ranger

Very tidy. Be interesting to see how the soil look after you have rotovated it. 

Hi Doug nice engineering there 👍🏻

Finally got around to getting the "Roper 38" tiller working, modified the hitch pickup mountings to match the 3 point on my C121. My 3 point was originally going to be hydraulic, but getting the geometry right without the whole lot hanging too far back was awkward, due to the under seat fuel tank. So I used a winch instead. This is rated at 2000 lbs with a " snatch block " pulley mounted on the lift arm cross brace, the tiller weighs around 250lbs. I've taken a few photos, but only after everything was fitted.

Glad your improving. Stay safe.

Finally got around to getting the "Roper 38" tiller working, modified the hitch pickup mountings to match the 3 point on my C121. My 3 point was originally going to be hydraulic, but getting the geometry right without the whole lot hanging too far back was awkward, due to the under seat fuel tank. So I used a winch instead. This is rated at 2000 lbs with a " snatch block " pulley mounted on the lift arm cross brace, the tiller weighs around 250lbs. I've taken a few photos, but only after everything was fitted.

Cleared everything in Safari on my iPad, user name now displayed instead of email address, no problem logging on now. Strange it only affected R.S and not M.O.M?

Happy Birthday Doug, have a great day mate.

Happy birthday Doug

All the Best, Doug. Have a good day.

What You have is one third of the Wheelhorse implement package, Plough, Discs and Cultivator assemblies which all use the same mounting beam. I have the other two thirds, I'm missing the plough. Have a look in the Wheelhorse magazine 1981 on Red Square, it shows the setup.
The clevis part on the front can be fitted in either of two positions,  one way up it's square to the beam for the discs or cultivator, or turned over it is at the correct angle for ploughing use.
The furrow wheel looks to be an addition, it's not shown in the original pictures.

What You have is one third of the Wheelhorse implement package, Plough, Discs and Cultivator assemblies which all use the same mounting beam. I have the other two thirds, I'm missing the plough. Have a look in the Wheelhorse magazine 1981 on Red Square, it shows the setup.
The clevis part on the front can be fitted in either of two positions,  one way up it's square to the beam for the discs or cultivator, or turned over it is at the correct angle for ploughing use.
The furrow wheel looks to be an addition, it's not shown in the original pictures.

What You have is one third of the Wheelhorse implement package, Plough, Discs and Cultivator assemblies which all use the same mounting beam. I have the other two thirds, I'm missing the plough. Have a look in the Wheelhorse magazine 1981 on Red Square, it shows the setup.
The clevis part on the front can be fitted in either of two positions,  one way up it's square to the beam for the discs or cultivator, or turned over it is at the correct angle for ploughing use.
The furrow wheel looks to be an addition, it's not shown in the original pictures.

Good choice Ian, quite powerful, and a very smooth arc.

Happy birthday doug!

Happy Birthday Doug, hope you are having a great day.

Great workmanship and thought going into this project Ian, grand job. 
I hate to say this but,  in the photo of your driveshaft, it looks like the shaft yokes are out of phase.
All shafts I've had dealings with, (apart from steering shafts installed at high angles, which don't spin at high speed), always have the shaft inner yokes in line to aid in cancelling out vibrations, not a problem if the whole assembly runs in a dead straight line, but when angles are involved?
Not a criticism , just an observation . You don't want that coming adrift at any speed close to your leg The ideal perhaps, would be a pair of CV joints, if there's room.
 
 

Many happy returns to the birthday boy 

happy birthday Doug

Happy birthday Doug 🎉🎉

Happy Birthday Doug, have a good one! 

Happy Birthday Doug !

All the Best, Doug. Have a good day and I hope your back is improving.

Many happy returns of the day Doug, hope you have a great day. 

Still no luck getting the rear diff out, but I did take the input shaft out to try and see what's going on inside..
No diff inside but both cogs look in great shape.
 

 

 

 
 
Getting drive from the Honda bike gearbox was always going to be fun as there isn't much space!
 

 
 
The only thing I could do was move the transfer box as far back as possible.
So out came the Quadzilla battery tray, followed by a slice taken out of a rear strut tower.
 

 

 
 
The transfer box/rear diff coupler limits how far box the TB (transfer box) can be moved back.
 

 
 
But notch cut out of the strut tower allowed me to move the TB back a good 1/2 inch.. Not much but it all helps.
 

 
 
At this point I still didn't have a working Mig welder and couldn't really do any more on the project, so I tidied the bench and had a think.
 

 
 
A change of plan getting the drive to the front er... I keep going to call them "diff's" but they dont have a diff in them!
Anyway, you know what I mean.
Rather than go the chain and sprockets way I meantioned in my last update, I will be using the Quadzilla drive shafts, all I need is one more UJ tyo get the shafts around the engine.
Of course the front part of the exhaust won't fit because of a drive shaft in the way, but hey, it's only metal
 

 
 
While on the subject of shafts, this is part of the drive shaft that fit's on the bike gearbox, the problem is the splines inside don't go all the way to the UJ, so I can't just cut it to length!
The only way to do it is to slice a bit out the middle and weld the splined section back on much closer to the UJ.
I need to shorten this so it will fit onto the gearbox splines and leave enough room for the UJ on the shaft that runs from the TB to the front axle.
To make it easier to line the two bits back up for welding I needed to machine the slined end to an even size outside.
 

 
 
As the UJ isn't designed to be taken apart (thanks for that Honda!) I had to be inventive and find a way to hold it all steady in the lathe.
It's been a long time since I've used a steady rest, but it did the job well and the machining went smoothly.
 

 
 
 

A big thank you to Rex at this point for turning up at the workshop one day sporting a couple of massive MAN truck steering columns. Thanks mate
 

 
 
I can't use two of the UJ's as they have a plastic center bit.
"I have since found out that the plastic bit is only a cover so I can use them"
 

 
 
But I can use the shafts and other UJ's (one of which is a double) to get the power from the GB (gearbox) to the TB input shaft... But more on that when I get to sort it.
 

 
 
With my Murex TradeMig finally fixed I decided to celebrate and make some mounts for the TB.
Two of the mounts were cut off the remains of the Quadzilla frame which gave me a good start.
Space is so tight getting the TB in and out of the frame I have to make all the mounts removable from the frame so they don't get in the way!
I welded on a couple of captive nut before welding this bit to the frame.
Once the TB has been taken out again I can fully weld it up.
 

 
 
MMmmm, some nice strong welds
 

 
 
This bracket bolts the TB to the frame, but I didn't like the look of it.
 

 
 
So the corners were sliced off.
 

 
 
And some new metal was added to put the strenth back in the bracket.
Will you look at those pretty colours, yep I'd say my Mig is now working better than ever and producing the heat it needs to do a very strong weld
 

 
 
That looks better..
 

 
 
The TB mount the other side. Nice and strong (well it will be when I can fully weld it up when the TB comes out), but I'm not sure I like the shape of it so a few mods will need to be done.
 

 

 
 
That will do for now, it's given you all plenty to read
 
More to come later..
 
The trouble is I can't split the box with it in the frame, and I can't get it out!