Wristpin

When it’s going at full chat you will need ear defenders for both yourself and any near neighbours.

Looking good. On the Flymo parts illustration there's a lever to trip the bin latch to allow it to tip. Is there any sign of one having being fitted to yours or was it a latter addition?

Well, maybe I’m being over cautious, but having been involved in the aftermath of a Cub Cadet going into a pond and the mature driver drowning, you can, perhaps, understand my caution.

I would question whether an eight year old should be driving at garden tractor at all but if you've made that decision he should be supervised at all times and all the machine's safety systems, such as the seat pressure switch should be fully functional . If it has not got a seat pressure switch or it has been by passed, that should be rectified. Consider a "kill tag" that cuts out the engine should he fall off or hit his head on a tree bough etc. While anything is possible I think that the installation of a centrifugal clutch and additional brake will not be a simple matter. A tractor with hydrostatic transmission would achieve smooth single pedal or lever control of forward neutral and reverse and give dynamic braking. A used transmission such as a TuffTorq K55 or 46 would fulfil both the above functions and is perfectly "doable" using readily available new and used parts. Alternatively re-sell the machine and buy a hydrostatic one.

Slightly off piste but Mowmaster's handle and avatar reminds me of when the green Mowmaster 332 was introduced at the price of £999, and we sold dozens of those and the later red 333 . Looking back on my records I see one 332 that we sold in 1996 was still returning for an annual service when I retired in 2012.

Difficult to gauge just how wide that lip is but would it be possible to drill some fine holes to accept panel pins, or what ever they are called your side of the pond , and use them as a key for the JB weld?

I'm neither a welder nor a metallurgist but I'm under the impression that magnesium (or may be not a particular alloy of) is flammable so how much heat can be applied? Also can aluminium and magnesium alloy be mixed? To explain my thoughts on magnesium being flammable, many years ago the UK made Ferguson tractors had a magnesium alloy gearbox housing and if one of those tractors was unfortunate to be in a barn fire the result would be a front and a back and a pile of gear wheels - the gearbox casing being entirely vapourised.

A good find there but I would think that the little Suffolk engine would be working quite hard with that ridger (spelling??) body in Wealden clay, but perhaps it's destined for a more relaxed life?

As per my post in Lawnbug thread the Gemini later appeared as the Flymo DM complete with optional traction wheels and tipping hopper, but with a Briggs engine..

I'm possibly being very dim over this but I just cant envisage "the screw on type"

So if that's the screw on type, what is the issue?

When you say "plug type" , are they just like two rigid pins sticking out of the back? An image will assist .

The Gemini was introduced in the 70s with the Suffolk cast iron engine and a “ sealed for life” welded chain case. The later Flymo DM bore more than a passing resemblance . Not sure what or if there was a connection but both had a similar optional tipping barrow body which picked up on the chain case lug used by the rotor guard and the rotors were replaced by lug tyred wheels..

The box appears to contain "hog rings" which are used for attaching wire (pig?) netting to fence straining wires. Also used in some upholstery applications such as attaching seat covers to car seat frames. The tool does look rather over elaborate for the job, compared with its modern equivalent. https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/252932478831?chn=ps&adgroupid=43978108057&rlsatarget=pla-379117357340&abcId=1128956&adtype=pla&merchantid=7089384&poi=&googleloc=1006497&device=c&campaignid=856935089&crdt=0

Useful bit of kit - reinvented in the 80s as the Multitool! http://www.multi-tool-store.co.uk/multi-tools-c27?gclid=CjwKCAiAx57RBRBkEiwA8yZdUAImchGnachKd5xUXK-Pg5i81ybFaCJH1KxRWrl5PsxxD_k3lIevABoCAS0QAvD_BwE

If the inlet was open when it shouldn't be it is more likely that it was partially seized in the guide . I've seen valves that hung open but while one watched, slowly close! Bit worried about the " bit off the stem" , how much and what was the resulting clearance? One of my favourite small engine books has the following to say about valves - IN BOLD PRINT! "Technicians who are valve critical will always have a better record of repair success than those who take a near enough approach" Time spent fiddling with ignition and carburettion , is time wasted if the valves are not right.

If it’s something binding, it’s unlikely to cause a kickback , but if is, disregard the following . For reasons unknown we used to see more Tecumsehs with kick back caused by incorrectly gapped valves than any other brand. Excessive valve clearance leading to an inoperative decompressor was nearly always the reason. The gaps should be checked / set with the piston a quarter of an inch down the bore on the power stroke, or, if you prefer after TDC - same difference! Grind lots off the stems to achieve clearance when “ on the cam” and you’re in trouble.

I'm a great fan of Owatrol but I think that Waxoyl or similar products such as Morris's Ankor wax are better for your purpose as they have a creeping / searching action. Another one that comes to mind is Dinitrol but I haven't seen it around lately. Owatrol dries with a sort of soft plasticy finish and wont chip easily and is great for horticultural machinery either mixed with paint or applied over a painted finish. I use it for lawnmower cutting cylinders and deflector plates etc. The downside of Owatrol is that it seems to delay final drying for up to 72 hours, so not for someone in a hurry!

If we get a "salty winter" keep it well washed off but not by driving through a puddle that concealed this pothole in east Croydon . Friend of mine drove into it yesterday, wrecked a wheel and tyre and possibly more. While she was calling the recovery service another driver did the same. Turns out that Thames Water had "fixed" a leak the day before, filled in the hole, taken down the barriers and B******d off . The leak reappeared over night and washed out the fill and yesterday's rain and wet roads disguised it.

A sort of male Anne Summers?

Send some down here, we’ve got a half empty (or worse) reservoir on the Kent / Sussex border. Quite serious.

Use them to make a mold to create fibre glass replicas - or is the mention of fibre glass a hanging offence?

That's what's best described as a bit of a B****r! PM sent. Meanwhile here's a pic of the back of a brand new coil. As you will see the potting material is decidedly lumpy. it's just some form of resin / epoxy poured in over the coil and condenser and allowed to find its own level.

It looks ok as far as the relationship of the components goes . Please confirm that you have tried for a spark straight off the end of the HT lead without the plug cap and that you’ve cleaned any protective coating off the contact faces of your new points, set the points to the correct gap ( 18 thou.? ) **, recleaned them after setting and that they are opening just before the piston reaches top dead centre. Unless an external voltage has been applied to the coil it is unlikely to have overheated but if you have a multimeter you can check for continuity and resistance of the low and high tension windings of the coil but unfortuately I don’t have any figures for what those readings should be. **the correct gap figure is usually cast into the outer face of the flywheel or even stamped into the removable cover that gives access to the points. This may be of assistance. https://www.dropbox.com/s/gbq4bdj2cto80gv/Suffolk A98 Magneto and carburettor0001.pdf?dl=0

The lead that you describe as going to the throttle is the “ kill / stop” wire and could be the cause of your loss of spark. Make sure that it is not earthing out . You don’t mention a condenser so you probably have a coil incorporating one. I am fairly certain that your engine is an early A98. - aluminium crankcase, 98cc - as the later ones and the 112cc and 114 cc aluminium engines that followed had electronic ignition - no points.