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Chris

Whats the best way to clean a fuel tank??

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Right,

 

Started pulling my Bolens 1886 apart today for get it going restoration

 

One of the problems is rust & dirt in the large fuel tank

 

Also some 30 year old petrol :o

 

Whats the best way to clean it out apart from filling it with stones & parrafin & strap it to a cement mixer for a day :D

 

Is there some kind of eco cemical I can fill it with which will eat the rust???

 

Thanks all

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How do I go about setting up an E tank??

 

I have heard about them but never looked into it more

 

Its quite a large tank for the tractor so whats my best set up to clean it out??

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If the rust isn't too bad, try filling with Apple Cider Vinegar.  It's cheap and eco friendly.(Regular vinegar works but it's slower). I also shake some sharp screws in them to loosen the big stuff. After soaking for 2 days, check it, if it needs more just reuse the vinegar again. After it's clean, rinse with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid and blow it dry with a compressor.

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Thanks for the info.

 

I took the tank to work today & steamed out the inside using the high powered jet washer we have. B)

 

I got it so hot you could have fried an egg on it

 

I did this several times & washed it out with cold water & it does not look to bad now :)

 

I have ordered some Frosts tank clean to give it a extra soak so we will see how that performs

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If the rust isn't too bad, try filling with Apple Cider Vinegar.  It's cheap and eco friendly.(Regular vinegar works but it's slower). I also shake some sharp screws in them to loosen the big stuff. After soaking for 2 days, check it, if it needs more just reuse the vinegar again. After it's clean, rinse with baking soda and water to neutralize the acid and blow it dry with a compressor.

It look like a good green alternative and cost effective too.

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If the e tank works on line of sight I would imagine that just dunking the rusty fuel tank would only clean the outside. So is it necessary to turn the fuel tank itself into an e tank with the shell being the negative cathode and the positive anode being inserted through the filler but insulated from the tank so that the rust is attracted away from the tank walls to it?

Edited by Wristpin

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If the e tank works on line of sight I would imagine that just dunking the rusty fuel tank would only clean the outside. So is it necessary to turn the fuel tank itself into an e tank with the shell being the negative cathode and the positive anode being inserted through the filler but insulated from the tank so that the rust is attracted away from the tank walls to it?

:thumbs: Yep! , spot on with your assumption Wristpin. had to do this 3 times to get the worst out. Here's a link to a pictorial example of my set up/effort-

http://myoldmachine.com/topic/536-1972-genset/    

You have to clean the Anodes regularly and ensure the by-products are able to float to the surface around the insulation on the Anodes.

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Decided to give it a go . As you say, the in tank electrode gathers crud at an alarming rate and the current flow drops proportionally.

Mk1 was a six inch nail and the Mk2 for more exposure a bit of steel tube. Mk3 which is brewing at present is L shaped for 3d exposure!

The electrode erosion was only a couple of hours for the nail and overnight for the tube.

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post-236-0-67136600-1407675053_thumb.jpg

post-236-0-53537700-1407675109_thumb.jpg

Edited by Wristpin

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:thumbs: Look's like it is doing the job ok. What initial amperage are you using?.
I found that doing a good shake up with a handful of Pea Shingle in between the treatment, helped to clean off a lot of the areas inside and allowed the electrolysis process to concentrate on the inaccessible areas like narrow joints.

.......................................Just put the Maverick's 'Dance the night away' CD on and pretend your playing the Maracas along to it !  :yankchain: ...I did.   

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I use a handful of nuts and self tappers. Really evil back crud came out this morning!

If the ammeter is to be believed it pulls about 5 amps with a squeaky clean electrode but soon drops back to 2 and stays there.

Been discussing the method with another forum member and wondering whether a spherical end to the electrode would make it multi-directional ?!!!!

Times like this makes me wish that I'd paid more attention to physics and chemistry at school!

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The Sloper tank has been brewing for nearly a week now and is still giving up a fair amount of crud. A look inside with a torch and mirror shows a lot of clean metal with some areas that are still covered in whatever.

Given it several rinses and shakes with assorted hardware and every time it brings off a bit more.

A truly amazing and effective process just so long as you are not in a hurry!

Got another Sloper tank to do after this one and then may do the Lambretta!

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The Sloper tank has been brewing for nearly a week now and is still giving up a fair amount of crud. A look inside with a torch and mirror shows a lot of clean metal with some areas that are still covered in whatever.

Given it several rinses and shakes with assorted hardware and every time it brings off a bit more.

A truly amazing and effective process just so long as you are not in a hurry!

Got another Sloper tank to do after this one and then may do the Lambretta!

Glad you find the process beneficial. It won't prizes for a speedy process, but I'll be using it again on 2 Atco Bullet style tanks soon.

Lambretta !. That takes me back to happy memories in the 60s :)

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You weren't one of the fur lined hooded parka lot were you Richard?

Despite being only 9 miles from Brighton when I was growing up, there was no local distinction (us n them)  between Mods n Rockers.. maybe I confused people because over a few years I had a 1965 Vespa SS180, 1958 Lambretta LDA150 Shaft Driven, 1960 Royal Enfield 350, 1966 Lambretta SX200 bored to 225 and a '65' 250 Greaves Challenger. The latter was consigned to 'Offroad Trials' after I got my first Car/Van .......maybe I had an identity crisis back then :wacko:     

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