Hello Ray, It's likely the Clutch is slipping and needs cleaning.
Usually due to oil getting on the Shoe faces. The rotation Arrow on the Thin Nut depicts both the rotation of the Engine/Shaft and the direction to undo the nut (left hand thread).
To undo it, it is best to remove the Pullstart mechanism on the other side to expose the Flywheel to find a point where you can 'Lock' the rotation with a short piece of wood between Flywheel and Saw Body (don't use the Fins).
Edit- you may be able to use the Flywheel nut to oppose the Undo action of the Clutch.
Reverse process for reassembly where when done, the engine will run against the nut and tighten it also.
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With most saws the eaiest way of locking the engine (bar having the correct dummy spark plug with a nylon buffer) is to remove the plug and poke two or the inches of heavy duty starter cord down into the cylinder and then rotate the engine in the appropriate direction to compress the cord and lock the crank. No danger of slipping and consequent damage, or have I missed something unique to this situation?
That recoil is similar to the ones used on some iron block Tecumsehs and I believe was bought in from Fairbanks Morse. A few years ago I needed a recoil spring for a 10 hip Tecumseh and bought it from the States; only to find that it was off the shelf in the UK as a Kohler part.
I originally though bought genuine spares from a company called Rupert Ledger although I am not sure if it still exists.
Interesting that you dealt with Rupert Ledger. They went into voluntary liquidation in 1976 . They were better known as manufacturers of ignition testing equipment and I have one of their portable test units. I also have a very useful gadget, the Dy-tone, that they made for ascertaining the condition and the opening / closing point of contact breaker points in flywheel magnetos without the need to dismantle - one wire to the HT lead and one to earth giving an audible signal that changes when the points open or close. A sharp change of note equals clean points and a slurred one, dirty points. Invaluable for setting the timing on early Villiers etc as being audible , hands and eyes are free to align timing marks etc.
The company morphed into Ledger Selby and Co. Ltd and also traded as Uni-Pak Maintenance Systems. No mention of drills in any of the literature that I have.
Nice bit of kit. I think that Avos were the gold standard of their day and there are still some applications where I prefer analogue to digital, but then I'm........... !
The original coil armature on your engine would be a 298316 , to which you can fit a 394970 Magnetron module to eliminate the points and condenser but it may be less hassle to find a newer 397358 coil, that already incorporates a Magnetron trigger module, from a scrap engine. When shopping for a new / used coil take yours and make sure that the spacing of the fixing holes exactly matches as there are some minor but important differences in the spacing on otherwise similar-looking coils. Any coil from a 13 series engine should fit.
Forgive me for gatecrashing this thread but here are a couple of images of the bench drill that my father bought for me in the early 1950s. It has MRL and the numeral 5 cast into the flywheel and MRL into the underside of the base but I can find no information about the manufacturer.
That looks to me as if it's for trenching, from the shape of the blade? Can't think what else it could be for with those tracks.
Be useful with a grader blade or gravel rake. Can a dozer blade/snow plough be somehow fitted to the front?
Taking the trenching suggestion a step further , could it have been for tree planting on rough hilly terrain ? The Forestry Commision used much larger versions when establishing acres of coniferous woodland.
From what you are now saying it sounds as though you are looking at the plastic casing around the original external dog clutch assembly and if the “ no drive “ was sudden it is likely that the failure is either of the roll pin holding the drive half of the dog clutch to the APTO shaft , or the roll pin locking the bronze gear within the sump to the Auxilliary PTO shaft has sheared.
A quick test is to remove any covers so that you can observe the shaft where it exits the engine, engage the dog clutc and try to push the mower forward . If the internal pin has failed the pto shaft will rotate freely allowing the machine to move. If not it will lock.
Replacing the internal pin may be done through the small removable plate in the engine sump but only if you can account for all the broken bits of pin, otherwise it’s a sump off job.
As an aside to your issue , neither of the halves of the dog clutch are still available unless you can locate any New Old Stock. I’ve seen various attempts to “ dress” rounded off dogs to achieve more positive engagement - not many successful, so it’s important to preserve what you have by correct adjustment. A factor that defeats this is wear within the sump allowing excessive APTO shaft end float making correct adjustment impossible. Briggs answer to this was a new sump and bronze gear but we developed a solution using a 50p thrust washer from the Qualcast parts bin.
A proper investigation and , perhaps, an image or two will save a lot of guess work.
Their rarity depended upon how close to a USAF base you were! We came across a few that had migrated from East Anglia having been originally sold through their PX stores on the larger bases.
Plus one private import by a Virgin Atlantic 747 captain!
Does the cable go to a little lever on a shaft out of the left of the BS engine block? If so, it has an internal Power Trac wrap spring clutch - best described as a good idea at the time. Lots was written about them at the time but the outcome was the same!
A lot of machines were converted to the previous dog clutch system and quite a few were just dumped. If you are very lucky the problem could just be cable adjustment - make sure that the lever is being fully moved from stop to stop, but if it's not, the non availability of parts may scupper the job. I believe that the wrap springs are still available - I might even have one. There was a repair kit 394871 but fairly sure it is NLA.
An interesting looking machine. The transmission is unusual, does it combine a clutch and gearbox? Also, does it have a differential or is it a fixed drive to both rear wheels?
I didn't realise that what I thought was a forum post had gone as a private message but here is the interesting reply
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Very sharp eyes there Wristpin.
That gearbox is a Snow Nabstedt 5108L http://snpt.biz/model-5108c/ . It operates without any clutch and can be engaged in forward or reverse at full throttle. And can be thrown from F to R under full throttle. The company is still in business today. This gearbox was used on only two Tiger tractors, the 883 (which I have) and the 552. The 552 was exactly the same at the 883 except it had a 5hp engine and 12" rear wheels where the 883 had a 9hp engine and 16" rear wheels. Tiger called these "automatics". They use 30 weight motor oil for transmission fluid. All other Tigers had regular gear boxes with clutches.
The tractor is very 'beastly'. It's well made and heavy. But it does have some draw backs, like NO BRAKES! None at all. A parking brake was an option but it was for holding on a hill, not for stopping. The rear drive is the weakest part of the tractor. It's a strange ratcher lock drive and when in good condition it works great. The only issue is that when both rear hubs lock up you cannot steer the tractor. Bth rear wheels drive in forward but only the right wheel drives in reverse. The tractor has a ton of umph, cam pull like a locomotive. It's slow and deliberate. But when the rear drive components wearout it's a royal pain. Parts have to be machined to be replaced. "
The freewheels are screwed to the welded boss on the shaft.
From here on I'm relying on memory! Please accept that it's been six years since I retired and probably a few more than that since I was "hands-on".
The freewheels are identical part numbers, not handed so they are fitted in opposite orientation so that the anti-clockwise rotation of the main shaft (viewed from the drive end tightens the assembly to the threaded boss that is part of the shaft and in turn engages the ratchets in that assembly to drive the LH roller. From that, it follows that the centre boss of the ratchet unscrews clockwise from the boss. If they are not too rusty and you look carefully at the ratchet units you will see that they have a little arrow inscribed on them indicating the direction of drive. If I remember correctly they themselves unscrew to come apart to reveal the ratchet pawls and springs. They have two recesses on one face to accept a pin wrench or to be carefully tapped round with a punch.
Viewed from the non-drive end of the centre shaft the RH ratchet will unscrew anti-clockwise - I think.
In the day, Hayter used to supply a complete shaft and ratchet assembly which was the cost-effective way of dealing with seized ratchets etc in a busy workshop.I can find the bulletin for the Harrier 48 but not the 56 but the idea is the same.
Its been a while but I remember it just being a woodruff key - no roll or spirol pin. Had them so tight that the sprocket bends and enough heat melts the (relatively cheap) plastic bearing carrier behind it. Last resort is to cut the sprocket off.
Thought that I had a service bulletin but cant lay hands on it at present.
This isn't the one that I wanted but may help. 55 is the woodruff key
That will weld OK but don't attempt it with the tyre still on the rim - even deflated, nasty things can happen. Also, it may be wise to add some reinforcement inside the rim and inspect the insides of the other welds for cracking.
Looking very smart. Interested in the "bumper bar" around the carb. I don't recollect seeing one on any of the very few machines that came our way. I wonder if the carbs were prone to damage if the machine was tipped back to change the rotors etc.
Good advice about fitting a later Magnetron coil but the 130902 engine model number suggests a 5 hp engine which, I believe, may have a slightly different spacing between the mounting pillars from the suggested 3.5 HP donor for the coil. Worth checking before buying.
The Magnetron equivalent to the original 298316 coil is 397358
For an older car, a local auction is a good bet. At the other end of the scale, a friend of mine was very pleased with the deal from "We buy..... " when selling a luxury 4 x 4, a bit better than he had been offered by the dealer and gave him more negotiating room for the new one. Either way, it takes away the hassle.
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Tecumsh MV100s as in Flymo
in Wanted
Posted
I'm looking for a standard size piston that's not been seized.
Original part number 16095004