Anglo Traction

Been a while since I last saw your progress Norm. Good to see you've fixed the Tranny and had the opportunity to Primer . That Hoodstand looked very sound with no pitting or rot...... they are often well perforated!

Long time since I visited the forum (last year!!). Hope all are ok etc. I'm adapting to a few shortfalls in physical health (thanks Ian/Norm for your concern). Still looking forward to the chance of spending time down in the Workshop when weather warms up. Have been able to do a few little fiddly bits recently though. Back in Post number #34 on page 2 of this 'Topic', I had a few jobs to finish on the Carb. A new Strangler (choke) Rod has been made up from 1/8" stainless steel and a 'Lift Knob' formed on the top. I also added a fibre washer and spring to prevent vibration wear and seal from dirt etc The 2 Filter Body retaining screws also made.- Made up a new Throttle Cable, turning up some new nipples now that I've fixed the required length and route, the Villiers Throttle Lever also fully refurbed, but had to replace the Chromed Top Screw. Original Cable Ties (2) shown just in top left of next pic will be re used-. Other little tinkering bits I'm managing to do are Fuel Tap(s). The Fuel Tap on this mower is the Lever turn type (bottom in next pic). I thought I'd add a bronze Mesh screen filter (149 microns) like the one I made and fitted to the (1954) Ewarts Tap (right in pic) I'm refurbishing , but may make a 'Drop In' one that sits inside the Tank Filler neck. The other (1964 chrome) Ewarts Tap on the left of pic is finished and from the Seagull Outboard and needed a new Brass Plunger made before fitting a new Cork on it-. Here's hoping we have a good Spring 'n' Summer . Lots to do, Places to go, People to see.

Hi Ian, hope the move went ok. Sorry for no updates, health issues getting in the way. probably won't get back to working on it this year. Also going to have to start having a clear out etc. I'll awake this thread when I get back to it. Regards.

Hi Dave, I see your Down under, so welcome !. Afraid I know little about these, but to try and help, here's a few links that may assist in sorting it and locating any parts you may need - http://www.oldcroak.com/fw-series-flywheel-magneto-rx/ http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/wicomagneto/Petrolmag.htm http://www.magnetoparts.com/wico_fw.htm Not sure if the weak Magnets will be an issue for you, but would be good to know how you get on. Regards

Very good work . look's like the frame is adapted from an old Huffy Bike?.

Not a common Stationary Engine you have there, made from 1962, 120cc 3.2hp Petrol/Paraffin ohv. I can't help with parts or info, but may have some luck if you also check out /search for the 420 version. Being an industrial type and a different design to motorbike engines, it may also still be worth checking out a 'Classic Bike' company. Would be good to know how you get on with it.

Great little Chainsaw John . Like the manual Chain Lube. Chain look's like 1/4" pitch?. It's got the 'Wallfish Quality Refurb' look about it !.

As the books can be considered educational, here are the 4 that I use and value. These are still available and can be searched by title. 2 are specific to Make of machine, but principles are universal- Other 2 are my 'go to' references and cover all forms of Metalwork and processes etc. I'm sure others have recommendations as well.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Doug, same vintage as me. Enjoy a few Jars of your favourite tipple and have a great day

Take your time deciding Tom, It depends on what the largest thing you'll likely want to put on it to machine?. Myfords are great for light - medium work. Been a favourite for Model Engineers for many years, parts are plentiful in comparison. Old ones are Imperial measurement / later ones Metric, so depends on your primary preference, but you should be able to obtain change wheels to produce work on both in either unit of measurement. So if, as you say, your plan is to find one to start on , then upgrade, you'll not go wrong with a common Myford I went through the learning process as you will have to, but I had to overhaul mine first. I found great advice and learning references by obtaining a few books.......Happy to PM you a few titles if you wish.

Nice. Glad someone gets to own machines that only need an 'Oily Rag Wipe Over' to be able to run it and use !.

Hi and welcome. I also suggest you rule out the easy checks first. You say Woodruffs are ok, which ones have you checked?. You only need one of the Keys sheared on the Axles/Hubs to prevent motion. Check to see if the Brake Drum is rotating when running to rule out a few more Keys in the Tranny?. Are you getting a positive action on the Gear Lever when you select 1st- 3rd, or reverse?. Not sure if your familiar with these, but undo the Locknut and the Dog Screw (when in Neutral) that retains the Gear Lever (see pic), remove the lever to check it is ok and engages with the selector forks inside. If all these are ok, the issue is more likely to be internal.

Feasible. Is that One shot grease similar to the type used in CV Joints?. Only problem I see after fitting a grease nipple 'Inboard' into the D/S tube is a need for a 'One Way' relief valve for the greasing procedure and would be best sited between the outer Needle Bearing(s) and the Shaft Seal(s), otherwise it would blow the seal(s). Nipples would also need to be in a position that would not interfere with any form of Rear Hitch Unit, say for a Snow Plough etc.

Great looking machine that 62 Bolens Iain, nice find . Good that you got the original Kohler as well. K161 I believe. would be good to see it back and running in the Tractor if you ever get the chance.

Good fix Norm ...... I trust you have noted on your reassembly list to remove the rubber seals from those bearings before closing up the Tranny case?.......Or are you doing a 'Greased for Life' job on the outer Needle Bearings?.

Would be tempting to just watch - ................A friend of mine sent me this. Thought I'd share it, presume it's genuine?.

What Mark says re the Solenoid....junk it and fit a new one. Carb/starting issues also, but depends on the age and engine Model what needs to be checked and sorted. I presume the engine is an 11hp Briggs?. Don't know much about Westwoods, but have been into and around a few Briggs engines. Plenty of experienced people on here to help you through it. Pics are always helpful and well received.

So your starting a 'Crash Test Driver School' as well Ian? . ...Just caught up with this project Nigel. Most impressive. Like the 'Jules Verne' style Dash Fabrication.

Surprised you made such progress yesterday if you had the same amount of rain as was up here !. Will be interesting to see if the ground under the raised floor look's like a Swiss Cheese or not, what with all the Bunny Wabbit activity you've had in the past . Trust you will not be short of fuel for a Guy Fawkes Night Bonfire

Made some progress, but not as far as I would have liked, so here's an update and few pics as well. Just to go back to what the Clutch linkage looked like at the start with the corrosion and the iffy cable routing etc., we had something that looked like this (pics should enlarge if clicked on) - So as seen/mentioned in an earlier update, I was not happy with the corrosion after a clean up, so I reproduced new parts to correct spec and added a few improvements, many parts are now back to an unworn condition, together with the addition of a bronze bushing for the Rod, a stainless Cable Clip made/fitted to the top of the Clutch Fork, keeping it clear of moving parts and now looks like this- The sheared stud/nut on the Clutch lever bracket, which used to look like this and shows the old iffy Throttle Cable routing- All refurbished and repaired, but a re-route of the throttle cable is required and now looks like this- Handlebars etc. finished and assembled, also shows replacement 'Barrel' style Grips. Lowering the Handlebars to the operating angle will give me the length and best route for the Cable- I'll probably have to dismantle,then remove the Cylinder because it appears the blades will fowl the Bottom Blade adjusters . It could be that the finished Cylinder diameter is greater than the 6. 1/8" diameter I specified, and so will not allow the adjuster plates to move far enough back away from the knives- Add this problem to some Auction site purchase(s) received this week not being 'as described' , my progress is to be desired. Never mind, it will take as long as it takes. Hopefully another update next week.

Very nice looking Next Generation 'Shack Pad' there Ian. I take it it's provided courtesy of Nigel?, if so , your a lucky Lad having a new kindly neighbour of that calibre . Look's like it's big enough to rattle around it like a 'Pea in a Drum'.

Hi Gareth, yes. 2 choices ( or more) for you. top of the page (7) in this link gives you the choice of a high res copy of the full service Manual, or low res. You'll need section IV of it for your transmission- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/category/23-manual/?sort_order=ASC&sort_key=file_name&num=10&filter_key=all&st=60 Just post the Tractor Model Nbr (and serial nbr) if you have them for a poss build date.......addendum to my previous- If your tractor is a 1974 model, then you may have a 5080, or 5084 Tranny version. Only difference I believe is the differential types, being either 4 pinions on shafts or 4 solid one piece pinions. Regards

Good news Ian, a load off your mind then!...... No doubt He will have to add a few feet onto the Headroom of the ceiling to get one of those in it

Look forward to seeing what you make of this derelict (look's about the same condition as my C-120 when I got it) . If you need a Service Manual for your 'Uni Drive' Transmission, there is one available. As said, your Tranny should be the 3fwd, 1 rev (4spd) - 5084 version that was last used on/fitted to the 74/75 B80 series in the US. Raider 10s were normally 8 speed Trannys (6 fwd, 2 rev incl Hi/Lo) from 1974 on. Belgium Built units used up the old surplus 4 spd Trannys in mid 70s.

Look's capable of doing some serious work, nice machine