CNew

First trial run on carb springs.
I'll get the system down better but made some progress grinding the center. Then just cut them with snips but I'll work on grinding the two legs for a more uniform and precise spring. Will have to make some sort of jig. The .003 material seems good and there's plenty of it for making mistakes.

Thank you for the reply, very helpful.
Here are some pics of one, maybe you could identify the small piece I found in the box it came in. I also would be interested in any parts you could lead me too that I might need to rebuild 2 carburetors. Could also use a new black receptacle. 
  Again, appreciate your thoughts .
 
Rob

I thought a new thread would be a good idea for looking to source new Bowden cable/conduit tubing for the O&R throttle cables.
 
I have a long NOS conduit here (the inner wire is a separate part) which I've measured today, with the plastic sleeving on it measures approx 0.145" to 0.15" (depending where you measure) and the steel core measures 0.125". The separate inner wire measures approx 0.047", this may vary slightly too. I noticed the plastic coating is removed where it enters the carb on my mini-bike.
 
Here is a thread on another forum (which was one of the first search results I found the other night), there are a few different suppliers mentioned that have different types of Bowden cable.
https://forums.stanwinstonschool.com/discussion/4182/extra-fine-bowden-cable
 
One of the links has some conduit tubing that might be suitable, the second one in the list could be suitable with the plastic removed (OD is 0.153" with plastic coating), maybe email them to confirm.
https://bergencable.com/_media/products/control_cables/pdfs/conduit.pdf
 
David

Mine has a rubber sealing ring for the feather valve to the crankcase seal (it is squashed into the what looks like a square section, I didn't take it off to check), no paper gaskets, they don't have them according to the parts list.
The exhaust collector apparently also has a sealing ring, I haven't taken mine apart as I don't want to damage it knowing that no NOS ones exist to copy the sizes from (pre-squashed).

 
You may notice mine doesn't have the fourth hole in the induction housing casting, the crankcase has all four threaded holes but no counterbore for the small o-ring (unlike yours which does).

 
The bronze cages are also used in the later model aeroplane engines, I never took the bearings out of my early Compact, so never found out that they had used them very briefly for these engines, you should notice all the bearing cages (apart from the con-rod) are the half cage versions.
 
Other differences you should notice are the stud & nut for the fourth threaded hole in the base tank and no oil hole in the starter rivet (with no mention on the decal either).

 
David

Ok, got this really cool engine and I know it’s an early one. Might need David’s insights for this one. There aren’t any markings on it as far as I can tell, no model or serial numbers.  This is as-received and I haven’t touched it yet but looking forward to giving it a bath.  Unfortunately the engine and the gear box are both sieved up. I pulled the plug and the top of the piston looks surprisingly clean.  Missing the air cleaner. Has a push-pull throttle cable and a little pulley (probably an add-on).  I have no idea of the application, maybe a compressor or something.  This is definitely the oldest O&R in my collection now.

I finally got the entire engine dismantled. Some interesting observations (at least to me anyway):
the engineering on these early engines is exquisite, noticeably different from the later versions this one has metal roller bearings throughout, and some of the cages look to be bronze, very nice piston has 3 large rings no rubber seals anywhere and no gaskets inside- all the machining seems to be really tighten tolerance (no feather vane gaskets and no little rubber induction case seals. The only thing that resembled a seal is some thin black coating stuff that looked like a thin layer of gasket maker where the feather vane gasket would normally go connecting rod uses a pretty cool two-piece roller bearing that is made of aluminum the points are a little different too and have a slotted piece that catches the copper tab It’s starting to clean up nicely. I can tell by the piston, cylinder and the internals that this thing hasn’t been run much, zero carbonization or anything, just a light coating of dried oil/gas varnish. I’m pretty certain I’m the first one to open this one up, didn’t see any signs of others getting into it.

Made a little progress on this just now. Juggling between some paint work and fabricating a display stand for the cut-away engine.
 
Good news, I was able to free the piston. It’s still a little snug but I think it’s free enough that when I go to remove the cylinder head it shouldn’t snap the con rod (hopefully). Although the gear box was pretty much empty and stuck I was able to get it free. The clutch has the little cork pads and they hand seized up in the clutch housing.  I was surprised to see the plastic gear.  The recoil was also jammed up but I got that moving too. SO overall the vitals seem good. I’m actually starting to think this one may not have much mileage on it. 
 
! Before I go and do something stupid I wanted to check in with the experts to see if the flywheel nut on the older models are normal thread or if by chance they might be reverse thread!
 
These older models definitely look different inside, pretty cool (for me) since this is the first one like this I’ve had and opened up.
 

I finally got the entire engine dismantled. Some interesting observations (at least to me anyway):
the engineering on these early engines is exquisite, noticeably different from the later versions this one has metal roller bearings throughout, and some of the cages look to be bronze, very nice piston has 3 large rings no rubber seals anywhere and no gaskets inside- all the machining seems to be really tighten tolerance (no feather vane gaskets and no little rubber induction case seals. The only thing that resembled a seal is some thin black coating stuff that looked like a thin layer of gasket maker where the feather vane gasket would normally go connecting rod uses a pretty cool two-piece roller bearing that is made of aluminum the points are a little different too and have a slotted piece that catches the copper tab It’s starting to clean up nicely. I can tell by the piston, cylinder and the internals that this thing hasn’t been run much, zero carbonization or anything, just a light coating of dried oil/gas varnish. I’m pretty certain I’m the first one to open this one up, didn’t see any signs of others getting into it.

Made a little progress on this just now. Juggling between some paint work and fabricating a display stand for the cut-away engine.
 
Good news, I was able to free the piston. It’s still a little snug but I think it’s free enough that when I go to remove the cylinder head it shouldn’t snap the con rod (hopefully). Although the gear box was pretty much empty and stuck I was able to get it free. The clutch has the little cork pads and they hand seized up in the clutch housing.  I was surprised to see the plastic gear.  The recoil was also jammed up but I got that moving too. SO overall the vitals seem good. I’m actually starting to think this one may not have much mileage on it. 
 
! Before I go and do something stupid I wanted to check in with the experts to see if the flywheel nut on the older models are normal thread or if by chance they might be reverse thread!
 
These older models definitely look different inside, pretty cool (for me) since this is the first one like this I’ve had and opened up.
 

I finally got the entire engine dismantled. Some interesting observations (at least to me anyway):
the engineering on these early engines is exquisite, noticeably different from the later versions this one has metal roller bearings throughout, and some of the cages look to be bronze, very nice piston has 3 large rings no rubber seals anywhere and no gaskets inside- all the machining seems to be really tighten tolerance (no feather vane gaskets and no little rubber induction case seals. The only thing that resembled a seal is some thin black coating stuff that looked like a thin layer of gasket maker where the feather vane gasket would normally go connecting rod uses a pretty cool two-piece roller bearing that is made of aluminum the points are a little different too and have a slotted piece that catches the copper tab It’s starting to clean up nicely. I can tell by the piston, cylinder and the internals that this thing hasn’t been run much, zero carbonization or anything, just a light coating of dried oil/gas varnish. I’m pretty certain I’m the first one to open this one up, didn’t see any signs of others getting into it.

The UK firm of Tarpen were distributors of the Turbair sprayer with O&R power during the 1960's.
 
The firm also produced a Mini engine setup with O&R power that could be used on some of their tools.
 
I have two in my collection at the moment, one on a Tarpen 33 hedge trimmer, the other on a cultivator...
 
 

Clint's perfect size decal arrived to pretty much finish this one off. Clear coated the original recoil decal last weekend. Just needs some yellow touch up paint here and there.
The only thing I might do is change the bar size as the one on the "clothes iron" style Comet saw looks a bit out of proportion with a longer bar. That one was restored and painted a while back so it'll be an easy swap. The longer bar shouldn't really change the look of this one.
 

 
 

 

Made a little progress on this just now. Juggling between some paint work and fabricating a display stand for the cut-away engine.
 
Good news, I was able to free the piston. It’s still a little snug but I think it’s free enough that when I go to remove the cylinder head it shouldn’t snap the con rod (hopefully). Although the gear box was pretty much empty and stuck I was able to get it free. The clutch has the little cork pads and they hand seized up in the clutch housing.  I was surprised to see the plastic gear.  The recoil was also jammed up but I got that moving too. SO overall the vitals seem good. I’m actually starting to think this one may not have much mileage on it. 
 
! Before I go and do something stupid I wanted to check in with the experts to see if the flywheel nut on the older models are normal thread or if by chance they might be reverse thread!
 
These older models definitely look different inside, pretty cool (for me) since this is the first one like this I’ve had and opened up.
 

Man, you made quick work of that one, especially given all the speed bumps you hit along the way. That looks really nice, such a cool generator!

Got it all soldered up, cracks reinforced with epoxy and cleaned up best I can. All the electrical stuff works (in theory) using a meter and a couple of smaller batteries taped together for a power source. Haven't run it to test the generator power.
Had to drill a hole in the top of the tank to get the fuel line all straightened out. It's undetectable with engine on and sealed using Seal All. 
 

 

 

The information for the older style starters (Compact I, II, III & Series 13A engines) can in the service bulletin in the manuals sticky thread, you need to check the starter spring fitted as well.

 
For the later 13B & 20A use this length.

 
David

Think I got this figured out the best way to make this one work rite it to put the points back in.
Just got some time after some spring cleaning to work for a few hours.
when your wife is home all day there no rest for the working man hope she doesn't read this.
got the cylinder back on ant the ( points working) now to the recoil I'm not sure but I think I have seen
some of the recoil handles are they correct ? or should it be a wooden ball ?

Well, there goes my plan for a fresh hot metallic pink with some unicorn air brushing...  Yep - no plans to paint this beauty. I just want to clean it up and hopefully free the engine. I prefer keeping these things as original as possible and only restoring ones where the paint is too far gone. Depending on how the guts look I probably won’t even try starting it - it’ll be a shelf piece for sure.

indeed it is a Tarpen mini engine and you are correct David it has a long hedge trimmer attached
 
I had to go all the way to Birmingham to pick that one up, worth the journey though
 

This stuff is awesome!  I had forgotten about your toothpick art, man that’s amazing!

Does anyone have any parts for one of these saws, I need a pulstart assembly complete with cover. Thanks. Or I will buy another complete saw if anybody knows of any for sale

These date from sometime between August 1960 to 1961, gearbox models were not available in August 1960, but were due to go into production soon.

 
Here are some pictures from the first brochure, which show the features of these early engines.

 

 
David

Nice unit must be very early all the screws are flat head  and the come in from the back of the recoil.
the muffler bolt is long enough to put on one more section . there's no model or serial ? 
David said my c/saw was 1961 and it had all flat head screws.
Looks very clean no painting

Ok, got this really cool engine and I know it’s an early one. Might need David’s insights for this one. There aren’t any markings on it as far as I can tell, no model or serial numbers.  This is as-received and I haven’t touched it yet but looking forward to giving it a bath.  Unfortunately the engine and the gear box are both sieved up. I pulled the plug and the top of the piston looks surprisingly clean.  Missing the air cleaner. Has a push-pull throttle cable and a little pulley (probably an add-on).  I have no idea of the application, maybe a compressor or something.  This is definitely the oldest O&R in my collection now.

Ok, got this really cool engine and I know it’s an early one. Might need David’s insights for this one. There aren’t any markings on it as far as I can tell, no model or serial numbers.  This is as-received and I haven’t touched it yet but looking forward to giving it a bath.  Unfortunately the engine and the gear box are both sieved up. I pulled the plug and the top of the piston looks surprisingly clean.  Missing the air cleaner. Has a push-pull throttle cable and a little pulley (probably an add-on).  I have no idea of the application, maybe a compressor or something.  This is definitely the oldest O&R in my collection now.