Anglo Traction

There were differences even within the Raider 10 range, i.e. 3 or 6 speed. The Lausen Techy Engine spec also differed with Tranny type. Raiders were marketed in U.S. from late 68- 72. They stopped using Tecumseh in 1971, so your Tractor will possibly have lights fitted as standard?. In 1972 they were an Option. Magnum Engines were not used in WH until 86 after Toro got their hands on them and ceased using so many Briggs n Strattons. So if your 10hp decals have not fallen off, you can call it a *Re-powered Raider 10 (*a term applied in the U.S). Put another set of decals on and it's your discretion .

I didn't want to be first to say that, but I agree........... It probably hasn't ever been off/de-coked in it's life Norm. Go on, give it a Birthday

As requested-

Look's good. I see it has the Cone Clutch design, is it a pre 1950 model?.

Grass still not growing yet!, maybe the maintenance people crept around and did it when I wasn't looking. When able, I carried on with the spare engine. Proper sized rings arrived- ........now fitted and good as new. Replacement (used) HT Coil received (took a flyer on the Auction site) and a new plug. So all the parts ready to assemble- All back together and the ignition and timing all done and spot-on- Er!, you may have noticed I have 2 Bronze Flywheels in the earlier pic,one with a silver Cover Plate and a Matt Black painted one. Plan is to run this engine in with 2 Flywheels on. they are not the same though. One has a standard Nut for a Kick Start Dog Ratchet, and the other is from John/Alan's Donor Mower which has the Pull Start Ring (dated 1957 by the way), The Black cover plate will allow me to check and set the Revs easily with the Laser Tacho- I'll probably go the 'Heath Robinson' route with a Frame to mount it in with a 'Victorian' look about it with lots of Brass, Copper and Nickel Silver. There will most likely be an unusual Fuel Tank and may have it driving something (stationary), so I will probably shift the progress on it to another Forum section?.

Good move Mark, lucky man. Been to Malham several times, nice, peaceful area. Does the move to there make it harder on your Commute?.

Superb Job Gareth. Quality work .

Home stretch Ian . Perhaps it would look out-of-place between Ride-ons , won't fit in the Car and doubt if a Tow Bar will fit on my latest . May try and find a way to drag it down to Kingsfold ?.

Should have posted for one in the Wanted section. I have very clean, undamaged, spare V508 Junior Carb Bodies. Progress and work is looking good

Reckon your in serious need of some bedtime reading material Martin !. Download yourself a copy of this and see if it helps to explain some of your Deck fitting issues- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2135-mower-rotary-42in-rd-1984-05-42mr02-om-810345r1pdf/ As we have no idea what model your Deck is, this will cover many of them about the same age, type etc. Regards

A non pictorial update on the corrective repairs. The Shiny new Piston has been installed. Had to ease the fit of the Gudgeon Pin as it was tight in the new Small End Bearing. I had swapped the new rings that were in the engine over to the new piston. Turned over real smooth by hand and nice compression. Started 2nd pull, a small amount of fine carb adjustment made it run perfectly. Vibration issue sorted. Spent most of this pm installing the back up Cylinder (Reel) and Drive parts. Now back on it's replaced wheels (and rollers). Plenty of clearance now between the Blades, Underside of Deck Panel and B/Blade adjusters. Just the fine adjustment to the cutting/scissor action do, and they already look pretty parallel to each other. On the downside, The paint is lifting around the neck of the Petrol Tank !. Must either be a pinhole in the Soldered joint, or the paint/Fuel proof lacquer did not bond to the brass well enough. Repaint job . Had over yet again!, found that the 0.030" oversized piston came back with Standard size Rings fitted !!. Good job I took them off and checked them in the new re bored Cylinder for the spare engine. Ring gap should only be a few thou, not 0.125" !. You have to be so careful nowadays, sadly, it seems you can't rely on anyone. Now we have had some rain, I'll do a test cut when the grass begins to grow again.

Was hoping to get down on Sunday, but learned again today why I don't commit to long term plans. No reliable transport for a week !!!. New-to-me Car was due to have rear Screen replaced yesterday, found they had the wrong one. Came back today with another, found it too was wrong type !. Unfortunately it was after they cut the old one out. Stuck it back in and made it temporarily watertight/secure while they went for another shot at ordering one. Got a call to say it won't arrive until about next Monday and possible install on Tuesday ...... Enjoy!. Should be good n warm with a hint of dust in the air from Dirt Turning, so pitch your Tent/Van south of the Plough Field if you can. Will be relying on picture please.

No, not cheap Darren. well not if they're the same size as the Coils in my Villiers. There are several sizes and prices vary. I need one as well, but my supplier is out of stock at the mo'.

Nice looking set of Power units you're restoring Gareth. As for B&S parts, I don't hold any, but if you need any help to ID and find a source for the bits you need, I'll be happy to help. Just need the Engine Model/Spec and Serial numbers first if you can post them up.

Hello Alain Hello Alain, I don't see any reason why not, after all, we are only checking the resistance and passing a low voltage from the Meter's battery through it. I would imagine the readings/resistance values may differ though.

Hello Darren, Common problem with old Villiers Coils. Fine copper wire and old shellac varnish to insulate it. Usually the Secondary windings that go, so to test one, it is advisable to disconnect the Coil from the Condenser first. I find it quicker to de-solder and remove the Low Tension wire from the Coil, rather than dismantle the Points box. Set your Meter to Ohms connect red lead point to the HT Lead contact point and the Black (com) lead to the steel central core Rod end (earth/ground). A serviceable Coil will produce a reading of between 3-5k ohms resistance. The primary circuit (Low Tension Coil to Points) is tested with Red lead on Coil wire contact (where is was de-soldered from) and the black lead onto the Core rod for earth/ground. Should have a reading of 0-3 ohms if good. New manufactured ones are better, as they use modern materials internally, but are identical externally. Don't be tempted to buy a New/Unused old one. Regards

Surprised to get a delivery of Goodies so soon today ! Mainly parts for the Spare 1954 engine rebuild and consists mainly of a nicely re-bored cylinder +0.030". Most importantly, the New Alloy Piston for the Mower, including Gudgeon Pin (wrist pin) and Rings!.....bonus. Checked the weight and only 4 grammes difference with the old original. Hoping to get the motor sorted and tested this week and then fit the Cylinder (reel) etc.

Er !, You (and many on here) already have lots of it Nigel and thanks, just look at the things you turn out of your workshop....Landy being the latest !. I can't do biggish projects like many of you Guys, so have to put up with the small finicky ones . Been patiently waiting for Engine bits and the good news is my wait is nearly over, they're now on the way . In the meantime and instead of finishing the Grass Catcher Supports/Cords, I thought as the weather is warm n sunny, I'd start on the construction of an item that will greatly ease the manipulation of this wide, restrictive machine. Starting with an old 1920s Oak Sideboard top I had in store- Measured up, Chopped it up, bolted, glued and screwed some strengthening planks each end, then fitted some cheap 3" Casters (2 fixed and 2 swivel). We now have the makings of a 'Transporter Trolley' that is not quite 18" (45cms) deep and 36" (96cms) wide, so it can access areas through very narrow gaps now - Just finished bonding a layer of thick rubber garage floor covering on it and only need to add a few bits to secure the mower in place while it's on and a drag handle, probably detachable. Getting the mower on is no problem, but may have to bolt a hinged Ramp on one side to get it off easier. Means I can drag it around to the back onto the lawn to finish the work in daylight and then........... test it out !.

Hello Ray, The standard bearings for the front wheels have only one Shield on the outside/Flanged side, so that the inside is greased via the nipple (Zerk). Replacement bearings can have double shields, but do not require greasing via the nipple for their life. You can carefully remove and dispose of the Inner Shield of the 'Double Shielded' bearings and clean out, re pack with grease if you wish. You can then grease later via the Nipple (Zerk). The bearings themselves are not best quality (i.e. precision ground) and are light/medium duty pressed/folded metal type. I purchased mine from the U.S. some time ago at a reasonable price. If you need to buy replacements/spares, have a good look around Auction Sites and Google search for best price/quality. The good ones for example are made by Heim in U.S., but I couldn't find them at the time. Part numbers are Toro 110513 or 251210. 3/4" bore x 1.3/8" flanged single outer (or double) Shield. I have a couple of (tired) used ones if you get real desperate.

Whoa Gents, Thanks , Just got back from the Chinese Restaurant (me driving) and just got my 'Laughing Gear' onto my first Rum and Coke !. Yeah lots of useful pressys, many were 'Minion' themed. Treated myself to a pressy also by buy a new-to-me Car the other day, so ' Ole Fester' is taking a back seat before going to a new home. Wallet is crying and the Moths have headed for the nearest light. Would have also preferred to have received some Villiers Engine parts as well, but we mustn't ask for the impossible eh!. Thanks again for all the B'day wishes.

Ok , If I remember rightly, the manual says there should be a 5thou end float and the Washer/Shim should be on the outside by the 'C' Clip. I have 1 good 50thou, 1 not so good 50Thou and 4- 11thou shims , all 3/4 bore, but the 11 thou shims are 1.1/8" O/D, but fine to use. Let me know what you need via PM and your Address and I'll stick them in the post for you no charge.

Thanks Norm, better than I expected, think I got away with it. Hi Ian Ta!, I think they would call 'us Ilk's' that turn our hands to most things as a- J.O.A.T.M.O.N ? . ......................oh!, I can't grind a Cylinder down to the correct size.....then again nor can some professionals.

Hello Ray, I can't remember what Model you may have?. Does it have Bolt/Washer (pre 76ish) or 'C' Clip (post 76) Retainers for the wheels?. I may have enough shims to sort your dilemma. Good to see your trying to set them up correctly

Finished Stitching up the canvas to frame over the weekend after pinching the base edges (makes a change from me being stitched up!) . The before pics in post 98 near the bottom of page 5. As now- Going to string the next job out (no pun intended). Probably take the support cord from both frame corners of the 'Catcher' to a single point on the Handlebar joint, the cord needs to be adjustable. At the mercy of 'Villiers parts' for a delivery so I can change the Piston over and fit the Cylinder/Reel.

Real glad they fit your pulleys and hope they hold up long time ok. Still can't find any part number or dimension change anywhere. WH Bearing Part number 101480 only quotes the dims I have?. Here are my Pulleys and original Bearings. The pulley 'cast-in' part numbers are 101762/3. Maybe your assumption of Belgium producing/obtaining some pulleys with a different size metric bearing recess is possible .