Wristpin

Managed to find just one image on line of the Alkotrac ride-on. The conveyor can just be seen on the far side and the frame for the collector on the back.

Interesting to read how well the hot air treatment works. I have tried to brighten up faded Flymo decks with all the usual cutting compounds and polishes but other than putting a shine on the faded plastic, no improvement. If it comes to a repaint you will need to roughen it up with 400 wet or dry and then apply a plastic specific primer as used by car bumper repairers and probably available at Halfrauds. Al-ko, beside being a major manufacturer of caravan, motorhome and trailer chassis, make some decent garden machinery. Way back in the 80s they made a grass collecting ride on where the deck exited to a rectangular tube with a conveyor belt inside it carrying the grass to a big upright bin at the rear.

If the engine is directly mounted to the chassis the ground will usually be bolted to the chassis or one of the engine mounting bolts.

This would suggest that there may be https://store.lathes.co.uk/print/ms580e

Google is your friend but here's for starters http://www.lathes.co.uk/smartbrown/

A bit late now but have just unearthed an old Dayco belt catalogue which cross references that 7473 number to their ref L582, ie an L5 section, 82" long. L5= 5/8", 16mm In belt measuring language Li =inner length, La= outer length , Lw/Ld = working length and Le = effective length and somewhere along the line some manufacturers refer to a "mean pitch length" !

Not Turning over on the key/ starter and turning over but not firing up are two different issues with different factors affecting them. Just in case you have got a live supply to the kill wire , disconnect it. If you suspect that you may have already given the coil a dose of volts , remove the engine cowl / blower housing and inspect the coil . If it has been zapped it will usually be swollen and maybe charred. Now to test and identify the non cranking condition . Locate the starter solenoid which will have a heavy cable from the battery to one top terminal and a heavy cable from the other top terminal to the starter motor. The battery side terminal may also have a smaller diameter cable; that is to supply charge - don't worry about it for now. The solenoid will also have a lighter terminal near its base ( may have two small terminals but let's just assume one or now. Pull the connector off the small terminal and take a length of cable and hold one end onto the battery positive and touch the small solenoid terminal with the other end. Hopefully the starter motor will engage. If it doesn't you have either a bad solenoid or motor. If the engine cranks with the direct feed from battery to solenoid the problem is either with your wiring, the ignition switch or a safety circuit/ switch. there are more brutal things you can try like shorting out the solenoid but stick with the more civilised tests for now. Edit. Check list.Before you start. Fully charged battery Tight battery terminals Battery negative / earth , clean and tightly bolted to the chassis. If the engine is bolted directly to the chassis - which on a Westwood it usually is- check the tightness of the mounting bolts. If the engine is on Anti- vibe mounts check that any earth strap between the block and chassis is clean and tight. Check that any fuses are present and intact.

Disconnect the kill wire from the engine throttle / governor plate and try cranking it. However if you have already sent 12volts down that wire to the coil it will be toast.

Thanks guys. The same request on another forum endorsed the recommendation for Gorilla and also suggested Everbuild Stixall. A visit to Wickes and B&Q failed to produce Stixall and only the Gorilla wood adhesive but Evo-Stick Ultimate appears to have done the job. While on the Antelope trail, does anyone have a belt guard for sale?

Suggestions please for a suitable adhesive to stick the solid tyre to the Antelope's cast wheel as the tyre has become slack and wanders off on its own! because the tyre is slightly slack I suspect that something with some gap filling properties is a better bet that a straight contact adhesive such as Evostick. Once back in place I can put a few pop rivets around the inner edge as there is sufficient clearance around the rim of the wheel.

http://www.mayphil.com/creo_files/upload/files/cords_brochure.pdf They were not set up for dealing with "private buyers" but with a little persuasion the deal was done . Knew that there was a good reason to bookmark the catalogue! Page 55!

My manual is considerably older than the one that you refer to, probably late 70s. No reference to +3 in my manual and in the attached link someone is questioning why " they stopped offering the +3"; so somewhere along the line that option came and went. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/46585-new-kohler-piston-rings-question/#comment-429666 Anyone here (old enough to ) remember Cords piston rings for worn engines? They are still available for some engines. I bought a set for a Kubota petrol lump on a Ransomes a year or so back and they provided an instant cure to smoking and oil burning without the need for a rebore. Machine sold - end of !!!!

May be worth having a word with Hugo at Rowena Motors, he is the carburettor King! The main source for Tanaka stuff in the UK is Farm and Garden Claymore but they hold most of the stock at head office in Dublin

+3 rings. - I stand corrected but have never seen them mentioned elsewhere until today! However there is a thread on the Red Square forum with a suggestion that they were a factory fit on production engines that were right at the limit of the measurement for a standard bore. All seems a little strange.

If you have a means of measuring the bore it will determine the best course of action. Without measurements it is a bit hit and miss. I think that Anglo T may have the decimal point misplaced as I read his post as being +3 thou. Iron rings usually come in +10,20 and 30. If the wear is within limits and a "service ring set" is available I would go for that as they usually include multi piece rings with expanders etc to accommodate wear. This extract from the Kohler manual may be of assistance. https://www.dropbox.com/s/2fmi9539dp0f0xq/Kohler Piston rings etc0001.pdf?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/2djv5e4hi2ppx6k/Kohler Specifications and wear tolerances0001.pdf?dl=0

Villiers Mk25?

Meetens or Mike Hitchins at http://www.guypartsandservice.co.uk/

Interesting. My made up word of "electrostacticy" was intended to refer to the gun for applying the powder and the method of applying the negative charge to the object being coated. However I find your comments about the elasticity of powder coat surprising as experience with commercial applications such as on older Westwood and Countax tractors has been the opposite, with the coating peeling off in sheets! Maybe the difference in in the care of application compared with a commercial finish? Your oven is most impressive, what sort of temperature is required to achieve your high standard of finish.

Do tell us more - also the "electrostaticy" bit and obtaining small quantities of powder paint. My local powder painter applies a primer and then the finishing coat before the primer is completely cured so that they key together during the final curing bake. Is that the way to go?

A Westwood deck of that age has nothing in common with Countax decks but bearings etc are not a problem. As has been mentioned a worn belt with thick and thin sections will set up a vibration as the difference in section effectively tensions and de-tensions it as it passes over the pulleys . Also have a look at the pulleys themselves, particularly the crankshaft pulley, as the pressed steel and spot welded ones can spread , again causing a "fast and loose" effect on belt tension and setting up a vibration. Obviously the machined cast ones are not susceptible to spreading. Beware of over tensioning the belt - as unlikely as it sounds, an overtensioned belt can result in a snapped crank. Edit. I think that this is your deck but there are a couple with minor variations. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ns33em6yp9c9r8/Westwood standard 36in RD deck0001.pdf?dl=0

They worked well and were simple to maintain. The build quality was a bit questionable in places with the parts book containing several " use as required" references when it came to shims and spacers but yours is probably built to a better standard than when it left the factory - especially the paint work! Deck rot could be a problem.

Another factor to consider is insurance. Insurance companies are getting increasingly restrictive regarding " hot works", particularly where Oxy Acetelyne is concerned and are not too happy with it in domestic situations. Induction heaters get around most of those issues.

All the good guys are falling by the wayside! Presume that you've removed the cutter belt to make life easier while sorting the engine? Have you tried both flywheel keyway positions or did it turn out to be obvious which one is correct? I'll add a Dropbox link to the L197 manual later , but it's not that informative.

For the record, the original Hayter 21 metal wheels with the three piece bearing, cone, ball race (note ball, not roller) and cup were 7" and those fitted to the Hayterette were 8". The later plastic wheels used on Hayterettes had the one piece press in "capsule" bearings but I believe the 21 and Osprey were phased out before the adoption of plastic wheels.. For anyone without access to a donor machine, Central Spares sell a reasonable quality 8" steel wheel with capsule bearings to fit a 1/2shaft, their part number 11215. However you will need to find someone with a CS account.

How long before they are linked to the steering?