Leaderboard

All the stickers in place, I'm waiting for a painted engine.

This arrived today all the way from Australia Now with the rest of the display

Good advise, I don't use the gasket punch kit very often and didn't at work much either (I used to repair train electronics, occasionally a new case seal or some custom mica insulators needed making). I've now made some more of the carb gaskets, without cutting them out before punching the holes. I was previously using a piece of chipboard that came in the packaging of a well known flatpack bookcase. I've now found another piece as the other one was rather worn out from punching cylinder & induction gaskets. Here are some from the batch I have made, with a third sheet of thinner gasket paper to get the correct thickness to match the original pair of red gaskets used between the induction housing & carb. I haven't checked yet but the thinner one maybe similar to the single gasket used on the early O&R engines. David

Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but I've found when making gaskets with not much 'meat' between a hole and the edge it's best to use a piece of gasket paper a fair bit bigger than the gasket needs to be and punch the holes out before cutting round the edge of the gasket. I've also found that placing the gasket on a piece of chipboard (I use an offcut from a kitchen cabinet) gives a much cleaner cut with the punch than using a piece of soft wood.

It's my opinion it would be fine with the new gasket material. Especially for the little one between the carb body and diaphragm as the thickness shouldn't effect anything as long as it's not too thin. The only issue with the others could be the governor touching the exhaust manifold but using 3 instead of 2 gaskets should cure that. Thicker would be better than thinner for that spot. I've used thick cork gasket material in the past for the carb to case gasket and the engine ran fine

All finished now and on to the next job on Pams list.