Wristpin

While on the subject of insurance this may be of interest. http://chrisbiddle.newsweaver.co.uk/nelsonpublishingnewsletter/19ip1hzufu9?a=2&p=48472522&t=17711374

Way back I used to do all my own wet film processing and still got my old Pentax S1a that's now considered " vintage". Now strictly a digital point and presser!Any way here's all that's needed for remote triggering .

Right, going to try posting in original format rather than reduced for email/forum posing - may take some time at my rural upload speed!!! 2min 12 sec per image!!

Not sure how these images will travel but they're the best I can do with the point and press! Yours is illustration G

The single black lead with the blue connector is the kill wire, on no account let 12v near it!!!!! As has been said, the red to the double plug is the DC charge lead - you can see the rectifying diode, the lump in the wire just sbove the plug. The black lead to the two pin plug is an AC supply , usually used for lights.

Would possibly question the use of a "copper grease" . The old maxim was "use grease for stuff that moves and copper for stuff that doesn't (shouldn't!)" still holds good. Copperslip and its equivalents are not a grease but an anti seize compound and perhaps a high melting point moly or graphite grease would be more appropriate in that application.

In the early 80s I used to look after one badged Howard Bolens that was in a light grey - as far as I know, it was original paint , and was quite old even then.

Always been a bit suspicious of Wolf brand products but recently read some good reviews of their Dakota 90 and 150 litre units . May be worth a look.

Too much fuel will tend to make the engine "sound heavy" but your problem is possibly caused by weak mixture. Try closing the choke just a fraction an see if it improves things.

Seem to have acquired another Ransomes Marquis for £10.50 today! Good grass box but no engine however I do have one or two suitable suitable ones at the ready! Anyone got Amal 379 carb complete with oil bath air cleaner that they would like to cash in ?

A bit more up market!

From memory a Bug's chassis numbers was on a tin foil sticker so possibly not much chance of it having survived. The engine is a Tecumseh, possibly a V70. Tecumseh engines of that era had their engine details either stamped into a small metal tag often secured by one of the screws retaining the valve chest cover, or stamped into the blower housing. Tecumseh used two sets of numbers , the first giving the spec of the engine , such as the crank orientation, horse power and application and the second showing the build year and the day of build ( the day being shown as a numer between 1 and 364.

http://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2015-atm-bombers/

In another life we used to get clutches and brakes re-lined by a company called Express Auto Services. Not sure whether they were a national company or just local to where we were in SE London but possibly long gone now. I know that there are companies serving the classic bike fraternity who reline cork clutches so possibly they will also do more modern friction materials as well.

Thanks for the advice. Job for next week!

On that auction site 141552613031

What is the correct way to apply self adhesive vinyl decals to a painted surface such as a mower chain case cover. Painted a couple of months ago so it should be fully cured. Just apply them dry or with soapy water and a squeegee - or is that a different type of decal?

My "barn find" Lambretta had been dry stored foe 12/15 years before I acquired it and the inside of the fuel tank while not gummed or heavily rusted does shed fine rust particles that manage to pass through the outlet filter, an in-line one and the carb's gauze and then cause the carb to flood! Pulled the tank out this afternoon and would like to hear from anyone who has actually used a sealant such as Por from Frost with any advice on the does and don'ts and any on what product to buy or avoid.

Not just the modern ones! Remember the original 850cc Mini with 20/50 for everything!

Just to clarify, the Briggs product should be mixed with "pump fresh" and not added to existing fuel. I add it to my cans before going to the garage to fill up. You are fortunate in having a quality customer base where you can get the rate for the job . Many of my former contractor customers seemed to struggle to get a decent rate but perhaps that's what they wanted me to think!

With modern grinders it doesn't seem to matter whether one buys expensive or cheap it's luck of the draw how long they last but I've got a Wolf Grinderette that is over 40 years old and still going strong. However in fairness to all the Bosch, Hitachi etc etc that have bitten the dust at work the Wolf has never left my home workshop.

I dose all the fuel that I buy for my garden machinery with Briggs Fuel Fresh (aka Fuel Fit) and that looks after the gumming and starting issues. When I had the business all our workshop fuel was dosed with it. In the autumn we would start to "double dose" as a precaution against winter serviced machines "going bad on us" . However I know of one brave buininess that made the decision to use only Aspen in all two stroke machines going through their workshop and returned all machines with a full tank but this gave rise to some machines then not running properly when refueled with customers' own mix and being returned under complaint! That said, if I were using hand held two or four stroke machinery "for a living" I would give serious consideration to using an Alkylate fuel on health grounds. The problem for someone in that situation is recovering the cost from the customer in a cost conscious competitive market place. Possibly the conditions surrounding its use will be similar to when car seat belts were made available; first as an accessory, then as an option on new vehicles, then standard on all vehicles and finally legislation stepped in.

Wow , two bob a gallon, won't enquire your date of birth! However when I started driving it was four shillings and eleven pence ie four gallons for a pound but my Dad used to talk about when it was one shilling (bob) and three pence a gallon. As you suggest, Cords rings were known as engine savers for the worn out engines in the forties and fifties but they now seem to have evolved into original equipment suppliers for the likes of Perkins.

You may find what you need in this catalogue. There's a compressor section near the end. http://www.mayphil.com/creo_files/upload/files/cords_brochure.pdf

Assuming that the hobby budget won't run to an axial screw compressor I would look for one with a belt driven iron block reciprocating pump rather than a direct drive and/or alloy block. As far as output goes there is more to it than the displacement volume of the pump. The critical parameter is Free Air Delivery. So work backwards from the FAD requirement of the most air hungry tool that you are likely to use. Blasting cabinets and die grinders being examples of kit that need a lot of air. The Sealey and Machinemart/Clarke kit "is what it is" and probably perfectly adequate for a bit of use with a blow gun or paint spray. Over the years I've had a number of units from Air Industrial Equipment of Harlow, both for our own workshop and for customers and they are a fair spec for the money with a good backup service. Other makes available!!