Wristpin

Specs and torque settings. https://www.dropbox.com/s/y87xhox3a0mhqpb/Aspera specs and torque settings.0001.pdf?dl=0

Sounds like progress. UNC into alloy castings is normal even for the Italian manufactured ones but the pattern of the recoil unit suggests a fairly early unit , so it could be of US mfg. Images may give a clue as to exactly what you have so the more the better. Move the thread if you wish but don’t split it . Split threads about the same machine are a pain - imo!! Meanwhile, assuming it to be an H30 I’ll sort out some clearance and torque figures.

Its possible that your engine is an H30, not a BH but I will have a look at some books in the morning. Also wondering whether the blower housing / cowling that the starter mounts on is the correct one for the block - looks a bit of an uncomfortable fit. The images of the carbs are for vertical crank engines on rotary mower applications and not relevant to your problem. Edit I've not been able to match your numbers to any reference material that I have but here's a couple of scans of H30 models, one of the original Lauson version and one of the Italian made "clone". They both feature the stepped inlet manifold. https://www.dropbox.com/s/k783cnjt6i95mx2/Lauson H30%2C Aspera H300001.pdf?dl=0

There’s a thought, chance to get rid of one of the old paper ones from under the mattress!

Spot on! Never realised that there was a limit. Know that "rules is rules" but seems a bit hard as nearly all my attachments have been to help others!

In the past I've never had a problem adding images to my posts, but on the last two occasions they have been blocked by the forum software. Not doing anything different and resizing down to the smallest option. Tried both the drag and drop and "choose files" options. Any ideas? Got around the immediate problem by using Imgur but have never had an issue with using directly from my own photo library before.

Not exactly old but, it seems, as rare as hens' teeth! In 2007 Mowbots were distributed by Henton and Chattell in Nottingham but as too often seems to happen in the garden machinery world the manufacturer was not satisfied with Henton's efforts and gave the agency to a company based in Southern Ireland. Let's just say that from then on things went downhill and spares become a problem and now either non existent or eye wateringly expensive. We sold several, two of which survived until now: one with a former customer has just died (the bot, not the customer!) and one, another former customer's machine, with me which is on borrowed time with worn traction motors. These motors are still available at over £220 + vat each - not a good proposition for a 10 year old machine. So, if anyone knows the whereabouts of a "spares or repairs" L300 Mowbot , I would love to know about it. https://imgur.com/a/JNuWN

Is there there a good UK source for Onan Parts ? If not, a recommendation for a US supplier would be welcome. Thanks

I second that.My retirement contribution to village life is to mow the churchyard and the B's are wreaking havoc. (should be an image here but keep getting "upload failed" message)!

Look forward to it, I'm sure that it will be interesting. There was a firm in Bedfordshire - Minitrac - who did a lot of grey imports, mainly from France, of Kubotas and Issekis but I see that the company was dissolved in 2014.

I'll go along with that. Expensive to buy new but due to the quality of the engineering had modest running costs - unlike many cheaper machines. Is there some history with it such as why was it apparently abandoned to the elements?

Looks like the ones that were supplied with Ransomes (and probably other) mowers fitted with the old style (non click-on) nipples .

You may find what you need here https://www.dropbox.com/s/joaarxsg6kgm5ls/CS Pulley assortment0001.pdf?dl=0

Yes, Westwoods were made in the 70s . Not sure how far back for the tractor shaped ones but they were definitely around pre 80s. I had a Lawnbug early 70s or even late 60s!!!! We used to see the trans drive belt dropped off the big pulley on the top of the trans and used to fit a peg keeper down from above just to stop it falling clear of the pulley when de-clutched. Did you post this query somewhere else a while back? In answer to whoever did I posted the part numbers for two pulley mod kits for the "zig zag pulleys that did the de-clutching. I'll dig them out again and add them to this post. EDIT 3230 and 5823 Both on our stock file as "idler pulley mod kits" .Obviously meant something back in the day but may have no relevance to your question!

Thanks chaps, doing my best, had plenty of practice!

I hope that you get sorted out . I had a vague recollection of pulley issues with Westwoods of that era and modified pulleys being introduced. If pushed I'd say that they were deeper metal ones . I've had a look at our old stock file and there are two part numbers for "Pulley mod kits" part numbers 3230 and 5823 but no indication of what or why.

Managed to find just one image on line of the Alkotrac ride-on. The conveyor can just be seen on the far side and the frame for the collector on the back.

Interesting to read how well the hot air treatment works. I have tried to brighten up faded Flymo decks with all the usual cutting compounds and polishes but other than putting a shine on the faded plastic, no improvement. If it comes to a repaint you will need to roughen it up with 400 wet or dry and then apply a plastic specific primer as used by car bumper repairers and probably available at Halfrauds. Al-ko, beside being a major manufacturer of caravan, motorhome and trailer chassis, make some decent garden machinery. Way back in the 80s they made a grass collecting ride on where the deck exited to a rectangular tube with a conveyor belt inside it carrying the grass to a big upright bin at the rear.

If the engine is directly mounted to the chassis the ground will usually be bolted to the chassis or one of the engine mounting bolts.

This would suggest that there may be https://store.lathes.co.uk/print/ms580e

Google is your friend but here's for starters http://www.lathes.co.uk/smartbrown/

A bit late now but have just unearthed an old Dayco belt catalogue which cross references that 7473 number to their ref L582, ie an L5 section, 82" long. L5= 5/8", 16mm In belt measuring language Li =inner length, La= outer length , Lw/Ld = working length and Le = effective length and somewhere along the line some manufacturers refer to a "mean pitch length" !

Not Turning over on the key/ starter and turning over but not firing up are two different issues with different factors affecting them. Just in case you have got a live supply to the kill wire , disconnect it. If you suspect that you may have already given the coil a dose of volts , remove the engine cowl / blower housing and inspect the coil . If it has been zapped it will usually be swollen and maybe charred. Now to test and identify the non cranking condition . Locate the starter solenoid which will have a heavy cable from the battery to one top terminal and a heavy cable from the other top terminal to the starter motor. The battery side terminal may also have a smaller diameter cable; that is to supply charge - don't worry about it for now. The solenoid will also have a lighter terminal near its base ( may have two small terminals but let's just assume one or now. Pull the connector off the small terminal and take a length of cable and hold one end onto the battery positive and touch the small solenoid terminal with the other end. Hopefully the starter motor will engage. If it doesn't you have either a bad solenoid or motor. If the engine cranks with the direct feed from battery to solenoid the problem is either with your wiring, the ignition switch or a safety circuit/ switch. there are more brutal things you can try like shorting out the solenoid but stick with the more civilised tests for now. Edit. Check list.Before you start. Fully charged battery Tight battery terminals Battery negative / earth , clean and tightly bolted to the chassis. If the engine is bolted directly to the chassis - which on a Westwood it usually is- check the tightness of the mounting bolts. If the engine is on Anti- vibe mounts check that any earth strap between the block and chassis is clean and tight. Check that any fuses are present and intact.

Disconnect the kill wire from the engine throttle / governor plate and try cranking it. However if you have already sent 12volts down that wire to the coil it will be toast.

Thanks guys. The same request on another forum endorsed the recommendation for Gorilla and also suggested Everbuild Stixall. A visit to Wickes and B&Q failed to produce Stixall and only the Gorilla wood adhesive but Evo-Stick Ultimate appears to have done the job. While on the Antelope trail, does anyone have a belt guard for sale?