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Had to go and pick up a caravan from having a remote self levelling system fitted and while i was there I couldn't help but notice they had a large scrap pile. I just had to have a rummage ( i just couldn't help myself). I found a frame with a scissor lift and 3 electric 12 volt motors that came out of a mobility van. I asked the chap in the workshop if I could buy it and he said take what you want he even gave me a hand to load it, i gave him £20 for their teapot fund. I hitched up and was just about to leave when the boss came out and gave me the money back and said he was happy I could make use of it.

Good find Chris. I expect you will be paying regular visits there now to see what other goodie's end up on the pile.

Just had a google and it's called a 6 way power seat base, has a lift capacity of 300 lbs ( 136kg ) and the top has a 90 degree right swivel and 82 degree left swivel

Ok, maybe that wasn't such a short-ish break Back to the rear light box..Some of the welds down the sides needed a few extra blobs of weld to tidy them up.. The front edges needed a bead of weld to fuse metal together.. To make life easier I clamped on a flat brass bar to weld against as welds will not stick to the brass.. As you will of noticed on the above photo the longest which is also the top panel is a little on the wonky side.. A big thank you to Rob for the square which came in handy for showing how wonky wonky is.. As the metal is too stretched to hammer flat some extra straight strength needs to be added.. Starting with a strip of double skinned steel. Most of one skin was cut away leaving only a small rolled edge sort of thing. A quick trip to the sheet metal folder which I should use more than I do! Plug welded inside.. The bit of black box section is only to make sure everything clamps down flat.. Can you spot a slight problem here? Yep, the box is such a good tight fit it won't come back out again! The next step was to make some mounts for the rear light, but a parcel turned up containing these sprockets The rear light is going to have to wait, getting the drive train finally finished needs to come first.. Soooooo, the first sprocket on the lathe being bored out to a larger ID.. And that is this thread upto date again.. Hope your all enjoying the build

Morning all, time for another long overdue update.. Not having the sprockets at this point I was scratching around for something to do on MadTrax, so I thought I'd continue with the rear light.. Starting with this not quite flat steel sheet. By not quite flat I mean the sheet has had a big cross pattern pressed into it which I though would be good for the back of the light box.. Marked out ready for cutting. Lot's of chopping, welding and weld dressing later I had this. The cut out at the base is so the box can fit over the anit roll bar tube. These ar the buld holders I will be using.. This ally plate is the right thickness to hold the er.. holders nice and tight, so five holes and a bit of cleaning up later.. To mount the bulb holder plate to the inside of the light box but leave enough space behind for wiring etc I made one of these.. Captive nuts welded on the back. A quick bulb test fit. Curved panel made to fit the anti roll bar hole.. But before it was welded on the bulb holder plate was plug welded in.. Checking the bulb holder still fit.. They do A view inside. Lot's of welding and weld dressing to do.. That looks better Best check it still fit's MadTrax!! It does More to come after this short-ish break

Good spot mate, and a bargain too ! I see Lily was supervising

Depending on the age you want the newer model and the one with more parts available would be the TRA-10D, it replaced the TR-10D and both are newer than most of the AENL or BKN, which were 7.2 and 9 hp engines

As I don't have the sprockets yet (they will be ordered once I've finished this update) and most of the jobs left to do involve having the 90'd drive in place, I was scrathing around for something to do on MadTrax, so I decided to sort this little problem out! The problem being it should fit here (the tape is only to keep the dust etc out), but I don't have a key for it! But I do have this tank from a Honda CX trike with a locking cap... I feel a bit of tank slicing coming up It would of been a shame to scrap the fantasic art work... So I now have some more wall decoration The filler hole section was cut from the CX tank, cleaned up and tried for size on MadTrax's tank. To mark where I would need to cut on MT's tank I needed to cut out a small section so the new bit would sit flat.. And here is the very same hole after being part welded back in! Yes my brain wasn't functioning to well that day and I cut too much out! The correct size hole marked and cut out.. A test fit, only a few little tweaks needed.. While I was getting on with the welding Rob was cleaning all the paint off the locking cap thingy. Quite a few layers of paint! Ta-Daa As you can see with the flap open it needs a little bit of filler work.. Not much though I gave it a quick coat of paint to help show up where I may of missed any welding... Here's one of the holes. The new cap looks the part, I can't decide if it needs painting of just a coat of matt clear coat.. Time will tell

Morning all, sorry I've not been on MOM in a while, life has been er... Interesting shall we say! Anyway, an update for you.. Plenty more lathe work to go, I needed to make something that would fit over this stepped shaft on the TB input side of things. The reason being I need to fit a sprocket to the shaft but there isn't a keyway for location, only splines at the outer end. Lot of time was spent with some 40mm bar to create this. Outer splines presure fitted to the sleave one end, it will be welded also. Stepped inside to fit the shaft. It would of been nice to cut a taper inside to match taper on the shaft, but don't have the tools to do it.. Splined sleeve bolted on the TB shaft, the sleeve walls are not thick enough to cut a keyway so the sprocket will have to be welded on. Back to the 90'd drive thingy from the Honda Silverwing that I'm using to turn the drive around.. On the bike the rear wheel would of bolted to this bit. But I need to put the drive from the gearbox into the 90'd drive from this way... But how to bolt a sprocket to it? Starting with a slab of 10mm thick steel and a photo that won't turn the right way! To bolt the splined bit flush on the plate I had to cut a wide groove in one face. That looks good. To fit a sprocket to all this a shaft is needed.. This will do. It fits in the circular plate like this, the tapers will be filled with weld. The other side will get welded on and the welds turned down to look good on the lathe.. The shaft has been made over sized as I don't know the measurements until I get the sprockets and try to fit the whole thing in place. This is quite a big "whole thing" to fit!

It was at this point I started to have a few of those "Groundhog day" sort of moments! Having worked out how to make a shaft that fit's over the gearbox splines, has a bearing at the other end and also has a sproket in the middle, I proceeded to make a mess of things 3 times! Attempt 1... Having just checked the bearing fit I forgot to tighten the tailstock back up for the final cut! The result was some nice deep gouges! (not seen in this pic as I trimmed some more off to check which tools cut best) Attempt 2... Counted twice what I should of done and took too much metal off making the bearing a loose fit! Attempt 3!!! All was going well until I broke a small drill bit off about 1/2 inch in!! No way of getting it out! Attempt 4... In it's raw state And attempt 4 in it's finished (and correctly sized) state. Not a perfect finish inside, but the measurements are right. The splined bit pressure fitted, a nice tight fit.. It will be welded on then the welds and overhang will be tidied up on the lathe. And finally with the bearing, I still need to buy the sprockets but as they will need boring out to fit the shaft I could get on and make this part.. I have just started making a sleeve to fit over the TB input shaft... Let's hope I only need to make it once