Anglo Traction

Welcome Stephan (Like your Username meaning ). Nice Project there, a few parts to obtain I see. I tend to also suspect it is a Techy Engine with an unusual Air Filter?. Carbureter on them can be a challenge to set on some versions, but Engine Manual is available to download and some parts still available. Look forward to seeing it running and working.

It is still in a Field Building down in Sussex. I'm hoping to get it and several other machines out and up to my workshop this Spring when I can find some transport. Land is being sold and has no main access yet. Got to make space first (and some money). The Osprey will probably need a good going over again though.

Nice old 70s example there. It reminded me I have one at the stash in Billingshurst. Paint colour I believe is Fern Green. Next time I'm down there, I'll check it out as the cast alloy base and paint is in excellent nick. As for a Muffler, if it's a 3.5hp with 1/2" NPT thread, then a B&S 'Screw In' one should sort it (if you can get the old lock nut undone and the pipe out). Part number would be Briggs & Stratton 89966 .....type that into a search box for lots of buying options.

Been following your dilemmas with this, and after you've tried multiple setups with various parts, I too am thinking along the lines of iffy condenser/connection and/or an Earthing problem. What is confusing me though is the sporadic run/firing you've had, maybe it is an inconsistent Earth/ground fault which prevents a Spark when the plug is fitted. Maybe a copper wire from the Cylinder Head to a good earth point will rule that out?. Best I can offer, as I know nothing about the Engine/Mag version you have. Really hope you find the 'Gremlin' soon to reward your high level of skills, patience and determination on an excellent project .

Superior workmanship there Alan. I'm usually very cautious about using the word Restoration, even on my own projects, but that look's to be a 'Proper Job'

I managed to find new ones cheap a few years ago. I'm not sure what you will consider as cheap for new ones, but here is a link to a company I use that sells some that may be the right size for you- http://www.malpasonline.co.uk/itm/Reversible-Points-for-Cultivation/Reversible-Point-for-MiniS-Tine-135mm-x-40mm-x-5mm/78348 I've got unused oval head Plough Bolts/nuts here somewhere if you need any?.

When you get around to looking at it again, for Chainsaw parts, I suggest you try Danarm themselves first?. They may still hold spares for it. As for the Carb, Tillotson made them and the HL version is what should be on your machine. The Model number should be stamped on the Body of the Carb. You can order rebuild kits etc from Tillotson via this link- http://www.tillotson.ie/products-parts.php For service and maintaining the Carb, this will be handy if your not familiar- http://www.eccarburetors.com/pdf/HL%20service%20manual.pdf Also, I recall a member here who collects them, Danarmdave is his username I believe?. he may be able to help.

I've also had problems with delayed isolated reactions under Top Coats from Fillers and Hi build Primers. Never found a reason for it, or why it was so inconsistent. Will be interesting if you get an answer.

Not good. Sorry to hear it didn't do better. I've been watching for a while and there is no clear pattern of what they sell for, or even get an offer!. Bit of a worry really, as I'm probably going to part with one of my stock at some point.

No problem. I've used Standard Araldite in the past for mine (plus rivets), but I've read that others have also used Silicone Adhesive or Contact Adhesive. Metal face needs to be super clean and grease free. Air Filter - original part number for K301 spec 47421d was A-235100. Now 235116-S1. Robbed this next info from an Ad ............... Replaces OEM: CASE: C28883 CASE: D66337 CLARK EQUIPMENT: 6518241 Cub Cadet: 385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R2, Cub Cadet: IH-385168-R3 GRAVELY: 010900, GRAVELY: 043954 GRAVELY: 20057700 JOHN DEERE: AM31400 LESCO: 050036 NEW HOLLAND: 251399, NEW HOLLAND: 86546598 TECUMSEH: 32008 TORO: 235116 WISCONSIN: L0194A. ID: 4 5/8 OD: 6 Height: 1 7/8. Armed with all those numbers, a good chance of getting a result local to you. At least you can search online now if no luck. Regards.

As Mark says, plus- There is a compromise with your Tractor. From your pictures, I can tell you that it is mainly a 1972 spec, but with 73> bits fitted (Belgium used up old stock from the U.S. I can only see a single pedal that will operate both the Clutch and the Brake (some serious adjust is required judging by the Peddle angle).....no problem. The main panels are 72, as the gear lever area is open and has the shorter Gear Shift decal plate. From 73> in U.S. They fitted Seat Springs and a slightly longer (1inch) upper Steering Shaft for Knee clearance. Also the PTO Hoop set up you have is '73'>. Dash Panel is difficult to see. A 73 wiring Loom will have a 3 position Ignition Switch, Part number 103990 . A 72 Loom was 4 position and has an Accsr'y position (101917). So best thing to do is pop over to Redsquare via this link, which will take you to the Manuals section and you can download what you need. You need Part/User Manuals for an 1-0311 (72 Raider 12) and Manuals for the 1-0350 (73 12-8psd) - http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/9-1973-1977/ Ignore what is on the riveted plate on your Hood/Bonnet, in fact I would remove it. Only thing to bear in mind is the Manuals/Parts Lists and Specs are all for the U.S. Models/Market. As far as I know, there were never any Manuals produced for Belgium Assembled variants. So you have 2 Forums to play with, if you need any help with it.... and I have both 72 Raider 12 and a 74 12hp.

You're correct with the info . 1-0350 is technically a 12hp 8 speed. Belgium continued sticking surplus Raider Decals on them well into 1973 (the shorter Hood/Bonnet decals were from the late 60's Short frame models). So Decals are iffy for basing an I.D for WH here in Europe. The 8 Speed Transmission in it (if original) is likely to be the 5073 model, which was deemed to have a 10 pinion Limited Slip Diff. from 74 onward, they went to the 8 pinion non LSD. Good choice, User/Parts Manuals for Tractor and Tranny are available.

It's your lucky day. Link below will direct you to both what an old buddy covered in a thread on his restoration of a D-200 Auto (took me a while to find it). He (Andy) refurbished/relined his own. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/32405-d-200-automatic-restoration-project-re-posted/ ................and having obtained my Friction Lining materials from them before, here is a link so you can make your own- http://www.autoandindustrial.co.uk/ Hope this helps. Regards.

Try searching for Band File Sander Alain .

Welcome. These were often used to power things like machinery in Outbuildings and Farms where there wasn't any power supply. The long vertical Exhaust on yours look's like it may have been installed in such a location so as to route the fumes to the outside. What are your plans for it?.

Just read this whole Thread and really impressed with your comprehensive workmanship skills. Your enthusiasm shows through on the care you apply to maintain originality of this machine . Keep the pics coming.

No problem Jonathan, thanks for the reply. Glad to hear you've sorted a Chuck/Backplate. Good history story on the Lathe. Look forward to seeing a pic when you can.

Small amount of progress. More Lathe time recently and still working on the PTO Reduction unit. Finished making the 8 special bolts for the Bearings- Refurbishing of the Big Brass Bearings with new inserts is done and ready to bolt onto the Carrier Plates (working on those)- Checking for imbalance, as it is a heavy piece and I want spot-on. Just the 1/8 BSP Plug to sort and skim the Outer face- Carrier Plates had the first coat of black gloss, but slow to dry and harden. Next job is making/Screw Cutting the 1/2" dia Tie Rod shafts, Spacers and 1/2" BSF Brass Nuts which will hold the engine and PTO in line. I have to draw up the design so I can refer to it for dimensions of parts etc, rather than fabricate and trial fit. More to do on that. Edit on 13th Nov........ Additional Pic during the skimming of the friction face. Very tight fit on the Lathe with only 1/4" travel spare each end -

Awesome Job Nigel . Look's better than new (I imagine). I'm sure Andrew will be real happy with it.

Would that be an Exhaust Pulsing Flame set up Ian?.............. Will be good for killing tall weeds ................... Bit of Overkill just to light up a 'Rolly' Short of iffy circuit or earth/ground connections, the Coils aren't chucking out enough juice?.

The specified Plug for your engine is Champion RH10C or equivalent. Plugs are graded by temperature i.e. Hot, Med or Cold. RH10C is a cold plug which means the Electrode is partially confined in the Threaded plug bore and does not protrude into the Combustion Chamber. A Cold Plug offers a reduction in the risk of Pre Ignition and is suited to non performance engine types. Here's a link to cross reference Plug types and Brands for the equivalents- http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/CHAMP_PN/RH10C Hope this helps. Regards

That's a shame, I'll be down there next week. You'll have the Veteran Cars coming past there around mid morning onwards Chris, enroute to Brighton. 119th anniversary. Will be watching them come past me up here