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Oh, sorry - I stumbled onto a partial Drillgine the other day on a Craigslist post. It’s not in the greates of condition but I think I can still salvage what’s there for some spare parts. The switch on it is broken and it made me curious enough to try to hunt down a replacement. I guess I probably don’t really need it but I thought if I could find the right one maybe it would come in handy some day, especially if I accidentally break a switch or find another O&R tool that needs one. I’ve also been thinking of maybe installing this type of switch on one of my display engines. This same type of switch is on my Orline Trimmer and it’s incorporated into the side of the blower housing. I kind of like the look and operation of this little switch instead of the little brass strip and I might come up with a way to use it as part of an engine display stand. Speaking of display stands, I was a able to find a couple nice pieces at the local steel supply store that look like they would make nice semi-decorative bases for displaying these engines. I’ll have to come up with a mounting bracket. More fun projects for this Spring.

David, Thanks - Yes, I did the air test with the carb and it only passed air when pressing the button so I think that seems to work. I cleaned the tank, added new line inside and cleaned the pick-up filter and added a small in-line filter as well so it should be ok. Looks like I may be down to the seals or reed valve, hadn’t thought of that one. I’m hoping to get back to the other engine that was running at high speed this weekend and hopefully figure something out on it. Thank you for all the great advice and suggestions, always very much appreciate it! Clint

Haaa! Interesting, do all the Wheelhorse tractors in the UK have Tecumseh engines only?

You’re spot on, that’s exactly what happened on this Drillgine

Thanks John, I’m definitely learning the quirks on these things. It was a nice feeling when the Drillgine finally fired up, its such a cool tool. After some further messing around on the Orline Trimmer it appears that maybe the carb primer isn’t really working after all. I rebuilt everything but it doesn’t seem to be pumping. I’ll have to open it up again to see what’s going on in there.

Success, I just got the Drillgine running. It will take some additional tuning to dial it in but it sounds great and I’m excited to see it purrr!

Ok, so I’m in need of some advice. I recently thoroughly cleaned and went through an Orline Trimmer and a Drillgine. After putting everything back together both engines had super clean and adjusted points to 0.020” producing nice hot blue spark (plug set at 0.030”), adjusted the coil/flywheel to 0.010”, completely cleaned carburetors with new diaphragms and gaskets, needle valves adjusted to 1 1/2 turns out from seated, set the Governor linkage to a low notch, and everything looks to be in good order. Upon trying to start both engines I get nothing, not even a hint of them trying to fire. They both seem to have excellent compression and are getting fuel to the carburetor (I actually flooded a couple of times during the process with some signs of fuel spitting out the muffler). Is there maybe something basic I’m overlooking? I didn’t replace the seals on either engine but they looked in decent condition.

I ended up ordering the 951X “A” version. I’ll send some pics when it arrives.

Did some investigating today in search of a replacement kill switch for one that is broken on one of my O&R tools. I thought this might be helpful if anyone else is in need of a similar replacement. The little red push button switch looks to be identical to the Switchcraft 951 from Switchcraft. They have a model “A”, “B”, and “C” and I think it is the “A” version. I have one on order and will confirm once I receive it. This photo is of a good working order switch on a Drillgine. Clint

I love the clock you made using the Kohler engine cover, I was thinking of doing that for my early 1960s Cub Cadet 100. youve got a beautiful display of O&R tools, amazing!

Very Nice! I almost purchased those off eBay - glad you got them, especially since you have both tools in your collection! Nice examples of the tools by the way. I think there is another similar brochure listed on eBay right now in case you haven’t seen it. Cheers!

Very true, good catch David - graphite and aluminum probably wouldn’t get along all that well. I have seen the Klinersil material before, that might be a great option.

Thanks David - that was going to be my guess but it seemed like a little bit of an unusual place for a gasket. I guess it would help dampen the vibration. I’m about to cut two new gaskets for the gearbox on the Drillgine so we will see how that goes. I’ve got a new punch set to try out.

Based on some quick searching it appears the exhaust gaskets might be a flexible graphite type gasket material.

David, I recently purchased some gaskets that look to have come from a similar kit that you have pictured here and I’m curious what the two rectangular gaskets are for? Clint By the way I think Eric already has the file for cutting the exhaust collector gaskets. We just need to figure out what material to use and source some. I haven’t done any research on this gasket material yet but it appears to be some sort of dense rubber with fiber reinforcement and it needs to withstand some hot temperatures.

This is awesome David!

Thanks John! I’ve always been a fan of Lubriplate, been using it since I can remember helping my dad work on cars as a kid. I also really like Kano Kroil, stuff works wonders. I’ll have to check out the Corn Head grease, hadn’t heard of that one.

I’m in, Lubriplate it is! Thanks again for all the help and sharing of expertise!

David, Good to know, looks like some consistency toward no oil. Clint

Thanks David! I think I’ll go with the Lubriplate on this drill and see how it goes. Clint

Thanks John, I am leaning that direction as well. I will mainly be displaying this and running it occasionally. Clint

David, Thank you for researching through all your info. The Bridges reference is great to know, that’s much less oil than it would take to fill the gearbox chambers so that helps me think the amount needed is just enough to keep things generally lubed. When I cleaned everything this afternoon the only trace of remaining oil had all dried up and if I had to guess may have been about a teaspoon worth all said and done for what I probably scraped out. My drill is like the one in your second photo with the two fill holes.

Making some good progress on the Drillgine. Finally got the gearbox completely apart and everything cleaned (that was a chore and I’m a bit OCD when it comes to cleaning). I’ll be making some new gaskets as I put it back together. Back to the oil question- should I used a high viscosity gear oil like 90 or a standard 30 motor oil. I’m also using some Lubriplate along the way as I reassemble the gearboxes. Since there is an oil fill hole on each side of the drill is there a recommended procedure for adding the oil? Do you tilt the drill on its side and open the top plug and the bottom plug and add oil into the top plug hole until it runs out the bottom hole? I’m guessing the gearbox doesn’t need to be totally full of oil but I really have no idea.

David, This is great information, you never cease to amaze me the amount of info you have on these engines! I’ll take a closer look at everything on the engine and double check that things are set up correctly with the Governor. Clint

Thanks John! I’ll see if I can get a video this weekend. I have now adjusted the Governor spring mechanism to the lowest setting and I also turned in the main adjusting screw some so I’ll see if that will even things out a bit. I’ve seen a couple videos of Orline chainsaws where they seem to have a nice low idle and triggers throttle response (like the Ford O&R chainsaw video on YouTube). I guess that’s kind of what I was thinking/aiming to achieve. Clint