C-120 refurb.

[Stormin 4,458]

I did think of mounting it underneath at first, but didn't know where it was originally. I'm going to have a way up of things today. Got plenty to think about now.

[The Fife Plooman 632]

Hi Normin

Let me see a picture of set up at back  where ram meets fulcrum for lifting

George S

[Stormin 4,458]

Page 21, George. A few photos on there.

[The Fife Plooman 632]

Hi Stormin

Can I have pics of the end of ram where it joins the plough lift hitch,  trial and it is great fun when it comes together      George S

[Stormin 4,458]

  All in bits now, George. After a good look, think and trying the cylinder under, over here and there, I've decided the set up is the best I can hope for. The fuel tank position is the main problem. I could remove it and fit another like on the Ds, but I don't want to alter things to much.

  I'll get a cylinder kit, then see how things go.

[Stormin 4,458]

  Hydraulics have been put on hold for now. I found that when ploughing, with the solid bar and fulcrum arrangement, I could lift the plough form out of the ground with no problem.

  What I did find today, was the left side rear hub had moved in again. On investigation, I found the dimple in the axle, was a little off centre with the extra bolt I'd fitted. The bolt was not engaging fully with the dimple. I carefully drilled down the bolt hole and opened out the dimple. I then found a long grub screw, with pointed end which located nicely in the dimple. A lock nut is also added to that. Hopefully no more trouble with that hub.

 The standard bolt is still fitted above the key.

 

 

 

[diggerjames 543]

11 hours ago, Stormin said:

  Hydraulics have been put on hold for now. I found that when ploughing, with the solid bar and fulcrum arrangement, I could lift the plough form out of the ground with no problem.

  What I did find today, was the left side rear hub had moved in again. On investigation, I found the dimple in the axle, was a little off centre with the extra bolt I'd fitted. The bolt was not engaging fully with the dimple. I carefully drilled down the bolt hole and opened out the dimple. I then found a long grub screw, with pointed end which located nicely in the dimple. A lock nut is also added to that. Hopefully no more trouble with that hub.

 The standard bolt is still fitted above the key.

 

 

 

Good idea Norm I've had to something similar to SAMs mark had a good idea on bendy with them plates !

[meadowfield 1,900]

One of bendys Hubs still moved with two set screws and the end cap!

[Stormin 4,458]

  Another thing I've been meaning to do for ages, I got done yesterday.  Wheel Horses can be beggars to start if not run for some time. Well mine can with fuel tank at rear. Some time ago, I fitted a boat primer bulb to the C-125. That fitted nicely under the seat, as the fender had a square hole there. The C-121 does not have that hole and not wanting to cut one, I had to find somewhere else to fit one. Below is the result.

 

 

 

[meadowfield 1,900]

Fits well, I could save myself a lot of cranking on the GT with one of those!

[Stormin 4,458]

Well worth fitting, Mark.

[Stormin 4,458]

 The Black Horse started playing up at the HVC rally. Symptoms of dirt in the fuel. This afternoon got it up on the lift and removed the float bowl.  Sure enough, fine particles of grit in there of what looked like rust.

 Shone a torch into the fuel tank, to reveal a layer of the same fine grit.  Disconnecting the fuel line from the pump, I drained fuel into a couple of clean coffee jars. Came out nice and clean.

 I then removed the fuel tap and rubber bung it fits into. Draining the fuel into a large jug while shaking the tractor from side to side. This dislodged some of the grit and I repeated the operation about four times till all the grit was out and the tank inside was spotless.

 Though the filter on the tap is undamaged, some of the finer particles had found their way through when I'd started up to unload at the HVC rally. The fuel being well shaken about on the trailer. There is no filter in the fuel line, but soon will be.

 How the grit got into the plastic tank, I don't know? Over the last year the tractors been on trailers several times and given no trouble. I'm going to check my jerry can to see if I've got dirty fuel the last time I filled it.

 

 

.

 

[C-101plowerpower 548]

Just now, Stormin said:

 The Black Horse started playing up at the HVC rally. Symptoms of dirt in the fuel. This afternoon got it up on the lift and removed the float bowl.  Sure enough, fine particles of grit in there of what looked like rust.

 Shone a torch into the fuel tank, to reveal a layer of the same fine grit.  Disconnecting the fuel line from the pump, I drained fuel into a couple of clean coffee jars. Came out nice and clean.

 I then removed the fuel tap and rubber bung it fits into. Draining the fuel into a large jug while shaking the tractor from side to side. This dislodged some of the grit and I repeated the operation about four times till all the grit was out and the tank inside was spotless.

 Though the filter on the tap is undamaged, some of the finer particles had found their way through when I'd started up to unload at the HVC rally. The fuel being well shaken about on the trailer. There is no filter in the fuel line, but soon will be.

 How the grit got into the plastic tank, I don't know? Over the last year the tractors been on trailers several times and given no trouble. I'm going to check my jerry can to see if I've got dirty fuel the last time I filled it.

 

 

.

 

 

people over in the states are having problems with this too, apearantly it's caused by ethanol fuels

[Stormin 4,458]

Mmmmm!  I think I'll have a look in the fuel tanks of the others. Not been giving problems, but they do have in line filters.

[nigel 1,876]

We have been having problems with the ethanol as well it goes off after a couple of months it draws in lots of moisture  and gums carbs up

[Stormin 4,458]

  I don't think the problem is caused by the petrol. I think Dibnah hit the ail on the head at Newby. Both the C-125 and Black Horse have fuel level caps. The C-125's float guide is spotless. The one on Black Horse was rusty. That is where the grit came from over a period of time. Even though I had given it a going over with emery cloth during the rebuild.

[Stormin 4,458]

  Started on another mod. Thanks to Doug, (ranger). I now have an electronic actuator and all the gubbins.

 

 The little bush I made, to take out some of the play in the slightly worn and oval eye.

 

 I also got the brackets welded on to mount it as below. Sorry about the poor quality of the photo.

 

 

I've made a couple of plates to help stiffen things up as well.

 

 

Everything has now had two coats of primer.

[Stormin 4,458]

  Put things together over the weekend. I made a clevis to attach ram to slot hitch. Then to see what depth I'd get with the plough down, I put the tractor on 6" blocks and attached the plough. This showed I'd get about 7" of depth. More than enough.

  To test the lift, I used the simple method of using two of the wires from actuator and touching them on the battery terminals. Pleased to say it lifted the plough with ease and gave enough ground clearance. Though a problem has shown up.

  The actuator works on a screw system. Motor turns and the ram screws out. When the plough is raised, its weight  causes the ram to slowly turn the motor and the plough slowly lowers.

  So I am now looking at a method of locking the plough in the raised position. This I think can be done using the lift lever with a cable attached to the hitch. It could also be a method of controlling plough depth.

  I may get time tomorrow afternoon to see what I can do and my next update will contain photo's.

 

[ranger 373]

57 minutes ago, Stormin said:

  Put things together over the weekend. I made a clevis to attach ram to slot hitch. Then to see what depth I'd get with the plough down, I put the tractor on 6" blocks and attached the plough. This showed I'd get about 7" of depth. More than enough.

  To test the lift, I used the simple method of using two of the wires from actuator and touching them on the battery terminals. Pleased to say it lifted the plough with ease and gave enough ground clearance. Though a problem has shown up.

  The actuator works on a screw system. Motor turns and the ram screws out. When the plough is raised, its weight  causes the ram to slowly turn the motor and the plough slowly lowers.

  So I am now looking at a method of locking the plough in the raised position. This I think can be done using the lift lever with a cable attached to the hitch. It could also be a method of controlling plough depth.

  I may get time tomorrow afternoon to see what I can do and my next update will contain photo's.

 

Glad to see it's working, Norm, if you can feed it with 24v it will be much faster, and have more power, 

If you use the relays instead of a D.T.D.P. Switch, the two motor wires will be linked when off, this will provide braking, like a cordless drill stops dead when you release the trigger, it will also provide an amount of 'locking', if you have a small DC motor, join the terminals and try to turn the shaft, You'll see the effect. Using a cable attached to the manual lift would be a good idea, especially when driving over rough ground. 

[Stormin 4,458]

  Spent the day trying to work out a way of using the lift lever, to lock the plough in the raised position. Oh joy and delight. All I've done is give myself a headache.   No way can I see a way to use a solid linkage, which I would prefer to a cable.  I'll wait and see what happens when the electrics are wired up using the relays. I think it'll be    

[Stormin 4,458]

  Spent the day trying to work out a way of using the lift lever, to lock the plough in the raised position. Oh joy and delight. All I've done is give myself a headache.   No way can I see a way to use a solid linkage, which I would prefer to a cable.  I'll wait and see what happens when the electrics are wired up using the relays. I think it'll be    

[ranger 373]

On 6 July 2016 at 5:06 PM, Stormin said:

  Spent the day trying to work out a way of using the lift lever, to lock the plough in the raised position. Oh joy and delight. All I've done is give myself a headache.   No way can I see a way to use a solid linkage, which I would prefer to a cable.  I'll wait and see what happens when the electrics are wired up using the relays. I think it'll be    

Think of the headaches the poor land rover design engineers suffer trying to place engine core plugs in the optimum location in the pursuit of, minimum outlay and maximum future income

looking at the problem from another angle, mount a 'slam' type latch, along the lines of a gate catch, to lock the hitch. Then use a 'pull and twist' 'choke' cable to release the latch or hold it in the open position.

[Stormin 4,458]

I like the latch idea.  Or maybe a spring loaded pin. I've got some choke cables.

[the showman 4,074]

What about using a bonnet lock and cable off a car ?

 

[Stormin 4,458]

5 minutes ago, the showman said:

What about using a bonnet lock and cable off a car ?

 

 

Only one of those I have is on the Mazda. Don't think Carol would be too pleased if I took it off.