CNew

How hot do you think that area of the engine gets? Most of the vegetable fiber material is good up to about 250F. There are some variants that have some NBR added that go up to 350F but I’m not finding them in the thin 0.006 range.

I think I may order some, there is a minimum of course... For this gasket I might cut my own to try it out first and then if it works maybe have Eric cut some.

I’m in the process of researching some gasket materials and wanted to get some opinions. I’m trying to find material suitable to use as the gasket inside the engine intake area. I’ve come across a material called Vegetable Fiber, also referred to as “Detroiter”, that looks like it might be the answer. It comes in thicknesses as thin as 0.006, 0.010 and 0.015”. I measured the existing gasket and came up with 0.006-0.007. The description indicates that the material is impregnated and can withstand gas, oil, etc. and is ideal for compressive sealing and flange applications. For grins I also measured the paper gasket for the carburetor on this particular engine and came up with 0.008 which is a little thinner than other carb gaskets I’ve seen in these engines. Perhaps this vegetable fiber gasket material might be another good option for the carb diaphragm gaskets vs the 1/64” Karropak material that is more common. What do you all think? https://www.allstategasket.com/info_gasket_material_style-1165.asp Clint

Great thanks! I took it out to clean everything up so I’ll see if I can reattach it and then close it all back up.

I’m rebuilding a carburetor and it has the little metal mesh screen. I’ve read on earlier posts that these are prone to clogging. I recall a David posting a service bulletin as well that recommended removing the screen. Before I button this back up - is it the consensus here to just remove the little screen and not worry about it?

This is awesome David! That picture is worth a 1000 words. I’ll study the manual you provided. Thank you for all the great tips and resources! Clint

Wow, that’s major! Thankfully I haven’t seen any significantly bent vanes yet on any of my engines. I’ll keep an eye out for it though...

I think I’m going to try the retaining ring approach first to just swap the plunger. Thanks David!

Are there any tricks or recommendations for reinstalling a recoil spring that has sprung from a 13B? Is the process more or less the same as a 13A?

Haaa- those are great! David, when the vane fell out did the engine exceed the max rpm?

John, That’s what I thought at first too but after closer inspection it is basically a very thin crimped metal retainer. It might be possible to gently lift the four little tabs that are folded over and crimped. I wish I had a couple spares to play with just in case it messes it up. I may scout eBay for some used ones to tinker with. Clint

David, As usual you are spot-on, there is indeed a small clip holding the plunger in place. Switch plungers might be the easy way for a fix! Thanks, Clint

Thanks for the link David, I think I’ve seen that listing before, too bad they’re asking so much for those brochures.

Great idea David. I’ll take a closer look this evening to see how the plunger is attached. I don’t recall seeing a little ring clip but I’ll see if it has one or something similar. Clint

Thanks for the tip Chris! I’ll have to try that sometime. Clint

Unfortunately I can’t afford it right now but I thought someone here might appreciate this unit. I’ve never seen one before, guessing it’s pretty rare. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Fogger-Industrial-OHLSSON-RICE-O-R-NOS-Small-Gas-Engine-Cold-Aerosol/223464897123?hash=item34078bba63:g:iMEAAOSwd5xcnnaP

I took a close look at th new switch and it doesn’t look like it comes apart so removing the insulating ring is probably not an option.

David, That’s very helpful, thank you for the photo of the wire on the tag! You e got me curious now, I’ll have to go look at this switch and see if it’s all one piece like the one you show. Clint

That’s great! If I’m ever out your way I’d definitely like to meet you and maybe catch a glimpse of your collection. We actually have one of our company locations in Boston. If I get out there this summer I’ll keep you posted.

John, Another great option. I’ll fiddle with the switch and see if the isolation ring is easy to remove, seems like it would be possible. That would definitely simplify things a bit more. Clint

Good point John! I’m still getting use to these little screamers - they’re so different from standard 4 cylinders so I’m still getting use to the high rpms. They seem like they want to explode

Thank you David - I would not have been able to figure that out on my own, electrical stuff is not my strong suit! I’m pretty sure I’m tracking with your guidance for the insulated and bare wires with regard to the two tags. When I finally get around to installing one of these new switches I’ll be sure to send a picture before I actually put it on the tool. Clint

David, Success, I was finally able to get the sprocket free from the taper. It took some negotiation before it finally let loose, definitely being stubborn... It even started separating the center shaft splines from the main gear hub but I was able to tap that all back together ok. That was probably more work than needed just to clean up the case of old grease but it’ll be peace of mind knowing it was all cleaned and the bearings were checked and greased and the gear itself is all free of old gunk. I appreciate all all the help! Clint

Everything checks out, vane and throttle are moving freely. I was able to fix the spring so it’s now in good working order as well. Nice find on the A-50 throttle cable assembly - wish I could find one for $1.00

David, Awesome, thank you very much for the recommendations and for sending the removal info from the manual. I’ll give these approaches a try. Much appreciate! Clint