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I ended up ordering the 951X “A” version. I’ll send some pics when it arrives.

Did some investigating today in search of a replacement kill switch for one that is broken on one of my O&R tools. I thought this might be helpful if anyone else is in need of a similar replacement. The little red push button switch looks to be identical to the Switchcraft 951 from Switchcraft. They have a model “A”, “B”, and “C” and I think it is the “A” version. I have one on order and will confirm once I receive it. This photo is of a good working order switch on a Drillgine. Clint

I love the clock you made using the Kohler engine cover, I was thinking of doing that for my early 1960s Cub Cadet 100. youve got a beautiful display of O&R tools, amazing!

Very Nice! I almost purchased those off eBay - glad you got them, especially since you have both tools in your collection! Nice examples of the tools by the way. I think there is another similar brochure listed on eBay right now in case you haven’t seen it. Cheers!

Very true, good catch David - graphite and aluminum probably wouldn’t get along all that well. I have seen the Klinersil material before, that might be a great option.

Thanks David - that was going to be my guess but it seemed like a little bit of an unusual place for a gasket. I guess it would help dampen the vibration. I’m about to cut two new gaskets for the gearbox on the Drillgine so we will see how that goes. I’ve got a new punch set to try out.

Based on some quick searching it appears the exhaust gaskets might be a flexible graphite type gasket material.

David, I recently purchased some gaskets that look to have come from a similar kit that you have pictured here and I’m curious what the two rectangular gaskets are for? Clint By the way I think Eric already has the file for cutting the exhaust collector gaskets. We just need to figure out what material to use and source some. I haven’t done any research on this gasket material yet but it appears to be some sort of dense rubber with fiber reinforcement and it needs to withstand some hot temperatures.

This is awesome David!

Thanks John! I’ve always been a fan of Lubriplate, been using it since I can remember helping my dad work on cars as a kid. I also really like Kano Kroil, stuff works wonders. I’ll have to check out the Corn Head grease, hadn’t heard of that one.

I’m in, Lubriplate it is! Thanks again for all the help and sharing of expertise!

David, Good to know, looks like some consistency toward no oil. Clint

Thanks David! I think I’ll go with the Lubriplate on this drill and see how it goes. Clint

Thanks John, I am leaning that direction as well. I will mainly be displaying this and running it occasionally. Clint

David, Thank you for researching through all your info. The Bridges reference is great to know, that’s much less oil than it would take to fill the gearbox chambers so that helps me think the amount needed is just enough to keep things generally lubed. When I cleaned everything this afternoon the only trace of remaining oil had all dried up and if I had to guess may have been about a teaspoon worth all said and done for what I probably scraped out. My drill is like the one in your second photo with the two fill holes.

Making some good progress on the Drillgine. Finally got the gearbox completely apart and everything cleaned (that was a chore and I’m a bit OCD when it comes to cleaning). I’ll be making some new gaskets as I put it back together. Back to the oil question- should I used a high viscosity gear oil like 90 or a standard 30 motor oil. I’m also using some Lubriplate along the way as I reassemble the gearboxes. Since there is an oil fill hole on each side of the drill is there a recommended procedure for adding the oil? Do you tilt the drill on its side and open the top plug and the bottom plug and add oil into the top plug hole until it runs out the bottom hole? I’m guessing the gearbox doesn’t need to be totally full of oil but I really have no idea.

David, This is great information, you never cease to amaze me the amount of info you have on these engines! I’ll take a closer look at everything on the engine and double check that things are set up correctly with the Governor. Clint

Thanks John! I’ll see if I can get a video this weekend. I have now adjusted the Governor spring mechanism to the lowest setting and I also turned in the main adjusting screw some so I’ll see if that will even things out a bit. I’ve seen a couple videos of Orline chainsaws where they seem to have a nice low idle and triggers throttle response (like the Ford O&R chainsaw video on YouTube). I guess that’s kind of what I was thinking/aiming to achieve. Clint

Thanks David! This engine has all the Governor and carb pieces. I’ll check again to see about the Governor vane but I think it was attached.

John, Great advice. I think I have the gasket materials covered but seals are a bit more challenging, except for the once where an o-ring will work. After looking at the drill a bit more I may not take the engine completely apart. The gear boxes aren’t an issue. I’m still trying to build up a stash of parts and unfortunately shaft seals don’t seem to come up very often so I’ll probably need to be fairly selective and cautious on which engines I end up going through completely. Speaking of idling, for a standard engine with no throttle control do these engines typically race at full rpm? I started one up the other day and it didn’t seem to want to idle, rather it seemed to rev at very very high rpm. I’m still learning about 2 strokes and how to tune them. clint

Thanks again for all the great advice and tips. We will see how things look once I open the gearbox and go through the engine.

I’ll look into the o-ring solution. I did find one seal on eBay so I can use it to figure out sizing.

Hopefully next time I won’t need to go to this extreme. I’m not sure why it was being so stubborn. It wasn’t rusted or anything either. I have a hex socket that chucked nicely and then I used the impact wrench, worked pretty well actually.

John, I had a chance to try the impact wrench this evening and that did the trick! Clint

Thanks for the tips John, I’ll give that a try. Clint