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Great suggestions. I just verified there is no screw in the center base of the jaws. I attempted the idea of chucking a hex and then hitting that and unfortunately that didn’t work either. This thing is being quite stubborn. Feels like if I hit it any harder I could jam something up in the gear box or in the engine. I may have to try the impact wrench idea next. Just to clarify, when it states to hit it in the counter clockwise direction I’m understanding that to mean CCW looking straight at the chuck, as David showed in his arrow picture, and not looking at it from the rear of the drill? CCW looking straight at the chuck would be the “Forward” direction for drilling.

I just bought some Hondabond gasket sealer for this same purpose. I haven’t opened up the tank yet to try it out but I think the Yamabond and Hondabond are equivalent.

Thanks David! That’s the technique I tried without any success. I’ll give it a couple more attempts. I didn’t want to go at too hard as I just k ow if I would mess anything up. I appreciate you confirming the process. Also good to know the two halves aren’t sealed. As always all your technical expertise is greatly appreciated! Clint

Any tips on how to remove the chuck? The service manual suggests using the chuck key but that didn’t seem to work. Also, I opened the oil fill plugs and it was 100% dry as a bone in there, not a single drop of oil and the gear teeth aren’t even oily or greasy. No signs of dried grease either. Does anyone know if the gearbox is a sealed two-piece construction where one half would have some lithium grease on the gears and the other side has oil? Or, does the oil flow all throughout the entire gearbox? I’m guessing if the oil goes all over then it’s a wet clutch?

Awesome, thank you David!

I’ve started digging into a Drillgine and I’m about to open up the gearbox. I noticed there are two threaded screw plugs that look to be oil fill holes, one on each side of the gearbox. Is this gearbox intended to be filled with oil or a light grease like Lubriplate. If it’s oil, what weight/type and how much? Also, if anyone has any tips on things to watch out for or common surprises when opening these gearboxes please let me know. is there a good substitute for the large rubber seal/ring that is on the outside output side of the engine between the engine and the gearbox? Thanks, Clint

Ahhhh, I didn’t connect the dots - I should have looked closer. That’s a pretty cool set up!

Not exactly, I was thinking the actual finger trigger end of it Or, is it some sort of twist throttle out at the handle?

Very cool, nice trimmer. Where is the throttle trigger positioned? I’m hoping to try to start my trimmer this afternoon before the big blizzard hits us. This will be the first attempt since getting the trimmer and going through the engine and gearbox. I hope the engine runs ok... Clint

John, Funny timing. I reached out to Eric a week or so ago to line up some cutting as well. I just placed an ordered for a large sheet of the rubber diaphragm material on Thursday of this week. As soon as it comes in I am also going to send it to Eric to have some diaphragms cut. He’s awesome and is also going to cut some more of the paper carberator gaskets. If we can source the other exhaust gasket and other gasket materials and stuff I’d certainly be interested in considering being part of a larger group order if there is interest. Clint

I found another Mechanix Illustrated with O&R but haven’t bought my own copy yet. I’ll add photos once I do. Yep, some of these applications are pretty interesting... Clint

This may have been posted already but here is another featured O&R from 1962. Looks like the Wonder Wheel as well as some other scooters and yard equipment.

These Paul Bunyan Chip-A-Saw chainsaws are incredible! You’re all lucky to own these

Wow, thats awesome to have all the paperwork with the unit!

Thanks David, amazing insight as always!

Very cool! I hadn’t seen that one before.

Haaaa, you’re too smart... great suggestion - I think I’ll do just that

Interesting, I’d be curious to see a photo of your trimmer.

Good reminder on the little bearings. I’m going to check out my local hardware store this weekend as well to see if they might have a suitable spring. I miss the old hardware stores I remember as a kid, those places are disappearing, along with good machine shops...

Thanks John! This one is just full speed.

All cleaned up and reassembled. I decided to go with the black decal- I think it looks nice with the original black Orline decal. Now I just need the weather to warm up so I can get it outside and test the engine.

David, That’s great, nice connection between the different springs. Definitely don’t ruin one of your good springs trying to determine this... I think this should be enough detail to find a suitable replacement. Thank you for all the help! Clint

Excellent, his is very helpful. I’ll try to get some better measurements as well on the locking spring. It’s good to know that the keeper is likely just a little piece of copper wire. This particular engine is one of the Type 133 military engines so I’m guessing it wasn’t repurposed for RC. It may had just gotten damaged over the years. When I got it the little post for the locker was busted in half so maybe a previously owner just decided to remove the whole Governor vane and mechanism. I do have another engine that was modified for RC and has the little throttle cable adjuster attached (see photo).

I added some photos. Actually it turns out that the sticker on the front of mine looks like it might have P-64. The sticker is damaged so it’s really hard to make out exactly what the number is before the “4” but it looks like a “6”. Then, the actual tag that has the serial number indicates P-5. All stickers look original to the engine.

Yes, I was equally disappointed as you might imagine. My guess is since it was hard to pull the starter rope he must have assumed that meant good compression. Or, it jammed when he pulled it to test it since it didn’t have any oil to lube the piston... Come to to think of it, the engine was missing the flywheel key as well so the flywheel wouldnt have been able to engage with the shaft to allow him to feel any compression.