Wristpin

Suggestions please for a suitable adhesive to stick the solid tyre to the Antelope's cast wheel as the tyre has become slack and wanders off on its own! because the tyre is slightly slack I suspect that something with some gap filling properties is a better bet that a straight contact adhesive such as Evostick. Once back in place I can put a few pop rivets around the inner edge as there is sufficient clearance around the rim of the wheel.

http://www.mayphil.com/creo_files/upload/files/cords_brochure.pdf They were not set up for dealing with "private buyers" but with a little persuasion the deal was done . Knew that there was a good reason to bookmark the catalogue! Page 55!

My manual is considerably older than the one that you refer to, probably late 70s. No reference to +3 in my manual and in the attached link someone is questioning why " they stopped offering the +3"; so somewhere along the line that option came and went. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/46585-new-kohler-piston-rings-question/#comment-429666 Anyone here (old enough to ) remember Cords piston rings for worn engines? They are still available for some engines. I bought a set for a Kubota petrol lump on a Ransomes a year or so back and they provided an instant cure to smoking and oil burning without the need for a rebore. Machine sold - end of !!!!

May be worth having a word with Hugo at Rowena Motors, he is the carburettor King! The main source for Tanaka stuff in the UK is Farm and Garden Claymore but they hold most of the stock at head office in Dublin

+3 rings. - I stand corrected but have never seen them mentioned elsewhere until today! However there is a thread on the Red Square forum with a suggestion that they were a factory fit on production engines that were right at the limit of the measurement for a standard bore. All seems a little strange.

If you have a means of measuring the bore it will determine the best course of action. Without measurements it is a bit hit and miss. I think that Anglo T may have the decimal point misplaced as I read his post as being +3 thou. Iron rings usually come in +10,20 and 30. If the wear is within limits and a "service ring set" is available I would go for that as they usually include multi piece rings with expanders etc to accommodate wear. This extract from the Kohler manual may be of assistance. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fmi9539dp0f0xq/Kohler Piston rings etc0001.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2djv5e4hi2ppx6k/Kohler Specifications and wear tolerances0001.pdf?dl=0

Villiers Mk25?

Meetens or Mike Hitchins at http://www.guypartsandservice.co.uk/

Interesting. My made up word of "electrostacticy" was intended to refer to the gun for applying the powder and the method of applying the negative charge to the object being coated. However I find your comments about the elasticity of powder coat surprising as experience with commercial applications such as on older Westwood and Countax tractors has been the opposite, with the coating peeling off in sheets! Maybe the difference in in the care of application compared with a commercial finish? Your oven is most impressive, what sort of temperature is required to achieve your high standard of finish.

Do tell us more - also the "electrostaticy" bit and obtaining small quantities of powder paint. My local powder painter applies a primer and then the finishing coat before the primer is completely cured so that they key together during the final curing bake. Is that the way to go?

A Westwood deck of that age has nothing in common with Countax decks but bearings etc are not a problem. As has been mentioned a worn belt with thick and thin sections will set up a vibration as the difference in section effectively tensions and de-tensions it as it passes over the pulleys . Also have a look at the pulleys themselves, particularly the crankshaft pulley, as the pressed steel and spot welded ones can spread , again causing a "fast and loose" effect on belt tension and setting up a vibration. Obviously the machined cast ones are not susceptible to spreading. Beware of over tensioning the belt - as unlikely as it sounds, an overtensioned belt can result in a snapped crank. Edit. I think that this is your deck but there are a couple with minor variations. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ns33em6yp9c9r8/Westwood standard 36in RD deck0001.pdf?dl=0

They worked well and were simple to maintain. The build quality was a bit questionable in places with the parts book containing several " use as required" references when it came to shims and spacers but yours is probably built to a better standard than when it left the factory - especially the paint work! Deck rot could be a problem.

Another factor to consider is insurance. Insurance companies are getting increasingly restrictive regarding " hot works", particularly where Oxy Acetelyne is concerned and are not too happy with it in domestic situations. Induction heaters get around most of those issues.

All the good guys are falling by the wayside! Presume that you've removed the cutter belt to make life easier while sorting the engine? Have you tried both flywheel keyway positions or did it turn out to be obvious which one is correct? I'll add a Dropbox link to the L197 manual later , but it's not that informative.

For the record, the original Hayter 21 metal wheels with the three piece bearing, cone, ball race (note ball, not roller) and cup were 7" and those fitted to the Hayterette were 8". The later plastic wheels used on Hayterettes had the one piece press in "capsule" bearings but I believe the 21 and Osprey were phased out before the adoption of plastic wheels.. For anyone without access to a donor machine, Central Spares sell a reasonable quality 8" steel wheel with capsule bearings to fit a 1/2shaft, their part number 11215. However you will need to find someone with a CS account.

How long before they are linked to the steering?

Perhaps your comment about possible Mountfield connections is worth further exploration - will a Mountfield bag fit, or is the chassis too far gone to make it worthwhile?

No issue with learning but not sure how I've got through forty years in the mower business and never come across one. Post an image please. EDIT Well, well https://encrypted.google.com/search?q=Sterkins+mower&tbm=isch&imgil=eO0pmj13r-TC5M%3A%3B_TmvEYGy7rg8IM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fes.wallapop.com%252Fitem%252Fcortacesped-sterkins-honda-41663272&source=iu&pf=m&fir=eO0pmj13r-TC5M%3A%2C_TmvEYGy7rg8IM%2C_&usg=__dhPueyTOUe2AkyzWJRsaiLGYAd0%3D&biw=1152&bih=581&dpr=1.25&ved=0ahUKEwj75P-MpebUAhXFLcAKHQVODWwQyjcISg&ei=oqRWWfuLHMXbgAaFnLXgBg#imgrc=eO0pmj13r-TC5M: ........ and there seems to be a Sterwin as well!!

"Sterkins 19" rotary" - wtf ?

This may help with filter identification https://www.dropbox.com/s/tbnlvw6qyw6qy94/Briggs sponge air filter elements0001.pdf?dl=0

You've got to get the muffler hot enough to burn it out; possibly quarter of an hour of full throttle running.

Take care with " brick cleaner" as it will attack any soldered joints used in assembling some fuel tanks.

Pleased to have been of service! Your final problem and it's solution is interesting as, although I've not experienced it on s BS engine , I've seen it a few times on Tecumsehs; usually after they have been pressure washed during service. It would seem that electronic units can push enough down the kill wire to leak to ground if the conditions are right . In fact I've even experienced a " tingle " from a Tecumseh kill wire. I hope that the rest of the job goes according to plan, but if not, there's plenty of Osprey related info available.

Just re-read the original post - " oil is Classic 30" To the best of my knowledge, that is a non detergent oil for older slow revving classic cars . Briggs and Stratton have always recommended the use of a detergent oil for its superior qualities particularly relating to cleaning and cooling.

Over fuelling in a petrol engine will give Black smoke. White smoke equals oil burning. How was the engine positioned during storage - could the muffler or air filter be full of oil?