CNew

Thanks for the link David, I think I’ve seen that listing before, too bad they’re asking so much for those brochures.

Great idea David. I’ll take a closer look this evening to see how the plunger is attached. I don’t recall seeing a little ring clip but I’ll see if it has one or something similar. Clint

Thanks for the tip Chris! I’ll have to try that sometime. Clint

Unfortunately I can’t afford it right now but I thought someone here might appreciate this unit. I’ve never seen one before, guessing it’s pretty rare. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Fogger-Industrial-OHLSSON-RICE-O-R-NOS-Small-Gas-Engine-Cold-Aerosol/223464897123?hash=item34078bba63:g:iMEAAOSwd5xcnnaP

I took a close look at th new switch and it doesn’t look like it comes apart so removing the insulating ring is probably not an option.

David, That’s very helpful, thank you for the photo of the wire on the tag! You e got me curious now, I’ll have to go look at this switch and see if it’s all one piece like the one you show. Clint

That’s great! If I’m ever out your way I’d definitely like to meet you and maybe catch a glimpse of your collection. We actually have one of our company locations in Boston. If I get out there this summer I’ll keep you posted.

John, Another great option. I’ll fiddle with the switch and see if the isolation ring is easy to remove, seems like it would be possible. That would definitely simplify things a bit more. Clint

Good point John! I’m still getting use to these little screamers - they’re so different from standard 4 cylinders so I’m still getting use to the high rpms. They seem like they want to explode

Thank you David - I would not have been able to figure that out on my own, electrical stuff is not my strong suit! I’m pretty sure I’m tracking with your guidance for the insulated and bare wires with regard to the two tags. When I finally get around to installing one of these new switches I’ll be sure to send a picture before I actually put it on the tool. Clint

David, Success, I was finally able to get the sprocket free from the taper. It took some negotiation before it finally let loose, definitely being stubborn... It even started separating the center shaft splines from the main gear hub but I was able to tap that all back together ok. That was probably more work than needed just to clean up the case of old grease but it’ll be peace of mind knowing it was all cleaned and the bearings were checked and greased and the gear itself is all free of old gunk. I appreciate all all the help! Clint

Everything checks out, vane and throttle are moving freely. I was able to fix the spring so it’s now in good working order as well. Nice find on the A-50 throttle cable assembly - wish I could find one for $1.00

David, Awesome, thank you very much for the recommendations and for sending the removal info from the manual. I’ll give these approaches a try. Much appreciate! Clint

The parts Drillgine is an older type, before the AEP 13B engine.

I am trying to disassemble a gearbox off an O&R chainsaw and it looks as though the sprocket should separate from the main gear shaft. I removed the little 5/16” head screw but the sprocket is not budging. I attempted some slight prying with a screw driver as well as some light tapping with a flat head punch. Nothing seems to work. Before I go any further and risk damaging something does anyone have any suggestions on what I might try? Thanks, Clint

I played around with the other engine a little bit today and I think it’s running better now. I used a Q-tip pushed through the throttle cable holes on the side of the carb to allow me to toggle the throttle and get a little better control on the speed, especially for the lower/idle speed. If I can find a spare throttle cable from an O&R chainsaw or something I may try to rig it up as part of the engine display/test stand.

The Switchcraft 951X “A” switch arrived today. Looks almost identical to the original. It has one extra tab so I’ll have to figure out which tab to solder the wire that goes to the threaded post on the back side of the points.

Those are really cool tags! I will have to look at the carb again and see if it’s the same. The one pictured on the tag does remind me of the carbs I’ve seen on the 1hp TAS 12B Engines that we’re used on little outboard boat motors kind of like the Auqabug. I think even Sears had one called the Gamefisher that used a TAS 12B.

Oh, sorry - I stumbled onto a partial Drillgine the other day on a Craigslist post. It’s not in the greates of condition but I think I can still salvage what’s there for some spare parts. The switch on it is broken and it made me curious enough to try to hunt down a replacement. I guess I probably don’t really need it but I thought if I could find the right one maybe it would come in handy some day, especially if I accidentally break a switch or find another O&R tool that needs one. I’ve also been thinking of maybe installing this type of switch on one of my display engines. This same type of switch is on my Orline Trimmer and it’s incorporated into the side of the blower housing. I kind of like the look and operation of this little switch instead of the little brass strip and I might come up with a way to use it as part of an engine display stand. Speaking of display stands, I was a able to find a couple nice pieces at the local steel supply store that look like they would make nice semi-decorative bases for displaying these engines. I’ll have to come up with a mounting bracket. More fun projects for this Spring.

David, Thanks - Yes, I did the air test with the carb and it only passed air when pressing the button so I think that seems to work. I cleaned the tank, added new line inside and cleaned the pick-up filter and added a small in-line filter as well so it should be ok. Looks like I may be down to the seals or reed valve, hadn’t thought of that one. I’m hoping to get back to the other engine that was running at high speed this weekend and hopefully figure something out on it. Thank you for all the great advice and suggestions, always very much appreciate it! Clint

Haaa! Interesting, do all the Wheelhorse tractors in the UK have Tecumseh engines only?

You’re spot on, that’s exactly what happened on this Drillgine

Thanks John, I’m definitely learning the quirks on these things. It was a nice feeling when the Drillgine finally fired up, its such a cool tool. After some further messing around on the Orline Trimmer it appears that maybe the carb primer isn’t really working after all. I rebuilt everything but it doesn’t seem to be pumping. I’ll have to open it up again to see what’s going on in there.

Success, I just got the Drillgine running. It will take some additional tuning to dial it in but it sounds great and I’m excited to see it purrr!

Ok, so I’m in need of some advice. I recently thoroughly cleaned and went through an Orline Trimmer and a Drillgine. After putting everything back together both engines had super clean and adjusted points to 0.020” producing nice hot blue spark (plug set at 0.030”), adjusted the coil/flywheel to 0.010”, completely cleaned carburetors with new diaphragms and gaskets, needle valves adjusted to 1 1/2 turns out from seated, set the Governor linkage to a low notch, and everything looks to be in good order. Upon trying to start both engines I get nothing, not even a hint of them trying to fire. They both seem to have excellent compression and are getting fuel to the carburetor (I actually flooded a couple of times during the process with some signs of fuel spitting out the muffler). Is there maybe something basic I’m overlooking? I didn’t replace the seals on either engine but they looked in decent condition.