CNew

I didn’t end up buying one of the forgets. I was on business travel yesterday and today and just missed out on a Petro Products Chug-A-Drill on eBay that ended up going for a total of $193. I hope someone on here was able to grab it.

That’s a nice looking trimmer David, very cool find! I really like the color and the twist throttle is a neat touch! Clint

David, John, You guys are awesome- thank you for the suggestions and photos, this is really helpful. I was thinking this might be how it should be put together. I’m going to make another short wire with a terminal end that connects to the points post and then either pigtail the wire ends with a wire nut or maybe I’ll add a small male/female bullet connector to each end for a clean connection. Thanks again! Clint

I’m finally getting to work on an O&R Sears Utility Lightweight chainsaw that I got quite awhile back and it looks like at some point someone hacked the wiring for the Start/Stop switch and I could use some guidance on the proper way to put this back together. This chainsaw looks to be basically the same as a Mustang 149 if that helps in narrowing the options. My primary question is how the connection should be made from the short yellow wire that exits the top section of the handle down to the engine. When I got the saw the switch did not work and a previous owner had spliced/soldered the little yellow wire from the switch directly into the wire from the condenser. Is that correct? Could I just simply extend the little yellow wire by soldering another short piece of wire that has a terminal connector and attach it to the points stud or is there a specific way this particular type of Start/Stop switch needs to be wired and spliced into the condenser? I believe the wiring inside the handle and to the actual switch is correct, it doesn’t appear anyone has tampered with it (at least that’s what I’m hoping for but I added a photo just in case).

I was a little surprised as well, I wasn’t having much success finding any suppliers that sold small pieces or sample packs.

David, Thank you for posting the photos of your pump- I can now see the slight differences. On thing that definitely stands out as different, besides the engine, is my engine has a flange the mounts directly to the side of the pump and it looks like yours has a couple metal brackets that mount at the sides of th engine and bolt to the base. Another piece mine is missing is the little stabilizer support arm/bracket near the top that attaches the engine to the main pump housing. Look so like something that shouldn’t be too difficult to fabricate. Clint

That certainly looks like something that could be scanned and 3D printed with either FDM or SLS technology in a Nylon material or even a higher performance polymer like PPSU, PEI or PEKK. If you decide to get it scanned sometime let me know and maybe I can give it a go with 3D printing. Might even be a good candidate for a machined version in aluminum. Heck it could also be machined from a stock shape of polymer.

Me too, because I have a ton of it now due to a minimum order buy requirement

The 0.006” vegetable fiber gasket material finally arrived. I’ve got a small piece soaking in fuel right now. I’ll let you all know if it looks likes it’s going to work.

That’s a really cool pump David!

David, What are some clues to tell the difference between the earlier and later models of this pump? Clint

Thanks David, I hadn’t seen the other Kenco post - much nicer than mine...

Very cool pump!

I found an old O&R Kenco Model 61 M pump today on a local Craigslist posting. Just got it home. This thing has had a hard life and has either been dropped or had something heavy fall on it. Unfortunately the starter rope guide has been broken off and the side of the front cover and engine cooling fins are crushed a bit. It’s missing the air cleaner and the tank is beat up. I think it’s still a pretty cool unit and I’m looking forward to giving it a good bath. In the last photo I spent maybe 10 minutes trying to wipe off some of the heavy caked on grease and grime just so I could bring it into the house. I’ll do a proper clean up job here some day.

The mounting flange on that red engine pictured above looks similar to one of the Keene pumps I’ve seen. Does anyone here have one of these cool Little Prospector units? http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/515078-what-weird-little-contraption.html

David, Let me know if at some point you need a couple. Clint

David, Thank you for updating the title, that’s much better! Clint

This is probably already known here but in case anyone is looking for a replacement seal/gasket for the intake flange where it connects to a gearbox, here is a square profile O-ring that I found from McMaster-Carr that looks like a good option. It’s Part# 4061T231 and is 11/16 ID so it make a nice snug seal on the flange.

Excellent, I think I’ll order some tonight and give it a try. Clint Yes, those are the gaskets I’m referring too. That’s funny about the album cover

Great, thanks David! I think I’ll attempt to reinstall the screen on this carb. Clint

How hot do you think that area of the engine gets? Most of the vegetable fiber material is good up to about 250F. There are some variants that have some NBR added that go up to 350F but I’m not finding them in the thin 0.006 range.

I think I may order some, there is a minimum of course... For this gasket I might cut my own to try it out first and then if it works maybe have Eric cut some.

I’m in the process of researching some gasket materials and wanted to get some opinions. I’m trying to find material suitable to use as the gasket inside the engine intake area. I’ve come across a material called Vegetable Fiber, also referred to as “Detroiter”, that looks like it might be the answer. It comes in thicknesses as thin as 0.006, 0.010 and 0.015”. I measured the existing gasket and came up with 0.006-0.007. The description indicates that the material is impregnated and can withstand gas, oil, etc. and is ideal for compressive sealing and flange applications. For grins I also measured the paper gasket for the carburetor on this particular engine and came up with 0.008 which is a little thinner than other carb gaskets I’ve seen in these engines. Perhaps this vegetable fiber gasket material might be another good option for the carb diaphragm gaskets vs the 1/64” Karropak material that is more common. What do you all think? https://www.allstategasket.com/info_gasket_material_style-1165.asp Clint

Great thanks! I took it out to clean everything up so I’ll see if I can reattach it and then close it all back up.

I’m rebuilding a carburetor and it has the little metal mesh screen. I’ve read on earlier posts that these are prone to clogging. I recall a David posting a service bulletin as well that recommended removing the screen. Before I button this back up - is it the consensus here to just remove the little screen and not worry about it?