Starter Motor in the Parts Drawing !!! . Now if the Spec number read 30518, it would be a Wheel Horse allocation and with a Starter Motor !!.....The mystery deepens. Regards

Ok Ray, I'm hoping to get down to check it out next week. I'll post pics here for you. I definitely remember that it has the same cast Ali Deck and Fern Green paint...all in good condition, except for the pullstart........... Just can't remember the Handlebar layout !.

Hello Ray, Can you post a picture of the Mower/broken part. I know of a possible source (1980 model) if it is not urgent.

Certainly look's a good project. Love to do one of those, especially to get a chance to do a total rebuild on the wheels. Lets hope the summer is good to you, what with your 'Alfresco Workshop' !! .

Haven't found Iain's post on RS, but this may be of interest for now- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/46796-steering-boxes-ross-in-particular/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bbox

A bit more info for you, Just to clarify why your old deck/belt don't seem to match up or fit on your tractor, it is because the Deck is a 1972 model which used a different belt size to fit onto WH tractors of that age/era (prt nbr #9360 'A' Duty, 95.63inch long). Note the light duty belt type. Being fitted to your 80s Tractor, I suspect the belt (102741) was selected based on the 80s style 36" Deck and your 80s WH Tractor. The main difference was the Belt adjuster system on the front of the Tractor, as it differed from the very early 70s and possibly the main Spindle/Pulley position and size. As for your 42" SD Deck, and you have no info for it, I reckon your Deck Spindle Drive Belt should be WH Prt Nbr #6938 , HA or 4L duty and 86inches long....... (note the heavier duty type). This belt number is quoted for nearly all mid 70s - late 80s WH 42"Side Discharge Decks according to Wheel Horse and later Toro. Lets hope your Blades are sharp and balanced for now....that's another ballgame !. Regards Richard.

No Problem Paul. I've uploaded the Villiers Manual and parts list in Pdf form on here for you to download a copy, click on either Downloads in the header line, or look down the right hand side of the main screen here for Latest Files and click on it. Good pile of parts there for a Summer Project. Engine parts condition look pretty clean on the exterior. Look's like you have the expensive HT Coil (M1634). Some people have obtained the smaller HT Coil Asian Import and modified it to fit if you want to go that way. Just google Villiers Midget Ht Coil and you'll find a large amount of info on them and other rebuild hints and tips. Would like to see your progress on this. Pictures always welcome. here's a few links to parts retailers- www.Villiersparts.co.uk www.Villiersspares.co.uk www.meetens.co.uk . There are several more. Regards Richard.

Thanks Mark, Not a great deal of progress. Prepping the Rollers, a bit like watching paint dry really. They have been Treated with hardener. After having been dried, they had the blemishes filled with hard filler. I then started to seal the surface with the Varnish. I don't use brushes to apply it, as I fill the depressions first and build up a smooth surface by sanding in between coats. Takes 36hours to harden each coat before sanding. Had 3 coats so far- Should be done and ready to fit by the weekend.

Hi Paul, I can help with the Mk3 Engine info, as I've just rebuilt a 50s Villers 98cc Mk4 for my ATCO Mower. But I can't help with the machine. Suspect you first need the Engine instruction/Parts Manual- if this is what you need, I'll upload a copy to the Manuals section on here so you can download a copy. As for parts, there are several sources which I can PM you a list. Beware of any Villiers HT Coils for sale that are original Unused old stock, you need the modern alternative. Depending on which version you have will determine how much they cost ( I just happened to need the most expensive one). New engine parts are not cheap, but personally I really think these little engines are great and worth the outlay. If you plan to do a full proper restore or just get it running, would be good to see your progress on here. Regards

Very, Very nice Matt, another fine example of both your work and quality old Briggs Model. Love the Donut Carb Float !

Ok Martin, I bow to Andy's experience of 'In the Field' use of types of manufacture/material. Also Wrispin's Knowledge of Dayco Belt equivalents etc. But lets try and clear the air of uncertainty and resolve your issue. So you have a 42"side discharge Deck with no I.D and an early 80s C-125. Forget about the old 36" Deck and it's belt for now. I've checked as many 42"SD Deck model numbers from 1980 - 1986 and the predominant Belt used/recommended is #102742. There are exceptions of course, so can't define the belt required exactly. This Belt Duty is graded (in the U.S) as HA/A. and is 103" in length measured around it's Outer circumference (see image example of list below). The Belt Section size is 1/2" x 5/16" (also see image example below). So all you can do is look for a retailer that quotes the Belt part number of an Aftermarket example, rather than look for an example by length. I also suspect the majority of belts are of the conventional standard, which probably would not last as long as an Agricultural Duty one. It also only needs the slight differences of Imperial to metric measurements to render a belt as ineffective in some installations. So your situation requires you to fit the deck on your Tractor and lower it to cutting position to check the length required. You can either trial fit the Old 102741 Belt which is 96.60 inches long and see just how short it is (note - ensure belt is always on the inner groove of the PTO Bell). Or, use some rope of approx 1/2" (12.7mm) in section and ensure it is taught when you mark it for measuring. If your check reveals that the Belt #102742 of 103inches outer length is correct or very close, then you will need to order by using Wheel Horse belt number 94-2501. This number supersedes the previous one, but both are still used for I.D. The other belt number (#108834) highlighted in blue on the Wheel Horse Manual example is commonly used on REAR Discharge Decks and is only to point out just how important it is to refer to Model numbers when looking for parts. So when you have found which belt you need or length required, there is an Online site that quotes Old Wheel Horse Belts by Part Number as well as Belts by Manufacturer. So here is a link to assist your choice - http://www.beltingonline.com/ (look down the left for 'Garden Machinery Belts', click on Manufacturer, search for Wheel Horse) Lastly, before you fit the Deck, check to see if there is a number on the Deck Spindle Drive Belt. If so, please note it on here and I will see if I can narrow down the Deck Model number. Hope this helps. Regards