Anglo Traction

From what I have read, learned and tested over the years of using this process, the best Battery Charger set up is to have an older type Charger that has no 'Auto Reduction' or Cut Out. 4 Amps is about ideal, but I've obtained good results with 2.5 amps (or less) and used an Auto Reduction Charger . It just takes longer to do it's job on large pieces/panels. Power/efficiency reduces with build up of corrosion on the Anode Rod(s) and resistance increases ,so you can work with what you have if you clean the Rods regularly and keep the gap between Anode and the Work piece to a reasonably close position. A handy method I use is to have 2 sets of Anode Rods. I use one set then switch them over, but use the process to clean the old Rods, saves a lot of cleaning.

As Darren says re the Tag. The 147cc Villiers (mk15) was introduced after Dec 1953, there is also an HS version that produced 2.5bhp and had a conversion kit available for running on Paraffin (Kerosene). If the Grass Box is original to that Mower, the 'By Appointment' transfer will refer to H M Queen (Liz II) . The Handlebar Style is also a giveaway that tells us it is fairly modern (post WW11) in Atco history. It looks unmolested, so the Tag should still be there somewhere and these were used during the 50's. Another way to get a rough age on some Villiers is to inspect the Flywheel for a date stamp. This may narrow down the date a bit further, but bear in mind that Villiers 'Stock Piled' manufactured parts and so a 1953 stamped Flywheel could be on a 1955 built engine. You can get the manuals for the engine.

Ok, If it is an Osprey and 7hp, then I can offer you some help. The Engine Model, Spec and Serial nbrs on the Engine (1980) in my original Thread is 170702 - 5638-01. If you want to check further, then just count the number of Cylinder Head Bolts. If you have 9, then it should be 17cu inch 7hp............... A 5hp (14 cu in) engine has 8. I have PDF Files of both the Illustrated Parts Manual and User Manual that I can post here or send. Or, you can enter the numbers into the Briggs and Stratton Website Manuals section and download your own. The User Manual has most of the common service procedures and Data you'll need. Any other bits you need, I can check my Manual for you.

Great story. They don't end better than that eh !.

Surprised to see this old thread resurrected, but obviously served it's purpose as a reference as well. But of a challenge Rog, trying to ID the engine in that example. The Shroud look's like it has been replaced, along with the rewind starter. Problem is that the Engine numbers are stamped on the side of the (non original) Shroud. Engines in these machines of this age (70s), I believe were either 5 or 7 hp. I would need more/better images of the engine with any numbers you find. I have a workshop Manual that covers all Briggs up to 1982. Before the No Spark issue is further investigated, check you are trying to start it with the Throttle at mid position. There is a 'Kill System' that cuts the ignition at 'Throttle Closed' position. Note also that if the machine is laid on it's (carburettor) side, the Crankcase Oil will flow into the Carb and subsequently the upper cylinder/Exhaust and Air Filter via the 'Breather'. I can't be sure yet, but I don't think it has the 'Magna- Matic' system. Suspect though, it may possibly have and just need a good clean and service of the ignition system, i.e. points, condenser and Armature Air Gap checked.

Ah, now I see the Engine, it may only have a Single SU or Zenith Downdraught under that Filter. Forgot that it's likely to be a Series III .

Don't think my spares will fit Norm. Not easy to see what size it is, but look's 1/4" BSP?.

Glad to see you released it from storage and got it to yours. Assuming the Floor/Chassis is good, there is nothing that can't be fabricated on it. Superb project. I remember seeing these in the very early sixties. If your able, I would like to see an 'Under Bonnet' shot, and there should be nice pair of SUs bolted to the straight 6. Thanks for sharing.

I take no credit for the ingenuity of the attachment, as it was conceived more than half a century ago by renowned Model Engineers in this form . I just adapted it to my use/machine and so posting it on here, it will inspire others to apply a principle to fit their needs. Reckon looking back into the past can solve many problems we come across, as probably like for example Norm's Dad and mine, a lot can disappear with them .

Maybe it's the same as a Full refurb on a Garden Tractor (without an engine Hoist), or a hard starting Kohler with a Pulstart

Look's like a Slide Weight from an Exercise Machine? . So what is the total addition weight of it Norm?.

Bit limited until I get the new Glasses, but I decided to make a Classic/Vintage looking replacement Spark Plug Screw Cap. Regretfully, I had to make it to fit a modern Metric threaded Plug . I made an Indexing tool a long time ago that allowed me to make and Mark Out a lot of parts for my Traction Engine. It just bolts onto the Change Wheel Quadrant (Myford ML7) and a Mandrel that fits/locks into the end of the Spindle to carry any number toothed Change Wheel. For this job. I only needed to use the 25 toothed Spindle Driven Gear (removed the Tumbler Reverse selector Lever and Stud)- Stub of 1/2" dia Brass turned down to shape, drilled and tapped M4 . I used a 60 deg pointed lathe tool on it's side set on the C/Line and proceeded to manually pass the Tool across the face taking small light cuts to 20thou deep, then turned and locked the Lathe Spindle with the pointed screw in the next tooth groove and repeated. In progress and prior to Parting Off from the Stub- . The result is a nice clean grooved rim to grip with the fingers for tightening on the Spark Plug. I do have Knurling Wheels so I can make a Clamp type Knurling Tool, but preferred the straight grooves for this job. I'll make a BA Threaded one as well for when I find a good genuine vintage Lodge CB3 Plug for the Villiers.

That's one nice project you have there!. (insert Envy Smiley here). 1959, London registered 6/90. Interior is as you say......real good. I had an Eye Test for new glasses today, but do I see 58474 miles on the Clock?. Shame all the Dross on top creased the roof, still, at least it wasn't thrown inside it. Yeah, I also remember Green Shield Stamps. Look forward to following your progress on it.

Ah, ok. 1-0310 is listed (U.S.) as a '71' 12hp with a Kohler Engine in most WH records. So you have a Belgium-ised Model that used up surplus parts from U.S. for the Euro market. Not big deal really, as it is converted to what it should have been, albeit with a later engine.....so call it a Raider 12 and get some new Decals for it

I know nothing about modern I-phones or windows 10. To me, it look's like there is an issue with the format of the 'Portrait' image from the phone to the Window PC landscape default format ?. Both are 16-9 ratio, but are ar**s about face, so it lays the image on it's side and then embeds it that way on the Forum............Karl (nylyon) may be your saviour on this.

Should be a model 1-0300 then. Not an issue with having the 2 extra fixings for bolting the engine in, had to be done as the old engine is obsolete. Your Tractor was the last of the 'Short Frames' and was actually a Transition model. The Bonnet/Hood is the new (at the time) 'Long Hood', but the old short frame had extensions added to carry the New Hood hinges. The original Techy was mounted using an Adaptor Plate to get the right Shaft height and so the frame had very few holes predrilled for various engine types. If your not already aware, Charlie Smith has an 'Intact' example of your Tractor. here's a link to his post that has some pics if it helps at all- http://myoldmachine.com/topic/2257-wheel-horse-front-weight-bracketbox/

16:1 is good for the motor's age. I was apprehensive about using modern synthetics in these old engines and so I stick to the old mineral 30 or 40 weight. The new stuff does not have the sealing capabilities needed in the plain shaft bearings (ok for modern ball bearings and Oil sealed engines) . They changed the design of the crankcase, bearings and added Thrust bearings somewhere around 1956 and allowed a reduction in Oil-fuel ratio. Ring wear limit of > 1/32" is a common excessive smoke cause, but then a little blue haze is part of their character . I've been running several tests on certain Oils for some time with claims of corrosion to yellow metals in certain conditions..............no evidence found yet. Again, very impressed with the result of your work. Decals look superb repro's.

Look's like you made it to 3 am in the end Darren . Excellent job on the Mower. Look's the Dogz.... What fuel/Oil ratio are you using in it ?.

There were differences even within the Raider 10 range, i.e. 3 or 6 speed. The Lausen Techy Engine spec also differed with Tranny type. Raiders were marketed in U.S. from late 68- 72. They stopped using Tecumseh in 1971, so your Tractor will possibly have lights fitted as standard?. In 1972 they were an Option. Magnum Engines were not used in WH until 86 after Toro got their hands on them and ceased using so many Briggs n Strattons. So if your 10hp decals have not fallen off, you can call it a *Re-powered Raider 10 (*a term applied in the U.S). Put another set of decals on and it's your discretion .

I didn't want to be first to say that, but I agree........... It probably hasn't ever been off/de-coked in it's life Norm. Go on, give it a Birthday

As requested-

Look's good. I see it has the Cone Clutch design, is it a pre 1950 model?.

Grass still not growing yet!, maybe the maintenance people crept around and did it when I wasn't looking. When able, I carried on with the spare engine. Proper sized rings arrived- ........now fitted and good as new. Replacement (used) HT Coil received (took a flyer on the Auction site) and a new plug. So all the parts ready to assemble- All back together and the ignition and timing all done and spot-on- Er!, you may have noticed I have 2 Bronze Flywheels in the earlier pic,one with a silver Cover Plate and a Matt Black painted one. Plan is to run this engine in with 2 Flywheels on. they are not the same though. One has a standard Nut for a Kick Start Dog Ratchet, and the other is from John/Alan's Donor Mower which has the Pull Start Ring (dated 1957 by the way), The Black cover plate will allow me to check and set the Revs easily with the Laser Tacho- I'll probably go the 'Heath Robinson' route with a Frame to mount it in with a 'Victorian' look about it with lots of Brass, Copper and Nickel Silver. There will most likely be an unusual Fuel Tank and may have it driving something (stationary), so I will probably shift the progress on it to another Forum section?.

Good move Mark, lucky man. Been to Malham several times, nice, peaceful area. Does the move to there make it harder on your Commute?.