Wristpin

I also tried another "mower breaker" friend and the answer was the same. I checked on the Barrus/Lawnflite parts site and it does appear that the pulley in question was only ever used on the various versions of the rear-engined riders and not any of the front engines tractor mowers. Also, it looks like the last machine that used it was back in 1997 so they are likely to be thin on the ground. Pretty amazing that Barrus still have a new one in stock. Good luck with the repair - not a nice job as unless it's spot on the machine will vibrate badly. It may be worth looking for a more modestly priced generic single pulley and get it welded to your boss.

Getting the old boss off the crank is likely to be a fight . If you have access to oxy-acetylene, getting it up to cherry red and letting it cool may create a bit of differential expansion. We used to protect the sump with some "tin" shields and lots of soaking wet rags. You may need to temporarily weld a heavy washer to the boss so that there is something for a puller to get hold of. What machine is it? Possibly easier to try and source a new pulley.

That pulley is still available from the importers EP Barrus via a Lawnflite / MTD dealer - £95.60 + vat!!!! For a used one, try Stuart Oliver on 01233 820811

An image may help in assessing the situation! Quite a few crankshaft pulleys are constructed like two saucers back to back and spot welded together. The metal fatigues around the welds and the pulley falls apart. If the fracture / tear is such that the pieces can be put back "in register" it may just be possible to do a repair. Back in the 70s/80s we would see quite a lot of that type of failure, particularly if belts were over tensioned but then the manufacturers got wise and ran a seam of brazing down into the bottom of the V and spread the load.

Assuming that no one has fiddled with the relationship of the governor arm to the shaft that emerges from the block, speed adjustment is usually adjusted by bending the spring anchorage. As far as I can see you have not posted the model type and code to give positive id of what you have so that is just general advice. Reference to those number will enable specific information for your engine together with the top no-load speed and if applicable the governed idle speed. If your engine has governed idle, setting that is slightly more complicated that just setting the throttle stop screw to 1750rpm

Only five balls. FG Adamsons are showing one 691630 in stock. They have both a retail and trade site. Edit. Should make it clear, 5 on the early single pawl starter and 6 for the later “ sealed” starter with 5 pawls.

Before going any further with specific instructions for stripping/cleaning the carb on an 8HP Briggs it will be a good idea to pin down what 8ph Briggs you have and what carburettor - there have been a few over the years. So, Model, Type and Code numbers as stamped into the cowling, please - often just above the spark plug.

When removing the float bowl it sometimes helps to gently rotate it a couple of degrees to break the seal between it and the O ring gasket. Then gently tip the bowl left and right in the hope that the O ring remains with the carb body. The objective is to try and avoid stretching the O ring as once stretched they can be a B**** to get back unless left to shrink for a couple of days or more.

You need to bear in mind that a filter sold for car use is designed to be used for a pumped fuel system and not a gravity fed one as used on many mower engine installation. An example of this is that Briggs and Stratton market three grades of filter, each with a different micron rating, one for gravity fed systems ,usually red, and another for single cylinder pumped systems, usually white and a clear one usually found on twin cylinder set ups. For the filter to fill up under gravity it is necessary for the air in the system to find its way out. If it can’t , such as when the carb float valve is closed, the filter will just sit there empty. Any one who has worked on many Vanguard and Intek installations will recognise the strange phenomenon of a happily running engine yet with a filer that appears to be empty.

What you describe is typical of hunting caused by fuel starvation, usually by an internal blockage in the carburettor. This is often caused by the ingress of dirt or these days a fuel quality issue leading to obstruction by gumming. The solution is a careful strip and clean of the carburettor using an aerosol can of carb cleaner to blow through all jets and orifices, or, if you know anyone with an ultrasonic cleaning tank, a good hot wash in that.

The only reason that resistor plugs are specified in some markets is to comply with that market's electrical interference legislation, not anything to do with the performance of the engine. (Quoting a well-known engine manufacturer) The thing to avoid is using a resistor plug where there is already a resistor plug cap - then there can, but not always, be erratic performance. Said engine manufacturer normally supplies HT leads with a plain non-resistor (unsuppressed) plug connector; hence them specifying a resistor plug for certain markets.

Point understood but it was meant as a light-hearted comment. In retirement, I mow the village churchyard and a couple of weeks of "prettiness" is followed by four months of scruffiness!

Horticultural vandal! They ain't dead, just building up energy for next spring!!

https://www.schaeffler.com/remotemedien/media/_shared_media/08_media_library/01_publications/schaeffler_2/catalogue_1/downloads_6/sp1_de_en.pdf

Never heard of them but Google has dozens of images relating to Power King EconomyTractors, so it looks as though there are a good few around.

At the risk of stating the bloomin obvious getting the pulleys in the wrong orientation will effect the blade tip speed - a safely consideration. Lets just say that the larger pulley is the same diameter as the crank drive pulley , we then have a deck input speed of engine rpm , say 2800 to 3000rpm . Reverseing the deck pulley putting the smaller one on top and the input speed goes up plus the larger pulley is now driving the blade spindles at an even higher rpm - excessive blade tip speed ?? In addition the idler pulley bearings and blade spindle bearings may all be subjected to higher rpm than intended.

Bartrams in Ipswich may be a good place to start. Long time Ransomes Dealer and just down the road from Ransomes themselves.

With most saws the eaiest way of locking the engine (bar having the correct dummy spark plug with a nylon buffer) is to remove the plug and poke two or the inches of heavy duty starter cord down into the cylinder and then rotate the engine in the appropriate direction to compress the cord and lock the crank. No danger of slipping and consequent damage, or have I missed something unique to this situation?

The Dellorto carb shouldn't be too much of an issue. The attached may help with linkages etc. https://www.dropbox.com/s/e0fwa1pd83mcn31/Aspera horizontal crank governors0001.pdf?dl=0

That recoil is similar to the ones used on some iron block Tecumsehs and I believe was bought in from Fairbanks Morse. A few years ago I needed a recoil spring for a 10 hip Tecumseh and bought it from the States; only to find that it was off the shelf in the UK as a Kohler part.

Toro now owns Hayter so are "rationalising" the parts bin.

Interesting that you dealt with Rupert Ledger. They went into voluntary liquidation in 1976 . They were better known as manufacturers of ignition testing equipment and I have one of their portable test units. I also have a very useful gadget, the Dy-tone, that they made for ascertaining the condition and the opening / closing point of contact breaker points in flywheel magnetos without the need to dismantle - one wire to the HT lead and one to earth giving an audible signal that changes when the points open or close. A sharp change of note equals clean points and a slurred one, dirty points. Invaluable for setting the timing on early Villiers etc as being audible , hands and eyes are free to align timing marks etc. The company morphed into Ledger Selby and Co. Ltd and also traded as Uni-Pak Maintenance Systems. No mention of drills in any of the literature that I have.

The original coil armature on your engine would be a 298316 , to which you can fit a 394970 Magnetron module to eliminate the points and condenser but it may be less hassle to find a newer 397358 coil, that already incorporates a Magnetron trigger module, from a scrap engine. When shopping for a new / used coil take yours and make sure that the spacing of the fixing holes exactly matches as there are some minor but important differences in the spacing on otherwise similar-looking coils. Any coil from a 13 series engine should fit.

Forgive me for gatecrashing this thread but here are a couple of images of the bench drill that my father bought for me in the early 1950s. It has MRL and the numeral 5 cast into the flywheel and MRL into the underside of the base but I can find no information about the manufacturer.

Taking the trenching suggestion a step further , could it have been for tree planting on rough hilly terrain ? The Forestry Commision used much larger versions when establishing acres of coniferous woodland.