Anglo Traction

Looking God still Norm....Black n a bit of Silver was the way to go If it helps you, here's a few. As Mark says, it passes under the Exhaust Nipple and bends around and down- Then the Outer Cable is clamped at this point- Inner Cable end is fastened to the bottom of the Pivot Arm that is bolted to the Blower Shroud (pic if you need it).

Thanks for the pics, All very good. The inverted Hoods on the Homelites do not look at all out of place and a wise economic manufacturing decision. Yes, they certainly made it over here to UK, as I picked up a Steering wheel several years ago from Auction Site , probably came off a scrapped T8 Model........ ended up on one of my Wheel Horses-

Excellent variety and examples in your collection, would like to see pics of some of your others too. Homelite T16H I believe has a good style and colour scheme if I recall correctly.

My concern also. Using steel would require a greater interference fit, as the coefficients would mean Ali expands with heat at a greater rate and therefore would loosen the sleeve. Have you considered machining the Sleeve and Flange complete from Billet Aluminium and set the sleeve diameter to just break into the threaded Stud holes?. You can then insert the Sleeve and recut the Stud hole threads so they cut into the sleeve wall for greater strength when bolted. If then, the sleeve loosens in the future, you only have to make another Sleeve insert.....just a thought

Far from being any form of an experienced Machinist, I agree your direction to fix this problem is the best option, especially the use of the Flange Bolt holes for the Sleeve retention. Just curious what material your planning to use for the Flanged Sleeve insert?. What ever you use, perhaps there is another local engine point you could add to support the Exhaust and take the weight off the new joint your making . Sorry to hear about your roof tiles, last one I had to repair was 1993 .

Superb job. The cart look's the part and I like the square headed bolts and nuts .

Nice attachment to have if you can sort the missing parts. Can't be sure but I think WH Sickles and other machines were made by HABAN?. If you want to see an image of what may be missing, use this link to view one in the Redsquare Gallery- http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/981-sms-425-42-sickle-bar-mower/

Probably just as well you crammed it all in today Norm. I see your in for a 'wet n windy' weekend, so you can heal your aches !.

Looking good Norm. Your not hanging about now are you!. Unlike your engine was..... off your adjustable height workbench

Good sized bit of garage space and well equipped. Eventually worked out from the pics that it is 'L' shaped and on 2 levels !.

Wrispin is correct. Clean the area highlighted in your copied image below back to metal or at least until you can clearly read all the numbers and tell us what they are- The dark red paint is not original. The remnants of the Decal next to that area should look like this example- Provisionally, The Briggs Diamond shaped decal on the Shroud is a design used between 1946 and 1959. The pressing detail in the Cowling (shroud) consisting of lines and the 'B' over an 'S' separated by a diamond with line, also indicates that era. My estimate is a late 50's or very early 60s (possible import lag with the styles). As for engine type/size...... no idea without the numbers. Also depends if it's Cast Iron Crankcase or Aluminium. Your engine look's like it has the 'Air Vane' Governor System. Adjustable by Spring tension. The Vane needs to be clean and free to move, so best to pull the Shroud and clean it out. Lots of different Carbs fitted. Ignition system varies, internal or exterior Breaker system........could be 'Magna- Matic'. .........Apart from that I know nothing about it !. Your resident expert will be Matt (Bowtiebutler956) on here. I do have a full Service Manual covering early Briggs, probably along with several others on here who know these engines. And everything you ever need to know about these engines can be found online. If you need any more help, just ask.

I'll certainly make every effort to get kitted out this year and bring something along as it may be in a good cause. Does the Children's Village benefit from this at all Chris?.

Nice machine Charlie, is it a 60's model?. Can't quite make out the Briggs Engine Decal style to get a date period. For some reason, my eyes are drawn to the solid tyres .......and think of my Mower

You shouldn't feel that way, most of us learn about what we're restoring as we go along. The good thing is that much of the old/vintage or classic American made machinery has loads of databases, parts lists and manuals still available to learn from. That's why I like them. Sadly there isn't so much of that now, or it's hard to track down in the UK. The Decals really finish it off and do the Engine justice. Also like the woven sheathing on the HT Lead.

Lovely shine on that Matt (no contradiction intended ). And I spot an unpainted screwdriver on the bench . I'll probably be up all night again Matt....trying to work out what insomnia means?.....Question time again... Is this a Gasoline/Kerosene model?. What is the Tank made from i.e. Brass or Steel.

That's right Norm, C-120, C-121, C-125s were all 12hp. The Engine Spec numbers changed. 77 C-120s had a k301s (47421) with a Flat Oil Pan. 78 C-121s went over to the K301AS Cradle (47648) and 80-82 C-125s K301AS (47723- 47742). Never easy dating Tractors/Engines when they've been molested. Especially when they replace the Tins (Shroud) on an original Engine and not transfer the old numbers.

'80' C-120 !!!. That would have been unique, even for the Belgian factory. The C-120 Decals on yours (if original) were last (should have been)used on '77' models. So I can understand them (Belgium) putting surplus stock decals onto the '78' Models, but not '80'. They were C-125s (12hp) in 80. Never mind, glad you sorted it in time. ..............A rose by any other name will look as sweet !.

Just looking at your picture again, Were you draining it from the Fill level on the side of the Tranny?. Did you also remove the Hex Plug on the bottom as well (if fitted?. that's where all the sludgy stuff would lay.

The 2 main causes of milky Transmission Oil are- Keeping the Tractor outside uncovered and the rubber Gearshift Boot perished. Rain water runs down the gearshift lever and into the tranny. If the Tranny is 6 or 8 speed model, the Hi Lo Lever entry point is also susceptible to water ingress (good amount of grease around the base will stop that). Did you jack up the front of the Tractor before draining it Charlie?. Reason is that the water settles to the bottom and will be trapped in between the internal recesses. It's best to give it a flush with a bit of Diesel or Kerosene if the Oil is milky, but I suspect you've added the new Oil anyway. As for the Whining Gear, I would not worry too much. It is probably down to having spent most of it's previous owned life mowing grass in 2nd Gear and is more worn than the others. Add this to using a modern 90 wt Oil as opposed to the old recommended 140 wt and the Straight Cut gears will tend to make a bit more noise.

Good work on the Valve Cover Matt. great finish....... obviously you have a surfeit of old screwdrivers for using as spacers/standoffs . Had a read of the Manual for that (LB) engine from the oldengine forum. Very interesting that there is a specific Piston for use in engines located 8000ft above sea level !!!!.....must have a compression ratio difference . Also see there is a complete Cylinder head/valves for sale (in Canada), so surprisingly, there are bits still out there for them. Hope you finish this Thread up with a short Vid of it running.

Had money on you keeping it black Norm. Missed the decal situ, I've got spare black and chrome (custom) starter decals and black and silver Air filter, starter & 15 amp Alternator decals I would part with.I admire your restraint and not pull the head to check it out. I have to do them irrspectively. Like you,I need some warm weather. Keep up the good work on the Black 'orse.

Nice find, I remember the celebration year where most of the US Airline Carriers that flew into London Gatwick Airport had restyled their Aircraft Logo graphics to commemorate the bicentenery. Are you planning to keep the decals as they are (unused) as a collector item?.

Yeah, would look cool fitted in a tractor with that blue paint cleaned off the Crankcase and polish it up shiny

Yeah, What Matt says. Good project machine there Koen. Like the Engine Drawings/Prints. I'll be watching your progress assuming you plan to get it back to A1 'Juice Generating' condition .

I can't predict any balance/vibration issues on your engine size, but my fully rebuilt K301 with the b/gears out, has only a brief, minimal vibration period at 1900 rpm and disappears at 2100. I presume you obtained the rebuild kit from the same guy in US (Kevin, bat4kids). Good service and endorsed by many in US. My reasons for leaving them out we're based on the considerable US opinion and experience with these engines over many years of this practice. Other than to mention that several lower hp size engines did not have them installed. Yes, cost to reinstall the gears is also a consideration, especially if you do it properly and/or have to replace the gear shafts as well as bearings etc. If it makes you feel any better Mark, I put 350 quid into my engine!. So far it is still singing like a brand new engine, but after only a few hours running. I'm sure you'll be happy with it when it fires up.