C-120 refurb.

[Stormin 4,458]

I will have to get you to build one for my Turf trak

 

Lets see how/if it works first.

[Stormin 4,458]

 Just a little bit  done today. Motor/pump in place and hoses shortened and fitted. Switch wired up and ready to fit. Hydraulic fluid obtained from the farm.

    For tomorrow night.

[Stormin 4,458]

Wired things up today. Switch goes straight to the battery for now. It will be wired via the ignition switch eventually and fused. Filling the pump with hydraulic oil took some time. Due to where the pump is, the breather/filler is only accessible with an oil can.

Finally test time. Much to my delight the hitch went up and down a treat. So on with the plough. Wouldn't lift it.

After a bit of thinking, I decided to reposition the ram to fulcrum. Below is where it was.

As you can see, not much leverage. So, finding a bit of flat bar I bolted it to the arm, so it was extended. Ram fitted in after much fiddling. Plough back on and not holding out much hope, I tried again with baited breath.

Can't seem to get the short video on here, so I'll put it in the video section.

Just remembered. I have to go via U tube.

https://youtu.be/YrjilSgSi3o



[C-101plowerpower 548]

 

 

is the pressure relieve set right?

[the showman 4,074]

Looks good Norm, do you think it will pull it out of the ground ?

[meadowfield 1,900]

Great work Norm

[Stormin 4,458]

 

 

is the pressure relieve set right?

 

Don't think anything can be altered, Koen.

 

 

Looks good Norm, do you think it will pull it out of the ground ?

 

Not sure, Chris. Maybe with the use of lift lever as well. We'll see in time.

 

The ram leaks a little. With a new seal it may be smoother.

[Stormin 4,458]

Great work Norm

 

Thanks Mark. It's certainly a trial, but an enjoyable one. I think!

[Stormin 4,458]

As you can see, not much leverage. So, finding a bit of flat bar I bolted it to the arm, so it was extend.

 

  Now that is not strictly true. What I did was fit the ram to where the chain was fitted. After the test I then extended the arm. Today I fitted it and another problem reared it's head.  

  Because the arm is now longer, the fixed end of the cylinder needed to be further forward. The hose that comes out at right angle from the cylinder fouled the clutch pivot. OK, I'll turn the ram 90 degrees and re-route the pipe. Did that and now found the pipe fouled the side of the hood stand.

  So after much thinking and deliberating, I decided to cut a bit out of the hood stand. Not something I really wanted to do. That has been done and I was in the process of making a bracket for the cylinder when the electric went off.  

  This is definitely one of those jobs that makes you think, "Why did I start this?"  

[nigel 1,877]

it will be worth it norm, when your ploughing next with the showman you will wop his arse

[Ian 2,417]

Looks good Norm, do you think it will pull it out of the ground ?

 

I think it will lift the front wheels up

 

Nice work Norm, and much more fun than a lift cable

[Stormin 4,458]

  Got round to finishing and fitting the bracket this afternoon. Had to have two attempts. Found on the first one, the cylinder eye was to near the hand brake ratchet. There's so little room for error.  Had to move the bracket 1/2 inch back. How the cylinder is now positioned, allows full movement of the rod without fouling anything. Sounds simple, but took me about three hours.

 I've some pins to make for connecting things together, so R clips can be used instead of nuts and bolt. And a slight mod to the rear fulcrum.

 Also photo's to take for certain persons.

  Maybe the light at the end of the tunnel is drawing near.

[the showman 4,074]

Looking forward to some more photos Norm and a vid of it working

[Stormin 4,458]

 Got it all up and working now. First some photo's at start of play.

 

 Motor and pump piped up.

 

 

Cylinder in place. As you can see things are a bit tight. In third gear the lever only just clears the cylinder end.

 

 

 

Rear fulcrum. Couple of mods done to that before everything was connected up.

 

 

 I had the lift chain attached to the modified hitch at first. That would give plenty of depth, but little ground clearance when up. I then attached it to the slot hitch.  That gave me an estimated depth of around 4" and 3-1/2 of ground clearance. Moving the shackle one link on the chain will give more depth but less clearance.

 I'll put the tractor on blocks and do some experimentation. Maybe fit a turn buckle.

[the showman 4,074]

Brilliant Norm, i forgot you've got the fuel tank to contend with aswell !

[nigel 1,877]

great job norm

[Ian 2,417]

A nice job Norm, it fit's a treat and almost looks factory

[Stormin 4,458]

  Put  it up on 6" blocks today. On the ground I was getting an estimated 4" depth with 3" ground clearance when raised. I've moved the ram connection to arm up an 1", and connected the chain with same bolt as lift lever connecting bar. 

  I've now got a depth of 6" with plough flat on the ground. Just over 3" clear when raised. If I screw the plough right up, I get 5" and a bit clearance. I think this is the best I can hope for.

  When lifting the plough it will lift, but I think in use, especially in the ground, lift lever and hydraulics will be used.

  A micro switch will be fitted, to stop the ram in lower mode, before the other arm hits the tank. The one with chain etc connected to.

 The cylinder now is stripped ready for finding/getting/fitting a new cylinder/rod seal. Got a bit of a leak.

[expeatfarmer 591]

Looks very good Norm I would be tempted to have a tweak on the pressure relief valve as it sounds as if it is blowing when you lift.May be an issue when the plough is covered in mud and stubble.

[Stormin 4,458]

The pump etc was only meant to be lifting a cutter deck straight up and down. The plough hanging off the back will be increasing the weight it has to lift most likely.

 I'll get an overhaul kit for the cylinder, than see how it performs. Then I may tweak the release valves if possible.

[ranger 373]

  Put  it up on 6" blocks today. On the ground I was getting an estimated 4" depth with 3" ground clearance when raised. I've moved the ram connection to arm up an 1", and connected the chain with same bolt as lift lever connecting bar. 

  I've now got a depth of 6" with plough flat on the ground. Just over 3" clear when raised. If I screw the plough right up, I get 5" and a bit clearance. I think this is the best I can hope for.

  When lifting the plough it will lift, but I think in use, especially in the ground, lift lever and hydraulics will be used.

  A micro switch will be fitted, to stop the ram in lower mode, before the other arm hits the tank. The one with chain etc connected to.

 The cylinder now is stripped ready for finding/getting/fitting a new cylinder/rod seal. Got a bit of a leak.

Do you have room to fit a second cylinder in place of the lifting chain/link ? You would then have something like a hydraulic top link on a three point, if you set the position of the lift cylinder to give the maximum advantage, lift wise through the linkage,and then use the second cylinder to give the height you want for ground clearance.Fit a tap to lock off the 'top link' when required or allow the two to work together. It won't increase the lift capacity (unless you put the two side by side) but you'll effectively have  'longer' travel when needed.

 

Lookin good Norm.

[Stormin 4,458]

Just isn't the room really. While the cylinder is off I do have an idea floating about in my head. Thanks for the suggestion anyway.

[ranger 373]

Anchor the cylinder at the back so the piston moves forward, fit a pulley on the end of the piston, like an equalizer on trailer brakes, a couple of pulley's at the back for the cables to run over down to the hitch. This will give you more force because the oil will be acting over a larger surface area on the end of the piston. next question, do you have room for a cylinder like the one on "Bendy" ? PM me if you have.

[Stormin 4,458]

Mmmm! Pulleys? Something else to think about.

[meadowfield 1,900]

Like Doug says, the cylinder is more efficient pushing. The rod effectively reduces power in one direction.

Have you thought of mounting it like they were originally? I.e. On the left foot rest bar, then it pushes against a rocker on the end of the lift handle...