Wristpin

I'm possibly being very dim over this but I just cant envisage "the screw on type"

So if that's the screw on type, what is the issue?

When you say "plug type" , are they just like two rigid pins sticking out of the back? An image will assist .

The Gemini was introduced in the 70s with the Suffolk cast iron engine and a “ sealed for life” welded chain case. The later Flymo DM bore more than a passing resemblance . Not sure what or if there was a connection but both had a similar optional tipping barrow body which picked up on the chain case lug used by the rotor guard and the rotors were replaced by lug tyred wheels..

The box appears to contain "hog rings" which are used for attaching wire (pig?) netting to fence straining wires. Also used in some upholstery applications such as attaching seat covers to car seat frames. The tool does look rather over elaborate for the job, compared with its modern equivalent. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/252932478831?chn=ps&adgroupid=43978108057&rlsatarget=pla-379117357340&abcId=1128956&adtype=pla&merchantid=7089384&poi=&googleloc=1006497&device=c&campaignid=856935089&crdt=0

Useful bit of kit - reinvented in the 80s as the Multitool! http://www.multi-tool-store.co.uk/multi-tools-c27?gclid=CjwKCAiAx57RBRBkEiwA8yZdUAImchGnachKd5xUXK-Pg5i81ybFaCJH1KxRWrl5PsxxD_k3lIevABoCAS0QAvD_BwE

If the inlet was open when it shouldn't be it is more likely that it was partially seized in the guide . I've seen valves that hung open but while one watched, slowly close! Bit worried about the " bit off the stem" , how much and what was the resulting clearance? One of my favourite small engine books has the following to say about valves - IN BOLD PRINT! "Technicians who are valve critical will always have a better record of repair success than those who take a near enough approach" Time spent fiddling with ignition and carburettion , is time wasted if the valves are not right.

If it’s something binding, it’s unlikely to cause a kickback , but if is, disregard the following . For reasons unknown we used to see more Tecumsehs with kick back caused by incorrectly gapped valves than any other brand. Excessive valve clearance leading to an inoperative decompressor was nearly always the reason. The gaps should be checked / set with the piston a quarter of an inch down the bore on the power stroke, or, if you prefer after TDC - same difference! Grind lots off the stems to achieve clearance when “ on the cam” and you’re in trouble.

I'm a great fan of Owatrol but I think that Waxoyl or similar products such as Morris's Ankor wax are better for your purpose as they have a creeping / searching action. Another one that comes to mind is Dinitrol but I haven't seen it around lately. Owatrol dries with a sort of soft plasticy finish and wont chip easily and is great for horticultural machinery either mixed with paint or applied over a painted finish. I use it for lawnmower cutting cylinders and deflector plates etc. The downside of Owatrol is that it seems to delay final drying for up to 72 hours, so not for someone in a hurry!

If we get a "salty winter" keep it well washed off but not by driving through a puddle that concealed this pothole in east Croydon . Friend of mine drove into it yesterday, wrecked a wheel and tyre and possibly more. While she was calling the recovery service another driver did the same. Turns out that Thames Water had "fixed" a leak the day before, filled in the hole, taken down the barriers and B******d off . The leak reappeared over night and washed out the fill and yesterday's rain and wet roads disguised it.

A sort of male Anne Summers?

Send some down here, we’ve got a half empty (or worse) reservoir on the Kent / Sussex border. Quite serious.

Use them to make a mold to create fibre glass replicas - or is the mention of fibre glass a hanging offence?

That's what's best described as a bit of a B****r! PM sent. Meanwhile here's a pic of the back of a brand new coil. As you will see the potting material is decidedly lumpy. it's just some form of resin / epoxy poured in over the coil and condenser and allowed to find its own level.

It looks ok as far as the relationship of the components goes . Please confirm that you have tried for a spark straight off the end of the HT lead without the plug cap and that you’ve cleaned any protective coating off the contact faces of your new points, set the points to the correct gap ( 18 thou.? ) **, recleaned them after setting and that they are opening just before the piston reaches top dead centre. Unless an external voltage has been applied to the coil it is unlikely to have overheated but if you have a multimeter you can check for continuity and resistance of the low and high tension windings of the coil but unfortuately I don’t have any figures for what those readings should be. **the correct gap figure is usually cast into the outer face of the flywheel or even stamped into the removable cover that gives access to the points. This may be of assistance. https://www.dropbox.com/s/gbq4bdj2cto80gv/Suffolk A98 Magneto and carburettor0001.pdf?dl=0

The lead that you describe as going to the throttle is the “ kill / stop” wire and could be the cause of your loss of spark. Make sure that it is not earthing out . You don’t mention a condenser so you probably have a coil incorporating one. I am fairly certain that your engine is an early A98. - aluminium crankcase, 98cc - as the later ones and the 112cc and 114 cc aluminium engines that followed had electronic ignition - no points.

That’s a bit of a mess in the carb and governor department! Have you checked for a spark straight off the end of the plug lead with the cap removed? Also , with no sign of a recoil unit , how are you spinning the engine? May be just not fast enough, or is the clue in that drill lying on the ground? May still not be fast enough. Can’t see from the images but is there a wire from the magneto to an insulated terminal on the carb. If there is, that is the kill wire and it may be shorting out. When you were in the mag replacing the points did you notice a condenser ? If there’s no separate condenser it may have the later pattern coil incorporateing a condenser and the whole unit may have failed but before going that route check that the plug lead is firmly screwed into the coil . An image of the mag with the flywheel removed will be useful.

Re the head gasket. Been there and had the identification issue in the past. This may be of use https://www.dropbox.com/s/mgrbup9j4y4ii6f/P1010221 (Medium).JPG?dl=0 EDIT:: Doesn't look as though it will as yours is not on there - chart too modern , I think. I've had a quick look through my box of left over gaskets and part used sets - no joy there, but will have a more in depth look later. Are the fins on the cylinder head straight or curved ? Just had another rummage and this looks a possibility. Got several! https://www.dropbox.com/s/ipwc0d40we4iuse/Tecumseh head gasket possibly0001.pdf?dl=0

Electric start. Sometimes the e start machines would have a recoil unit as well but on later higher horsepower machines the recoil was absent to allow for ducted cooling.

They were quite common in the 50s, the hay days of grant aided land reclaimation and drainage, fitted to Howard trenchers and tile drain layers

The following is quoted from a manual on overhauling and testing magnetos. " Before working on a magneto connect a spark plug to the HT lead with the body of the plug connected to the magneto body. If this is not done and the magneto turned beyond its "spark point" the high voltage generated will find the easiest path to earth. At best this could cause tracking across the bakalite cover, creating a permanent problem, at worst it could destroy a perfectly good - and expensive to replace - coil." It goes on to warn of the risk of destroying a digital multi-meter if the rotor is turned with the meter connected. You have been warned

You are correct that GH was a Scientologist but I've never heard that it extended to the tin bashing side of things!

Certainly similar to that Atco but without researching some catalogues and Parts lists I can’t remember the distinguishing features that separate the re- badged Dynamarks from the later UK made ones.

The early Westwood’s were in fact rebadged US Dynamarks ( as were the first Atco tractors) . One of the distinguishing features was the rounded, pressed deck, whereas the first Westwood made decks were the angular, fabricated “threepenny “ bit ones. But , before that is used to date Westwood production , I’m reliably informed that early home built Westwood tractors used the rounded Dynamark decks.

My workshop manual only shows side by side ports but does show both methods of valve retention, referring to the pin system as “early”. Not sure whether this helps or hinders! Edit 8/11/17 Just realised that in the Dropbox scans that I posted earlier , the Lauson H30 has the "90 degree ports" and the Aspera one the parallel ports. https://www.dropbox.com/s/k783cnjt6i95mx2/Lauson H30%2C Aspera H300001.pdf?dl=0