Anglo Traction

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia-
 

 
Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing.
Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first-
 

 
I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table.
As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions-

 
I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate-
 

 
Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled.
Regards
 
 
 
 

Bit of progress on making parts, turned up a few bronze pieces for a change, starting with a pair of captive chassis axle to wheel thrust bearings. Shaft size is 9/16" (>13mm) dia-
 

 
Then drew up the front Caster wheel design, sourced some rectangular thick box section steel and started on the axial bearing.
Took a slice of bronze off the 2" dia hollow bar after boring out to exactly 1" (25.4mm) first-
 

 
I planned to use 5/32" bearing balls from old bearing stock like I did with the Drill Project a few years back. Calculated the number required (18) and set up for machining on the rotary table.
As I was slot drilling through the cage plate, i had to use thin birch ply under it. Using a 'Ball Nosed Slot Drill' of the same diameter as the balls, they sit very comfortably in the respective positions-

 
I then machined a shallow 'race' in the 2 mating bearing plates using the same table settings, leaving running clearance on each side of the cage plate-
 

 
Very pleased with the way this bit went, being my first attempt at an Axial Bearing and it all runs very smoothly (without grease) when assembled.
Regards
 
 
 
 

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.
Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.
After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -
 
 
 
Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.
I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -
 

 
Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 
 

 
Regards
   

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.
Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.
After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -
 
 
 
Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.
I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -
 

 
Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 
 

 
Regards
   

Been a while since the last post and have been occupied daily with this. Commenced work on the chassis after drawing it up, deciding on material sizes, ordering it etc etc and finally starting the cutting.
Settled for 50 x 50 x 3mm angle and drew the design up full size on a nice flat piece of thick birch ply. Chassis size is 360mm x 620mm.
After lots of sawing, filing and bending, I have reached this point -
 
 
 
Havng decided on three wheels, it took me a little longer to come up with the layout. The front wheel will be  a 'Caster' type and it looks like I'll have to make it.
I've made a mounting plate 5mm thick to strengthen the area, plus a towing eye. I will tack weld all the joints and then decide whether I continue welding it all up myself, or get it done properly ! -
 

 
Back to engine and reduction gear mounts which need to be trimmed to final height before welding to the base plate etc - 
 

 
Regards
   

Can't give you the belt size, but the part number from the manual is 2348. An online search for hayter 21 part number 2348 throws up several outlets to obtain one. Here's an example-
HAYTER 21 2348

Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, it goes well with the polished brass parts-

 

 
Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design.
Regards
 

Reduction gear clutch parts finished now and all fit nicely in the finished bearing plates. Painted a nice shiney black enamel, it goes well with the polished brass parts-

 

 
Couple of jobs to do before I fit the innards to the Reduction unit, but able to move on to couplings and chassis design.
Regards
 

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip.
 
The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation-
 

 
Regards
 

HI Ray hope all's well, I don't know how I missed this topic of yours . Good job there with the panelwork. I expect it will work as good as it looks 

I decided to tidy-up my Hayter 21 and am attaching a few photos of the exercise. I decided to use the Handle from an Osprey as I had this to hand and it appears more robust than the 21 handle.

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip.
 
The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation-
 

 
Regards
 

This part is very nearly ready for welding up and riveting now I've finished making the copper rivets and shaping the friction linings. Gives me 19.5 sq ins(126sq cms) of contact, so plenty of grip.
 
The bar with the springs will serve to keep the "Shoes' open and apply equal pressure when shoes are closed onto the PTO by 'over centre' lever lock and cable operation-
 

 
Regards
 

Hi Lauren, That is the 5min version. The deception is that they use the word original.
The one you want is the 'Standard' version. Gives you 80mins+ working time, but requires longer curing time setting-

 

 
I've used this brand for over 50 years and in hostile environments in excess temps of 65c and has held fast. There are other brands out there, but have never had a need to try them.
Providing the parts are meticulously clean, dry, sound and abraded for good keyed surfaces, it will do the job.
Regards

Well saved there!. Glad to see ths Topic is still useful.

Looking good as always Richard.  

Old Thread But Highly Relevent. !!! Just acquired a Hayter 21 Serial 016
5 Hp Briggs 132922 1989 engine
needed a new clutch (reason it was dumped in the hedge)
 
It runs great
 
Lauren

HI Ewan,
               I've just used up the last piece of lining on my Stationary project. I still have this brake unit in my stock though!.
If you PM me your WH project Model nbr and what you're in need of, I'll check to see what I have.
I'm starting to have a sort out of WH parts I no longer require.
 
Regards.

Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings.
I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference -  A&IFS Itd 
I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!.
The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.-
 
  
 

 
Regards.
Richard
 

Loctite do a useful two part adhesive called Multibond. Quick curing. I’ve used it successfully to re- attache Hayer Osprey and 21 clutch linings and other similar jobs.

Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design.
Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. -
 

 
The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining.
The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts-
 

 
The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer.
 
Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project.
A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up-
 

 
These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side.
I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' -
 

 
The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and save me a lot of work.
May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?.
Regards.
 
 
 
 

Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings.
I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference -  A&IFS Itd 
I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!.
The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.-
 
  
 

 
Regards.
Richard
 

Always good to have an alternative source for friction linings.
I've used Auto & Industrial ltd for my requirements in the past. A link for reference -  A&IFS Itd 
I foolishly 'paid through the nose' for a TORO/Wheel Horse PTO plate (rivet on) many years ago....still in my stock!.
The 5min Araldite version is rubbish in my opinion. I always use the Original Araldite and has bonded my WH brake linings to spring steel with no issues. Just needs a longer curing time.-
 
  
 

 
Regards.
Richard
 

Thanks Mark, Hope all's well with you and family. Chassis plans are ongoing, yet to decide which species of wood to select....... meanwhile, I've been working on the 'clamshell style' clutch system design.
Details were mentioned in post nbr#10 on page 1. -
 

 
The steel ring is retained in the whole while I make and attach the various parts, then will cut it up when ready to close the 5/32" dia (4mm) rivets. Also then attach (copper rivets) the friction lining.
The 2 halves pivot on 1/2"dia (12.7mm) rod. the hinges are machined from solid and initially screwed together. Also welding them later before shaping. Quite pleased with the fit and no play in the hinge parts-
 

 
The bits of Angle plate were cold forged to shape with a hammer.
 
Another essential time saving part dropped into the stock for this project and although slightly large, they will suit the style of this project.
A pair of cast iron wheels were obtained, rust welded to an axle. Took a while to separate them and clean up-
 

 
These are just under 10 inches in dia (250mm approx) and are not 'handed', so the curved spokes will be opposite on each side.
I found oil holes under the dirt and rust, so I've tapped them out to fit brass 'Oilers' -
 

 
The paint is the only colour I have in proper enamel, so not yet decidied the final colour. So a good price of a 'tenner' (UKL£10.00) secured these and save me a lot of work.
May even go for a 3 wheeler chassis?.
Regards.