Jump to content

Anglo Traction

Supporter
  • Content Count

    1,119
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    143
Everything posted by Anglo Traction
 
 
  1. Would be tempting to just watch - ................A friend of mine sent me this. Thought I'd share it, presume it's genuine?.
  2. What Mark says re the Solenoid....junk it and fit a new one. Carb/starting issues also, but depends on the age and engine Model what needs to be checked and sorted. I presume the engine is an 11hp Briggs?. Don't know much about Westwoods, but have been into and around a few Briggs engines. Plenty of experienced people on here to help you through it. Pics are always helpful and well received.
  3. So your starting a 'Crash Test Driver School' as well Ian? . ...Just caught up with this project Nigel. Most impressive. Like the 'Jules Verne' style Dash Fabrication.
  4. Surprised you made such progress yesterday if you had the same amount of rain as was up here !. Will be interesting to see if the ground under the raised floor look's like a Swiss Cheese or not, what with all the Bunny Wabbit activity you've had in the past . Trust you will not be short of fuel for a Guy Fawkes Night Bonfire
  5. Made some progress, but not as far as I would have liked, so here's an update and few pics as well. Just to go back to what the Clutch linkage looked like at the start with the corrosion and the iffy cable routing etc., we had something that looked like this (pics should enlarge if clicked on) - So as seen/mentioned in an earlier update, I was not happy with the corrosion after a clean up, so I reproduced new parts to correct spec and added a few improvements, many parts are now back to an unworn condition, together with the addition of a bronze bushing for the Rod, a stainless Cable Clip made/fitted to the top of the Clutch Fork, keeping it clear of moving parts and now looks like this- The sheared stud/nut on the Clutch lever bracket, which used to look like this and shows the old iffy Throttle Cable routing- All refurbished and repaired, but a re-route of the throttle cable is required and now looks like this- Handlebars etc. finished and assembled, also shows replacement 'Barrel' style Grips. Lowering the Handlebars to the operating angle will give me the length and best route for the Cable- I'll probably have to dismantle,then remove the Cylinder because it appears the blades will fowl the Bottom Blade adjusters . It could be that the finished Cylinder diameter is greater than the 6. 1/8" diameter I specified, and so will not allow the adjuster plates to move far enough back away from the knives- Add this problem to some Auction site purchase(s) received this week not being 'as described' , my progress is to be desired. Never mind, it will take as long as it takes. Hopefully another update next week.
  6. Very nice looking Next Generation 'Shack Pad' there Ian. I take it it's provided courtesy of Nigel?, if so , your a lucky Lad having a new kindly neighbour of that calibre . Look's like it's big enough to rattle around it like a 'Pea in a Drum'.
  7. Hi Gareth, yes. 2 choices ( or more) for you. top of the page (7) in this link gives you the choice of a high res copy of the full service Manual, or low res. You'll need section IV of it for your transmission- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/23-manual/?sort_order=ASC&sort_key=file_name&num=10&filter_key=all&st=60 Just post the Tractor Model Nbr (and serial nbr) if you have them for a poss build date.......addendum to my previous- If your tractor is a 1974 model, then you may have a 5080, or 5084 Tranny version. Only difference I believe is the differential types, being either 4 pinions on shafts or 4 solid one piece pinions. Regards
  8. Good news Ian, a load off your mind then!...... No doubt He will have to add a few feet onto the Headroom of the ceiling to get one of those in it
  9. Look forward to seeing what you make of this derelict (look's about the same condition as my C-120 when I got it) . If you need a Service Manual for your 'Uni Drive' Transmission, there is one available. As said, your Tranny should be the 3fwd, 1 rev (4spd) - 5084 version that was last used on/fitted to the 74/75 B80 series in the US. Raider 10s were normally 8 speed Trannys (6 fwd, 2 rev incl Hi/Lo) from 1974 on. Belgium Built units used up the old surplus 4 spd Trannys in mid 70s.
  10. Look's capable of doing some serious work, nice machine
  11. Thanks Ray, and I'll check out what's local when I get around to sorting the Treads, just in case my plans and application fails . Bit slow with just a brief update so far, mainly due to a few assembly problems I found. Main one being the L/H Threaded Freewheel/drive Pinion retaining screw (red arrowed in first pic) will no longer fully screw in comfortably. Suspected the internal thread was damaged when the Cylinder/Blades were held 'Between Centres' on various machines when rebuilt, so I have had to obtain a 1/4" L/H BSF Tap to recut the threads (in the post). The right hand side, I was able to deal with as it is standard R/H Thread and I had a Tap for that. The main Drive Chain (yellow arrow) needs replacing really, as it is slightly stretched and won't allow proper tension adjustment, having probs locating the exact spec chain (type 415 med duty). It is what is holding up the whole L/H Wheel assembly One of the mods I had to make was the addition of a Bronze Bushing (blue arrow) to carry the newly made Clutch Guide Rod, as the hole was 'Egged Out' (more on this in next update) - Another observation I had made was when I fitted the Cylinder, there was a noticeable lack of clearance between the end of some of the Blades and the 1/2" Whitworth Stub Axle retaining nuts, too close for my liking, so I machined off the surplus ends of the nuts that did not engage with any thread to increase the clearance- I've managed to finish most of the prep and painting of the remaining parts and are currently 'hardening up' at the moment (upper Handlebars had a lot of prep work due pitting). Several other bits awaiting delivery, had a job finding suitable Bar Grips, but the ones I eventually found will look ok and hopefully will start to look more complete by the end of the coming week and will post more pics then.
  12. Congrats on a truly impressive collection of British made Chainsaws etc. and welcome. I confess I did not know of the make, but just checked out the Company history and now aware. Well done and thanks for sharing
  13. Sorry for the delay in reply, been making some obsolete bits that were worn or iffy. Yeah, will be good to see it finished, but half the enjoyment for me is actually doing the work. Just picked up the remaining parts from the Media Blasters clean and primed.......need some good painting weather now. As for the Tread pattern, in short, I'll be using the Vertical Mill and either the Rotary Table to index the cuts or the 'Cast In' gear teeth. That's where the Devil hides James......in the detail!. So I figure if I take care of those bits, she'll run good and strong long time
  14. No problem Mark, I'm on it, just looked it up. Unique Deck to Rangers of that style. Model numbers 5-0200 or 5-0201. 32 inch side discharge . Charlie......Put the number(s) in the Toro search box link I gave you in your other post (in Ride Ons ).
  15. Thanks Gents and for looking in on this thread. Yeah!, bit of a jigsaw Ian . Started the partial reassembly and then decided that several bits of the Clutch Linkage are too sloppy, worn and pitted. Don't want to 'Spoil the Ship for a Ha'p'orth of Tar', so I'll make new bits during the forecast rainy days ahead - Hit the Wheels the other day, full of the usual dirt n detritus mixed with Grease n Oil- Slow job cleaning out all the 'Cast In' gear teeth while trying to avoid getting any solvent in the gap between tyre and rim. Bushings showed a bit of wear, Stub axles are good, so extracted them and ordered replacements the other day. Gave the wheels a few coats of paint and left them to dry. Bushings arrived today so fitted those and now feels a smooth 'running fit' - Gave the tyre walls a clean and a coat of Holts Tyre Wall Black (old stock of some 40yrs) to seal the surfaces. I'm leaving the 'Tread' pattern and the Hub Cover issues until it is up and running. Next is more Blasting, Etch Priming and 'E' Bucketing parts before painting and assembly. Would be nice to get a Test Cut in before the winter if I can.
  16. Thanks for the pics Chris, I was hoping to get there one of the days, but failed miserably .
  17. Look's like you did well with the price Charlie. The Engine is original. It's a V80 150018 (number is under the silver paint below the label in your pic). Tractor is a 1973 model and there is no panel missing as the gear lever is a Wand type and the Fwd/Rev Speed numbers are around the edge of the aperture. Illustrated Parts List is available, just type your model number into the search box in this link- https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro〈=us_en So that's your winter fully booked for refurbishment work
  18. It's a MK1 Capstan Nigel. There is a wealth of info for you in this link- http://www.lathes.co.uk/raglan/page4.html . Very versatile machine .
  19. Nice strong 'Harrison' James...... Is it an L5 or an L5A?...can't quite make out what the Swing size is from the pics
  20. Yeah Hppy Brthd'y Norm. Sorry about the lack of Birthday Smileys. Enjoy your day.
  21. Don't worry Ian, it's only the Camera Flash that tends to make it look all shiny. No secrets, just take a bit of time cleaning before working with progressively finer grades of 'Wet Or Dry' and some 'T' Cut (old original type) to finish. It's nowhere near as shiny as the Genset Engine though!. Well that month shot by (Sept). Made the most of the dry weather to prep n paint after seeing what I have to replace. The Spacer Tubes were an issue, the front ones were ok, but I was not happy with the corrosion level on the ones from the rear of the Mower (2nd row from top in the pic). As I had a 1954 20inch Donor Atco Mower, I made up 2 new Spacer Tubes seen 3rd from top in Pic ready cut and prepped for welding together. I have to scrap the rear 5/8" diameter Roller Bar as you can see in the pic (4th from top), it's too far gone. So my dilemma of replacing it was solved by having to use the Donor Mower's (20inch) 5/8" diameter Bar (2nd up from bottom in pic) and making an extension for it to screw on and weld it up. Reason is 5/8" (15.9mm) won't pass through my Lathe Headstock Spindle (19/32" or 15mm limit), so I can't make a new one. I'll also use the Donor Mower Rollers for the time being as they are exactly the right size. Top Panel, Side Plates and Blade Carrier were Sandblasted and Etch Primer baked on. Rest of the parts were left to simmer in the E-Bucket before prepping and painting. I went with Old JCB Yellow in the end, which may be a tad darker, but happy with the Paint quality. Several sizes of BSF Nuts n Bolts also needed replacing-. About halfway through this now, so the end is in sight and over the worst of the expensive bits.
  22. Yep! Castrol EXP 80-90 API Spec GL-5 for mine.
  23. Nice job Norm, and I spotted the juxtaposed numbers
  24. Despite being only 9 miles from Brighton when I was growing up, there was no local distinction (us n them) between Mods n Rockers.. maybe I confused people because over a few years I had a 1965 Vespa SS180, 1958 Lambretta LDA150 Shaft Driven, 1960 Royal Enfield 350, 1966 Lambretta SX200 bored to 225 and a '65' 250 Greaves Challenger. The latter was consigned to 'Offroad Trials' after I got my first Car/Van .......maybe I had an identity crisis back then
  25. That's a Good'un Norm, nice find. No stopping you now. Very nice gear there Iain .Craned in over the roof eh!......not planning on moving anytime soon then? .
 
×
×
  • Create New...