CNew

Me too, because I have a ton of it now due to a minimum order buy requirement

The 0.006” vegetable fiber gasket material finally arrived. I’ve got a small piece soaking in fuel right now. I’ll let you all know if it looks likes it’s going to work.

That’s a really cool pump David!

David, What are some clues to tell the difference between the earlier and later models of this pump? Clint

Thanks David, I hadn’t seen the other Kenco post - much nicer than mine...

Very cool pump!

I found an old O&R Kenco Model 61 M pump today on a local Craigslist posting. Just got it home. This thing has had a hard life and has either been dropped or had something heavy fall on it. Unfortunately the starter rope guide has been broken off and the side of the front cover and engine cooling fins are crushed a bit. It’s missing the air cleaner and the tank is beat up. I think it’s still a pretty cool unit and I’m looking forward to giving it a good bath. In the last photo I spent maybe 10 minutes trying to wipe off some of the heavy caked on grease and grime just so I could bring it into the house. I’ll do a proper clean up job here some day.

The mounting flange on that red engine pictured above looks similar to one of the Keene pumps I’ve seen. Does anyone here have one of these cool Little Prospector units? http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/515078-what-weird-little-contraption.html

David, Let me know if at some point you need a couple. Clint

David, Thank you for updating the title, that’s much better! Clint

This is probably already known here but in case anyone is looking for a replacement seal/gasket for the intake flange where it connects to a gearbox, here is a square profile O-ring that I found from McMaster-Carr that looks like a good option. It’s Part# 4061T231 and is 11/16 ID so it make a nice snug seal on the flange.

Excellent, I think I’ll order some tonight and give it a try. Clint Yes, those are the gaskets I’m referring too. That’s funny about the album cover

Great, thanks David! I think I’ll attempt to reinstall the screen on this carb. Clint

How hot do you think that area of the engine gets? Most of the vegetable fiber material is good up to about 250F. There are some variants that have some NBR added that go up to 350F but I’m not finding them in the thin 0.006 range.

I think I may order some, there is a minimum of course... For this gasket I might cut my own to try it out first and then if it works maybe have Eric cut some.

I’m in the process of researching some gasket materials and wanted to get some opinions. I’m trying to find material suitable to use as the gasket inside the engine intake area. I’ve come across a material called Vegetable Fiber, also referred to as “Detroiter”, that looks like it might be the answer. It comes in thicknesses as thin as 0.006, 0.010 and 0.015”. I measured the existing gasket and came up with 0.006-0.007. The description indicates that the material is impregnated and can withstand gas, oil, etc. and is ideal for compressive sealing and flange applications. For grins I also measured the paper gasket for the carburetor on this particular engine and came up with 0.008 which is a little thinner than other carb gaskets I’ve seen in these engines. Perhaps this vegetable fiber gasket material might be another good option for the carb diaphragm gaskets vs the 1/64” Karropak material that is more common. What do you all think? https://www.allstategasket.com/info_gasket_material_style-1165.asp Clint

Great thanks! I took it out to clean everything up so I’ll see if I can reattach it and then close it all back up.

I’m rebuilding a carburetor and it has the little metal mesh screen. I’ve read on earlier posts that these are prone to clogging. I recall a David posting a service bulletin as well that recommended removing the screen. Before I button this back up - is it the consensus here to just remove the little screen and not worry about it?

This is awesome David! That picture is worth a 1000 words. I’ll study the manual you provided. Thank you for all the great tips and resources! Clint

Wow, that’s major! Thankfully I haven’t seen any significantly bent vanes yet on any of my engines. I’ll keep an eye out for it though...

I think I’m going to try the retaining ring approach first to just swap the plunger. Thanks David!

Are there any tricks or recommendations for reinstalling a recoil spring that has sprung from a 13B? Is the process more or less the same as a 13A?

Haaa- those are great! David, when the vane fell out did the engine exceed the max rpm?

John, That’s what I thought at first too but after closer inspection it is basically a very thin crimped metal retainer. It might be possible to gently lift the four little tabs that are folded over and crimped. I wish I had a couple spares to play with just in case it messes it up. I may scout eBay for some used ones to tinker with. Clint

David, As usual you are spot-on, there is indeed a small clip holding the plunger in place. Switch plungers might be the easy way for a fix! Thanks, Clint