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I’m still tinkering with this 13B starter recoil. The 20A instructions are helpful but also a little confusing but I think I’ll figure it out. I’m thinking a couple of the steps don’t really apply since the rope spool is different and the way it all mounts to the blower cowl is different as well. Hopefully I don’t get the spring wrong and break it...
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Finally getting back to this 13B recoil spring. I’ve gotten as far as getting the spring wound and secured inside the housing. Next step will be to replace the pull rope since someone used an incorrect diameter rope and length. Then I’ll attempt the CCW spring winding and install procedure that David so kindly referenced in the 20A service manual.
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Wow - that’s impressive! I’d never heard of that trick before. I’ve seen 0000 steel wool but never aluminum foil. I know what I’m going to try on my next handle clean up job
Clint
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Yes, the one For $149 is the one I was referencing - I indicated $193 because I was including the $43 shipping costs in the total.
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Thanks David, that’s good to know. I didn’t pick up on that bracket detail at first.
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I didn’t end up buying one of the forgets.
I was on business travel yesterday and today and just missed out on a Petro Products Chug-A-Drill on eBay that ended up going for a total of $193. I hope someone on here was able to grab it.
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That’s a nice looking trimmer David, very cool find! I really like the color and the twist throttle is a neat touch!
Clint
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David, John,
You guys are awesome- thank you for the suggestions and photos, this is really helpful. I was thinking this might be how it should be put together. I’m going to make another short wire with a terminal end that connects to the points post and then either pigtail the wire ends with a wire nut or maybe I’ll add a small male/female bullet connector to each end for a clean connection.
Thanks again!
Clint
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I’m finally getting to work on an O&R Sears Utility Lightweight chainsaw that I got quite awhile back and it looks like at some point someone hacked the wiring for the Start/Stop switch and I could use some guidance on the proper way to put this back together. This chainsaw looks to be basically the same as a Mustang 149 if that helps in narrowing the options. My primary question is how the connection should be made from the short yellow wire that exits the top section of the handle down to the engine. When I got the saw the switch did not work and a previous owner had spliced/soldered the little yellow wire from the switch directly into the wire from the condenser. Is that correct? Could I just simply extend the little yellow wire by soldering another short piece of wire that has a terminal connector and attach it to the points stud or is there a specific way this particular type of Start/Stop switch needs to be wired and spliced into the condenser? I believe the wiring inside the handle and to the actual switch is correct, it doesn’t appear anyone has tampered with it (at least that’s what I’m hoping for but I added a photo just in case).
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I was a little surprised as well, I wasn’t having much success finding any suppliers that sold small pieces or sample packs.
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David,
Thank you for posting the photos of your pump- I can now see the slight differences. On thing that definitely stands out as different, besides the engine, is my engine has a flange the mounts directly to the side of the pump and it looks like yours has a couple metal brackets that mount at the sides of th engine and bolt to the base.
Another piece mine is missing is the little stabilizer support arm/bracket near the top that attaches the engine to the main pump housing. Look so like something that shouldn’t be too difficult to fabricate.
Clint
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That certainly looks like something that could be scanned and 3D printed with either FDM or SLS technology in a Nylon material or even a higher performance polymer like PPSU, PEI or PEKK. If you decide to get it scanned sometime let me know and maybe I can give it a go with 3D printing.
Might even be a good candidate for a machined version in aluminum. Heck it could also be machined from a stock shape of polymer.
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Me too, because I have a ton of it now due to a minimum order buy requirement
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The 0.006” vegetable fiber gasket material finally arrived. I’ve got a small piece soaking in fuel right now. I’ll let you all know if it looks likes it’s going to work.
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That’s a really cool pump David!
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David,
What are some clues to tell the difference between the earlier and later models of this pump?
Clint
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Thanks David, I hadn’t seen the other Kenco post - much nicer than mine...
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I found an old O&R Kenco Model 61 M pump today on a local Craigslist posting. Just got it home. This thing has had a hard life and has either been dropped or had something heavy fall on it. Unfortunately the starter rope guide has been broken off and the side of the front cover and engine cooling fins are crushed a bit. It’s missing the air cleaner and the tank is beat up. I think it’s still a pretty cool unit and I’m looking forward to giving it a good bath. In the last photo I spent maybe 10 minutes trying to wipe off some of the heavy caked on grease and grime just so I could bring it into the house. I’ll do a proper clean up job here some day.
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The mounting flange on that red engine pictured above looks similar to one of the Keene pumps I’ve seen.
Does anyone here have one of these cool Little Prospector units?
http://www.treasurenet.com/forums/gold-prospecting/515078-what-weird-little-contraption.html
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David,
Let me know if at some point you need a couple.
Clint
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David,
Thank you for updating the title, that’s much better!
Clint
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This is probably already known here but in case anyone is looking for a replacement seal/gasket for the intake flange where it connects to a gearbox, here is a square profile O-ring that I found from McMaster-Carr that looks like a good option. It’s Part# 4061T231 and is 11/16 ID so it make a nice snug seal on the flange.
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Excellent, I think I’ll order some tonight and give it a try.
Clint
Yes, those are the gaskets I’m referring too. That’s funny about the album cover
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Great, thanks David! I think I’ll attempt to reinstall the screen on this carb.
Clint
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