Anglo Traction

Superb Job Gareth. Quality work .

Home stretch Ian . Perhaps it would look out-of-place between Ride-ons , won't fit in the Car and doubt if a Tow Bar will fit on my latest . May try and find a way to drag it down to Kingsfold ?.

Should have posted for one in the Wanted section. I have very clean, undamaged, spare V508 Junior Carb Bodies. Progress and work is looking good

Reckon your in serious need of some bedtime reading material Martin !. Download yourself a copy of this and see if it helps to explain some of your Deck fitting issues- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2135-mower-rotary-42in-rd-1984-05-42mr02-om-810345r1pdf/ As we have no idea what model your Deck is, this will cover many of them about the same age, type etc. Regards

A non pictorial update on the corrective repairs. The Shiny new Piston has been installed. Had to ease the fit of the Gudgeon Pin as it was tight in the new Small End Bearing. I had swapped the new rings that were in the engine over to the new piston. Turned over real smooth by hand and nice compression. Started 2nd pull, a small amount of fine carb adjustment made it run perfectly. Vibration issue sorted. Spent most of this pm installing the back up Cylinder (Reel) and Drive parts. Now back on it's replaced wheels (and rollers). Plenty of clearance now between the Blades, Underside of Deck Panel and B/Blade adjusters. Just the fine adjustment to the cutting/scissor action do, and they already look pretty parallel to each other. On the downside, The paint is lifting around the neck of the Petrol Tank !. Must either be a pinhole in the Soldered joint, or the paint/Fuel proof lacquer did not bond to the brass well enough. Repaint job . Had over yet again!, found that the 0.030" oversized piston came back with Standard size Rings fitted !!. Good job I took them off and checked them in the new re bored Cylinder for the spare engine. Ring gap should only be a few thou, not 0.125" !. You have to be so careful nowadays, sadly, it seems you can't rely on anyone. Now we have had some rain, I'll do a test cut when the grass begins to grow again.

Was hoping to get down on Sunday, but learned again today why I don't commit to long term plans. No reliable transport for a week !!!. New-to-me Car was due to have rear Screen replaced yesterday, found they had the wrong one. Came back today with another, found it too was wrong type !. Unfortunately it was after they cut the old one out. Stuck it back in and made it temporarily watertight/secure while they went for another shot at ordering one. Got a call to say it won't arrive until about next Monday and possible install on Tuesday ...... Enjoy!. Should be good n warm with a hint of dust in the air from Dirt Turning, so pitch your Tent/Van south of the Plough Field if you can. Will be relying on picture please.

No, not cheap Darren. well not if they're the same size as the Coils in my Villiers. There are several sizes and prices vary. I need one as well, but my supplier is out of stock at the mo'.

Nice looking set of Power units you're restoring Gareth. As for B&S parts, I don't hold any, but if you need any help to ID and find a source for the bits you need, I'll be happy to help. Just need the Engine Model/Spec and Serial numbers first if you can post them up.

Hello Alain Hello Alain, I don't see any reason why not, after all, we are only checking the resistance and passing a low voltage from the Meter's battery through it. I would imagine the readings/resistance values may differ though.

Hello Darren, Common problem with old Villiers Coils. Fine copper wire and old shellac varnish to insulate it. Usually the Secondary windings that go, so to test one, it is advisable to disconnect the Coil from the Condenser first. I find it quicker to de-solder and remove the Low Tension wire from the Coil, rather than dismantle the Points box. Set your Meter to Ohms connect red lead point to the HT Lead contact point and the Black (com) lead to the steel central core Rod end (earth/ground). A serviceable Coil will produce a reading of between 3-5k ohms resistance. The primary circuit (Low Tension Coil to Points) is tested with Red lead on Coil wire contact (where is was de-soldered from) and the black lead onto the Core rod for earth/ground. Should have a reading of 0-3 ohms if good. New manufactured ones are better, as they use modern materials internally, but are identical externally. Don't be tempted to buy a New/Unused old one. Regards

Surprised to get a delivery of Goodies so soon today ! Mainly parts for the Spare 1954 engine rebuild and consists mainly of a nicely re-bored cylinder +0.030". Most importantly, the New Alloy Piston for the Mower, including Gudgeon Pin (wrist pin) and Rings!.....bonus. Checked the weight and only 4 grammes difference with the old original. Hoping to get the motor sorted and tested this week and then fit the Cylinder (reel) etc.

Er !, You (and many on here) already have lots of it Nigel and thanks, just look at the things you turn out of your workshop....Landy being the latest !. I can't do biggish projects like many of you Guys, so have to put up with the small finicky ones . Been patiently waiting for Engine bits and the good news is my wait is nearly over, they're now on the way . In the meantime and instead of finishing the Grass Catcher Supports/Cords, I thought as the weather is warm n sunny, I'd start on the construction of an item that will greatly ease the manipulation of this wide, restrictive machine. Starting with an old 1920s Oak Sideboard top I had in store- Measured up, Chopped it up, bolted, glued and screwed some strengthening planks each end, then fitted some cheap 3" Casters (2 fixed and 2 swivel). We now have the makings of a 'Transporter Trolley' that is not quite 18" (45cms) deep and 36" (96cms) wide, so it can access areas through very narrow gaps now - Just finished bonding a layer of thick rubber garage floor covering on it and only need to add a few bits to secure the mower in place while it's on and a drag handle, probably detachable. Getting the mower on is no problem, but may have to bolt a hinged Ramp on one side to get it off easier. Means I can drag it around to the back onto the lawn to finish the work in daylight and then........... test it out !.

Whoa Gents, Thanks , Just got back from the Chinese Restaurant (me driving) and just got my 'Laughing Gear' onto my first Rum and Coke !. Yeah lots of useful pressys, many were 'Minion' themed. Treated myself to a pressy also by buy a new-to-me Car the other day, so ' Ole Fester' is taking a back seat before going to a new home. Wallet is crying and the Moths have headed for the nearest light. Would have also preferred to have received some Villiers Engine parts as well, but we mustn't ask for the impossible eh!. Thanks again for all the B'day wishes.

Thanks Norm, better than I expected, think I got away with it. Hi Ian Ta!, I think they would call 'us Ilk's' that turn our hands to most things as a- J.O.A.T.M.O.N ? . ......................oh!, I can't grind a Cylinder down to the correct size.....then again nor can some professionals.

Finished Stitching up the canvas to frame over the weekend after pinching the base edges (makes a change from me being stitched up!) . The before pics in post 98 near the bottom of page 5. As now- Going to string the next job out (no pun intended). Probably take the support cord from both frame corners of the 'Catcher' to a single point on the Handlebar joint, the cord needs to be adjustable. At the mercy of 'Villiers parts' for a delivery so I can change the Piston over and fit the Cylinder/Reel.

Real glad they fit your pulleys and hope they hold up long time ok. Still can't find any part number or dimension change anywhere. WH Bearing Part number 101480 only quotes the dims I have?. Here are my Pulleys and original Bearings. The pulley 'cast-in' part numbers are 101762/3. Maybe your assumption of Belgium producing/obtaining some pulleys with a different size metric bearing recess is possible .

Ah!, that's not good news. Someone's put the wrong size in at some point. Whatever you do, don't clean the bearing recess back to near metal.I suspect they packed it out with something. 6203-2RS-12 3/4 is the correct spec (2RS= 2 rubber shields. -12= 12mm width) for the Bearings you've ordered. The width is also undersize by 0.7mm, so will also have been packed out. I hope it all goes back together ok.

Done the hardest part of stitching the seams, namely the bottom edges that will be captive under the folded base edge. My spacing and straightness of the seam drastically improved after the first 30cms and past the first crimped corner seam- Thankfully most of this bit is out of sight. It's a bit fiddly with trying to keep the tension on the yarn, but quite satisfying despite the loooong time it takes me. The 1/4" diameter Rod frame was in a mess (bare metal originally) and it had welded to the old canvas with the rust. Had a lot of cleaning and straightening to do, but it now has a coat of Kurust, Oxide Primer and Black Enamel. A trial fit of the Canvas with the Base is looking good- I think I've worked out the finishing sequence. Look's like I'll have to stitch the top edge over the Rod Frame after finally fitting/locking the canvas to the base, which will be interesting. Got to do it nice as this top part will show. That's my weekend booked up.

Ok, I see the spec for 6203-2RS-12 3/4 is undersize compared to the original according to the Spec and Cross reference sheets that I have. Although that range is quoted as 3/4" bore option, the OD is actually measured/quoted as 40mm (1.575"). 0.030" under !. I would want an OD of 1.625", which is why I could not find a correct equivalent in UK. The original bearing number is (General) 22162-88, which compares to (Nice/SKF)1630DC or (Shatz) BR9930A in all dimensions. I imagine a 6203 will just drop in, without the need for pressing?. Will be interested to know how loose the fit is when installed please Norm.

Not seen any pressed tin Pulleys for Mule Drives, only Cast Iron type. Maybe Mun Investments or Toro went cheap on the brand quality on later versions ?. edit- I have Cast Iron versions, one of which is in pieces for a refurb and sell, but low on the list. Could not find bearings with correct Dimensions in UK, nearest was too skinny at 7/16" wide. Actual dims are 1.5/8" (1.6250")OD x 3/4" (0.750") ID x 1/2" (0.5") wide. . Loads available in U.S. but 'Buy n Ship' rates too high commercially and on most Auction Ads. Be interested to know which Bearings your getting and from where though. Edit - Just checked and it was earlier. Look's like the changeover occurred in 75 for 76. The OEM pressed Steel pulleys (2) will set you back about £60 new and complete imported Part numbers are 104974/5.

Just read your description and viewed your pic of the problem again and I believe I now understand where the issue is?, but I can also be mistaken. Suspect you could have a problem with the PTO Bearing shaft. It's the short stubby shaft that carries the Quick Release Pin. On that shaft, there is what you will call a 'Snap Ring' in UK it is also known as a Circlip. That Snap Ring carries All the Pressure that the PTO Control Lever applies to the PTO Clutch and pressure Pad friction material. This is the only example I have on mine that is similar to show the Snap Ring in place (on an older 72 model)- That Snap Ring sits in a shallow groove in the Shaft and wears out the square edges of the groove and so the ring slips out when pressure is applied !. If this is your issue, you will need to replace the Shaft and Snap Ring. I presume your machine is about 1978 which will have a Model number like 81-16KS01?. Either way, the part numbers remained the same for the next several years. Here's a snap shot of Toro's IPL covering the component parts- Parts #33 & #34 are the suspects and the Toro Part nbrs are- 33 = #102872 & 34 = 936125 if you need them. It is a weak spot in the design, but ok as long as spare parts are available , like in the U.S. where you should have no problem obtaining them. To overcome this design issue, I for one have modified it, by producing a shaft with a Shoulder formed where the Snap Ring goes and carries all the pressure- The inside carries a thick washer (not shown) and retained by a Socket Head Bolt to carry the pressure when releasing the PTO away from the Pressure Plate. Edit - also noticed you need to fix the Roll Pin arrowed in this copied image as it is part of your problem-

Afraid there's no Smiley for Birthdays Nigel. Hope your having a great day. Best wishes for loads more

I won't disagree with checking the Deck Drive Belt Tension, but also still check PTO Clutch pressure adjustment. Follow these instructions extracted from the Operator's Manual to adjust it and the Brake Pad pressure- Hope this helps and welcome. Regards

Nothing major as far as progress really, but have continued working on the Grass Catcher for now. Completely dismantled it to it's component parts which are not that substantial in strength. The canvas edges were reinforced with wire and secured under a folded edge around the base panel. The edges carefully prised opened up to free the canvas so I could start to unpick the seams with a 'Stitch Ripper' tool. Canvas has arrived and is a perfect match in weight and colour, and have enough material to make 2 in case I screw up- As was shown in previous pics, the front Rod Tangs on each end were in a bad way, so I searched around for some new rod to replace it. Found some at my local 'Drill-Service' stockist, 2metres of original PS Stubbs 1/4" diameter Silver Steel. Got a discount too, as it had a slight bend. The galvanised base panel had a few dents which I tapped out ok after a good clean with a scourer and came up real good with very little rusting- I've cut the new canvas by using the original as a pattern ready for sewing up, but have now had to order a Sewing Awl to make it easier for my hands/joints. If all goes well, I should have this part finished in just over a week. Hoping the engine parts will be here by then.

If you want help from someone who has done this Mod here in UK, then send kpthorsefan a PM (last on here in April). He used UK sourced Trailer Hubs, not sure if the PCD is the same as on Scooter Rims. His excellent Thread on RS was way back in 2010/11 I believe, but when I last looked, I think the pics links had dropped out. You'd need to fire up the Lathe though Norm!..........Go for it.